Where to stay and eat in Quebec City

Hilary Nangle
-
1
Where to stay and eat in Quebec City

If you already know What to see and do in Quebec City, you’re ready for where to stay and eat. (Note: This originally was part of what to see and do, but because of its length, it took too long to load, so I broke it into a seperate post).

Where to stay in Quebec City

Fairmont Chateau Frontenac

The Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City
The Chateau Frontenac dominates Quebec City’s skyline. ©Hilary Nangle

You can often find good packages at the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac. The Chateau recently completed a $70 million renovation that included all rooms. Although some retain historical decor, others are more contemporary in style; some are tiny, others palatial; some have to-die-for views over the river and old city.

I didn’t stay on the Gold floor, but you might find it worth the premium rate. That includes breakfast and evening hors d’oeuvres in an exclusive lounge with great views and a dedicated check-in and concierge service.

Parking is pricey. The public lot below on Dalhousie Street is far less expensive. Ditto for the garage off Cote du Palais. Still, it’s the Frontenac, and it’s humongous!

Check out the exhibits featuring artifacts from the adjacent Parks Canada site on the lowest level.

Look for the hotel’s canine ambassador lounging near the bell desk. $$$$

Le  Monastere des Augustines

Where to stay in Quebec City: Le Monastere des Augustine hotel is sited within the city walls in the upper section of Old Quebec.
Le Monastaire des Augustine hotel, Quebec City: Upper right is an authentic room; lower right is a contemporary room. All photos courtesy of Le Monastere des Augustine

I loved Le Monastere des Augustines, an especially green, nonprofit wellness hotel. The hotel is situated in the former Augustine sisters monastery within the city walls and just off St. Jean Street. First, a little history: In 1639, three Augustine sisters arrived here to open a hospital, now sited in the attached building. Over the centuries, they kept detailed written accounts, leaving an impressive legacy shared through 40,000 artifacts in the onsite museum (the hotel is also connected to a church).

Hotel guests are encouraged to unplug and disconnect. Leave your phone at the front desk, or if you must have access, tuck it into its own cozy, hand-knitted pocket at night. Choose from authentic (bare bones, shared baths, but comfy with handmade quilts topping the beds) or contemporary rooms with Hudson Bay blankets and en suite baths. All rooms have a clean, simple decor and nice bedding; none have a TV, radio, or phone.

Spa, holistic health services, yoga, and other classes are available, and specialty retreats are offered. The onsite restaurant serves northern-inspired fare emphasizing fresh organic and local ingredients for breakfast (breakfast is silent), lunch, and dinner. The multi-choice buffet is augmented with a menu with choices for all diets. So if you don’t like what’s in the buffet, you can order something more appealing (the bouillabaisse is fabulous). In addition, other fresh fare and snacks are available in the boutique. Quietude is expected, so this property is not a good choice for anyone traveling with young children. $$-$$$

Manoir Victoria

I stayed at Manoir Victoria a few years ago and liked it. It has a primo location just off Rue St. Jean in the upper section of the Old City, and B&B rates include a nice hot-and-cold buffet breakfast. It’s an excellent choice for families. The rooms are quite large; there’s an indoor pool and a small spa. Parking is available in the adjacent garage. $$$

Auberge St.-Antoine

Boutique hotels can be found thoughout Quebec City.
The Auberge St.-Antoine, a Relais & Chateaux property, blends contemporary decor with historic artifacts. ©Hilary Nangle

Wow, just wow! I first stayed at the Auberge St. Antoine when researching an arts story and fell in love with it. This chic and sophisticated yet cozy boutique hotel shares 400 years of history through displays of artifacts throughout the property. Definitely a splurge—this is a Relais & Chateau property—but rates drop in the off-season, and occasionally you’ll find great deals on the discount sites. $$$$

Hotel Terrace Dufferin

Where to stay in Quebec City: Hotel Terrace Dufferin offers budget-friendly rates in Quebec City.
Located within steps of the Frontenac, Hotel Terrace Dufferin overlooks the boardwalk and St. Lawrence. ©Hilary Nangle photo

I popped into the Hotel Terrace Dufferin, a B&B tucked behind the Chateau Frontenac facing the boardwalk and river, and chatted with some guests. For budget-minded travelers, this is a find. Rooms are nice but not fussy; some have kitchens. A continental breakfast is available for a small fee (but you’d do better elsewhere on that). Some rooms have balconies overlooking the river and the Terrace Dufferin boardwalk. $-$$

Hotel Manoir de l’Esplanade

Hotel Manoir l'Esplanade images showing (clockwise): room, breakfast, view from room, roomOn my most recent visit (February 2024), I stayed at Hotel Manoir de l’Esplanade. This cozy, family-operated B&B has a primo location just inside the St.-Louis Gate and overlooking the National Assembly. Rates include an expanded continental breakfast served from 7am-10am (don’t miss the maple pastry), with extras on weekends.The hotel offers indoor parking in a nearby garage at a discounted rate. It also exchanges money without adding a fee. Our room with two queen beds dressed in white was comfy and had a fridge, a Nespresso machine, and stone and brick walls reflecting the building’s 1845 construction. $$

Hotel Champlain

I stayed at the Hotel Champlain during a winter visit and loved it! So convenient. It’s on a quiet street in the upper section of the old city, and everything is at your fingertips. Renovated a few years ago, the hotel has a contemporary decor and offers a complimentary espresso bar and an electronic (fee) wine bar in the lobby. Make reservations through the hotel to enjoy the breakfast buffet. Parking is available for a fee (reserve in advance). Pricier rooms have views; some have fireplaces and whirlpool tubs; all rooms have a fridge. $$-$$$

Ice Hotel

Swaddle yourself in layers and chill out at the Ice Hotel, a seasonal accommodation built from snow and ice. There are rooms, suites, and even rooms with fireplaces. Guests may use a sauna and hot tubs and, of course, an ice bar. It’s an adventure and a brag-worthy one at that. $$$$+

Where to eat in Quebec City

Honestly, it’s hard to get a bad meal. Do a little research, and ask locals; everyone has recommendations. Here are places where I’ve enjoyed meals, from inexpensive to pricey. Another great way to eat and learn about local restaurants and specialty food purveyors is by taking a food tour (as noted above).

Chez Boulay — Bistro Boreal

Chez Boulay Bistro Boreal menu and sample dishes available at lunch.
For an excellent meal emphasizing ingredients from the boreal forest prepared with creative French flair, dine at Chez Boulay — Bistro Boreal in Quebec City. These images were taken at lunch. ©Hilary Nangle

I savored a memorable lunch at this Chez Boulay — Bistro Boreal on St. Jean Street, within the city walls. Chefs Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand celebrate cuisine inspired by the boreal forest. The menu frequently changes to showcase what’s fresh and locally available. Each dish is artfully presented and delicious.

L’Origin

new restaurant quebec city
L’Origin specializes in organic, local, and seasonal fare. ©Hilary Nangle

While you can order à la carte at L’Orygin, a bistro featuring locally sourced organic fare, the Discovery Menu is the best deal and well worth the splurge ($90 Cdn as of March 2023). It features five tasting courses with options also for vegetarians and vegans. You also can opt for a wine or non-alcoholic pairing. You pick a dessert, and then the pastry chef prepares a plate featuring it. Highly recommend.

Cafe Le St. Malo

Where to eat in Quebec City: The cozy Cafe St. Malo in Quebec city
Mussels & frites are a specialty at Cafe S. Malo, a cozy bistro serving traditional fare. ©Hilary Nangle

Located on Rue St. Paul, amidst the arts and antiques shops, the Bistro Le St. Malo is cozy, comfy, romantic, and tres French! It’s tiny, so you’ll likely want to make reservations during peak seasons or on weekends at his little gem. In winter, ask for a table by the fireplace. The food is hearty and delicious. Prices are moderate. New owners have promised to honor the founders’ legacy.

Buffet de L’Antiquaire

Where to eat in Quebec City: L'Antiquaire in Quebec City serves hearty traditional fare and budget-friendly prices.
Assiette Quebecois, a lunch plate at the Buffet de L’Antiquaire, located on Rue St. Paul in Quebec City. ©HilaryNangle

Practically next door to Cafe Le St. Malo and a budget find, the Buffet de L’Antiquaire serves humongous portions of good, hearty Quebecois fare; meat pies are a specialty. Unless you’re ravenous, consider splitting a main plate and pairing it with a soup, which comes with a plastic-wrapped roll (I’ll forgive them; this place isn’t about fine dining, it’s more of a diner). My lunch could have served a family of four. There’s seating downstairs, at a counter, and upstairs, too. Expect it to be busy; it’s a local favorite but isn’t really on the tourist radar screen. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served.

Restaurant Ophelia

Image collage showing exterior of Restaurant Ophelia and three dishes.
Dinner at Restaurant Ophelia along the Grand Allée in Quebec City. ©Hilary Nangle

We didn’t have dinner reservations on a Sunday evening during Winter Carnival, so we plodded along the Grand Allée seeking a restaurant that was open, appealing, and had seats. We hit the jackpot at Restaurant Ophelia, a sleek spot with an open kitchen and dining on two levels. I had the roasted cod (delicious!), and my friend raved about the zucchini radiatori ravioli. Service was excellent. It serves lunch and dinner.

DETAILS, DETAILS:

Everything you need to know is on Quebec City’s tourism site.

Dawnland Festival celebrates Maine’s Wabanaki culture and ideas

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Dawnland Festival celebrates Maine’s Wabanaki culture and ideas

The free Dawnland Festival of Arts & Ideas returns to Bar Harbor’s College of the Atlantic campus July 12-13, 2025. The festival, organized by The Abbe Museum, celebrates and showcases the culture of Maine’s four Wabanaki tribes — Maliseet, Micmac, Passamaquoddy, and Penobscot — along with that of other Indigenous peoples. Activities include performances, demonstrations, panels featuring Indigenous thought leaders, and a Native arts market.

“The Abbe Museum is thrilled to be able to bring this vibrant festival to the COA campus again this year,” says Betsy Richards (Cherokee Nation), Executive Director & Senior Partner with Wabanaki Nations. “Native arts and cultures cannot be separated from Native ways of knowing. The Dawnland Festival of Arts & Ideas celebrates the Native creative economy while also lifting up Indigenous thought leadership vital to the conversation on a healthy planet and society for us all.”

Here’s the full Dawnland Festival schedule.

Dawnland Festival or Arts and Ideas poster
Don’t miss the Dawnland Festival of Arts and Ideas in Bar Harbor.

The Brunswick Hotel: What it’s like to stay & eat at this renewed inn

Hilary Nangle
-
0
The Brunswick Hotel: What it’s like to stay & eat at this renewed inn
Outdoor patio with fireplace at Noble Kitchen & Bar. The Brunswick Hotel Review. courtesy photo
The outdoor patio at The Brunswick Hotel in downtown Brunswick, Maine. courtesy photo

The Brunswick Hotel reopened in May, 2025, after a multi-million-dollar refurbishment. I visited this boutique property in downtown Brunswick, Maine, just after it had reopened. It’s lighter, brighter, and more luxurious and inviting. Another plus: The Noble Kitchen & Bar restaurant expanded its terrace seating.

The downtown location puts Bowdoin College’s campus, the Amtrak/Concord Coach Lines station, the town mall (village green), and shops and restaurants within a five-minute walk. That makes it easy to catch a performance of the Maine State Music Theatre, a concert in the gazebo on the town mall, or snag a last-minute gift. It also means you don’t need a car (parking is free if you have one), making it an easy getaway from Boston or Portland.

What it’s like to stay at The Brunswick Hotel

Public areas

Lobby of The Brunswick Hotel. courtesy photo
Two seating areas, including one with a work station, invite relaxing in the lobby. courtesy photos

The hotel’s lobby is open and delightful, with white walls, blue accents, and big windows letting in plentiful natural light. A two-sided central fireplace divides the space into sections. Each has comfy seating, and one has a work station. Access to Noble Kitchen & Bar is from the lobby.

Noble Kitchen & Bar

Four views of the Brunswich Hotel's Nobel Kitchen and Bar's indoor and outdoor seating.
Noble Kitchen & Bar at The Brunswick Hotel is a relaxing and inviting spot for cocktails and dinner.

Noble Kitchen & Bar, open from 4 pm Tuesday-Saturday, offers a relaxed place to enjoy modern coastal cuisine prepared from regional ingredients.

Indoor seating includes tables in two sections and at the bar. A big plus here is the outdoor brick patio with a bar. A free-standing gas fireplace adds a nice glow, and large umbrellas shield the sun’s rays.

A selection of appetizers and cocktails. The Brunswick Hotel Review
A selection of appetizers and cocktails.

We dined outside, starting at the bar for creative cocktails and starters and moving to a table for our main courses. The menu makes it hard to choose. We shared fried Brussels sprouts, chicken wings, and baked artichoke dip. All were very good.

Fresh, seasonal entrées at Noble Kitchen & Bar.

Moving on, I had the grilled leek risotto, which I loved. Others raved about the pan-seared scallops, lobster roll, and ramp fettuccini with clams. And I couldn’t resist the root beer float for dessert. I’ve loved them since my grandmother used to make them for me when I was a kidlet. It didn’t disappoint. Mmmmm.

Guest rooms and suites

Views of a king suite at The Brunswick Hotel
King suites at The Brunswick Hotel are especially spacious.

Lucky me! I checked into a king suite. For starters, this suite is generously sized. The living room alone would be ideal for a small bridal shower. The decor is in keeping with the public areas. Furnishings included a sleeper couch with chaise, a separate easy chair, and a desk chair, along with a double-ring coffee table and a desk, and a huge TV. Artwork adorned the walls, and included a selection of Bowdoin College mementos. A big window at one end let in plentiful light, while a mini-bar with sink, mini-refrigerator, and Keurig anchored the other end of the room.

The corner suite’s bedroom continued the theme, with windows on two sides brightening it all. The king bed was dressed in lovely white linens with a grey throw and bookended by tables with lights. An upholstered bench rested at the foot of the bed. A blue easy chair with a reading light was in a corner. Another large TV was mounted on the wall over a dresser (with enough drawers for those staying a while to unpack). The closet contained bathrobes and a safe. A hall closet hid luggage racks.

Other guestroom types include: superior king, superior double queen, double queen, standard king, and accessible king, all with a mini-fridge. Some rooms are dog-friendly (fee).

See video tour of my king suite below.

What else to know about The Brunswick Hotel

Other amenities include a morning coffee service in the lobby, a daily newspaper, free wifi and local and long-distance phone calls, and on-site self-parking. The hotel also has a fitness room. Continental breakfast is available for $15. Thanks to its downtown location, numerous coffee houses, bakeries, and restaurants are within walking distance.

Bottom Line

The beautifully renovated The Brunswick Hotel is a welcome addition to downtown Brunswick for both lodging and dining.

 

Slurp, shuck, and sip at Maine Oyster Festival

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Slurp, shuck, and sip at Maine Oyster Festival
Shucking oysters at the Maine Oyster Festival in Freeport. ©Visit Freeport
Freeport’s Maine Oyster Festival is a must for oyster lovers. ©Visit Freeport

The Maine Oyster Festival returns June 27-29, 2025, to downtown Freeport. If you love oysters, you’ll want to be there. Even better: Attendance is free, although tastings and some events charge a fee.

Feast on Maine oysters and more

Oyster vendor ©Visit Freeport
Mmmm! Oysters! ©Visit Freeport

Oysters, natch, are featured raw and cooked at the Maine Oyster Festival sponsored by Visit Freeport.

Sea farms and mobile shuckers will be shucking and serving raw oysters grown along Maine’s coast on Saturday, June 28, from 10 am – 6 pm, and Sunday, June 29, from 10 am – 4 pm. Each tasting ticket, valid for one oyster, costs $3, and advance purchase tickets are available. Last year, more than 40,000 raw oysters were consumed during the Maine Oyster Festival.

Additional oyster dishes and other food choices (including vegan and vegetarian) will be offered by food trucks & mobile vendors such as Cheese the Day, The Ugly Dumpling, Empanada Club, BK’s Fresh Squeezed, Nor’Easter Oyster Co, Colvard & Co, and Lady Shuckers. Oyster menu items include fried oyster po boys, grilled oysters, smoked oyster dip, oyster tacos, and more.

Taste the signature mignonette created for the festival by FIORE Artisan Olive Oils & Vinegars and Freeport Oyster Bar. The official festival hot sauce is Scurvy Dog by Captain Mowatt’s Hot Sauce Company. Check out the festival’s new signature condiment: Kimchi Juice, from Kimchi Beyond Compare.

Maine Oyster Festival includes live music, exhibits, and kids’ activities

A child interacts with an exhibitor
Kids have special activities and exhibits at the Maine Oyster Festival in Freeport. ©Visit Freeport

Learn about the science of oyster farming from the Maine Aquaculture Association and the Maine Aquaculture Innovation Center, and view US Coast Guard and the Maine Department of Marine Resources exhibits.

Enjoy live music throughout the weekend on the L.L. Bean Discovery Park Stage and a second stage in the Mallard Parking Lot. See full schedule.

Experience hands-on crafts for kids with the Boothbay Sea and Science Center and a touch tank with Tidepool Tim from Gulf of Maine Inc, on Saturday, June 28, from 10 am-6 pm and Sunday, June 29, from 10 am-4 pm.

Oyster and shucking competitions

oyster shuckers competing ©Visit Freeport
Oyster shuckers compete in The Big Shuck. ©Visit Freeport

Sustainable Seafood Advocate Barton Seaver will emcee the Oyster of the Year award ceremony on Saturday, June 28, at 3:00 pm on the Discovery Park Stage. Judges will blind taste oysters from all participating sea farms to choose the Oyster of the Year winner.

The Big Shuck, the professional shuckers’ contest, starts at moon on Sunday, June 29, on the Discovery Park Stage and features planned appearances by two nationally ranked shuckers.

Friday kick-off party

The “Meet the Farmer” kick-off party features live music and includes light appetizers and a beverage. Tickets ($15) for the event, hosted by the Freeport Oyster Bar, benefit the Maine Farmed Seafood Coalition. Doors open at 5:30 pm.

Shop

It’s Freeport, so shop till you drop! Vendors include makers of Maine-made products used in serving or preparing oysters, products made from oyster shells, or other industry by-products, and artworks inspired by the sea. Booths are open on Saturday, June 28, from 10 am – 6 pm and Sunday, June 29, from 10 am – 4 pm.

Easy access

Parking is free and plentiful in Freeport plus a free shuttle service will run from L. L. Bean Corporate Headquarters to the festival site. Better yet: Save the driving and parking hassle and ride Amtrak’s Downeaster train to downtown Freeport.

—

Love food? Check out Maine’s Best Food Festivals.

Maine’s best ice cream: Here’s where to find fresh, Maine-made ice cream statewide

Hilary Nangle
-
6
Maine’s best ice cream: Here’s where to find fresh, Maine-made ice cream statewide
a collage depiciting Maine's best ice cream
Looking for Maine’s best ice cream? I’ve done the research for you. Here’s where to find Maine-made ice cream, gelato, and frozen custard in traditional as well as creative flavors statewide. ©Hilary Nangle

I scream, you scream for Maine-made ice cream

Bar Harbor is a bonanza for those who love Maine-made ice cream ©hilary nangle
Yes, you can even get Maine-made lobster ice cream at Ben & Bill’s in Bar Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

Summertime, summertime, sum-sum-summertime…

Years ago, when I edited a national specialty food publication, the president of one large out-of-state gourmet ice cream manufacturer called me to pitch his new super-premium line and asked for the address to send samples. When I replied with the Maine address, he was crushed. “Oh forget it,” he said. “We don’t even try to sell our ice cream in Maine. Maine has the best ice cream.” He’s right.

My first job was scooping ice cream at long-gone Deering Ice Cream in South Portland. Since then, I’ve been an ice cream aficionado. I’m not a fan of commercial ice creams or from-away concoctions. The truth about ice cream is, the closer you get to the source, the better the product will be, and in Maine, that’s easy to do. Like jimmies (a.k.a. sprinkles) on a cone, dairy bars serving Maine-made ice cream dot the state. (Updated July 23, 2025)

Where to find the best ice cream made in Maine

Here are Maine’s best shops: Each makes its own ice cream, gelato, or custard. Let me know if I’ve missed one of your faves; this remains a work in progress, and I can use your input. Remember, to qualify, a shop must make its own ice cream or gelato. (FYI: Shain’s, Gifford’s, Pugnuts, Shaker Pond, and Roundtop are Maine ice cream brands that can also be found in many other small Maine ice cream shops.) This list doesn’t include soft serve. 

— I haven’t been to every shop…yet…, but * indicates my favorites.

—Just in case you want to immerse yourself in Maine’s favorite foods, here’s a link to my favorite Maine lobster shacks.

—And if chocolate is your favorite ice cream flavor, then check out my Maine Coast Chocolate Trail for artisan chocolatiers.

Bailey's Ice Cream in Scarborough makes its own ice cream. ©Hilary Nangle
Bailey’s Ice Cream is adjacent to a clam shack, so you can enjoy a double treat: fried clams and Maine-made ice cream. ©Hilary Nangle

Southern Coast

In southwestern Maine, get homemade ice cream at Shaker Pond Ice Cream in Alfred or Sanford. ©Hilary Nangle IMG_4198
Looking for Maine’s best ice cream? One place you can find it is at Shaker Pond Ice Cream in Alfred and Sanford. The sea salted caramel is divine. ©Hilary Nangle
Yorks
Alfred
Sanford
Ogunquit
Wells
Kennebunk/Kennebunkport
Biddeford
Saco
Old Orchard Beach
Scarborough

*************************************************************

Willard Scoops in South Portland makes its own ice cream. ©Hilary Nangle
Find Willard Scoops Ice Cream, one of Maine’s best ice creams, on Willard Square in South Portland. ©Hilary Nangle

Greater Portland

Portland
South Portland
Cape Elizabeth
Gorham
Westbrook
North Yarmouth
Freeport

*************************************************************

Fine one of Maine's best ice creams at the Down East Ice Cream Factory in downtown Boothbay Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle
Get an ice cream at The Down East Ice Cream Factory in Boothbay Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

Mid-Coast

Brunswick
Edgecomb

• Blanchard’s Creamery *

Boothbay Harbor
Damariscotta

*************************************************************

Find Wild Cow Creamery on the waterfront walkway, just off Main Street, in downtown Belfast. ©Hilary Nangle
Get a scoop or two at Wild Cow Creamery, on the waterfront in Belfast. ©Hilary Nangle

Penobscot Bay

Rockport
Rockland
Belfast

Searsport

Liberty

*************************************************************

Candy-maker Ben & Bill's in Bar Harbor serves its own Maine-made ice cream flavored with its own candies. ©hilary nangle
Lobster lovers take note: Ben & Bill’s in Bar Harbor serves lobster ice cream. ©Hilary Nangle

Acadia

Pair a classic ice cream flavor with a wild one for some fun. ©hilary Nangle
Maine-made flavors range from classic to wild at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream, one of Maine’s best ice creams, with shops in Bar Harbor and Portland. ©Hilary Nangle
Surry
Blue Hill

• Sea & Tree Gelato (follow on IG to find where and when)

Ellsworth

Bar Harbor

*************************************************************

Down East

 

*************************************************************

Kennebec Ice Kreamery is a cool find in Madison. ©Hilary Nangle

Kennebec Valley

Randolph
• Deb’s Ice Cream & Mini Golf
Manchester
South China

• Back’s Dairy Bar

Winthrop
• Fast Eddy’s
Wayne
Waterville
Skowhegan
Madison

*************************************************************

Sandy River Farm makes custard-style ice cream. ©Hilary Nangle

Western Lakes & Mountains

Gray
New Gloucester
Raymond
  • The Mosquito
Casco
Lovell

• The Cricket Country Store

Mechanic Falls

• Freeze Company 

Norway

• Dolce Amici

Poland

• The Log Yard Dairy Bar

Raymond
South Paris
Sabattus
Auburn
Lisbon Falls
Lisbon
Mechanic Falls

• Freeze Kompany

Farmington

*************************************************************

Butterfield's Ice Cream, Dover-Foxcroft @Hilary Nangle
Butterfield’s dishes out delicious, creamy, homemade ice cream in Dover-Foxcroft. @Hilary Nangle

Maine Highlands

Bangor
Bradley
Dover-Foxcroft

*************************************************************

Aroostook County

Mmmm! Houlton Farms Ice Cream. Find it in Aroostook County. (Houlton Farms photo)
Houlton
Presque Isle
Caribou

 

Maine’s unique Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Maine’s unique Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory

View from one side of the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory
The Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory delivers views down the Penobscot River to the Atlantic from one side. ©Hilary Nangle

The tri-level, glass-walled Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory caps the 447-foot-high west tower, delivering jaw-dropping views over Penobscot Bay, the Camden Hills, Mount Desert Island, and even Katahdin, the state’s highest peak.

But be forewarned: The tower’s elevator zips up 40 stories before opening to floor-to-ceiling glass windows framing the Penobscot River. It’s shocking for most and terrifying for those with a fear of heights. Continue to the top level for the best head-swiveling views. Placards label the various mountains and lakes within sight. (Updated May 2, 2025)

The observatory is sited 447 feet above the Penobscot River
Engineers took inspiration from the Washington Monument when designing the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory ©Hilary Nangle

Access to the observatory is through Fort Knox, a 125-acre state historic site built to protect the upper Penobscot River and named for Major General Henry Knox, George Washington’s first secretary of war. Although construction on the sprawling granite fort began in 1844, it was never finished and never saw battle. “It was very well thought out and planned, and that may have been its best defense,” according to a guide.

The fort overlooks the river and Bucksport. Bring a picnic to enjoy the views and a flashlight to explore the fort’s underground passages.

Tickets, including the fort, range from $3 to $9.50. The fort, dating from 1844, is beautifully restored and a great place for a picnic. It’s also the site of frequent re-enactments and other special events, ranging from a Renaissance Fair to Fright at the Fort, a Halloween spooktacular.

View of the Penobscot Narrows Bridge and Fort Knox
Fort Knox and the Penobscot Narrows Bridge viewed from the waterfront in Bucksport. Engineers took inspiration from the Washington Monument when designing the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory ©Hilary Nangle

Penobscot Narrows Bridge fun facts

  • Maine’s first cable-stay bridge (similar to Boston’s Zakim) opened in 2007, replacing the 75-year-old Waldo Hancock suspension bridge. It’s twice as high as the original.
  • The Washington Monument, built around the same time as Fork Knox, inspired the designers, who used the same Maine granite as the monument’s foundation.
  • The observatory is the world’s tallest bridge observatory and the only one in the United States.
  • It usually takes a decade to construct a bridge of this type, but his one was completed in 3.5 years.
  • The only gold in this Fort Knox is pyrite, a.k.a. Fool’s Gold.

IMG_0783
Rodman cannon at Fort Knox ©Hilary Nangle

Another view of the bridge spanning the Penobscot River Narrows. ©Hilary Nangle

Light up your life: Visit a Maine lighthouse this summer

Hilary Nangle
-
2
Light up your life: Visit a Maine lighthouse this summer

Take a passenger ferry to Monhegan Island to visit its lighthouse complex. ©Hilary Nangle
If you visit Monhegan Island, walk up the hill to visit the lighthouse and also the museums in the former Keeper’s House and newly rebuilt Assistant Keeper’s House. @Hilary Nangle

The romanticism of lighthouse life has motivated many a traveler to seek out a Maine lighthouse or two, and there are numerous ways to do so.

Many of Maine’s 64 beacons can be viewed from land, some only by boat, and lighthouse-themed excursion boats depart from many coastal communities.

A few Maine lighthouses are regularly open to visitors (Owls Head and Rockland Breakwater, for instance). Other beacons are accessible only by special tour or during events.

If you’re keen to sleep in a Maine lighthouse, a few offer that opportunity.

Here are seven ways to experience Maine’s light-keeping heritage. (Updated March 26, 2026)

One Maine lighthouse with a museum is Portland Head Light. ©Hilary Nangle
Portland Head Light, in Cape Elizabeth, is easy to visit, and the complex also has a museum in the former Keeper’s House. ©Hilary Nangle

Become enlightened at a Maine lighthouse museum

The Maine Lighthouse Museum in Rockland is home to the nation’s most extensive collection of Fresnel lenses and a boatload of other artifacts related to lighthouses, the Coast Guard, lifesaving stations, and the sea. It’s a must for any lighthouse lover.

While that’s the biggie for lighthouse museums, other troves of lighthouse lore can be seen in museums at:

Don’t miss Monhegan Island Light, part of the Monhegan Museum complex, where tower tours are available, and the Keeper’s House and Assistant Keeper’s House are filled with history and art.

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.
In addition to being open on a regular schedule by volunteers, Rockland Breakwater Light participates in the Maine Open Lighthouse Day. ©Hilary Nangle photo.

Tour beacons on Maine Open Lighthouse Day

On Maine Open Lighthouse Day, held in early- to mid-September each year, tour more than two dozen lighthouses salting the Maine Coast from Biddeford to Lubec. Most participating sites are open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. for guided or self-guided tours of the keeper’s houses and/or the light towers. Some are only accessible by boat, and usually, excursion boats operate special cruises for the event.

The easiest view of Pumpkin Island Light is from the east end of Little Deer Isle. ©Hilary Nangle
View Pumpkin Island Light, one of the beacons on the Deer Isle Lighthouse Trail, from the eastern end of Little Deer Isle. ©Hilary Nangle

Follow the Deer Isle Lighthouse Trail

Follow the Deer Isle Lighthouse Trail to see eight lighthouses guarding the local waters: Pumpkin Island, Eagle Island, Mark Island, Isle au Haut, Goose Rocks, Brown’s Head, Saddleback Ledge, and Heron Neck. Purchase a Lighthouse Passport and get it stamped at each.

Three area beacons are viewable from shore, but the rest require a boat. Isle au Haut Ferry Service offers lighthouse-themed tours.

One Maine lighthouse that opens its tower for tours is West Quddy Head in Lubec. ©Hilary Nangle
You can climb the tower of West Quoddy Head, Maine’s candy-stripped lighthouse, on special event days. ©Hilary Nangle

Join the party at a special Maine lighthouse open house

While some Maine lighthouses are regularly open to the public, these beacons are accessible only during special events.

Usually, the West Quoddy Head Light Keepers Association hosts an annual Lighthouse Celebration at the Lubec beacon in early July. In addition to live music, food vendors, raffles, and special activities, the U.S. Coast Guard usually offers tower tours during the day. NOTE: The tower may also be open on Saturdays or for other special events; check the site for details.

The Friends of Cutler’s Little River Lighthouse usually schedules an open house each summer. Transportation is provided from Cutler Town Wharf to the island in small open boats; children must supply their life jackets. Refreshments are usually available on the island. Events are weather-dependent.

Visit Wood Island Light

Volunteers from the Friends of Wood Island Lighthouse, located off the coast of Biddeford, offer 1.5-hour guided tours of the lighthouse, which dates from 1806. Those ages 10 and older may climb the 60 stairs to the tower’s lantern room and even crawl through the two-foot-square hatch that accesses the walkway ringing the top. Tours, offered in July and August, depart from Vine’s Landing in Biddeford Pool. Reservations are required and can be made online.

.

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.
You can rent an apartment in the Keeper’s House at Pemaquid Point. ©Hilary Nangle photo.

Stay in a Maine lighthouse

Pemaquid Point Light

Few lighthouses are as dramatically sited at Pemaquid Point; even fewer have been featured on the Maine state quarter. Inside the Keepers House at Pemaquid Point Light, a second-floor, one-bedroom apartment that sleeps four is available for rental by the week from June through October. Off-season rentals require a minimum of 3 nights.

Little River Light House

Friends of the Little River Light House have made it possible to overnight at the light guarding Cutler’s harbor. Guests stay in three bedrooms, all sharing two bathrooms, a living room, and a kitchen, and must bring linens or sleeping bags, towels, food, beverages, and bottled water. The minimum age for an overnight stay is 12. Boat transportation is provided, with the tide determining times.

Whitehead Light Station

Whitehead Light Station, located on Whitehead Island at the mouth of Penobscot Bay, offers rentals. It also offers three- to five-day adult enrichment courses, such as a knitters retreat, craft beer appreciation, and writing and history programs. The 11.1-acre island is home to a seven-bedroom keeper’s house (rental includes full use of the island, transportation, mainland parking, local boating excursions, services of a skipper, and linens).

Seguin Island Light Station

Join the Friends of Seguin Island Light Station (207-443-4808, from $50 ) and be eligible to camp on the island, located at the mouth of the Kennebec River. Or, with a $350 donation (subject to increase), spend a night in the lighthouse. The rustic accommodations include two bedrooms, minimal kitchen facilities, a private bathroom (composting toilet) with running water, and an outhouse. Be sure to read the details of what’s provided and what you must bring. Guests must arrange transportation, and getting to the dock can be tricky.

Goose Rocks Light

Overnights at Goose Rocks Light help Beacon Preservation fund projects to restore and preserve the beacon. The light, located off North Haven Island, is surrounded by water; there is no accessible land. Up to six adults (min. age is 18) can sleep in two bedrooms and one bunkroom. Lighthouse volunteers provide transportation from the North Haven Island ferry terminal.

Burnt Coat Harbor Light

You can book a week’s stay in the Burnt Coat Harbor Light Keeper’s House atop Hockamock Head on Swans Island. The second-floor apartment has a bedroom that sleeps two, a fully equipped kitchen, a separate living room, and a full bathroom. The minimum rental is one week.

Pedal the coast on the Maine Lighthouse Ride

Cruise the coast on a bicycle and view up to nine lighthouses on the annual September Maine Lighthouse Ride. Choose from 25-, 40-, 62- or 100-mile bicycle rides with options for beginners to experienced pedalers. Registration fees vary with distance and include rest stops with food and water and a post-ride celebration. All rides depart from the Southern Maine Community College campus in South Portland. Class I and II e-bikes are permitted. Proceeds benefit the Eastern Trail, a signed, 65-mile bicycle route between Kittery and South Portland.

 • Read about saving lighthouses: Keepers of the Flame: Blind Hope and Passion Fuel Lighthouse Restorations

Sleep in a lighthouse keeper's house on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle
Sunset view from The Keepers House, a rental property on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle

Sugarloaf’s West Mountain expansion

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Sugarloaf’s West Mountain expansion

View from the Outdoor Center of Sugarloaf Mountain ©Hilary Nangle
Sugarloaf Mountain, as seen from the Outdoor Center. ©Hilary Nangle

You can go home again. At least, my return to Sugarloaf Mountain Resort felt that way. I’ve been a Sugarloafer since, well, let’s just say a long time. I first skied here as a child, and for more than 20 years, we spent winters in Carrabassett Valley. Alas, we sold our place just before the pandemic (sound of me banging my head on my desk). It was the right decision then, but I’ve missed the place.

A few weeks ago, I returned to the ‘loaf for a couple of nights at the slopeside Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel in the mountain village just steps from the base lodge. For a ski trip, you can’t beat the location. I came to check out the new lift and trails on Sugarloaf’s West Mountain.

Sugarloaf’s West Mountain comes of age

Blowup of Sugarloaf trail map showing West Mountain new terrain. Blowup
Sugarloaf’s West Mountain terrain caters to confident beginners and content intermediates, but it’s a great cruise for advanced skiers, too. (Screenshot from Sugarloaf trail map)

Truth is, I always liked the ‘loaf’s western flank, with Scoot being one of my favorite trails. It rocks and rolls, ebbing and flowing down the mountain. Sometimes, I’d cut over to Glancer; other times, I’d stay on Scoot until it ran into Windrow. Nothing too challenging here, just solid skiing with good snow.

On crowded days, I’d stay over on this side, taking the clunky old Bucksaw double chair. It was slow, but the crowds were elsewhere, and the skiing was grand. I cried when they took that lift out.

The new, wind-resistant, high-speed Bucksaw Express quad has replaced that old double, providing quick access to Bullwinkle’s, Sugarloaf’s mid-mountain lodge and 12 new beginner/intermediate trails on 120 new skiable acres. Sugarloaf never had enough of the terrain that helps beginners advance to intermediates, and these new trails here solve that problem. And they do so in a way that any skier will love. Tip: Chipper wraps around the mountain’s western edge and delivers swoon-worthy, mostly wilderness views, taking in Crocker Mountain to the Bigelows. Just heavenly.

Another plus: If you already have your ticket or a pass and don’t mind booting up at the car, park in lot E or F on the right side of the Access Road. They edge Bucksaw.

What makes Sugarloaf special

With 1,360 developed, skiable acres, Sugarloaf lays claim to the most skiable acreage in the East (keep in mind that some of it isn’t lift-accessed). Its 4,237-foot summit makes it Maine’s highest winter resort. That elevation also makes its summit Snowfields the East’s only lift-serviced, above-treelike skiing.

Stats are dry, but what really differentiates the ‘loaf is its people. Sugarloafers are a cult. They built this mountain, they ski hard, they play hard, and they’ll defend this place to death. To better understand this phenomenon, I highly recommend reading A Town Build By Ski Bums: The Story of Carrabassett Valley, Maine.” Author Virginia M. Wright meticulously researched this book, as evidenced in the back-of-book Resources pages listing sources consulted and interviews conducted. (Note: A great gift for the Sugarloafer in your life).

Another thing that makes Sugarloaf special is its long season: It usually remains open until May, with some of the best skiing often found from mid-March through mid-April. So, no excuses: There’s still plenty of time to visit during this season. Enjoy!

Where to stay: Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel

Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel front entrance on a snowy day.
The Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel is located in the base village and just steps from the lifts. (Sugarloaf photo)

Why: Location, location, location

Plusses: 30-person outdoor hot tub, ski lockers, restaurant, fitness room

Worthwhile options: Consider splurging on valet parking ($15/day), especially if the temps are frigid and/or there’s snow in the forecast (unless you love shoveling).

What to know: The hotel charges a 12% activity fee per night, which includes, among other things, nightly s’mores, snowshoe rental, ice skates rental at the Outdoor Center, and ski locker storage.

Where to eat

Bullwinkle’s, a full-service bistro on the mountain.

D’Ellie’s in the base village. Always a great choice for breakfast or lunch.

The Bag, in the base village: You can’t depart Sugarloaf without indulging in a Bag Burger. Seriously, trust me on this.

The Rack, on the access road: Ribs! Pizza! And a rollicking ski bar atmosphere that’s family-friendly.

45 North, in the Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel: The chef here loves playing with big flavors.

Apres-ski

Floatsam and jetsam decorating The Rack, a popular acres-ski and dining venue on the Sugarloaf Access Road ©Hilary Nangle
For apres-ski, you can’t go wrong at The Rack on the Sugarloaf Access Road ©Hilary Nangle

The Widowmaker, on the top level of the base lodge, is usually rocking with live music.

Other good bets are The Bag and The Rack (especially in spring, when the crowd overflows outdoors).

 

Sugarloaf trail map.
Sugarloaf’s West Mountain terrain expansion has remedied its lack of easier terrain. (Screenshot from Sugarloaf trail map)

Why attend the Free Freeport Fall Festival

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Why attend the Free Freeport Fall Festival

Images shows craft vendors tents at the annual free family-oriented fun Freeport Fall Festival
The Freeport Fall Festival offers free fun and activities for all ages. you

Whether you’re looking to entertain the kids or to finish (start?) your holiday shopping, the free family-oriented fun Freeport Fall Festival is the answer. This year marks the event’s 25th anniversary, so the line-up of activities, entertainers, and craft vendors is especially fine. Best of all, this even puts the free in Freeport. Of course, you can be tempted to open your wallet to purchase crafts from participating vendors, merchandise at outlets and shops, or food from restaurants and trucks, but you also can simply come and enjoy it all.

Eight reasons this free family-oriented and fun festival

  1. Free admission.
  2. Free, plentiful parking and a free, wheelchair-accessible shuttle service operating between L.L. Bean Corporate HQ and all festival sites.
  3. Free kid’s activities include:
Face painting is just one of many free family-oriented events at the Freeport Fall FestivalFace painting is just one of many free family-oriented events at the Freeport Fall Festival
  • a magical quest with Kids Arcanum,
  • hands-on science with author Katie Coppens,
  • gem trees with Wolf Willow Trees,
  • face painting & glitter tattoos with Party Palooga, and
  • other activities and crafts hosted by Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, Maine Maritime Museum, Wolfe’s Neck Center, Meetinghouse Arts, The Center for Arts & Ecology at the Desert of Maine, the Freeport Lionesses, Freeport Community Services, Freeport Community Library, Maine Family Sea Farm Cooperative, Taro Health, Renewal by Andersen, and the State of Maine Office of MaineCare Services.

pottery exhibit at Freeport Fall Festival
Check out the creations shown by more than 225 juried artists, makers, and food producers.

  1. With more than 225 juried artists, makers, and food producers, the Freeport Fall Festival provides one-stop shopping for your holiday shopping needs. You’ll also discover the most artists and makers in one location during the annual Maine Craft Weekend. Visit Freeport is a 2024 Featured City.
  2. Find your favorite foods at eight food trucks:
  • PB&ME,
  • Mr. Tuna,
  • Jeff’s Jamaican,
  • Empanada Club,
  • Pinky D’s Poutine Factory,
  • L/A Taco,
  • The Ugly Dumpling, and
  • Meet on the Street.
  1. View blacksmithing and knife-making demos with Nick Rossi Knives.
  2. Enjoy free live music by 25 diverse acts throughout the weekend on two stages: wo stages
    the L.L.Bean Discovery Park Stage and the Mallard Parking Lot Stage. Notable performances include Nashville recording artist Charlotte Morris, award-winning Mainers: Paddy Mills, Sara Trunzo and Jack Fossett, and an old-timey string band show by the Bank Mules.

    Enjoy free live music by 25 diverse acts throughout the weekend on two stages at the family-oriented Freeport Fall Festival
    More than 25 diverse acts will perform throughout the weekend on two stages
  3. NEW Rising Stars (ages 13 – 18) and Mini Makers Market (ages 12 and under.) The new market will be located inside Freeport Village Station, Suite 350E and open on Saturday from 10am-6pm and Sunday from 10am-4pm only. Shop for artwork and products made by Maine’s up-and-coming creators!

Details, details

For more details and a full event schedule see Freeport Fall Festival.

The Freeport Fall Festival is presented by Visit Freeport. Formed under the name Freeport Merchants Association in 1977, Visit Freeport serves as the information bureau and destination marketing organization for Freeport, Maine. The office and information center are located at 115 Main St., next to L.L.Bean.

All photos are courtesy of Visit Freeport.

Checking-in: Dunes on the Waterfront, Ogunquit

Hilary Nangle
-
1
Checking-in: Dunes on the Waterfront, Ogunquit

White cottages behind picket fences have views to the ocean.
The dreamy Dunes on the Waterfront features white picket fences, white clapboard cottages with green shutters, lovely gardens, shade trees, and paths made from shells. (©Hilary Nangle)

Ogunquit’s dreamy Dunes on the Waterfront could be a Hollywood set. White picket fences set off the adorable one- to three-bedroom white clapboard cottages trimmed with green shutters spread out on grassy lawns, with shade trees and colorful gardens. The property edges the tidal Ogunquit River and takes its name from the dunes separating the river from the beach beyond.

The cottage colony reopened in May, and I went in mid-July to see the changes new owner Tim Harrington had made. Harrington, known for taking tired or dated properties and turning them into luxury destinations, has left his mark on numerous inns in the Kennebunks and on Mount Desert Island.

Former devotees of The Dunes—many who’ve been returning for generations—may not like the upscaling of the classic cottages. Nor may they be able to afford the rates, which begin at around $1,000 per night (which includes numerous perks). But Harrington knows his clientele; they’ll love the Dunes on the Waterfront.

Inside a Dunes on the Waterfront cottage

collage depiciting the cottage from exterior, view of patio from inside, and living room
Clockwise from top left: my cottage, water glimpses from the living room over the patio, living room. (Hilary Nangle)

The door to my one-bedroom cottage opened into the living room, with French doors at one end opening to a patio with Adirondack-style chairs and distant water views. The jaunty nautical décor included a steamer trunk-style coffee table, an elaborate coral chandelier, waves painted on dresser drawers, seascapes, and a sailor’s valentine. The white-and-beige color palette had small pops of color and pattern. Outlets and ports were plentiful, and a small Bose speaker was in the living room.

My cottage’s comfy furnishings, with gas fireplaces and TVs in the bedroom and the living room, encouraged relaxing and putting my feet up. When temperatures cooled, I pulled a small blanket draped on a chair over my legs for warmth. Perfect!

Collage depicting snacks and drinks provided in the cottage and the hallway pantry.
The hallway between the living room and bedroom served as a pantry. (©Hilary Nangle)

A well-equipped kitchenette in the hallway separating the living room and bathroom offered a microwave, a toaster, and a two-drawer fridge. Soft drinks, juices, and a bottle of rose filled one drawer, and an ice maker was in the other. A basket on the counter held a range of snacks, from cookies to popcorn. Adjacent to it was a Nespresso machine with supplies, but alas, no electric kettle for making tea. The rate includes snacks and drinks. Shelves above the counter held dishes and glasses (surprisingly, no wine glasses), and a drawer held silverware.

collage depicting the bedroom and bathroom
The bedroom in my cottage had a kingsize bed, fireplace, TV, chandelier made of ‘coral,’ a dresser painted with a wave pattern, and an attached bath. (©Hilary Nangle)

The spacious bedroom had a king-size bed with top-notch bedding and linens. Nightstands with reading lights bookended the bed. Cozy robes were in the closet. The en suite bathroom had a large shower and a spacious vanity. The only thing missing was a full-length mirror.

Amenities and Extras at the Dunes on the Waterfront

The outdoor heated pool at the Dunes on the Waterfront
Choose from braving the chilly Atlantic or lounging beside the heated outdoor pool. (©Hilary Nangle)

When I checked in at the lodge, the desk attendant offered me a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne; nice! The lodge also has coffee and hot water for tea (Harney tea, excellent!). You can order coffee drinks, light breakfasts, and snack boards at the small bar where cookies magically appear every afternoon.

collage depicting the docksa and watercraft and beach equipment at The Dunes.
Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Dunes makes it easy to cocoon within the colony and not deal with crowds. Grassy lawns with gardens and mature trees surround the cottages. Guests can use two waterfront docks, one with paddleboards and kayaks and the other with row boats, to cross the river and get to the beach. A shuttle boat also operates occasionally, but not while I was there. Guests can stop in the lodge to pick up a beach bag, beach chairs, and an umbrella.

Sign for The Dunes with cottages beyond.
Snag a lounge chair with an ocean view at The Dunes on the Waterfront in Ogunquit (©Hilary Nangle)

A good-sized outdoor heated pool is rimmed with lounge chairs and umbrellas and has a couple of floating doughnuts for guests to flop upon. Its views earned it a place on my list of Maine’s best outdoor pools with ocean views. Beyond the pool and closer to the river is a firepit rimmed by chairs; s’mores kits are available in the lodge. Lawn games are available, and yoga is offered twice weekly.

street-legal golf cart for shuttles
Shuttles to downtown Ogunquit, Footbridge Beach, and Main Beach are available via golf cart. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Dunes also offers a local shuttle service on a street-legal golf cart. It makes scheduled runs to Footbridge Beach, Main Beach, and downtown. In addition, you can request a shuttle at any time, and if staff is available, they’ll take you. The temps and humidity were miserable during my visit, so I availed myself of the service a few times.

There’s no need to leave

Mediterranean box and glass of rose on patio table
I relaxed on the patio with a glass of rose and a Mediterranean box for dinner. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

Now, about that cocooning. A pastry of the day from Bread & Roses Bakery is delivered to the cottage every morning, and light fare is available to order before 4 pm. On my first night, not wanting to try to dine out on a weekend without reservations, I ordered a Mediterranean plate ( a generous bento-style box with feta cheese, Greek olives, hummus, pickled onions, prosciutto, and crackers). About 15 minutes later, a staff member delivered it to me, and I took that and a glass of wine out on the patio for a lovely evening.

The next night, it was raining, and again, I didn’t want to fight the crowds and rain, so I pulled the Mediterranean plate out of the fridge drawer and enjoyed more of that. Another option is to walk to the Ogunquit Lobster Pound, next door, or just beyond that to Big Daddy’s, which makes its ice cream.

But Ogunquit awaits

College showing Ogunquit Playhouse stage, sign, and building.
Be sure to attend a show at the Ogunquit Playhouse. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

Of course, there’s plenty more to Ogunquit than the beach. One night, I went to the Ogunquit Playhouse for a fabulous evening at this summer stock theater where Broadway actors and known stars perform. Tip: If you’ll be in Ogunquit, get tickets for whatever is playing.

And don’t miss the fabulous oceanfront Ogunquit Museum of American Art.

Collage depicting Perkins Cove
A taste of Perkins Cove  (©Hilary Nangle)

Most excursion boats depart from Perkins Cove, a jumble of former fish shacks turned into shops and restaurants. A pedestrian draw bridge crosses the cozy harbor. I enjoyed a meaty lobster roll at the Lobster Shack, a rustic spot with indoor tables and air-conditioning, but other options are on the menu.

collage depicting the Marginal Way
Ogunquit’s paved Marginal Way footpath skirts the cliff, passes pocket beaches, and offers grand views. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Marginal Way, a paved footpath edging the cliffs and pocket beaches, connects Perkins Cove with the downtown. I shopped my way from downtown to Perkins Cove and then returned along this historical path, stopping often to sit on a bench and savor the views.

Final thoughts

The Dunes on the Waterfront’s staff are perhaps its most vital asset. They’re friendly and eager to help. Whenever I stopped to ask someone a question, they eagerly replied or offered to get the answer. When I went to the lodge to order the Mediterranean plate, I missed the 4 pm cutoff by about 10 minutes, but a staff member said she could make it, suggested I return to my cottage, and she’d deliver it, which she did.

collage showing views of the coffee bar, the fireplace, and menu in the lodge
Light fare is available until 4 pm in the lodge, where you can grab a cup of tea or coffee. (©Hilary Nangle)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

123...59Page 2 of 59