Lose the crowds

Hilary Nangle
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We visited Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park yesterday, meeting friends at the Jordan Pond House for lunch (the salad with apples and cranberries is fabulous, and my foodie friend E gives high marks to the lobster stew) on the lawn (with tea and popovers, of course). It was a spectacular September day, and Bar Harbor was jamming. Two huge cruise ships and the usual bus tours dumped what seemed like gazillions of folks onto the island.

Now I often hear folks complain about how crowded Bar Harbor and Acadia are—and if you only hang out downtown or in the park’s icon sites, that’s true. But after lunch we walked out onto the carriage trails. Within five minutes of easy strolling from Jordan Pond House, we were alone in the park. We passed a few hikers early on, but we walked in solitude for 20 minutes or so, accompanied only by birdsong and the music of a rushing stream. Heaven.

And I know from previous visits, that a short walk from downtown Bar Harbor, and one can be in equally quiet sections of the park. Compass Harbor, site of George Dorr’s home (just a foundation, now) is an easy mile jaunt via sidewalk edging Main St./Route 3 from downtown. Or follow the Jesup Path and the Great Meadow Loop. Really, it’s quite easy to escape the crowds, if you’re willing to take a few steps off the pavement.

One last note about Jordan Pond House: If you’re traveling with dogs, you’re welcome to sit on the lawn. The staff even brings a bowl of water for your pooch. While we lunched, there were at least a dozen dogs at the tables surrounding ours (in addition to our two). And as long as your pet is leashed, it’s welcome on the trails (just bring a plastic bag for clean up, if necessary).

What's black, then blue, then red all over?

Hilary Nangle
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What's black, then blue, then red all over?
Blueberry barrens, Deblois, Maine, in October.
Blueberry barrens, Deblois, Maine, in October.

Foliage Faves: Blair Hill Inn

Hilary Nangle
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Foliage Faves: Blair Hill Inn

Vermont gets all the press—but it also gets gazillions of leaf peepers. Here’s a place where you can enjoy the colors without the crowds. (The first in my leaf-peeper foliage faves postings)

Native Mainah

No it’s not easy to get to, but that’s what makes it so worth the effort. Greenville edges Moosehead Lake, that giant blue Rorschach blot in the wilds of northern Maine. It’s the frontier town before tar gives way to dirt, civilization to wilderness. Shops sell all manor of moosey merchandise, fishing and hunting are big biz. Set high on a hillside, just outside of town is a genteel country inn, the splurge-worthy Blair Hill Inn, an oasis of comfort, with excellent service and fabulous breakfasts.

And the views? Stupendous, especially during peak foliage, when the color-dappled mountains surrounding the 40-mile-long lake are reflected in its waters. This is God’s Country, and if you don’t believe me, mosey up to Kokadjo (population, not many) where a giant sign proclaims just that.

The region is laced with hiking trails and with opportunities for boating and paddling and moose spotting. Treat yourself to a cruise on the Katahdin, a retrofitted, early 20th-century boat that was previously used in in the lumbering industry. Or take a foliage flight with Currier’s Flying Service, a great way to view the cliffs of Kineo. Or book a moose safari or other adventure with Northwoods Outfitters.

Maynard’s in Maine lodge

Now, if the Blair Hill Inn is out of range budget wise, not to worry, Greenville has plenty of wallet-friendly spots, too. Chalet Moosehead is a motel that’s right on the lakefront. And in nearby Rockwood, Maynard’s in Maine is an old-time classic—very rustic (in the Maine sense of the word, not the New York sense) lodge and cabins, with a restaurant (see photo) It’s not for everybody, but I love this place, and it’s pet friendly.

Morning in Maine

Hilary Nangle
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Morning in Maine

While I’m on the windjammer theme, let me tell you about my recent sail aboard A Morning in Maine, a 55-foot ketch based in Rockland.

Capt. Bob Pratt aboard Morning in Maine

Capt. Bob Pratt is a marine biologist and Master Maine Guide, which means not only can he sail the waters of Penobscot Bay, he also can explain everything there is to know about the marine life and coastal landscape. A former teacher at both the University of Maine and Maine Maritime Academy, he also possesses the ability to explain things gently.

Sightings of seals are common, porpoises are frequent, whales are rare. We cruised by Rockland’s Breakwater Light. We saw lobster boats hauling traps, Owl’s Head Light winking at us in the fog, and the Nathaniel Bowditch raise its sails and the Victory Chimes sail by under full sail. We watched the fog roll in and Vinalhaven and North Haven islands disappear into the fog; and we saw the state ferries plying the waters to those elusive islands.

Bob is accompanied on board by a first mate and his yellow lab, Poco. And dogs who meet Poco on the dock and are well behaved, are allowed on board for the sail—nice to know, especially if you’re traveling with a pooch. A two-hour sail is a wonderful way to explore Rockland Harbor, where it spills into Penobscot Bay, and it’s a nice intro to sailing aboard a windjammer. If you like it, consider a multi-day sail on one of the Maine Windjammer Association vessels.

And now, September into early October, is the ideal time to sail the Maine Coast. The breezes are more reliable than in summer, the color is beginning to fringe the trees, the bugs are gone, and even on a foggy day (despite my Hurricane Hannah-induced experience, these are rare in September), there are few activities that rival it. As I sit here on a spectacular September morning, I’m dreaming of that sail and mentally planning another.

Victory Chimes two views

Hilary Nangle
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Victory Chimes two views

One from the air, early on a bright sunny day; and one from the sea, taken later that afternoon, as the fog rolled in. In any case, September through early October is a grand time for a windjammer vacation.

Taken from a biplane.
Taken from a biplane.
Taken from aboard Morning in Maine, in Rockland Harbor
Taken from aboard Morning in Maine, in Rockland Harbor

My Maine air show

Hilary Nangle
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My Maine air show

No, not THAT air show. Yesterday, I flew up, up, and away in a 1933 Waco UBF2 biplane from the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum, in Owl’s Head, Maine. Wowser! In my travel adventures, this even outranked riding an ostrich (which I did in Curacao, and which I wouldn’t recommend). I won my 10-minute ride in a raffle—the museum doesn’t sell rides, but it does offer them in auctions and raffles.

Wearing goggles and ear protectors that reduced the noise (all that we lacked were red scarves) and strapped into the open-air cockpit with my seatmate Victor, we bumped down the grassy runway, and then wheeeee! up we went, soaring above the St. George Peninsula, with views back to the Camden Hills and out over island-studded Penobscot Bay. I spotted the three-masted Victory Chimes, the largest in Maine’s windjammer fleet (it’s depicted on the Maine quarter, with Pemaquid light in the backdrop), under full sail, and I even spied a friend’s home in Spruce Head (Hi Kathy, I waved, honest).

While not everyone can take to the skies from the museum, it is possible to ride around the grounds on a Model T and take in all the exhibits; it’s a fabulous collection.

Back on the ground, I checked out the planes, automobiles, motorcycles, engines and whatnot on view at the museum, but even now, I’m still grinning and thinking: Curse, you Red Baron!

(thanks to Lorie Juliano for the photo of me in the plane).

Sweet, sweet Samoset

Hilary Nangle
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Sweet, sweet Samoset

I live so close to the Samoset, that I rarely visit, but here I am in Rockland, for a conference and now I understand why people love this place.

The view out my window is green golf course (Pebble Beach East?), blue ocean, white windjammer sails, and distant islands.

A short walk (unfortunately for now, through a construction site for what will be the new vanishing edge pool), and I’m at the Rockland Breakwater. At the end of this granite pier is the Rockland Lighthouse. It’s a fine vantage point for watching the windjammers sailing in Penobscot Bay.

And if the weather should change (Hannah, stay away), there’s a full indoor health club with pool. Nice. And as of next spring, there will be a full-service spa, too. And the restaurants will be updated and changed. I had dinner at Marcel’s last night, a fine meal, if a bit rich. It will benefit from a lightening of the menu, and the planned switch to a more contemporary decor and addition of a patio.

Of course, there’s all the region offers, too. Tomorrow, I’m off to the Maine Lighthouse Museum, the Farnsworth Museum of American Art, and the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum in the morning, then I’ll be on board Morning in Maine, one of those windjammers in the afternoon. Ahhh, sweet September in Maine.

Saddleback Surprise: Cook new honcho

Hilary Nangle
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The announcement just landed in my inbox. Warren Cook, the former prez and co-owner at Sugarlaof who resigned from the mice lab after allegations of resume enhancements, is taking over the reigns at Saddleback. He replaces GM Tom McCallister, who’s been in the position for 31 years.

Cook is well respected in western Maine, where’s he’s big booster of local causes. He’s known for telling it like it is. When Sugarloaf celebrated its 50th anniversary, at the big bash, he announced: “I sold this area to the two biggest a**&()#@ in the ski industry,” referring to Pres Smith of SKI, then Les Otten of ASC. And he’s considered my most to be an all-around good guy. He really had no reason to embellish his resume, and why he did so remains a mystery.

Saddleback is getting a strong leader in Cook. Another step forward for the ski area, one that still remains quite a sleeper. (hint: great choice for value-conscious or budget-minded skiers and riders)

Portland’s best “junk food” lunch

Hilary Nangle
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A slice of Stephen Lanzalotta’s pizza (fresh, wholesome, delicious) from Miccuci’s Market paired with a $5 shake (actually $4 and made with ice cream from local Smiling Hill Farm) and Belgian fries (double fried in duck fat, of course), both from Duckfat, which is just around the corner. Now get a good foodie read at Rabelais Books, across from Duckfat, and take it all to the prom or waterfront. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Ahhh, September

Hilary Nangle
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It’s quiet, and it’s perfect. Sun-warmed days, cool nights, few bugs, no crowds. And here’s a tip: This week and next are sleepers in Maine. Summer’s vacationing families have left, the leaf peepers have yet to arrive, and pretty much everything is still open. Which means, it’s not only a good time to visit, but also a good time to look for internet specials on inn and hotel web sites.

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