Peak experience at Saddleback

I finally made it over to Saddleback, in Rangeley, and although I managed to pick the coldest day of the year (we’re talking double-digits below zero), it was hard not to keep yo-yoing runs from the frosty summit. The new quad chair should put this semi-retro “resort” on the must-visit list for any skier or rider.

The quad, which replaced the ancient summit T-bar, opens up the peak to all abilities. It also opens up the views, which are among, if not the, finest in New England skidom. From the summit and from the trails, the sweeping vistas roll over the Rangeley Lakes and out to the Presidential Range of the White Mountains, capped by Mt. Washington. And yes, now even confident beginners can enjoy the experience.

What separates Saddleback from most other New England’s other big mountains is that the only a few of the trails ribboning down from its 4,210-foot summit have been widened. Most retain their classic, narrow and serpentine design. That and the continuous 2,000-foot vertical–lots of pitch and roll, with few flat sections.

I skied the lower section of Frostbite (appropriate name, given the temps), one of the new trails; it’s a nice weave through the woods that should only get better with more snow. The upper section wasn’t open, but looking up at that and Black Beauty, both single-diamond blacks, I made a vow to return. I really want to venture into some of the terrain between Black Beauty and Muleskinner, both of which drop off Dazzler.

This Saturday, Jan. 31, is John Christie Day, honoring the former owner of the mountain. It will feature a slide show, Down Mountain and Cross Country, produced by the Ski Museum of Maine and narrated by Scott Andrews, at 2 p.m. in the Swig n’ Smelt (the restaurant/bar upstairs in the lodge). Afterwards, both Christie and Warren Cook, who took over as resort manager this fall, will speak.

Keep in mind that Saddleback delivers big mountain skiing for small mountain prices, with daily lift tix at $40; gotta like that!

Deals, deals, deals…. skiers/riders take note

3454-aThe skiing conditions are phenomenal here in northwestern Maine. The snow is light and very dry (thanks to that recent sub-Arctic air mass), the cover is great, and the crowds, well, what crowds? Perhaps that’s why both Sugarloaf and Sunday River are offering Winter Stimulus Packages (lift and lodging) for Presidents Weekend/Week (Feb. 13-19) that roll back prices 20- to 33-percent below 2008 rates. As always, read the fine print: max occupancy, resort fees, etc., but still a good deal.

This Week is White White World Week at Sugarloaf, with midweek tickets costing $35; with 20 inches of snow, give or take, forecast for today’s storm, Thursday or Friday might be good days to take a “personal” day from work.

Utah? Colorado? Nope, Maine

Don’t know that I’ve ever experienced better snow anywhere than what’s at Sugarloaf right now. Light, dry, fluffy, not a sign of ice or hardpack in sight. White Nitro was soft and sweet, top to bottom; yes, White Nitro. And Gondy Line, oh my! It really is quite magical here, somehow that light, light snow has managed to stay on the trees, so it’s just so pretty. And yes, that means no wind. Cold, yup, but quite tolerable, really.

In other news, my new favorite local chocolate chip cookie comes from the Outdoor Center. Worth a trip, if not for the skiing, or the Wifi, go for the cookies. A wee bit sweet, but the crunchy/chewy texture is perfect; the chips are plentiful; and the flavor tastes homemade. Another friend says the ginger is sublime. Maybe next time.

Powdah!

Forecast called for 4-6 inches, but I’m guessing we’ve already received more than 8 inches of featherweight powder here at Sugarloaf. Temperatures have warmed quite a bit since that blast of sub-zero Arctic air moved out yesterday. I don’t know whether it was the snow or the chill, but crowds have been light. Tomorrow should be a slice of heaven on the slopes.

Andrew Wyeth has died

Andrew WyethAndrew Wyeth, famed painter of such iconic works as Christina’s World, has died, according to information provided by the Farnsworth Museum of American Art, in Rockland. Wyeth, who divided his time between Brandywine, Pa., and midc0ast Maine, created quite a stir a while back with the discovery of the Helga paintings.

“Andrew Wyeth’s work, an extraordinary and unique artistic legacy, is a cornerstone of the Farnsworth’s collection. Working with great skill in the realist tradition, he used his mastery of technique to make pictures of great, complex beauty, psychological depth and emotional resonance that challenged our assumptions about the surface of familiar things. Like all great artists, Andrew Wyeth transformed the private struggles of his inner life into ravishing visual music. The entire museum community mourns the passing of this true American Master”, said Richard Aroneau, President of the Board of Trustees of the Farnsworth.

The Farnsworth Art Museum will be extending its winter hours to include Monday, January 19 and Tuesday, January 20 so that visitors may celebrate the works of Andrew Wyeth now on view in the Wyeth Study Center and the Hadlock Galleries

The Wyeth family has requested that, in lieu of flowers donations be made to the Farnsworth Art Museum or the Brandywine River Museum. Services will be private

Wyeth photo © Bruce Weber, all rights and permissions reserved

A peak dining experience

Fine dining at Sunday River? While I’ve yet to experience it, the concept has arrived. Dining @ The Peak, in the North Peak Lodge, is operating Saturday nights and serving a four-course prix fixe menu for $95 per couple or $50 per person, including access via the new chondula lift and  a glass of champagne upon arrival. The menu changes weekly, but it emphasizes Maine and local foods.

Plan ahead, and make reservations for the special dinner with winemaker Michael Honig on Jan. 24 ($79 pp or $150 per couple). That special five-course menu will include appetizers such as sea scallops wrapped in honey-smoked bacon with Maine maple drizzle and prosciutto-wrapped melon with balsamic drizzle. The featured entrée that night is  tenderloin of beef and duxelle baked en croute with port wine glace de viande. All courses will be paired with Honig varietals.

Parking at the ‘loaf

I’ll make this short and to the point: Carrabassett Valley’s new police chief is strictly enforcing parking regulations at Sugarloaf. Spots where folks have parked for years (think in front of the posts defining the fire lanes) are now verboten. Park there, and you’ll get a ticket. Ditto for the 60-minute lot; don’t push your luck. One friend reported that she passed through that lot and practically every car had a ticket. Consider yourself warned.

Fresh Tracks splurge

It’s SO worth splurging on Whistler’s Fresh Tracks program. For $17.25 adult, $12.60 ages 6 to 12, you get to board the Whistler gondola between 7:30 and 8:30 a.m., have a full hot breakfast at the Roundhouse at the gondola summit, then hit the slopes when patrol rings the bell. That gives you about 45 minutes to make first tracks on the Upper Mountain, before the hordes from below arrive.

While breakfast is nothing to rave about, it’s hearty and good: scrambled eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, breads and pastries, cereals, fresh fruit, juice, coffee, tea. It’s all served cafeteria style.

You can take your chances, or make reservations online. It’s limited to 650, and it does sell out, especially on powder days.

Sky high at Whistler

Spent the better part of today shusshing through about a foot of fresh powder on Blackcomb Mountain, in Whistler, B.C., Canada. Although the base is thin, the skiing was mighty fine, for what was open. Snow instability (translated=avalanche danger) kept most of the upper mountain closed, which put quite a bit of traffic on the lower slopes. Still, we managed to find some quiet trails and nice powder on the sides.

Two highlights: First the waffle at the Crystal Hut. The hut, a classic log cabin at the top of Crystal Lift, is a cozy spot to break for a quick lunch. The menu is simple, but the reason most folks go is for the waffle, topped with berries and chocolate and maple syrup AND whipped cream ($10). Heaven!

Second highlight, riding the new Peak 2 Peak gondola, which bridges Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. Its an amazing lift, that higher than the Empire State Building (gulp) and the span between supporting pillars on either peak is longer than the Golden State Bridge (gulp again). Kinda freaky, not a good choice for anyone fearful of heights (especially on a windy day: It runs in winds up to 50 mph.). The ride was very smooth and quiet; the sensation was a bit like floating.

Want to read more about Whistler and the 2010 Oympics? Read my article in the current issue of Via.

Portland to Kingfield food musings

Every ski town–make that every town–should have a cafe like Kingfield’s  Orange Cat. I never pass it without stopping in, whether for tea or hot cocoa (try the Mexican), those addictive raspberry white chocolate scones, the monsterous chocolate chip cookies, the equally huge salads or sandwiches, or just to chill and do a quick email check. Love this place–it’s cozy, relaxed; stopped by this morning and picked up a muffin for a wee hours of the morning flight tomorrow, but I digress.

Cruising over the Bath Bridge, I glance over toward downtown Bath. I see MaryEllenz is gone. Hmmm, when did that happen? Moved or closed? Since the web site is dead, I’ll assume the latter.

Next stop: Old World Gourmet, at the Big Indian (you know it, when you see it) in Freeport. Another favorite place for picking up good sandwiches and yummy chocolate chip cookies (see a pattern?). BUT ACK! Sign on the door says its closed for the winter. Waah.

Ended up at lunch at the Thai Garden  on Route 1 in Freeport. Still open, still good, still efficient service. Whew! (But no chocolate chip cookies, damn).