If you’ve never visited Monhegan, it’s a Maine treasure that’s laced with hiking trails and peppered with artists’ studios. It’s a fabulous day trip, it’s even better if you stay overnight.

Jaime, son of Andrew and grandson of N.C., first visited Monhegan in the late 1950s, and early in his career purchased several pen-and-ink drawings Kent had used as sources for illustration Moby Dick. Wyeth later purchased Kent’s last home and studio on the island as well as several early 20th-century paintings by Kent.

In conjunction with the exhibit, the Farnsworth is presenting a series of lectures and talks:

• Friday, July 6, at 1 p.m., Gallery Talk with Farnsworth Chief Curator Michael K. Komanecky;

• Thursday, July 12, at 6 p.m., Wyeth Day Lecturewith N.C. Wyeth biographer David Michaelis;

• Wednesday, July 25, at 5:30 p.m., Realism and Resonance: George Bellows Paints the Urban Landscape and the Sea,with independent scholar Marianne Doezema;

• Friday, August 3, at 1 p.m., Gallery Talkwith Farnsworth Chief Curator Michael K. Komanecky;

• Tuesday, August 14, at 5:30 p.m., A Conversation with Jamie Wyeth and Chief Curator Michael K. Komanecky;

• Wednesday, September 5, at 5:30 p.m., Rockwell Kent’s Illustrations for Moby Dick, with Elizabeth Spear, Fellow in Curatorial Practice, Colby College Museum of Art.

Admission to the Farnsworth’s Rockland campus, which includes the museum, the Wyeth Center, and the Farnsworth Homestead, is $12; kids younger than 16 are free. From June 1 through Oct. 31, admission is free from 5-8 p.m. on Wednesdays and on the first Friday of the month (coinciding with Rockland’s monthly Art Walk—a don’t miss event).

Lodging at this time of year tends to be at off-season rates.

His wry humor addresses everything from cabin fever to gigunda mosquitos, seagull tactics to moose therapy. Anyone who’s spent a winter in the state will nod in agreement with his jabs at cabin fever, snowfall, and potholes. He has a special talent for anthropomorphizing lobster, moose, and gulls.

If you want to introduce someone to Maine humor, this book would make an excellent gift. If you’re looking for a easily packable souvenir, you’ve found it.

What to do in Hallowell, Maine

Shop! Water Street is lined with galleries, independent boutiques, specialty shops, and nearly a dozen antiques shops. Among the possibilities: Kennebec River Artisans, which shows and sells the wares of more than three dozen craftspeople; Harlow Gallery, headquarters for the Kennebec Valley Art Association; Brass and Friends Antiques, a bonanza for vintage lighting; and the Hallowell Antique Mall, representing 80 dealers.

Don’t miss Brahms Mount Textiles, an honest-to-goodness factory outlet, delivering significant savings on the luxurious linen and cotton blankets and throws woven on the premises using antique shuttle looms.

Explore downtown Hallowell’s architecture and history with “A Walking Tour of Hallowell, Maine” or via the 19-sign Museum in the Streets tour.

Walk or snowshoe trails lacing two preserves protected by the Kennebec River Land Trust, Vaughan Woods (intersection of Middle St. and Litchfield Rd.) and Jamies Pond Conservation Area (Jamies Pond Rd.) or mosey along the 6.5-mile Kennebec River Rail Trail from Augusta’s Waterfront Park through Hallowell to Gardiner. The nearby Maine State Museum (State House Complex, Augusta,$2 adult, $6 family) covers everything Maine in permanent and temporary exhibits.

Best bets for live music are The Wharf Tavern, Hoxter’s Sports Bar & Bistro , or Easy Street Lounge. Other possibilities are Slates or The Liberal Pint.

Where to stay in Hallowell, Maine

On a back road, 130-acre Maple Hill Farm Bed and Breakfast Inn and Conference Center is an ultra-green rural respite on a working farm adjacent to an 800-acre wildlife preserve. Two intown bed-and-breakfasts are within strolling distance of Water Street’s shops and restaurants. The Benjamin Wales House Bed And Breakfast,an 1820 Federal listed on the National Register of Historic Places, has four Maine-inspired, antiques-furnished guest rooms and a regulation pool table in the parlor. The colonial-style Second Street Bed & Breakfast has five guest rooms. Ten minutes from downtown Hallowell, the Senator Inn and Spa is a full-service hotel with restaurant, spa, and indoor pool; some rooms are pet friendly.

Where to eat in Hallowell, Maine

Despite being around for more than 25 years, Slate’s Restaurant and Bakery ($14-26) is never tiresome and always creative. It serves lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, with an emphasis on fresh and local and house-made breads, pastas, and desserts; hit the separate bakery for light fare. Cafe de Bangkok ($11-23) deserves its rep as one of Maine’s best Thai restaurants. Hungry? Head for Lucky Garden, where the all-you-can-eat buffet is $7.95 for lunch daily and $10.95 for Friday or Saturday dinner. It’s the 20-ounce pint glass, not politics, that helped christen The Liberal Cup ($6-14), a brewpub serving house-made beers and excellent pub-style fare that goes beyond the usual. Fish chowders, lobster stew, and seafood are the specialties at Hattie’s Chowder House ($7-24), but the menu has a bit of everything. Hot dogs, fries, and homemade doughnuts have been drawing fans for more than five decades to Bolley’s Famous Franks (from $2), but it also serves other comfort foods; cash only.

Frankie and Johnny’s Natural Foods, Cape Neddick

“Food that loves you back” is the slogan for Frankie and Johnny’s Natural Foods. Inside the shingled restaurant, wood floors and pine-colored walls provide the background for the Culinary Institute of America-trained chef John Shaw’s vibrant, internationally seasoned fare. Vegetarian and vegan choices are always on the menu, along with fish, seafood, and chicken options, and many dishes can be modified for the gluten-sensitive. Portions are generous, breads and pastas are made in house, and everything is cooked to order, so plan on a leisurely meal. All entrees come with a soup or salad. Bring your own booze, but leave the your credit cards behind since “plastic is not natural.” ($23-36)

Little Lad’s, Portland

It’s the addictive herbal popcorn that first wins over many customers to Little Lad’s, a no-frills vegan cafe, but it’s the affordable lunch buffet at the dineresque spot that keeps them returning. The buffet spread includes soups, salads, entrees, veggies, grains, dessert, and sandwiches, with rotating options such as lasagna, whole-wheat pastas, shepherd’s pie, “chick-in cacciatore,” “linguini and meet sauce,” [sic] and bean stroganoff. Fill your plate and bowl once for $4.99, and if by some chance you’re are still hungry, return to the buffet for $1.

Green Elephant Vegetarian Bistro, Portland

The Asian-inspired fare at Green Elephant Vegetarian Bistro has persuaded many carnivores that going veggie doesn’t not mean sacrificing flavor. Every menu item, including wine, is labeled as vegan, gluten free, wheat free, and/or organic. Regulars know to begin with the roti canai, an Indian flatbread paired with a curry dip. After that, favorites include char guayteow, Siamese dream curry noodle, citrus spare ribs, and tofu tikka masala. One taste, and you’ll see the light. This place is extremely popular, and it doesn’t does not take reservations.($10-16)

Silly’s, Portland

Silly’s is a treasure, a family friendly restaurant with a menu that pleases everyone. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free choices are plentiful, and Silly’s even has dedicated gluten-free and vegan fryers. Since almost everything is made in house from scratch, so the restaurant can accommodate specific allergies, sensitivities, and diets. Silly’s sources much of its fare from Maine farms and businesses and it aggressively recycles, so you can feel good about dining here. And wait until you see the menu of milk shakes (regular, soy, or rice): The ingredients are outrageous—how about a peanut butter and grape jelly shake or a Guinness Stout or maybe The Travesty, made with chai, banana, and cinnamon? And the decor? Retro refined, with Formica tables and red vinyl and metal chairs, tin ceiling, and walls lined with photos of customers displaying Silly’s bumper stickers in far-flung locations.($7-15)

Pepperclub, Portland

The Pepperclub is a long-timer, when it comes to Portland restaurants, and it was one of, if not the first, to serve vegan and vegetarian fare. The internationally flavored menu changes frequently and might include entrees such as North African stuffed peppers or Caribbean shrimp cakes, but there always are vegetarian and vegan specials, as well as local and organic meats and seafood. ($12-18)

Corsican Restaurant, Freeport

Since opening on a side street a block away from L.L. Bean’s mothership in back in 1986, the unfussy Corsican Restaurant  has wooed vegetarians and families with hearty salads and pizzas, vegetable stroganoff, pesto pasta, and easy-on-the-budget favorites such as the lentil burger and Pedro’s burrito with avocado. If you’re craving a taste of Maine, start with a chowder and end with the blueberry crumb pie. Kids’ veggie Children’s vegetarian choices include PB&J, a veggie and cheese sandwich, and a veggie cracker plate. ($9-18)

She Doesn’t Like Guthries, Lewiston

Eco-conscious, budget-bound urban bohemians: She Doesn’t Like Guthries is your happy place. Heather and Randy Letourneau’s Maine-certified green restaurant pairs healthful fare, including veggie, vegan, and wheat-free choices, with local art and eclectic music. Feast on wheat-free fiesta bowls, wheat-free tacos, veggie and vegan burritos, BBQ smoked tofu quesadillas, hearty soups, serious salads, and veggie-rich paninis. Now add frequent live jazz or bluegrass. ($6-10)

Salt Bay Cafe, Damariscotta

No matter when hunger strikes or what your dietary preference, the has you covered. This comfy, casual intown spot has been a local favorite for more than a quarter century, yet its menu never gets tiresome — perhaps because it’s so broad. In addition to the main menu, there are separate menus for vegetarians/vegans and kids, each with dishes for all appetites. Craving a lighter meal? Opt for a sandwich or salad. Famished? Try the Greek pasta, the char-grilled vegetable plate, or the Caribbean bean cakes. All entrees come with a soup or salad. Salt Bay serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, except Easter and Christmas. ($8-24)

Chase’s Daily, Belfast

Even the culinary poobahs at the James Beard Foundation have discovered Chase’s Daily  which has twice been nominated for Best Chef Northeast. The daily changing menu is built upon seasonal fresh vegetarian fare, with much of it sourced from the Chase family’s farm in nearby Freedom. It’s a restaurant, but it’s also an art gallery, bakery, and farmers’ market. (Enjoy ed those salad greens or peas? You might be able to take some home.). Breakfast and lunch are served daily except Monday; alas, dinner is served only on Friday nights. ($15-22).

Riverside Cafe, Ellsworth

Despite changes in ownership and location, the no-longer-riverside Riverside Cafe  remains an extremely popular downtown restaurant among both locals and those passing through en route to Mount Desert Island or farther Down East. Breakfast is served until 2 p.m., and the vegetarian sections of the breakfast and lunch menus include choices such as veggie bBenedict, vegan French toast, veggie burger, and homemade quiche. Pair it with a fresh fruit smoothie, and you’re good to go. Dinner is served on Friday and Saturday evenings, and veggie choices might include eggplant parmesan and pastas. ($7-11)

Eden Vegetarian Cafe, Bar Harbor

Eden Vegetarian Cafe,could turn even the most committed cowboy into a veggie-eating happy hipster. This seasonal restaurant has been earning raves since Mark and Lynn Rampacek opened it on West Street in 2003. The menu, which changes daily, gives a vibrant, internationally flavored twist to seasonal ingredients, most of which are organic and whenever possible sourced on Mount Desert Island. The Eden bento box is a menu stalwart, but other appetizers and entrees might include a Persian tomato tartlet, split pea soup with house-made smoked seitan sausage, French country tempeh, coconut crimson lentil dahl, or spicy jungle noodles. Don’t miss the iced hibiscus tea or the organic bog jooce, made with cranberry juice sweetened with maple syrup. ( $16-21) See my review.

Taste of Eden Vegan Cafe, Norway

Michael and Sonya Tardiff, owners of Taste of Eden Vegan Cafe believe a plant-based diet can get rid of many illnesses, and their pleasant cafe doubles as a source for vegan groceries and information. Daily specials, including chickpea Alfredo, vegetable potpie, and harvest nut roast, augment the homemade soups, salads, and sandwiches. Gluten-free and other dietary restrictions usually can be accommodated. ($4-8)

Painting by Sarah Sockbeson, member of Maine's Penobscot nation; courtesy of the Abbe Museum, Bar Harbor, Maine, which benefits from proceeds from the 2012 Spring Garden Tour at WatersEdge.

Here’s a spring treat for garden lovers. In past years WatersEdge, the waterfront W. P. Stewart estate in Northeast Harbor, Maine, has opened its gates to the public in on two weekends to showcase more than 45,000 flowering spring bulbs. Not this year. The 2012 Spring Garden Tour will focus on the estate’s spectacular perennials; with gates open June 2 and 9, from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Visitors will be able to wander  designated paths on eight acres edging Somes Sound. Among the highlights: lilacs, vibernum, dogwoods, 95 varieties of azalea, 125 rhododendrons, tree peonies, magnolia, peonies, poppies, iris, English daisies, violets as well as a variety of tulips, daffodils and narcissus. Also open is the Sundial Garden, a sunken alpine garden harboring an unusual collection of plants.

It’s a rare opportunity to visit one of Mount Desert Island’s estates. The $15 suggested donation will benefit the Abbe Museum.

Getting He-ah from They-ah:

Getting to Bar Harbor from Boston and points beyond is getting easier. The independent regional airline Cape Air (which works with JetBlue) began nonstop flights between BHB (Hancock County-Bar Harbor Airport) and BOS (Boston’s Logan) on April 15. Its offering three, daily, round-trip flights through May 24. From May 25–Sept. 4, it will offer one or two daily round trips. But, and here’s an interesting tidbit, Alaska-based PenAir will be picking up the slack, offering BOS-BHB round-trips during the summer season. 

Wine, wine, and more wine:

Anneke Jans, in Kittery, is hosting a five-course dinner with wine pairings on Monday, April 30, at 6 p.m. ($65 per person, plus gratuity and tax).

Here’s the menu:

First course: Wild Mushroom Pate on a Toasted Crostini with Grain Mustard and Pickled Onion paired with Big Fire Pinot Noir, Oregon

Second course: Oven Roasted Quail Stuffed with Sausage and Currants, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Pickled Ramps and a Port Plum Sauce paired with Agricultura Red, Portugal

Third course: Blackened Sea Scallops with Celery Root Puree, Morel Mushrooms, Spring Peas and a Blood Orange-Ginger Reduction paired with Gerard Metz Gewurtzraminer, France;

Fourth course: 4oz. Filet Medallions with Mashed Potatoes, Creamed Spinach and a Porcini Pepper Sauce paired with Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington

Fifth course: Profiteroles filled with Cream, Chocolate Glaze Pistachio and Creeme Anglaise paired with Nectar Pedro Ximenez Dulce Sherry, Spain.

Cheese!

Yes, another reason to visit downtown Belfast: Eat More Cheese, a specialty food store specializing in…. artisanal cheeses from around Maine and the world, as well as chocolate, charcuterie, dried fruit and nuts, and related goods, has opened its doors. Already it’s teasing shoppers with a drool-worthy selection including marinated feta, La Tur, Gorgonzola cremificato, ewephoria, San Simon, and burrata.

Oh Happy Day (err, Happy Hour +):

If you’re in the neighborhood, Old Vines Wine Bar, in Kennebunk’s Lower Village, is offering a Happy Hour and a Half, weedays, from 5-6:30 p.m. Both martinis and select wines by the glass are $5.

Back Bay  Bistro:

Beginning April 24, Back Bay Grill, in Portland, will be offering a two-course bistro menu on Tuesdays, Wednesday, and Thursdays, in addition to the regular menu. Cost is $30, plus $10 for wine pairings. It’ll only be available for a limited time, so make plans now.

Olay!:

Celebrate Cinco de Mayo at a family friendly Mexican street party,  with live music, vendors, food, and festivities, at La Vida Mexican/Caribbean restaurant, in downtown Belfast, on May 5.

Music, mon:

And you thought Reggae Festival was the be-all and end-all of Caribbean-themed spring events in Maine’s western mountains. Nope, on Sunday, May 6, the 22nd annual New England Steelband Festival returns to Sugarloaf, in Carrabassett Valley.

Festivities begin with a spaghetti supper served 5-6 p.m. at the Anti-Gravity Center ($6), followed by dancing to the music of the Atlantic Clarion Steel Band at the Sugarloaf Inn at 7 p.m. ($6). Proceeds from both support the local MSAD 58 school district’s steel drum program.

The big event is Sunday, May 6, with steel bands from throughout New England, including the host Western Mountain Trash Can Band , play outdoors in from of the Sugarloaf Inn (or, in the case of rain, in the Anti-Gravity Center). Dress appropriate for the weather and bring lawn chairs or blankets.

Shorter Allagash Adventures

By Matthew LaRoche

There are several opportunities for shorter Allagash adventures without canoeing the entire 92-mile-long waterway.

Allagash Lake to Chamberlain Bridge

One of my personal favorites is the Allagash Lake to Chamberlain Bridge trip. This route takes you through the wildest section of the waterway. One of the nice things about this trip is that if you are accessing the AWW from the south or east, you will be driving right past your takeout location on your way to Allagash Lake. The closest vehicle access point to Allagash Lake is actually at Johnson Pond (page 55 of Delorme’s Maine Atlas and Gazetteer).

Little Allagash Falls on Maine's Allagash Wilderness Waterway is one of the most beautiful and remote locations on the waterway. It can be part of a short AWW adventure. Matthew LaRoche photo

If you do decide to make the Allagash Lake to Chamberlain Bridge trip, there are a few “must- see” places you should checkout along the way. The ice caves at the northwest corner of Allagash Lake by the inlet are an extraordinary geological feature. A climb up the fire tower on Allagash Mountain will afford you fantastic views of the Maine Woods from the Canadian border to Mt. Katahdin. Little Allagash Falls is one of the most beautiful and remote locations on the waterway. If you can arrange your itinerary to stay here overnight, you won’t be disappointed.

At normal water levels, it is a lively 6-mile trip down Allagash Stream to Chamberlain Lake. You should call for current water conditions in Allagash Stream. The stream can be a raging torrent at high water or a drag at low water.

Once you enter Chamberlain Lake, you should take a short detour to the northeast corner of the lake and visit the Tramway Historic District, which includes the tramway and trains.

On your way down Chamberlain Lake, you have the option of staying overnight at Nugent’s Camps, about 10 miles down the lake on the east shore.

Another 5 miles down the lake will bring you to Chamberlain Bridge, where you left a vehicle on the way to Allagash Lake.

You should plan on spending four nights on the waterway to make this trip and visit the sites that I have mentioned. Don’t forget to give yourself plenty of travel time to reach Johnson Pond. Wrong turns are common for first-time visitors, and the logging roads are notorious for flat tires!

Umsaskis to Allagash Village trip

Another three- or four-night trip that is slightly easier and no less spectacular is the Umsaskis to Allagash Village trip. This route starts where the American Realty Road crosses the waterway between Umsaskis and Long lakes. There is a nice vehicle access canoe launch and parking lot at this location. You can just launch your canoe and start paddling north. The campsites and scenery are beautiful along this section of the waterway

At the outlet of Harvey Pond, you will come to the remnants of Long Lake Dam. This was once 700 feet long and held back a 15-foot head of water. It is now a very nice campsite. The fishing can be excellent below the old dam in the spring and fall when the water is cool.

It is 10 miles of moderately flowing river to Round Pond — a pretty spot on the trip where the river takes a break before heading toward the St. John River.

Below Round Pond is a 2-mile-long stretch of Class 1 rapids know as Round Pond Rips. These rapids are easy for an intermediate canoeist, but they will provide some fun for those who like fast-moving water.

About 13 miles below Round Pond, you will see a campsite on river right called Cunliffe Depot. If you stop here and follow the trail upriver from the campsite, you will discover the remains of two Lombard log haulers.

Another couple miles down river will bring you to the Michaud Farm ranger station. You can end your trip here, but you will miss seeing Allagash Falls, or you can take another night and continue the 17 miles to the town of Allagash. Either way, please stop at the ranger station and sign your group out on the clip board hanging in on the porch.

The Umsaskis to Michaud Farm trip should take three nights. If you want to continue all the way to Allagash Village, you should plan on a four-night trip.

Allagash intro for first-timers

These are just two of the many shorter trips you can take on the AWW. I often suggest that first-time visitors or novice canoeists just drive to Churchill Dam and paddle up on Churchill Lake for a few nights of camping. This gives these first-time visitors a feel for the waterway and the logging roads used to access the area.

If you do decide to canoe the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, I can assure you that you will not be disappointed with the opportunity to reconnect with the natural world.

Deal alert: Cast a line for wild Maine brook trout, lake trout, and landlocked salmon in the wilderness streams and ponds, and reel in early season savings. Sundays through Thursdays, from May 20-June 22, 2012, guests at the Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins or Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins can save 20 percent of regular rates on a three-night, all-inclusive stay. The package includes lodging in private cabin, three meals daily, and fly fishing at any of more than two dozen trout ponds as well as the West Branch of the Pleasant River. Also included is a locally-tied fly sampler designed to match the hatch. Canoes for guests are available free on various ponds within the AMC’s land holdings. Mention FISH12 when making reservations.

New this season: Four new deluxe cabins at Gorman Chairback, each with private bath, separate bedrooms with queen and bunk beds, and a sitting area. One is a barrier-free ADA-accessible cabin, with electric lighting and propane heat.

Fly-fishing programs: Each of these fly-fishing instructional programs is led by a Registered Maine Guide.

• Beginner Fly Fishing Workshop at Little Lyford, June 1-3

• Advanced Fly Fishing Workshop at Little Lyford, June 8-10

• Guided Remote Pond Fly Fishing Excursion at Gorman Chairback, June 15-17

• Beginner Fly Fishing Workshop at Little Lyford, September 14-16

Note: Mediwisla, the third of the AMC’s Maine Wilderness Lodges, is closed this season for renovations.

For $250 per person or $450 per couple, you receive the dinner, wines, hut lodging (don’t forget a sleeping bag or at least sheets and pillow case; pillow and blanket are provided and huts are heated), and a hearty breakfast the next morning. The evening’s meal includes hors d’oeuvres, appetizer, main course, and dessert. All will be prepared by Gagne, who presided over the Robinhood Free Meetinghouse in Georgetown and is the creator of the to-die-for cream cheese biscuits now sold by his Gagne Foods specialty food company.

The roughly five-mile hike into the hut is worth the effort; don’t miss the side trail to the nearby waterfalls.