Preserving Maine’s inland wilderness

Two recent acquisitions have protected some of Maine’s prized wilderness. The Appalachian Mountain Club has acquired and protected the Roach Ponds tract in the 100-Mile Wilderness region, and The Nature Conservancy’s has done the same with Number 5 Bog and the Moose River Bow trip, near Jackman.

The AMC’s 29,500-acre purchase secures the “missing link” in what is now a 63-mile-long corridor of conservation land, comprising 600,000 acres stretching from Moosehead Lake to Baxter State Park. A conservation easement on the property, held by the Maine Department of Conservation, protects the land from development, allows for timber management, and guarantees public access for primitive recreation in perpetuity. That’s an all-around win that will help provide local jobs in the forest products industry and promote nature-based tourism in Piscataquis County.

The Nature Conservancy’s 15,000-acre acquisition protects, in its entirety, the ecologically significant Number 5 Bog, as well as the Moose River Bow Trip, a prized and remote paddling route.

On the road, again

Just a quick note to apologize about the lack of postings. I’ve been on the road in Arizona for nearly two weeks.  I hope to catch up and resume regular blogging next week. As always, I’ll focus on Maine (especially to keep those of you with older editions of my guidebooks up to date), but I’ll share a few of my Arizona discoveries as well.

In the meantime, if you’re a foodie, I hope you’re in Portland this weekend for Harvest on the Harbor.

An autumn ramble in the western mountains of Maine

EIMG_4590ven though the color is a bit from peak, it’s still gorgeous in the Bethel area. If you’re looking to slip away for a day or two, you won’t go wrong here in the next week or so.

My overnight began with a backroad noodle through the village- and lake-speckled rural countryside between m Augusta and Bethel. Trust me on this: Arm yourself with a DeLorme Map and Guide and just mosey through Leeds, Turner, Buckfield, Sumner etc. The rewards are well worth a few wrong turns; actually getting lost is half the fun.

IMG_4577Once in Bethel, I met a friend for lunch, a pulled-pork sandwich at BBQ Bob’s Orange Trailer, adjacent to the Good Food Store on Route 2. Despite retreating to a car to finish lunch due to an afternoon sprinkle, I give this picnic table enterprise high marks. Wasn’t too crazy about the cornbread, but the pork was delish.

Then off to the Crocker Pond House, an architect-designed B&B down a rural byway off Route 2. What a find! Stuart (he’s the architect) and Ellen Crocker’s B&B blends angles, projections, big windows, balconies, soaring spaces and intimate places into a cozy whole. Family rooms have sleeping lofts for the kids, a great idea. So quiet at night, too. How quiet? While in the living room, I could hear the soft psiu psiu of the cats padding down the hall. And outside, acres of undeveloped land, with a big lawn, a private pond, and trails deep into the woods. And breakfast? Stuart’s magnificent blueberry pancakes.

For dinner, I hit $5 burger night at the Jolly Drayman at the Brier Lea, an extremely popular Monday night happening in Bethel. No little patties here, these are big burgers topped with lettuce, onion, and tomato and served with a generous side of fries. All for $5.

IMG_4682Next morning, I wandered around Bethel, then drove over Paradise Hill, a must for foliage viewing without stress. Drive out past the Bethel Inn, then keep going, bending to the left on Paradise Hill Road. It climbs up to a ridge with panoramic mountain views off both sides, before dropping. At the T intersection, turn left and you’ll be back in downtown Bethel. A quick loop, but one with big rewards for leaf peepers.

Lunch: S.S. Milton. First time I’ve returned since it replaced Mother’s ages ago. I’ll definitely make it a must on my returns to Bethel. Good food, well prepared, friendly service, and a comfy space: a warren of small rooms in an old Victorian on Main Street. IMG_4587

Next stop, Cafe DiCocoa for chocolate chip cookies (yup, these rival those at Old Gourmet for top honors so far) and tea for the road. (Note to self: Return in winter for one of the ethnic themed prix fixe dinners).

IMG_4706Final stop, in Turner at Nezinscot Farm. What a gem, a family farm/fiber store/frommagerie/cafe/and so much  more. I purchased farm-made cheese, meats, relish, pickles, Anadama bread (some of the best I’ve had, right up there with that from Friar’s Bakery, in Bangor) and yes, a cookie (excellent!, a contender).

In search of the perfect chocolate chip cookie

For much of my life, I’ve been on a quest for the perfect retail chocolate chip cookie. I seek one that best emulates a home-baked cookie. One that’s crunchy-chewy, made with real butter and brown sugar and good chocolate; nuts are good, but not a requirement. I prefer cookies that deliver three or four li’l bites, about a three-inch diameter rather than the humungo ones (which despite self-promises to only eat a portion, I never do), and I like them priced for mere mortals; spending $2 for one cookie seems sinful.

So here on my current favorites in Maine. If you have suggestions, let me know, and I’ll sample while in the area.

TOP CHOICE: Old World Gourmet, Route 1, Freeport (at the Big Indian). Oh man, these are perfect. Not too large, not too small, often warm out of the oven, and always full of flavor and dotted with plentiful chips. These are the classics by which I now judge every other cookie. Last year, Old World Gourmet closed for the winter. I’m praying it doesn’t do so again. I’ve been known to go well out of my way to score one of these beauties, and I’ve run into others who do the same.

CLOSE SECOND: Two Cats Bakery, India St., Portland. Until I tasted Old World’s, these were my fave. Again, dense with chips, right sized, good texture (although I prefer a softer center, but probably not possible given the lower profile) and full of flavor. It stands up well to dunking.

CONTENDERS:

Rooster Brother, Rte. 1, Ellsworth: Downstairs in this kitchenware emporium is a small deli and a coffee station with cookies. I’ve yet to drive by without stopping in for one. These loose a few points for size and price (which, often go together) as well as for being a bit too nutty (and sometimes a bit on the dry side). But then, like I said, I always get one.

Orange Cat, Rte 27, Kingfield: These are almost chocolate chip cakes, rather than cookies, they’re huge (again, price correlation) with more of a cake-like texture. Chips are abundant, but tiny. But yeah, they’re quite yummy,  especially  when still warm so the chips are gooey.

D’Ellies, Sugarloaf and Boothbay Harbor: I used to love these cookies, but lately I’ve been finding them a bit on the dry side, sometimes to the point of almost seeming stale. Other knock-down points are size and price, too big and too expensive (and yes, again, I realize those go together). Still, after a few hours on the slopes, I find D’Ellies is like a magnet, I just can’t stop myself from going in and purchasing a cookie.

Spear’s Farm Stand, Rte. 1, Waldoboro: These softies make up for the lack of crunch, the absence of nuts, and a bit too much sugar with abundant chunks of chocolate and a perfect size.

Snow!

Nothing prettier than a frost of snow against turning leaves. Check out this photo from Saddleback, taken this morning. And wait until another week or so, when the foliage gets closer to peak, then it will be spectacular.releases_620_1_o

Foliage Faves: Moosehead Lake

IMG_3533According to the Maine foliage report, the Moosehead region is currently moderate, which means if you travel now through the next week or so, you’re going to get glorious colors. Why Moosehead? Between the mountains, the forested wilderness, and Maine’s largest lake, the opportunities for leaf peeping are among the state’s best.

For starters, you can cruise Moosehead aboard The Kate, and this Sunday, Sept. 26, there’s even a special cruise to the head of the lake.

Or, get airborne with Currier’s Flying Service, for a birds-eye view of the color, and perhaps the opportunity to spy a moose from above.

IMG_3481Drive the woods road to Pittston Farm, for a true adventure. En route, watch for deer, turkey, moose, bear, and other critters. At the farm, visit the museum, perhaps rent a canoe for a paddle, hike into the woods, maybe even spend the night.

Take the shuttle from Rockwood to Kineo for a hike.

And when it’s time to call it a night:

Blair Hill Inn: The ultimate in luxury in the woods. A tastefully updated, 1891 Victorian mansion set high on a hill with panoramic views over the lake.

Lodge at Moosehead: Another luxury property, this one with a Maine woods motif.

Chalet Moosehead: The motel rooms are practically in the lake.

IMG_3470Maynard’s in Maine: I like this totally unfussy, pet-friendly retro lodge and cabins where choices include rates with all meals, or not.

West Branch Camps: (top photo) Another favorite, but not a good choice for anyone who’s the least bit fussy. Classic old sporting camp right on West Branch Pond. Watch moose foraging in the pond while dining on good home cookin’. Bring warm clothes; only woodstoves provide heat.

Ten signs of autumn

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1. Frost in the forecast.

2. Maine’s foliage report

3. Common Ground Fair kicks off today

4. Wild turkeys seem to be everywhere

5. Any RVs on the road are headed south

6. It’s actually possible to get they-ah from he-ah on Route 1, even if that means passing through Wiscasset or Camden.

7. Fleece is again part of the daily wardrobe

8. All the seasonal shops have huge SALE signs in the windows

9. The tomato rush is on: Will they ripen before the frost? (see #1)

10. The quest for the perfect apple has begun

Island Hopping 4: Isle au Haut

In summer, the daily boat to Isle au Haut is packed with kids and dogs, hikers and freight. Not so in September. As I write this, I’m sitting at the Black Dinah Chocolatiers Internet Cafe, having nibbled my way through a couple of selections and a cup of tea. That alone is reason to visit this lovely oasis about a 45-minute boat ride from Stonington.

Frankly, though, most folks come for the hiking. Isle au Haut is home to a remote section of Acadia National Park. On most mornings, a park ranger boards the boat in Stonington, passes out trail maps, points out highlights en route, and answers questions as the boat stops first at the town landing, then continues on to Duck Harbor. Also here are a handful of lean-to camping sites.

What an idea time of the year to hike. The temperatures are coolishly warm, or is that warmishly cool? A nice breeze keeps it that way. The trees are beginning to blush. And the trails are all but empty.

From Town Landing to the park is nearly 4 miles, so it’s smart to exit at the park for hiking only. But, if you want to visit the Isle au Haut General Store, see the tiny post office, visit Black Dinah for to-die-for truffles, or shop at the island’s lone souvenir store, The Urchin Shop (you can purchase all of local celebrity swordfishing captain-turned author Linda Greenlaw’s books here), then Town Landing it is.

Truth is, if you want a ride, it’s a safe hitch. Everyone slows down, waves, smiles or nods. it would be easy to request a ride on down the, even if that means hopping in a pick-up bed. Island cars aren’t fancy, but they do the job. But walking provides other pleasures, like watching the dragonflies dance and deer nibble on fallen apples in forgotten orchards.

Truly, there’s not much on Isle au Haut, and that’s what’s so appealing about it. You can hear yourself think and, if you’re lucky and in the right frame o’ mind, achieve Zen.

Apologies

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I just turned in the manuscript for a new edition of Moon Coastal Maine, slated for spring 2010 publication. Between meeting that deadline and now dealing with what’s stacked up behind it, I haven’t had a chance to post here. But I will. Soon. Honest.

Leave are beginning to turn, with hints of (and occasionally full-blown shocks) of red, gold, and orange coloring the landscape. Days are in the 60s, nights dropping into the 40s. Gorgeous time to come up for an escape, and I’m beginning to see lots of enticing offers, too. I’ll try to play catch up, soon.

Portland snooze

IMG_4020The Holiday Inn by the Bay is one of the ugliest buildings in Portland, but it also delivers  perhaps the best bang for the buck of any intown hotel.

For starters, the Spring Street location is convenient to the Arts District and West End, and it’s very walkable to the Old Port and Waterfront, making it easy to park the car and forget about it.

Better yet, that parking is free (big points!).

Now add a free shuttle service.

And free Wi-fi.

And an indoor pool, along with fitness center and sauna.

And a free business center.

And a free coffee/tea/lemonade bar (and yes, there’s a full restaurant and lounge).

And a guest coin-op laundry.

Even a pillow menu.

Best perk: The views. From the top floors (Ask for one on the 11th floor, bayside), they extend over the city, harbor, island-salted Casco Bay, and SoPo’s Spring Point to the horizon of blue ocean.