Quebec City fave

Hilary Nangle
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You know this is the 400th anniversary of Quebec City, right? You know that the city is pulling out all the stops, with a mind-boggling schedule of special events and entertainment. Hey, there’s even a one-time-only exhibit of works from the Louvre visiting the Musee National des Beaux-Arts du Quebec. If you’re going, here’s a spot to include in your schedule.

The tony shops of Le Petit Champlain get all the attention, but for my money, Marché du Vieux Port (sorry, site’s not in English, but yo’ll get the idea), a European-style marketplace hugging the waterfront on the edge of the Old City, is the real deal. More than 60 farmers and fishermen, along with producers of condiments, meat products, cheeses, wines, baked goods, lotions and other locally made goods sell their wares. It’s a delicious find, a treat for the senses, a tease to the waistline and a wonderful source for taste-full souvenirs.

Fine food and fresh produce are the market’s big lures, but the market hums year round. No matter the season, vendors offer samples and when time allows, most are willing to chat about their products. Although French is the native tongue, many speak enough English to get the key points across.

It’s the perfect spot to plan a picnic or to stock up the car for the long ride home. Happy munching.

Grand times in Grand Lake Stream

Hilary Nangle
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Grand times in Grand Lake Stream

Most people go to Grand Lake Stream to fish. Some go relax. I go to shop. That’s not easy in a sleepy fishing town that boasts just one tiny general store.

Grand Lake Stream gives meaning to the punchline of the old Maine joke, “ya cahn’t get they-ah from he-ah.” Located two hours east of Bangor, Maine, and less than one hour from New Brunswick, Canada, it’s a remote lake-dotted region where logging and sports fishing are the economic mainstays.

Once a year, however, during the last full weekend in July, Grand Lake Stream’s population of 127 swells when more than 5,000 visitors arrive for the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. They’re attracted by the family-friendly atmosphere and wallet-friendly prices.

The festival comprises about 50 vendors, a music tent, a snack tent and an education tent, as well as exhibits highlighting quilts and the region’s canoe-building heritage. It’s all spread out on the grassy ballfield in the center of town. Children have room to run, dogs space to roll. Crowding is not a problem in this neck of the woods.

This is one of my all-time favorite Maine events–it’s just a wicked good time. For one thing, the music is great and nonstop. A highlight is jazz/blues trumpet player Mark Tiptree, who grew up spending summers here but now plays in New York. Yeah, he’s good. So is Jim Gallant, whose guitar fingerwork alone is worth the price of admission, never mind his deep voice. The Black Sox Band and others keep feet tapping and kids dancing.

Potters, quilters, woodworkers, clothing makers, painters, sculptors, furniture makers, metal workers, basket makers, weavers, jewelers, glass artisans, leather crafters, doll makers, and on and on display, sell and often demonstrate their crafts. Food’s mighty fine, too–if Vinny is selling his smoked salmon kebobs, splurge. And if it gets too hot, you can always jump in a lake.

Saturday night there’s usually a contra dance in the school basement. And the Sunday morning music jam keeps the circle unbroken among area–and visiting–musicians: Anyone can join in, heck bring a set of spoons!

Lodging at this late date is probably hard to snag right in Grand Lake Stream village, but Calais and Eastport are easy commutes to the festival. Gates open 10 a.m. and close at 5 p.m., both Saturday and Sunday.

Steuben Gems: woodworkers, walks, and wildlife

Hilary Nangle
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Steuben Gems: woodworkers, walks, and wildlife

First, let’s get the pronunciation right, it’s stewBEN. Next, let’s nail down its location: It straddles Route 1, wedged between Gouldsboro (Schoodic Peninsula) to the south and Milbridge to the north. Now, here’s why it’s worth noodling off Route 1 to explore Steuben.

Woodworkers in Steuben

Take Rogers Point Road to find the first of two woodworkers worth a visit. Arthur Smith is a master of chainsaw carving. This gifted folk artist looks at a tree and, instead of seeing firewood, sees an animal, perhaps an eagle, great blue heron, or wolf. His wife, Marie, paints his works in realistic colors, and she also weaves baskets reflecting her Native American heritage.

Return to Route 1 and head down Pigeon Hill Rd. to find Ray Carbone, who is to fine woodworking as Arthur is to folk craft. He also crafts stone and bronze sculptures and birdbaths. Beautiful work.

Steuben’s wildlife and walks

Follow signs to the Petit Manan section of the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge. This area is renowned for birdwatching and is also a beautiful place to enjoy a walk.

For a better workout, opt to hike Pigeon Hill, a Downeast Coastal Conservancy preserve with a looped trail network.

One potato, two potato: Seek out Maine’s Fox Family Potato Chips

Hilary Nangle
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One potato, two potato: Seek out Maine’s Fox Family Potato Chips

Honest, I’ve never been one who covets potato chips. Sure, if they’re served with a sandwich, I’ll usually chow a few, but I never order them, never purchase a bag at the corner market.

You can almost feel good about eating Fox Family Potato Chips, they're delicious and without any nasty additives.That was until a few days ago, when I spotted a bag of Fox Family Potato Chips in a country market in Sedgewick, Maine. The silver bag promised “Potato chips that taste the way Mother Nature intended.” Yes, the word potato stood out in red. Underneath, it said: “Prepared by hand to ensure the very best quality.” And then there were the ingredients: potatoes, corn oil, canola oil, salt. That’s it.

If that weren’t clear enough, it also listed what it didn’t contain: no transfat, no cholesterol, no preservatives, no artificial flavors, no artificial colors. They’re made in Maine using Maine potatoes from the Fox Family farm, in Mapleton (that’s just west of Presque Isle, in Aroostook County).

I was intrigued enough to drop 99 cents on a two-ounce bag. I tasted one, and then another, and before I knew it, the bag was history. Oh man are these good. You can actually taste the potato. They’re not oversalted, not greasy. They’re crunchy, flavorful, delicious. And I want more. Now.

Look for the silver bag with red lettering . Besides plain, they come in salt & pepper and BBQ flavor (not the usual BBQ, but with a cayenne-fueled firey kick).

And here’s a parting thought: Nibble on them while sipping Cold River Vodka, also made in Maine from Maine-grown potatoes.

Rusticating at The Rusticator

Hilary Nangle
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As I noted previously, this year the Oakland House, in Brooksville, has embarked on a relationship with Richard Hansen, of Cleonice, in Ellsworth, to operate its Rusticator Restaurant. The slogan is from the place and of the time, and while that sounds vague, it springs to life on the menu, which features familiar foods from local sources in contemporary renditions.

We dined there Saturday and Sunday nights, and it’s obviously a win-win situation. Guests at The Oakland House cottages have dinner included; guests at the Shore Oaks Inn can opt for a dinner plan. If you’re not staying here, don’t despair. The Rusticator is open to the public, too. And judging from the crowd in the dining room, the public is discovering it.

First the setting: The dining rooms are located in The Homestead, a building that dates from 1865. Separate dining rooms are allocated to young families, letting those without young ones dine in a quieter space. That dining room overlooks the inn’s gardens, and during dinner, a sprinkler on the roof provides background water music. It’s really quite delightful.

Guests arriving early for the 7:30 p.m. seating relax on the screened-in porch, enjoying drinks and complementary hors d’oeuvres, before being shown to their tables. Appetizers include the restaurant’s signature Maine Coast in a Box ($11), a sampling of tiny lobster and fried clam rolls. On Saturday, I had the house-cured duck prosciutto and lamb braciola with dried figs ($9), served with crackers; absolutely delicious, and the four-bite size was enough for a taste. My husband had the Blue Hill Bay Mussels, served a white wine with tarragon and Raye’s Stone Mustard; again, nice blend of flavors. my dad had the poached Overlook Farm free-range egg with Four Season Farm spinach, smokey bacon and cider-sage vinaigrette ($7); he loved it.

Next came a basket of foccacia and bread sticks, along with a salad of baby lettuces that for my tastes were slightly under dressed.

Entree choices ($22 to $33) included fresh-picked lobster succotash, roasted dayboat bluefish filet (with Nervous Nellie’s Hot & Sweet Pepper glaze), The Farro of Egypt, Maine (a risotto made with farro from Webb’s Farm and Ann Bossi’s chevre along with local seasonal vegetables and herbs; available vegan). We each chose the roasted hook and line caught halibut, served with Castine Clipper Ship chutney, Maine shrimp kedgeree and grilled zucchini. The halibut was perhaps the best I’ve tasted; a large thick portion that was cooked perfectly throughout, nice and moist without losing the toothsome texture of this fish.

Choosing a dessert was tricky. Possibilities included choclate eclairs, raspberry-blackberry buckle, fig bread pudding, stawberry shortcake, lavender Overlook Farm custardand a lemon mousse in a cookie cup with blueberry sauce. We were all quite full, but I choose the lavender custard. Oh. My! It’s to die for–thick, rich, creamy; so good that I ordered it again the next night.

Sunday night, I began with Rebekah’s crab fancy, kind of a crab fondue served with homemade crackers. This would be easy to split with someone, as it’s very rich. Tom ordered the Napoleon of roasted Four Season Farm gold and red beets and sweet onions, with walnuts and Great Hill blue cheese; it was a work of art in presentation (and flavor).

For the entree, I chose the grilled sirloin lamb chops, paired with kitchen garden mint, tomato and cucumber relish fingerling potatoes, and grilled Artesian Farm zucchini and squash.   Tom had the pan-seared sashimi grade yellowfin tuna, served with a blue cheese Indian pudding and grilled fennel. Again, it was all delicious, and the portions were quite generous.

The Rusticator offers two seatings, one at 5:15, the other at 7:30. Another option is The Coop, a back-of-the-house shared table.

The view from here …

Hilary Nangle
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The view from here …

…is mighty fine. Here being The Inn on the Harbor, in Stonington. It sits tight to Main street, but literally hangs over the harbor, with big windows framing the view and huge decks for watching the boats come and go. Last night, a windjammer sailed by as we were sitting on our deck eating leftovers from the Cockatoo along with cheese (goat brie) and crackers (sesame wheat) from the farmers market and a salad and baguette from Lily’s. Perfect!

With three of us, we opted for the American Eagle, a two-bedroom apartment with full kitchen. Only drawback was the lack of a good assortment of pots and pans and cooking utensils, but I made do with what was available.

The inn provides a continental breakfast buffet, which you can eat in the small buffet room/office area, or take out onto the huge main deck, soaked in morning sunlight and accented with flowers. In the afternoons, it doubles as an espresso spot, also serving sweets and homemade ice cream.

Rooms are open, airy, light and decorated with shabby cottage chic touch. Some have wood-burning fireplaces. I think in winter, when rates plummet, this would be a fabulous place to be during a storm. And yes, it does have a back-up generator.

Hate to leave, but we’re off to Isle au Haut for a day trip, then on to Brooksville.

On the road again: Hard times a'comin'

Hilary Nangle
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I’ve been on the road from Bucksport through Milbridge since mid June researching a new edition of my Moon Acadia book. Here’s what I’m seeing and hearing:

• Where are they? The RVs, I mean. Ditto for the SUVs, far far fewer are chugging up Route 1 and down the peninsulas.

• Traffic seems a bit lighter, but those on the front ranks of tourism report that the tourists are here (must be coming in smaller vehicles). No vacancy signs are out; restaurants, for the most part, appear busy; parking is again a valued commodity.

• But they’re not buying. When I stopped into one gallery yesterday sometime well after 2 p.m., I was the first customer in the shop that day.

• Lobstermen aren’t fishing. Traps are piled on boats and in yards. According to those I’ve chatted with, the cost of bait and the cost of fuel are too high; the price for lobster and the demand for it are too low.

• And that shopkeeper where I was the first customer of the day; her husband is a lobsterman. His boat is out of the water. That family is relying on her income. “What I make in the next three months is what we’ll have for the winter,” she told me.

• The owner of a cottage colony who is active in his church reports that already, the local food pantry can’t keep up with demand.

As that old Maine chestnut goes: The Depression wouldn’t have been so bad, if it hadn’t come on the heels of such hard times.

Sugarloaf gondola redux

Hilary Nangle
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Curious about why Big Sky’s old gondola was shipped to Sugarloaf (and updating info for stories), I placed a call to Sugarloaf head honcho John Diller. What’s the scoop, I asked. The answer, one that’s hedged as pie-in-the-sky, was intriguing.

The gondola was a Sugarloaf icon, Diller said, one that they’d like to replace. Big Sky was replacing its gondy, so the old one was shipped here. But it doesn’t have enough cars to work on the current favored location.

Enter phase II: Loon, a sister resort in New Hampshire, has an overcrowding problem and is looking to replace its gondola. If and when that happens, the Loon gondy also likely be shipped to the ‘loaf, and between the two there will be enough cars to span…

The favored site for now–again, Diller emphasizes it’s all speculation right now– is on West Mountain, from the access road to Bullwinkle’s. The big plus of this location is that it, in conjunction with the Bullwinkle’s expansions, would weatherproof summer operations for weddings and other functions. That would bolster summer operations.

Yeah, I know, it’s a hand-me-down, but hey, it’s a lift, and it’s a gondy, and it’s a start. Let’s hope it happens.

As for what’s new this season: Look for enhanced snowmaking, part one of a two-year program to double capacity; new signage; perhaps expansion at Bullwinkle’s; beginning of a new look for the base village; and general sprucing up.

Do you Cockatoo?

Hilary Nangle
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Dining in Stonington can be a bit of a crapshot. Yes, there are choices–and some can be quite good–but the key words are can be. Some years yes, other years no.

For a few years now, the Cockatoo has operated as a way funky Portuguese seafood-in-the-rough kinda place on Webb Cove (you order inside Carter’s fish market, then took a seat outside overlooking the cove, and your meal was delivered to you).

Last year, Chef Suzen took over the dining room of the former Goose Cove Lodge, in Sunset. While the food was fabulous, you could wait more than an hour for food, sometimes significantly longer than an hour. It was a nightmare.

My how things have changed.

Just returned from dinner at what’s now called Cockatoo Portuguese Restaurant, and it was excellent. Service was attentive, the pace was leisurely, but not too slow. And the paella! Wow! Not the usual shucked seafood in saffron rice, no our order for two came with a complete lobster in the shell as well as clams, mussels, cod and shrimp, all also in their shells, and served over saffron rice with a Portuguese sauce. More of the sauce as well as a broth and a melted butter were served on the side.

We also had an order of the bacalhau ha Braz, shredded codfish with onions, peppers and crispy potatoes, and that too was flavorful, perfectly cooked and came in a more than ample portion. And the grilled and seasoned Portuguese-style garlic bread was the perfect accompaniment for both.

Now add the dreamy views: undeveloped shoreline and an island-dotted horizon. And our server, who was sweet, attentive and truly cared about our experience.

On the flip side, the original restaurant has been closed due to staffing problems. Seems like Suzen got the message. Backing up for a moment, when we’d called for a reservation, we were told no tables were available until 7:30 p.m., and yet when we arrived, there were only a few other tables occupied. I’m guessing they’re spacing out the reservations in order not to overtax the kitchen. Another good sign. Let’s hope it continues.

Oh, and about the name: yes, there is a cockatu in residence at the restaurant.

In other Stonington news, Lily’s has expanded and added an upstairs deck. Dinner is served only on Friday evenings. Perhaps tomorrow, but then what would we do with tonight’s leftovers, which are more than enough for another meal?

Schoodic Region: Chews News

Hilary Nangle
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Schoodic Region: Chews News

(NOTE: Wish I could provide links on these, but for all there either aren’t any or they weren’t active.)

In Winter Harbor, Gerrish’s Store has been a landmark for generations. Once a true country store with marble-countered ice cream fountain and true penny candy, it was purchased a while back by a local wealthy person who tore the heart and soul out of the place, turning it into a swanky deli. (Same person tore down a home that had been in a family for five generations replacing it with the New York-style monstrosity that housed Mama’s Boy, which now sits derelict…but I digress, grrrr).

Anyhoo, this spring the new owner, a Bar Harbor restaurateur, planned to turn it into a restaurant, but he pulled out when he was unable to get a license to serve alcohol outside. Enter Kathryn Baltef, a local woman with previous experience operating a bakery down south, and her daughter Alyssa Rider. The duo opened Two Sisters, a bakery cafe serving breakfast and lunch, Gifford’s ice cream, coffee, tea and sweets. It’s comfortable, welcoming and has free Wifi.

Fisherman’s Inn is still going strong. Once when I was dining there, I asked the waitress how fresh the fish was. She laughed, directed me to the guy sitting in the booth behind us and said: Ask him, he caught it. Portions are generous here and accompanied by a sampling of chef-owner Carl Johnson’s smoked seafoods (he’s also the owner of Grindstone Neck of Maine) and foccacia bread accompanied by an addictive house dipping sauce made from olive oil, parsley, garlic and red pepper.

And yes, Chase’s is still the best choice for local grub and gossip, with good service, huge portions, low prices and better-than-decent fare. Hint: the small order of fish and chips is more than enough for most appetites.

Locals tell me a lobster joint is expected to open at the former Barnicle. Stay tuned for news on that one.

Locals worried that Bunkers Wharf, in Birch Harbor, wouldn’t reopen this spring, but it’s back and going strong. Although pricey by local standards, it has the best views and a super location at the end of the park’s Schoodic Loop; perfect for lunch or dinner. It overlooks a working wharf and lobster boat-filled cove–yeah, way quaint, precious and all those other adjectives used to describe Maine the way it’s depicted in postcards. By the way, Bunker’s is planning to open in Bangor, too, in the old EPI Pizza spot.

Downeast Deli, in Prospect Harbor, is doing well under its new ownership. It now has a dining area adjacent to the deli shop. Pizzas, hot and cold hoagies, sandwiches, etc., but the biggest seller is the homemade ice cream sandwich.

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