Ahh, it’s time for the return of the dreaded Maine black flies. Yup, it’s Mother’s Day, and true to the adage, they’ve arrived (click here for a Canadian song about them). Not quite biting yet — for some reason, Maine black flies usually wait until right around Memorial Day to do that, but they’re definitely in full annoyance mode. Bzzzz. Grrrr. And Father’s Day, the traditional close of blackfly season seems oh-so-far away. What’s a Maineah to do? (updated May 2, 2026)
When I used to work in The Forks with rafting, most folks would swear by Avon Skin So Soft as a repellent against Maine black flies I still chuckle when I remember those big, burly guys doused up and smelling so sweet. I wear a netted overtop (which covers my head, too) and overpants when working in the garden. Ben’s and other bug dopes with Deet are very effective, but I worry about the chemicals.
One June, when I was researching a new edition of Moon Mainein the Baxter State Park area, the black flies were so thick that if you swatted at one, you’d hit 30 or so. Ugh. A park ranger suggested tucking Bounce dryer sheets both in my waistband and under a cap. He said it creates a “force field. They’ll swarm but won’t get close enough to bite.”
Of course, if you can’t beat ’em, enjoy ’em. The Maine Blackfly Breeders Association–slogan: We breed ’em you feed ’em–has a few suggestions of how to get the most out of the season. And a selection of merchandise from baseball caps to sweatshirts, stickers to mugs. And it all benefits a good cause.
I thought I could do it. I thought I could make it through a winter a Sugarloaf without a Bag Burger. Yeah, right.
At least once I year I give into the craving–usually lured by the enticing aroma–and order one. My weak moment always comes after a full morning of skiing. Always when I’m ravenously hungry. I go into The Bag thinking soup or salad, but somehow, when the waitress shows up, the words Bag Burger, medium rare, with blue cheese, tumble off my tongue.
It’s not just the juicy burger, it’s also those damn curly fries–so perfect, so crispy, so drool-worthy. Of course, The Bag has had nearly 40 years to perfect these things. I’m guessing there aren’t too many other ski area restaurants that rival it for longevity.
So yup, had one this week. It was everything I remembered. Later, as I was chatting with a friend, I mentioned that I’d had my Bag burger for the year. About three nearby voices replied: yeah, me too. Must be something in the spring air–like the scent of burger on the breeze.
BANFF, Alberta, Canada–With good reason, the Willow Stream Spa at the castle-like Fairmont Banff Springs hotel gets most of the ink when it comes to spa talk (I dished about that one previously), but for anyone seeking a soothing soak in an outdoor mineral pool with the Canadian Rockies as a backdrop, the historic Banff Hot Springs lets you soak without getting soaked.
First a little history: Although long known to native peoples, Banff’s hot spring was “discovered” in 1883 by railway workers building the trans-Canada line. They discovered the lower springs while prospecting on a day off, knew a good thing and filed a claim. A few months later, the upper springs were found. In those times, doctors often recommended visiting a mineral pool, so a big effort was made by the railway to attract tourists. When the government was faced with rival claims, it created the country’s first national park in 1885.
Okay, so much for history. Let me tell you what’s here, now. The current bath house dates from 1932 and is a federal heritage building crafted from rundlestone (from nearby Mt. Rundle) and hand-hewn logs. It houses a small gift shop, a restaurant, locker/changing rooms and an independent spa. Entry fee for the hot springs is $7.30 for adults; $6.30 for ages 3–17 or 65 and older; or $22.50 for a family of four, plus $3.40 for each additional family member. Towel or bathing suit rental is $1.90 (and you can rent a cool-looking, vintage 1920s-styled “heritage” suit). A locker is $1.
Given these prices, don’t expect fancy. The locker room is just that, a place to change. Don’t even plan on taking a leisurely shower afterward–the timed showers are too short to do much other than rinse.
Ahh, but step into the large hot mineral pool, gaze over at the mountains, or close your eyes and dream, and you could be in a frou-frou spa. It’s large enough for a leisurely paddle across. And if you work your way around the edges, you’ll find a few jets. In winter, there’s usually enough snow on the deck to permit a Nordic-spa type roll, if you want to shock your system.
Now here’s a hint: During ski season, go before 2 p.m. to avoid the apres-ski crowds.
Despite doubts, I did it. I backpacked into Poplar Stream hut, the first hut on the new Maine Huts & Trails system. I had doubts because I haven’t donned a backpack in eons, I’ve never hiked in winter and it was 2.5 uphill miles.
It was SO worth it. The trail parallels Poplar Stream from Carrabassett Valley (hometown of Sugarloaf). In mid March, the stream is an ice-choked tumble that laughs as it winds down the mountain. In the background, the snowy Bigelow peaks rise, 4,000-footers that hide Flagstaff Lake. The trail winds through the woods, through white and yellow birches, pine and spruce, an occasional maple, poplar and beech trees, with golden papery leaves that dance and whisper in the wind.
And the hut? It’s a green wonder that welcomed me with warmth, a hot shower, a comfy bed and divine food. Here’s the surprise: It’s completely off the grid, yet it has electricity and radiant heat. The hut has its own mini-hydro station as well as solar panels and a wood boiler. The trio, with propane backup, powers the lights, the heat, the hot water. The toilets are compositing; the showers are coin-up; lights in the bathroom are motion sensitive. Dorms (sleeping 4 to 12) are heated to 55 degrees, and bunks have foam mattresses, fleece blankets and pillows.
And the food! Dinner was chicken cacciatore with pasta, green beans seasoned with soy and sesame, fresh bread and, for dessert, a humongous brownie mounded with fresh whipped cream. Groan. The next morning, it was Maine blueberry pancakes with Maine maple syrup and bacon. Jack, the cook, tries to use as much natural or organic and/or local as possible.
And the price: My one night stay with dinner and breakfast cost about $86 with tax. Of course I had to pack in a sleeping bag, pillow case, clothes and toiletries. Yes, I whined–to myself, no one else was around, and my shoulders ached, but I’ll do it again. I’ll hike in roundtrip, without backpack, for a soup and bread lunch ($5), and when the next hut opens on the shores of Flagstaff Lake, I’m planning a multi-day hike–it’s 10 miles between huts.
And the staff: All are Mainers. Hut manager Melissa is a serious climber, with plans to hike Everest next year; Cher Jack has a long background cooking in the area; Casey, Jack’s assistant, is a master of brownies and whipped cream; Alec, a UNE grad and staff naturalist, gives a fine tour of the eco-friendly systems. If it’s quiet, ask them to play a game or two of Four Corners, a group-oriented Solitaire (really!).
And the future: Wow! Eventually, plans call for the trail to stretch 180 miles, from Bethel to Rockwood. It’s open to hikers and mountain bikers in summer, with portions accessible to paddlers. In winter, the eight-foot-wide corridor is groomed and tracked for skiers, with plenty of room to share snowshoers or hikers.
This is my first destination trip to Manoir Hovey in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, but it certainly won’t be my last. After fewer than 12 hours here, I’m hooked. Hooked on the scenery–rolling farmlands, mountains and lakes. And hooked on the sights. And hooked on the food.
A Relais & Chateaux-member property, Manoir Hovey fronts on Lake Massawippi, in North Hatley. This an elegant country inn located about 30 minutes north of the Derby Line, Vt./Stanstead, Quebec border (I-91 to Canada 55) gets everything right. (light update, June 11, 2026)
History of Manoir Hovey
Built in 1900 by Henry Atkinson, owner of Georgia Power in Atlanta, Manoir Hovey, then called The Birches, was inspired by Mt. Vernon, George Washington’s Virginia estate. The Atkinson family was one of many southern families who began vacationing in the area in the era after the Civil War. Their home was one of the grandest, fronting right on the lake and having not only stables, a coach house, and servants’ quarters, but also a private nine-hole golf course.
In the 1950s, it became an inn, and Kathryn and Stephen Stafford have owned and operated it since 1979. The current name honors Colonial Ebenezer Hovey, a Loyalist who relocated here from New England after the Declaration of Independence.
Dining at Manoir Hovey
But if the accommodations sing, the dining is an aria. The wine list is actually a book, with a resident sommelier available to assist diners in pairing wines with food selections. Dinner begins with an amuse bouche, a teaser for the tastebuds, followed by an appetizer, entree and dessert. A seven-course tasting menu, with wine parings, is available at an additional fee. The dining room is divided into two areas: a winterized porch overlooking the lake and a main room anchored by a fireplace. Chairs are comfortable–vital for a relaxed, well-paced meal that easily stretches to two hours.
Our appetizers, tuna tartar and Quebec lamb with grapefruit and cilantro, were both so good that neither of us wanted to share. Portions were ample, but not oversized. For entrees, we ordered the Quebec lamb and milk-fed veal. Again, we savored every bite. Instead of dessert, we opted for the cheese plate choosing three from about 15 cheeses–sheep, cow and goat, most from Quebec. Our waiter, Marc, explained each. Also of note is the tea menu–a plus for tea lovers. The loose-leaf tea is served in a French press. If all this weren’t enough, a plate of “sweeties” was our parting kiss. Parfait!
What to see and do nearby
Both the Haskell Library and Opera House (left) and the Saint-Benoît-du-Lac monastery are nearby.
Haskell Library and Opera House
When entering the Haskell Library and Opera House, in Stanstead, Vt., watch where you step. The historic structure straddles the U.S./Canada border between Stanstead, Quebec, and Derby Line, Vt. Everyone enters through the front door, but look carefully. A blue line runs diagonally through the reading room, making it possible to read across the lines. Tired of Vermont, step across the room and settle into a chair in Quebec.
Ditto for the upstairs opera house, where the border division consists of a line painted on the floor in the audience section. Locals joke that performers here always play to an international audience. The theater is a work of art in itself; ask in the library for a tour, available for a small fee. Better yet, time a visit to coincide with a show.
One caution: Be careful to park on the side of the border from which you came. From the U.S., park in the parking lot or in front of the library; from Canada, park on the side street or behind. It’s okay to cross the border on foot to enter the library.
Saint Benoit-du-lac Monastery
Also nearby is Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Monastery. The monks at this Benedictine Monastery make cheeses, fruit compotes and spreads, and ciders, which they sell in the gift shop. Tours are offered, and spiritual walking paths lace the property. Try to time your visit to hear a Gregorian chant service.
Balnea
For a real treat, spend an afternoon at Balnea, a Nordic-style spa, about an hour away. Go. That’s all you need to know. This Nordic spa in Bromont, Quebec, is the ultimate in bliss–calming, spacious, oriented to the outside world and hip. Even if you don’t want to go outside (but hey, the deck is heated!) and soak in the outdoor hot tubs, then plunge in the outdoor cold pools and shower or, brrr, the stream, you can still experience the Nordic-style alternation of hot and cold, but indoors. Relax by the fire; better yet, in the theater watching a movie of the natural world. Splurge on a massage–trust me, it’ll be one of the best you ever had.
And more: tea and spa
The nearby Colby-Curtis House is on my list to return to for afternoon tea.
And, of course, there’s plentiful alpine skiing and snowboarding, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing.
