There have been lots of stories, and even more rumors regarding last weekend’s storm-related tragedy on Mount Desert Island’s Acadia National Park.
Truth is, many folks are drawn to crashing surf like moths to a flame. The problem is that few are familiar with rogue waves, those oversized, out-of-pattern swells that surprise and sweep everything in their path out to sea.
North Haven isn’t the most welcoming of islands, but it makes for a nice half-day trip (take the 9:30 Rockland boat and return on the 12:30, allowing about two hours on island.)
The ferry ride alone is worth the effort, especially once it enters the Fox Islands Thorofare, which flows between North Haven and Vinalhaven. It provides a good view of Vinalhaven’s Brown’s Head Light, and when I went on a Saturday morning, I was able to view kids racing sailboats (or trying to, it was at times rather amusing).
You won’t need more than an hour or so to wander North Haven’s downtown shops and galleries. Calderwood Hall is a must for fiber-arts fans and hobbiests; it carries gorgeous wool, some of it from island sheep. Upstairs is the Herb Parsons Gallery.
June Hopkins’ North Haven Gift Shop is another must-stop, especially for the gallery. And adjacent to it (actually connected by a elevated corridor) is June’s son Eric Hopkins’ gallery; his name recognition extends far beyond Maine’s shores (he paints those dreamy birds-eye views of the coast). He also has a gallery in Rockland.
Right near the ferry dock is the Waterman’s Community Center, constructed as a community gathering spot. Inside are a coffee bar with snacks, comfy seating, Wi-fi, and restrooms.
IF you arrive on a Saturday morning, you might be able to catch a bit of the Farmers Market, just a couple of blocks up from the ferry dock, but it does sell out quickly.
If I’d wanted to stay overnight, Nebo Lodge has nine rooms (some with shared baths), and dinner options expand to include Nebo and the waterfront Coal Wharf, next to Brown’s Boatshop.
And here’s a tip, while no official ferry operates between North Haven and Vinalhaven, you can arrange transport at J.O. Brown’s for $10 round trip.
It’s late August, which means all too soon, the birds will begin winging their ways to more southern climes. That means birdwatchers will begin flocking to Maine, hoping to sight a few species to add to their life lists. Helping them achieve that goal is the new Maine Birding Trail map and brochure, which details where to go and what you’ll see.
Maine is a major stop on the Eastern Flyway, and its deep forests, long coastline, hundreds of lakes, and flowing streams and rivers provide varied habitats for all manner of birds. The list of regular occurring birds now numbers over 330 species.
You can pick up the free map and guide at tourist information centers and selected state parks statewide.
Views! Views! Views! I spent the last few days at the Bluenose, in Bar Harbor. While there may be a few other places that can compete for such lofty, panoramic views over Bar Harbor, the Porcupine Islands, and Frenchman Bay, I don’t think any come close for comfort and service. This is a four-diamond property with all the whistles and bells that come with it.
Rooms are divided between two buildings, an older one with more modest accommodations and outside corridors, and the newer Mizzentop, which rises four stories and has rooms and suites with private balconies (and many with fireplaces, too). All have those gulls-eye views.
Downstairs in the Mizzentop is The Great Room, an expansive lounge where pianist Bill Trowell plays from 7 to 11 nightly. Anyone can attend these free concerts and savor the views along with the music. Although there’s a bar here, guests tend to honor Trowell with rapt attention, creating a concert hall atmosphere.
Side note: I’m guessing the folks sitting by the fireplace, which was cranking, must have been from Florida, Texas, or similar parts, given the temps and humidity during my visit.
The Eden Spa, at the Bluenose is a boutique day spa, which is open to the general public by reservation. Come for a massage (if you’re staying elsewhere, ask about discount coupons), and spend the afternoon enjoying the pool, whirlpool, steam room, and fitness center. And views. Stick around for a drink in The Great Room, then dinner.
There’s no restaurant at the Bluenose, but a short walk takes you to the glass-walled Looking Glass Restaurant at the adjacent sister property, Wonder View Inn and Suites. Previously known as the Rhinehart Pavillion, the Looking Glass is sporting a new look and new menus crafted by Chef Arturo Montes (if you’re from Bangor, you’re probably familiar with his cafe and catering services). Montes has an Old World style that favors sauces and strong flavors: his oysters Rockefeller are alone worth the visit. The menu ranges from lighter fare to lobster diners, and there’s a children’s menu, too. One caveat: desserts are pricey, at $9.95 each, but there’s ice cream, if you request it.
Here’s another idea: If you’re rising to catch sunrise from Cadillac, come here afterward for breakfast and continue to feast on the views.
By the way, if the rates at the Bluenose give pause, the Wonder View is a reasonable alternative with many of the advantages, but far fewer frills. It comprises four older motels tiered up the hill on estate-like grounds with grassy lawns and mature shade trees, and there’s an outdoor pool. You can always sample the good life by taking in that nightly concert at the Blue Nose.
Once a classic summer hotel, over the years, the Camden Harbour Inn had morphed into a B&B, sprouting wings and adding private baths, and gone Victorian to the hilt, with ruffles, flowers, and layers of clutter. Not anymore.
Partners Oscar Verest and Raymond Brunyanszki have infused this genteel lady with light, opened walls and windows, and brought it fully into the 21st century with vibrant color, comfy furnishings, and all the whistles and bells that a four-aiming-for-five diamond property requires. It is most unVictorian inside, yet there are faint echoes of that era. Those echoes, however, are dulled by the purples, silvers, and reds of the upholstery, the minimalist gas fireplace, and the Asian and African accents. I know, I know, it doesn’t sound soothing, but it is, and it works.
DINE
Now add a fabulous restaurant, Natalie‘s, decorated to evoke a Parisien brasserie on the Seine in the 1930s—think: stop red chairs and fringed lighting—again, it works.
Settle in for a leisurely meal with well-trained servers who are friendly but not gushy, in a setting that invites relaxation and is not the least bit stuffy. Dine inside or on the porch, with views of Camden Harbor from many tables. Dining here is splurge-worthy, but consider the lounge menu if your budget isn’t flush.
SLEEP
Every guestroom has a water view and a stocked mini-bar. Beds are comfy clouds of down; chocolates, a quote note, and slippers are provided at turndown. Some rooms have fireplaces or whirlpool tubs, some have balconies, and a few are suites with separate sitting areas. All echo the inn’s decorating theme: White walls offset by reds, silvers, and purples and accented with worldly art and antiques.
REVIVAL AND BREAKFAST
Now this is where the inn really adds value. Guests are welcomed with a glass of Prosecco. Snacks and treats are always available. And breakfast includes not only a European-style buffet with fruits, cereals, baked goods, meats, cheese, and even smoked salmon but also a choice-of-menu entree, and those choices include lobster benedict (oh so good!).
Need I say more? Dean’sSweets is hand-dipping Maine-grown, high-bush (the wild are too small) blueberries in 70-percent bittersweet chocolate. A toothpick of five is a mere 75¢, so it’s quite a reasonable indulgence. And they’re delicious. If I’d had a cooler with me, I’d have bought a bunch to bring home. Dean expects to have them through August, but quantities are limited.
God blessed way, way, way downeast Washington County with a land- and seascape that rivals almost anywhere in the world.
Craggy headlands crown rockbound shores; deep forests hide pristine lakes and rushing streams; finger-like peninsulas are pocketed with rough-and-tumble fishing villages; hidden coves cosset wooden wharves piled with traps, lines, and buoys.
Complementing it all are blueberry barrens, rare coastal peat bogs, stunted jack pines, soaring spruce, and gentle fields. It’s a land rich with wildlife, sealife, and nature-based recreation: hunting and fishing, hiking and mountain biking, puffin-sighting and whale-watching cruises, kayaking and canoeing.
What God didn’t provide are jobs.
Most folks piece together a living by the seasons: working in the woods, fishing, clamming, raking blueberries, tipping for or making wreaths, crafts, tourism. But this year has dealt them blow after blow.
• the recession (as if times weren’t hard enough)
• layoffs at the region’s paper mill and the ever-present threat of permanent closure
• low price on lobsters, which has caused many a lobsterman to pull his traps
• red tide, which has closed clamming flats
• rain and fog, which have wrecked havoc on just about everything (boating excursions canceled, campers heading home, farmers’ fields flooded, roads undermined)
And now comes the Valdensinia leaf spot, a fungus that’s threatening the wild blueberry crop.
Enough!
The stream of tourists has slowed to a trickle. I say, weather be damned. If you’re looking for a getaway that’s rich in natural experiences yet low in costs, head to Washington County. Sure it’s a bit of a drive; yes, you have to pass by a lot of other Maine treasures; but trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
But you might want to bring an umbrella and galoshes.
You have to trust me on this. I know the exterior of the Country Charm Restaurant, in Steuben, is rather forlorn, perhaps neglected looking is more apt. But this li’l spot has survived going on 15 years not on its good looks, nor its charms, but rather on its good home cooking and cheap prices.
When you’re this far down east, cooks aren’t judged on their burgers, roast chicken, or meatloaf (well, maybe a bit), but rather on their fried fish. And Country Charm earns accolades for it’s tender and flavorful renditions.
First you have to find it. It’s situated a couple of miles off Route 1 in Steuben (where’s Steuben, you ask? It’s between Gouldsboro and Milbridge, northeast of the Schoodic Peninsula). Country Charm is on the road leading to the Petit Manan section of the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge. If you’re heading down to the refuge to bird watch, hike, or simply pick blueberries, Country Charm makes a fine stop for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. But again, you need faith to guide you inside. Even though we love the joint, we gave each other the “are you sure about this” look before heading inside.
Inside, the pine-paneled front room has, well, a bit of country charm. It’s the place to sit if you want to jaw with the locals or hear the local gossip. The other dining rooms, added after a real kitchen replaced the original blue trailer (faith, remember faith), are purely functional.
We split an order of fish and chips. Now the fries are just that, fries. Crinkle cut and crispy, they were good but not extraordinary. And the tartar is those Kraft plastic tublets. The slaw was fine. The fish, however, was like biting into tender air: outside crispy and light, inside, moist and ultra fresh.
And cheap. It’s easy to get out of here for less than $10 per person. Far less, if you order burgers, which go for less than $4. If we’d arrived for breakfast, we could have had the Country Charm special: eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, and coffee for $4.95. Now that would power me through a few hikes in the refuge neighborhood.
Our waitress was friendly and efficient. The place was clean. And afterward we talked with the owner who said he’s ready to sell. What! “No, you can’t do that,” I said. He replied that a relative was likely taking it over, so nothing would change. Whew!
Country Charm currently opens at 5 a.m. Wednesday through Saturday, closing at 2 pm. Wednesday and 8 p.m. the rest of the week. It’s also open 5:30 to 7 p.m. Sunday.
Another must-stop in Steuben is Wildflour Bakery, on the Steuben loop off Route 1. (open Fridays and Saturday mornings only this season). Auto-mechanic-turned-baker Rich Chevalier turns out hearty, creative breads and sweets. Also on the loop is Shaw Place, for gorgeous sweaters and a barn full of antiques and what not. And just off it is where chainsaw carver Arthur Smith creates his detailed sculptures of animals. Not just the usual bear, but also eagles and great blue herons and even porcupines. When it comes to folk art, Arthur’s the real deal.
I recently wrote a story for the Boston Globe about my favorite Maine lobster shacks. For those who didn’t see it, I’ve added it as a page. Now I know there are plenty of other places, but these are my faves.
Great lobstermen versus loggers video/song: