Sea & ski & slide for the roses

If you’re one of the many skiers and snowboarders who really don’t need a humongous resort, miles of trails, high-speed lifts, and the prices that go with, then you might want to check out Camden Snow Bowl, in coastal Camden, a town better known among yachtsmen than skiers.

The Snow Bowl exists in a time warp, with a vintage A-frame base lodge and retro food and ticket prices. The reward for riding the pokey chair or creaky T-bars is a cruise down nautically named trails that ebb and flow down the 950-foot vertical, delivering glimpses of island-salted Penobscot Bay. In addition to skiing and riding, the town-owned Snow Bowl has terrain and tubing parks,  a toboggan chute, and ice skating on Hosmer Pond.

After this weekend’s storm, it’s bound to have great conditions. As is its toboggan chute, home to the annual North American Tobogganing Championships (registration is still open for this year’s 20th annual slide for the roses). The championships, held the first weekend in February, is the winter wing-ding in Camden.

Image from Camden Snow Bowl.

That blue moon? It's a Maine thing…

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No, really! This Bangor News article tells the whole story, but here’s an excerpt:

In the 1946 article, the author “interpreted what he read in a publication known as the Maine Farmers’ Almanac … and declared that a second full Moon in a calendar month is a ‘Blue Moon,’” the Farmers’ Almanac Web site states.

Eastport’s New Year’s Eve twice the fun

Can’t get enough of that New Year’s Eve midnight joy? Experience it twice, in Eastport.

The first city in the U.S. to see the sun rise drops the ball, err make that sardine and maple leaf, twice, once each.

See, it’s like this: Eastport shares much history and culture with St. Andrews, NB, Canada, its neighbor across Passamaquddy Bay. St. Andrews is in the Atlantic time zone. So, at 11 pm Eastern time, which is midnight St. Andrews time, a giant maple leaf drops from the top floor of the downtown Tides Institute (okay, it’s only three stories, but it works). Then, one hour later, when it’s midnight eastern time, down comes the sardine, a symbol of the seaport’s heritage. New Year’s Eve in Eastport? Why not, it’s twice the fun.

Maine maple walnut pie

Since I’m in a baking frenzy, thought I’d share the recipe for Maine maple walnut pie. It’s delicious anytime, but it’s especially fun to make during maple season, perhaps with syrup acquired on Maine Maple Sunday Weekend.

Maine Maple Walnut Pie

INGREDIENTS

3/4 cup  granulated sugar

1/2 cup  firmly packed light brown sugar

1/3 cup  butter, softened

3  eggs

1/2 cup  light cream

1/4 cup  Maine maple syrup

1/4 tsp  salt

1 cup  walnuts, broken into pieces

1 tsp  vanilla

9-inch  unbaked piecrust

DIRECTIONS

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

• In a saucepan, cream the granulated sugar, brown sugar and butter.

• Add the eggs and beat well.

• Add the cream, maple syrup and salt.

• Cook over low heat for five minutes, stirring constantly.

• Remove from the heat, and stir in the walnuts and vanilla.

• Pour into the pie crust, then bake for one hour.

Serve this topped with real whipped cream or ice cream (preferably Maine-made, such as Gifford’s).

Foliage Faves: Moosehead Lake

IMG_3533According to the Maine foliage report, the Moosehead region is currently moderate, which means if you travel now through the next week or so, you’re going to get glorious colors. Why Moosehead? Between the mountains, the forested wilderness, and Maine’s largest lake, the opportunities for leaf peeping are among the state’s best.

For starters, you can cruise Moosehead aboard The Kate, and this Sunday, Sept. 26, there’s even a special cruise to the head of the lake.

Or, get airborne with Currier’s Flying Service, for a birds-eye view of the color, and perhaps the opportunity to spy a moose from above.

IMG_3481Drive the woods road to Pittston Farm, for a true adventure. En route, watch for deer, turkey, moose, bear, and other critters. At the farm, visit the museum, perhaps rent a canoe for a paddle, hike into the woods, maybe even spend the night.

Take the shuttle from Rockwood to Kineo for a hike.

And when it’s time to call it a night:

Blair Hill Inn: The ultimate in luxury in the woods. A tastefully updated, 1891 Victorian mansion set high on a hill with panoramic views over the lake.

Lodge at Moosehead: Another luxury property, this one with a Maine woods motif.

Chalet Moosehead: The motel rooms are practically in the lake.

West Branch Camps: (top photo) Another favorite, but not a good choice for anyone who’s the least bit fussy. Classic old-time sporting camp right on West Branch Pond. Watch moose foraging in the pond while dining on good home cookin’. Bring warm clothes; only woodstoves provide heat.

10 signs of autumn in Maine

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autumn color pops along the Kennebec River
Early color at a rest area along Maine’s Kennebec River. ©Hilary Nangle

Every year, at some point near the end of September, you know autumn has arrived in Maine. Here are 10 signs that herald that event.

1. Frost is in the forecast.

2. Maine’s foliage report

3. Common Ground Fair kicks off

4. Wild turkeys seem to be everywhere

5. Most RVs on the road are headed south

6. It’s actually possible to get they-ah from he-ah on Route 1, even if that means passing through Wiscasset or Camden.

7. Fleece or wool become part of the daily wardrobe

8. All the seasonal shops have huge SALE signs in the windows

9. The tomato rush is on: Will they ripen before the frost? (see #1)

10. The quest for the perfect apple begins

Isle au Haut and Acadia National Park: Escape crowds on a day trip or overnight

Isle au Haut ranger on Eben Head
An Acadia National Park ranger hiking Eben Head in the park’s most remote section on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle

In summer, the passenger ferry servicing Isle au Haut is packed with kids and dogs, hikers and freight. Not so in September. From Stonington at the tip of Deer Isle, this lovely island oasis is a scenic 45-minute ride aboard the Isle au Haut Boat Services mailboat, which weaves through islands and passes Robinson Light. (updated June 15, 2026)

Isle au Haut is Acadia National Park's most remote section ©Hilary Nangle
Welcome to Acadia National Park on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle

The island is home to a remote section of Acadia National Park, so most folks come for the hiking. On most mornings, a park ranger meets the boat at the park dock in Duck Harbor, passes out trail maps, points out highlights en route, recommends trails, and answers questions. Also here are a handful of lean-to camping sites that must be reserved in advance.

Isle au Haut campground lean-to
If you want to spend a few days hiking on Isle au Haut, make reservations well in advance to score one of the handful of camping lean-tos at Duck Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

Autumn is an ideal time of the year to hike. The temperatures are coolishly warm – or is that warmishly cool? – and a nice breeze keeps it that way. The trees are beginning to blush. And the trails are all but empty.

The tiny post office on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle

But, if you want to visit the Isle au Haut General Store, see the tiny post office, and shop at the island’s lone souvenir store, the Maine Shore Shop (you can purchase all of local celebrity swordfishing captain-turned author Linda Greenlaw’s books here), then get off at the passenger ferry’s first stop, Town Landing. From there, it’s about a 4-mile hike into the park.

rocky beach in Acadia on Isle ai Haut
It’s an easy walk along an old woods road to this rocky beach in Acadia National Park on Isle au Haut. ©Hilary Nangle

Truth is, if you want a ride, it’s a safe hitch. Everyone slows down, waves, smiles, or nods. It would be easy to request a ride on down the road, even if that means hopping in a pick-up bed. Island cars aren’t fancy, but they do the job. On the other hand, walking provides other pleasures, like watching the dragonflies dance and deer nibble on fallen apples in forgotten orchards.

There’s not much on Isle au Haut, and that’s what’s so appealing about it. You can hear yourself think and, if you’re lucky and in the right frame o’ mind, achieve Zen.

Robinson Light on Isle au Haut
The Isle au Haut mailboat cruises by Robinson Light. ©Hilary Nangle

Portland snooze

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View from an upper-floor room at the Holiday Inn by the Bay in downtown Portland. ©Hilarhy Nangle

The Holiday Inn by the Bay is one of the ugliest buildings in Portland, but it also delivers  perhaps the best bang for the buck of any intown hotel.

For starters, the Spring Street location is convenient to the Arts District and West End, and it’s very walkable to the Old Port and Waterfront, making it easy to park the car and forget about it.

Better yet, that parking is free (big points!).

Now add a free shuttle service.

And free Wi-fi.

And an indoor pool, along with fitness center and sauna.

And a free business center.

And a free coffee/tea/lemonade bar (and yes, there’s a full restaurant and lounge).

And a guest coin-op laundry.

Even a pillow menu.

Best perk: The views. From the top floors (Ask for one on the 11th floor, bayside), they extend over the city, harbor, island-salted Casco Bay, and SoPo’s Spring Point to the horizon of blue ocean.

The reality of Acadia’s rogue wave tragedy

There have been lots of stories, and even more rumors regarding last weekend’s storm-related tragedy on Mount Desert Island’s Acadia National Park.

Truth is, many folks are drawn to crashing surf like moths to a flame. The problem is that few are familiar with rogue waves, those oversized, out-of-pattern swells that surprise and sweep everything in their path out to sea.