Ya cahn't get they-ah from he-ah (or heave ho)

Hilary Nangle
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This time of year, it seems as if practically every road in Maine is either under construction or should be. Between construction delays on some roads and car-swallowing potholes and mountain-and-valley frost heaves on other, it might seem easier to just stay put.

Instead, before venturing out, check search Maine on New England 511, the Maine Department of Transportation’s website, for construction updates and road conditions. And, especially if you don’t have a GPS, always carry a relatively current edition of DeLorme’s Maine Atlas and Gazateer in the car. I can almost always find a back road or byway (often dirt) to get around a traffic jam.

Be forewarned: The MDOT is considering shutting down I-95 southbound between Gardiner and Topsham from mid June through late August, 2008, for reconstruction. (Don’t shoot the messenger.)

As for those potholes and frost heaves: Time heals all wounds. Until it does, better just enjoy life in the slow lane.

The fat lady’s still singing

Hilary Nangle
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And man can that woman belt out a tune. Spent the morning skiing at the loaf, under bluebird skies and in temps that climbed into the 60s. It’s still phenomenal–with excellent cover on most. Sure, it’s getting soft, and yes bare spots are beginning to open and it’s wise to keep an eye out for rocks where cover is thin. BUT, we’re talking top to bottom, with the best conditions off the summit. Nitro, Powder Keg, Gondy, Face fields are all fab. Buckskin to Binder is holding up well–although when that iced-over water bar finally melts, that will do in the upper section.

Either pack a lunch for trailside or go for burgers on Bullwinkle’s deck. Both D’Ellies and Black Diamond Burritos are closed for the season. Of course, if you haven’t had your Bag burger yet…

So, no excuses. Leave work early, resist the urge to till the garden or shoulder the golf bag, instead grab those skis for another glorious weekend. It may be the final act, but the song’s far from over.

Rangeley ramblings

Hilary Nangle
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Scooted over to Saddleback for a few runs today: Delicious early-spring conditions, butter and suger corn, with a side of freeze-capped moguls and temps in the 40s to low 50s. Few folks skiing–it was almost too quiet.

Although I don’t mind T-bars, I’m thrilled that this one will be replaced next season with a fixed quad. That will open up the summit to far more folks, and with the addition of another double-black, it will make the terrain heading toward Muleskinner even better for experts. I skied America for the first time since it was widened, and what a change. I nominate it for National Scenic Byway status; widening opened the panoramic views west to Sunday River and Mt. Washington and north over the Rangeley Lakes. Wow.

Saddleback is closing Sunday; Sugarloaf is still aiming for May 4 or beyond. So resist the urge to store the skis and grab the clubs. You won’t regret it.

It’s true. It’s true…

Hilary Nangle
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Sunday River is installing a chondula from South Ridge to North Peak. Yeah, I know, a what? It’s a chairlift with occasional gondola cabins. According to Rivah wags, this is the first stage of repositioning the resort for four-season use (hiking, walking, biking…). Access will be year round.

It’s but one part of the $14 million upgrade. Also announced is the cutting of new trails on North Peak. And this is the first step toward providing night-skiing on North Peak. What resort spokespeople are referring to as 12-hour skiing could be available as early as next season, pending local approvals.

After years of benign neglect under ASC ownership, The Rivah is back. We luv ya Boyne.

Random pairings

Hilary Nangle
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Thanks to the tanking dollar against the rising pound and Euro, accents are plentiful on New England’s slopes, from the Eastern Europeans manning the lifts to the Brits skiing. Bretton Woods, N.H., is no exception. So, I wasn’t surprised, when I struck up a conversation on the Rosebrook Express chair, to hear what sounded like a British accent peppering the reply to my usual conversation opener: “Having a good day?”

I’ve met folks from Newfoundland to Alaska, Bosnia to New Zealand, and I’ve received insider tips from those chance chairlift meetings, but until yesterday, no one had ever replied to my “Where’s home?” question with “The Isle of Man.”

Whoa–I Googled the grade school geography files collecting dust in my brain: Great Britain, no; Ireland, no; Scotland, close; Wales, not really. Hmm, as familiar as I was with the name, I couldn’t pinpoint it on my inner-vision map.

“It’s way out in the Irish Sea,” he said. At least I was somewhat close in my mental ramblings.

Back in my room, I Googled my computer’s brain. Ahhh yes. The 227-square-mile Isle of Man is located between England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales (roughly midway between Liverpool, England, and Belfast, Ireland). It’s a self-governing kingdom with its own language (Manx) and currency, although English is the spoken language and the pound is accepted. Its parliament, called Tynwald, was founded by the Vikings 1,000 years ago. Who knew? Not me, but I’m intrigued enough to see if I can add it to a travel itinerary the next time I’m in the general area.

But it won’t be for skiing: It doesn’t have a ski resort.

Soak without getting soaked

Hilary Nangle
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BANFF, Alberta, Canada–With good reason, the Willow Stream Spa at the castle-like Fairmont Banff Springs hotel gets most of the ink when it comes to spa talk (I dished about that one previously), but for anyone seeking a soothing soak in an outdoor mineral pool with the Canadian Rockies as a backdrop, the historic Banff Hot Springs lets you soak without getting soaked.

First a little history: Although long known to native peoples, Banff’s hot spring was “discovered” in 1883 by railway workers building the trans-Canada line. They discovered the lower springs while prospecting on a day off, knew a good thing and filed a claim. A few months later, the upper springs were found. In those times, doctors often recommended visiting a mineral pool, so a big effort was made by the railway to attract tourists. When the government was faced with rival claims, it created the country’s first national park in 1885.

Okay, so much for history. Let me tell you what’s here, now. The current bath house dates from 1932 and is a federal heritage building crafted from rundlestone (from nearby Mt. Rundle) and hand-hewn logs. It houses a small gift shop, a restaurant, locker/changing rooms and an independent spa. Entry fee for the hot springs is $7.30 for adults; $6.30 for ages 3–17 or 65 and older; or $22.50 for a family of four, plus $3.40 for each additional family member. Towel or bathing suit rental is $1.90 (and you can rent a cool-looking, vintage 1920s-styled “heritage” suit). A locker is $1.

Given these prices, don’t expect fancy. The locker room is just that, a place to change. Don’t even plan on taking a leisurely shower afterward–the timed showers are too short to do much other than rinse.

Ahh, but step into the large hot mineral pool, gaze over at the mountains, or close your eyes and dream, and you could be in a frou-frou spa. It’s large enough for a leisurely paddle across. And if you work your way around the edges, you’ll find a few jets. In winter, there’s usually enough snow on the deck to permit a Nordic-spa type roll, if you want to shock your system.

Now here’s a hint: During ski season, go before 2 p.m. to avoid the apres-ski crowds.

 

The ski report

Hilary Nangle
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If you live south of, say, Augusta, Maine, you’re likely experiencing that season known as “spring.” Up here in the north country, not. Our Sugarloaf house still has close to four feet in the yard, and the snowbanks still tower well over that. Which means, it’s still winter and the skiing goes on.

And it’s cold. Last two mornings temps have been below zero at 7 a.m., so I haven’t been too quick to head to the mountain, even though the U.S. Nationals are in progress. Today, temps are predicted to shoot up to the 30s–Wow! Heat wave–before it snows (again) tonight.

Yesterday all lifts were running, and the skiing was excellent. Once the bump runs soften, they too should be superb–plenty of snow covering them. Ditto for the Snowfields.

So, hold off on the golf clubs and the tennis racket, and get up here for a few more runs. Really, it doesn’t get much better. And the ‘Loaf is planning on staying open until May 4.

Say it with chocolate

Hilary Nangle
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I…am…a…chocoholic.

There, I said it. I’ve been known to crave dark (only dark, and the darker the better) chocolate at 8 a.m., so you know I’m seriously addicted. Once in Boston, when I craved a fix, I discovered The Chocolate Bar, in The Langham Hotel’s Café Fleuri for brunch.

Oh. My. God!

My friend Karen and I indulged—make that overindulged—in the food of the Gods. Served Saturdays through June, the chocoholic’s dream-come-true offers more than 125 choices, from chocolate soup to chocolate-covered nuts. And I sampled it all.

This year’s “Air, Fire, Water & Earth ” theme is a sensual experience, with the intoxicating aroma of chocolate perfuming the air and shades of brown, from inky dark to creamy milk, coloring buffet tables.

Here’s my advice: Go hungry and pace yourself. You can return again and again. Share familiar choices, such as chocolate chip cookies and chocolate fondue, and more exotic ones, perhaps chocolate spring rolls, chocolate fried risotto balls, even chocolate goat cheese sandwiches. In between sip on what might be the world’s best hot chocolate, or give a nod to health with a glass of merlot.

One note: Yes, there is such a thing as chocolate hangover. Instead of waddling to the nearest sofa for a nap afterwards, try a walk.

A winter’s night in the Maine woods

Hilary Nangle
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Despite doubts, I did it. I backpacked into Poplar Stream hut, the first hut on the new Maine Huts & Trails system. I had doubts because I haven’t donned a backpack in eons, I’ve never hiked in winter and it was 2.5 uphill miles.

It was SO worth it. The trail parallels Poplar Stream from Carrabassett Valley (hometown of Sugarloaf). In mid March, the stream is an ice-choked tumble that laughs as it winds down the mountain. In the background, the snowy Bigelow peaks rise, 4,000-footers that hide Flagstaff Lake. The trail winds through the woods, through white and yellow birches, pine and spruce, an occasional maple, poplar and beech trees, with golden papery leaves that dance and whisper in the wind.

And the hut? It’s a green wonder that welcomed me with warmth, a hot shower, a comfy bed and divine food. Here’s the surprise: It’s completely off the grid, yet it has electricity and radiant heat. The hut has its own mini-hydro station as well as solar panels and a wood boiler. The trio, with propane backup, powers the lights, the heat, the hot water. The toilets are compositing; the showers are coin-up; lights in the bathroom are motion sensitive. Dorms (sleeping 4 to 12) are heated to 55 degrees, and bunks have foam mattresses, fleece blankets and pillows.

And the food! Dinner was chicken cacciatore with pasta, green beans seasoned with soy and sesame, fresh bread and, for dessert, a humongous brownie mounded with fresh whipped cream. Groan. The next morning, it was Maine blueberry pancakes with Maine maple syrup and bacon. Jack, the cook, tries to use as much natural or organic and/or local as possible.

And the price: My one night stay with dinner and breakfast cost about $86 with tax. Of course I had to pack in a sleeping bag, pillow case, clothes and toiletries. Yes, I whined–to myself, no one else was around, and my shoulders ached, but I’ll do it again. I’ll hike in roundtrip, without backpack, for a soup and bread lunch ($5), and when the next hut opens on the shores of Flagstaff Lake, I’m planning a multi-day hike–it’s 10 miles between huts.

And the staff: All are Mainers. Hut manager Melissa is a serious climber, with plans to hike Everest next year; Cher Jack has a long background cooking in the area; Casey, Jack’s assistant, is a master of brownies and whipped cream; Alec, a UNE grad and staff naturalist, gives a fine tour of the eco-friendly systems. If it’s quiet, ask them to play a game or two of Four Corners, a group-oriented Solitaire (really!).

And the future: Wow! Eventually, plans call for the trail to stretch 180 miles, from Bethel to Rockwood. It’s open to hikers and mountain bikers in summer, with portions accessible to paddlers. In winter, the eight-foot-wide corridor is groomed and tracked for skiers, with plenty of room to share snowshoers or hikers.

Dinner and a Downhill

Hilary Nangle
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Whatcha doin’ for dinner Friday night? Sam Hayward, James Beard award-winning chef at Portland’s Fore Street, is taking a road trip to Carrabassett Valley, Maine. Nah, he’s not skiing at the ‘loaf; he’s volunteered to prepare a five-course fund-raising dinner at the newly opened Poplar Stream hut, the first in the new Maine Huts & Trails network.

For $250, you get to work up an appetite by hiking, skiing, or snowshowing about 2.5 uphill miles into the snowy Maine wilds , bed down (don’t forget your sleeping bag) in one of the four- to 12-bunk dorms, and savor both that five-course dinner–with wine pairings–and breakfast prepared by Hayward. Space is limited. More info and the menu is posted online; for reservations, call 877-634-8824.

After returning to civilization on Saturday, mosey over to Sugarloaf to watch the U.S. Nationals, which will feature some of the best Alpine skiers in the country, fresh off the World Cup trail. See you on the Narrow Gauge trail.

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