By the sea, by the sea…

Inn By The Sea…by the beautiful sea. That’s the location of the Inn by the Sea.

The inn, a collection of rooms, suites, and two-bedroom cottages evoking Victorian shingle-style architecture, has long been one of Maine’s finest accommodations. Now, one year after a multi-million dollar renovation, it shines even brighter.

IMG_0859Now this is not the place to come on a meager budget unless you snag one of the off-season rates or spring Habitat for Humanity programs, but if you got the bucks, well, you won’t find much classier accommodations in Maine, nor a better inn dining room, nor better service. Nor a place more accommodating to kids and pets.

Now add a cozy lounge, a spa (open to nonguests), a pool, a private boardwalk over the wetlands and dunes to Crescent Beach, a welcoming paw to pets, and ultra-green status—Heck, this place is a certified butterfly waystation and a certified wildlife habitat with  five acres of indigenous gardens, it offers eco-education programs, uses biofuel, has solar heating, a saline pool, amenities in recycled bottles, it has dual-flush toilets, and all the other musts of any green resort, from lightbulbs to bamboo sheets. No green washing here; this place is the real deal.

IMG_0857In the main inn are deluxe rooms (fireplaces), Garden Suites (ground floor level with patio; separate bedroom), and Spa Suites (bi-level with loft bedroom and balcony). Lucky me, I stayed in a spa suite. It was more than spacious, with an expansive downstairs living room, a wet bar with mini fridge and coffeemaker, a porch, and an upstairs balcony bedroom with a bathroom that’s larger than many motel rooms. It has a large spa tub, separate and humongous shower, water closet, dual sinks, and heated floors (loved those!). And the views! Over the gardens, lawn, and pool, to the shrubs shrouding the wetlands, and the ocean.

Throughout the inn the decor is contemporary with a nautical vibe and vaguely reminiscent of a tony yacht: dark wood, compass rose patterns in the floor tiles, images of boats, berth-like sofas, rattan chairs like you’d have expected to find on the Queen Mary, porthole-shaped mirrors. But make no mistake about it, the ocean views are the centerpiece, with big windows framing the gardens and lawns and beyond them, a short stretch of woods-framed wetlands, the dunes, the ocean.

My favorite part: At night,I left my window open to hear waves crashing on distant reefs and against the shore and, on the foggy night, a distant fog horn. That’s my kind of sleep-inducing symphony.

Sea Glass Dining RoomFOOD: If you can’t afford to sleep here, at least dine here; the Sea Glass restaurant is a treat. It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner (entrees $18-29), and there’s also a tapas menu in the lounge. Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich gives an international accent to locally sourced Maine foods, but only the grilled gaucho steak and frites truly utilizes his Argentinian upbringing, with a chimichurri sauce.

I can recommend the Mediterranean scramble for breakfast (eggs, with tomatoes, spinach, feta, Kalamata olives), mmmm. And at dinner, the roasted mushroom tart appetizer was a surprise. More deconstructed, than not, with a housemade crust, topped with lightly roasted wild mushrooms, arugula, crumbled feta, and balsamic syrup. It was bright, crisp, full of flavor. The seafood and lobster paella was equally memorable, a classic done well.

I also snitched tastes off other plates . The pan-seared jumbo scallops are another house specialty and with good reason. These are served with truffle parsnip puree, shaved fennel, gaufrettes,and beurre monte—a lot of fancy words that added up to lingering flavors. The goat cheese gnocchi and marinated beet carpaccio also hit the mark, pleasant surprises, not the usual same-ole, same-ole treatments of goat cheese and beets.

WOOF: Seventeen rooms are dog friendly, one is cat friendly. Get this: Fido can order off a room-service pet menu and have an in-room massage, is welcome throughout the inn and on its grounds, and in winter, is allowed to play on Crescent Beach. If I return, I’m bring my Leos.

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It’s all Greek to me

…and to anyone else at Portland’s annual Greek Heritage Festival, June 25-27, at Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church.

Food, dancing, food, crafts, food, music, food… see a pattern? Well let’s just say they have a shish-kabob recipe for 10,000.

And that’s not all: There’s lamb souvlaki, rice pilaf, Greek salad, dolmades, moussaka, and spanakopita, as well as baklava, kourabiedes, and loukomades, and everything is made by church members using authentic Greek recipes, all-natural ingredients, and love.

Now add traditional music and dancing, even performers in authentic Greek garb. And this being church sponsored, there also will be displays of icons and crosses from around the world and tours of the church.

Trust me, it’s as close to an island in the Aegean Sea as you’re going to get and still be in Maine. And one last tip: Go hungry.

Bridging the ages and the islands

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Rebuilding the Cribstone Bridge connecting Orr's Island to Bailey Island.
Rebuilding the Cribstone Bridge connecting Orr's Island to Bailey Island.

Flower power in Boothbay

Went to a garden party…

Next weekend, June 19-21, the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens is hosting a Garden Fair. Activities include workhops, tours, shows, a garden marketplace, live entertainment, book signings, and lectures.

The fair coincides with the grand opening of the Lerner Garden of the Five Senses, on June 19. As its name implies, the garden plays to the senses with a stone labyrinth that doubles as a reflexology walk, water music, and other features and activities. Just one more reason to visit these magnificent shorefront gardens.

Feeling brew in Belfast

One week ago I was in Belfast, Ireland. Now it’s Belfast, Maine.

Last night, dinner at 3Tides, a.k.a. Lb (pound, as in lobster pound) and Marshall Wharf. Yup, folks, it’s a triple header, and one well worth a stop if you’re in town–heck, it’s even worth a detour or special trip.

IMG_0736Located on Belfast’s waterfront in a renovated boathouse (check out the architectural details) that was raised above flood tide levels, 3Tides is a local favorite that’s still not on too many visitors’ lists because it’s off Main Street. On a fine night, the action’s outdoors, on the huge water-facing deck or below, where there’s a firepit and a bocce ball court.

In the adjacent building is Lb, a lobster pound where you can order lobster cooked or live to go. Also here is Marshall Wharf Brewing, which opened in October 2007. It’s a small brewery, with seven barrels making 12 kegs at a time, about 200,000 gallons. The 13 brews made are all served at 3Tides. Some also are available at Darby’s, also in Belfast; Primo, in Rockland; the Great Lost Bear and Novare  and Duckfat, all in Portland. Here, you can order a sampler tray of five beers for $5. Ask about tours of the brewery.

IMG_07343Tides serves a tapas menu with most choices ranging from $4 to $12. Quite a few are far more than tapas sized, especially the salads and quesadillas. David Carlson, who owns the complex with his wife, was born in New Sweden, Maine, which is Maine’s original Swedish colony and still a hotbed (okay, perhaps warmbed would be more accurate) of Swedish culture in the state. The tapas menu includes Swedish meatballs, a recipe Carlson got from his mother. Authentic, delicious, and served with garlic mashed potatoes as well as lingonberry jam. Yum. (Note: currently closed for renovations)

I also sampled the Pemaquid Oysters, served on the half shell, and Pemaquid mussels, steamed in garlic–both more than memorable in the good way. For my entree, I had the fresh Maine crabmeat quesadilla, made with avacado, light garlic, fresh cilantro, jack and cheddar cheeses, and accompanied by sour cream and house-made salsa. No complaints. I saw the nightly pizzette special and the cobb salad, and both looked quite inviting and judging from the looks on the faces of those enjoying them, I’m guessing they were quite good. You also can get a classic lobster dinner here in season.

Now I didn’t indulge in dessert, but three choices are served nightly and all earned raves from others: carrot cake with caramel filling (others were practically engaged in a fork war over this one), cheesecake, and killer chocolate cake (very, very dense and very, very tempting).

Bottom line: Most definitely, GO.

Sweet dreams in Bar Harbor

Every time I visit The Inns at the Ullikana in Bar Harbor, I stay in a different room, and every time, I swear it’s my new favorite. This time was no different. I stayed in Rockaway in The Yellow House, and I didn’t want to check out. Ever.

The Ullikana and Yellow House are sister inns located across The Field from each other. The former, a Tudor style “cottage”  is a riot of color and art inside, a melange of antiques and contemporary pieces, bright and subdued colors. It’s bright, cheerful, fun, and outgoing… just like its owners, Roy Kasindorf and Helene (the world’s best breakfast chef) Harton.

The Yellow House is decorated in old Bar Harbor style. Spacious rooms, old fashioned wallpaper, antiques, and wicker furniture, most of it original to the house. The guest rooms here are more subdued than those in the Ullikana, and for the most part are more spacious. And quieter.

Guests from both inns gather in the Ullikana’s living room each evening for wine and cheese and to swap stories about their day’s adventures along with advice about where to go, what to do, and where to dine. The return in the morning for breakfast on the harbor-view patio, if the weather’s decent; if not, in the formal dining room by the wood-burning fireplace (that was the case this morning).

And breakfast? Oh my. Today’s began with maple syrup muffins than progressed to carmelized/candied apples, then the main event, lemon souffle pancakes with raspberry sauce. Heaven! And enough food so as not to need lunch, even if hiking in the park all day.

Now here’s the surprise. The inns are within steps of Bar Harbor’s Main Street, yet tucked away and very private. Some rooms even have a water view. Although downtown, you won’t just stumble upon them (unless you’re lost). They’re well hidden in plain view. Extremely convenient location to everything. Walk to the Explorer bus, to the shops, to dinner.

And finally, the hosts. Roy and Helene are two of the finest innkeepers, bar none. Now I’ve stayed at a lot of inns and B&Bs over the years, so when I say that, it means they really stand out against the best of the best. They truly want their guests to enjoy their vacations, and they go out of their way to make sure that happens. They’ve been doing this for 19 years, so they’ve got the experience to back up their naturally outgoing personalities. And trust me, Helene is one of the best breakfast chefs anywhere. I’m still dreaming about the chocolate crepes she served when I visited a year or so ago. Mmmmm.

Bar Harbor and MDI area quick hits

I’m spending a quick 24 hours on Mt. Desert Island. After chatting with a few local sources and a visual scan, I’ve already found quite a few changes on the island and nearby. A few, I’ve mentioned previously. Here’s my latest list (which likely will grow as I get around a bit more):

Acadia National Park

FREE entrance to the park during the third weekend of June, July, and August.

• New concessionaire for the carriage rides in the park

• Cadillac Mountain Road resurfaced (no more potholes!)

• Jordan Pond House, new motorcoach entrance which should help traffic flow for everyone

Bar Harbor and environs

• Eden restaurant, not operating this summer but is planning to reopen in a new location in 2010.

• Side Street Cafe, new restaurant expected to open within a few weeks on Rodick Street.

• Mache restaurant, new owners

• Atlantic Brewing Co. has purchased Bar Harbor Brewing Co.

• Mainely Meat Bar-B-Q is adding a second location on Route 3.

• The Lobster Claw (source of the island’s best lobster roll, according to my foodie friend E) has yet to resurface in a new location.

• The Rose Garden fine dining restaurant at the Bluenose is gone. New at the Bluenose is the Eden Spa.

Southwest/Northeast

• Port in a Storm bookstore closed

• White Birches Campground closed

• Tan Turtle restaurant burned, plans call for it to be rebuilt

Ellsworth/Trenton

• New traffic pattern for Route 3. The section from the Route 1 intersection to the intersection with Lowe’s and Home Depot is now one way. The return is a bit tricky and requires merging left if you want to head south on Route 1.

• Calypso restaurant is no more.

Flower power

It’s June, which means the azalias and rhododendrons are in full bloom. Need an intense experience of either? Visit the American Rhododendron Society Garden, in Freeport, or the Asticou Azalea Garden, in Northeast Harbor.

Freeport in bloom
Freeport in bloom
Asticou Garden, Northeast Harbor
Asticou Garden, Northeast Harbor

Mind the gap

IMG_0362Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge is a tenuous tether crafted by fishermen 350 years ago to bridge the gap between Northern Ireland’s mainland cliffs and an island just offshore the namesake town, which happened to be the best place to fish for migrating salmon.

I timed my visit here far better than that to the Giant’s Causeway; no tour buses in the parking lot, no crowds. Even better, no souvenir shops. Parking is free, but it costs a few pounds to walk the walk and cross the bridge, if you wanna talk the talk later.

It’s about  1 k  out a well-kept cliff-hugging path to two sets of worn, uneven rock steps that descend to the bridge. Earlier in the morning, another guest at our B&B labeled the walk “arduous.” I didn’t find it so. I enjoyed the walk and the views over an almost Caribbean-blue sea.

A monitor punches tickets at the bridge. Crowds back up here because only eight people are allowed on the wobbly rope-and-plank bridge at a time. Most folks stop traffic for photos, and there’s no passing lane. So expect it to take a while to cross over it and then, after exploring the island, to return.

If you simply want to see the bridge and snap a few shots, you can do so from the Portaneevey pullout and viewpoint a few kilometers east of the actual bridge (binoculars will help). Actually, if you’ve got a decent lens, that’s a great spot for photos. Note: If you’re fearful of heights, enjoy this from the distance.

The bridge location, a National Heritage Trust site, is also home to a tearoom serving light lunches, sweets, soup, and other goodies (we shared a scone and a bowl of soup, both quite good). From here you can also see an old lime kiln and across the water to Larrybane, site of an AD800 Iron Age fort.