It’s taken a few days, but when King Pine opened just after noon today, the wait was worth it. Lift crews had chiseled inches of ice off the quad, groomers had broken up and tilled the runs, sun was shining, sky deep blue–heaven amidst the ice-castle trees.
Spillway was closed due to ice problems, and the SuperQuad was only running at half speed, so we spent the first hour or so over on Whiffletree, putting ourselves in line for first tracks when King Pine opened. Smart move. Really, it’s amazing the turnaround in this area. Kudos to the liftees and groomers. With about an inch of fresh snow predicted tonight into tomorrow, it’s only going to get better and better.
Balnea. Go. That’s all you need to know (yes, the web site is in French, but an English translation is promised soon). This Nordic spa in Bromont, Quebec, is the ultimate in bliss–calming, spacious, oriented to the outside world and hip. Even if you don’t want to go outside (but hey, the deck is heated!) and soak in the outdoor hot tub then plunge in the outdoor cold pool and shower or, brrr, the stream, you can still experience the Nordic-style alternation of hot and cold, but indoors. Relax by the fire; better yet, in the theater watching a movie of the natural world. Splurge on a massage–trust me, it’ll be one of the best you ever had.
Visiting Banff or Lake Louise? The Fairmont Banff Springs and Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, those two storybook hotels, may be out of your budget for lodging, but it’s still possible to play prince or princess for the day.
At the Banff Springs, spend a half day or longer in the Willow Stream Spa. Day access is a whopping $79 (for nonguests, reservations required), so the longer you stay, the better it seems (it’s open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.). Of course, one dip in the progressive pools or the central mineral pool (be sure to lay your head back in the water—music is piped in), and you’ll think it’s worth every penny. At least I did. Head outside to the whirlpool, and don’t be surprised if a deer strolls by. As another woman said: “It doesn’t get any better than this!” Well, actually, it does, but that requires spending beaucoup bucks for a massage (rates begin at $165 for 60 minutes, plus gratuity and GST) or other service. Instead, add a mini-splurge for breakfast or lunch, perhaps even light dinner, in the spa. In between taking the waters or trips to the steam room or sauna (with a window overlooking the mountains), simply relax in your robe and slippers, munch on complementary fruit and perhaps cookies or muffins, and sip tea for big Ahhhh! factor. Before leaving, shower using the spa’s fancy-schmancy shampoo, conditioner and cleansers, then slather liberally with lotion. Now melt.
At the Chateau Lake Louise, make a reservation for high tea, served daily in the lakefront lounge from noon to 4 p.m. Yes, it’s pricey at $38, but the experience is priceless. Begin with a glass of Nino Franco Prosecco Rustico sparkling wine (or Moet & Chandon, for an additional $10), followed by a fresh fruit cocktail with cointreau syrup, then choose a tea and sit back and nibble your way through a three-tiered silver tray of finger sandwiches (English cucumber and boursin cheese, egg salad, smoked salmon and asparagus with mascarpone spread, curried chickent salad); to-die-for scones with Devonshire cream and strawberry jam; and a sampling of pasties and sweets. It’s so elegant and so self-indulgent and so satisfying.
The snow gods continued their assault on Sugarloaf. Every time I think the conditions can’t get any better, it snows again. Yesterday they blessed us with at least another 14 inches. This morning’s winds are blowing that about a bit, but the sun and blue sky are poking through the crowds, and early birds should have quite a day. Not me, I’m off to Banff/Lake Louise. More on that, later.
When entering the Haskell Free Library and Opera House, watch where you step. The historic structure straddles the border between Stanstead, Quebec, and Derby Line, Vt. Everyone enters through the front door, but look carefully. A red line runs diagonally through the reading room, making it possible to read across the lines. Tired of Vermont, step across the room and settle into a chair in Quebec.
Ditto for the upstairs opera house, where the border division consists of a line painted on the floor in the audience section. Locals joke that performers here always play to an international audience. The theater is a work of art in itself; ask in the library for a tour, available for a small fee. Better yet, time a visit to coincide with a show.
One caution: Be careful to park on the side of the border from which you came. From the U.S., park in the parking lot or in front of the library; from Canada, park on the side street or behind. It’s okay to cross the border on foot to enter the library.
This is my first destination trip to Manoir Hovey in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, but it certainly won’t be my last. After fewer than 12 hours here, I’m hooked. Hooked on the scenery–rolling farmlands, mountains and lakes. And hooked on the sights. And hooked on the food.
A Relais & Chateaux-member property, Manoir Hovey fronts on Lake Massawippi, in North Hatley. This an elegant country inn located about 30 minutes north of the Derby Line, Vt./Stanstead, Quebec border (I-91 to Canada 55) gets everything right.
History of Manoir Hovey
Built in 1900 by Henry Atkinson, owner of Georgia Power in Atlanta, Manoir Hovey, then called The Birches, was inspired by Mt. Vernon, George Washington’s Virginia estate. The Atkinson family was one of many southern families who began vacationing in the area in the era after the Civil War. Their home was one of the grandest, fronting right on the lake and having not only stables, coach house and servants quarters, but also a private nine-hole golf course.
In the 1950s, it became an inn, and Kathryn and Stephen Stafford have owned and operated it since 1979. The current name honors Colonial Ebenezer Hovey, a Loyalist who relocated here from New England after the Declaration of Independence.
Per person, per night rates are quite reasonable, given all that’s included: a fabulous dinner–more about that below, a full breakfast, a cozy room and gratuities, as well as seasonal recreation (snowshoeing, ice skating, boating, biking, pool, tennis), entertainment and at an additional fee, massage. And everything, from the service to the amenities (L’Occitane toiletries, Frette linens) is top notch.
Dining at Manoir Hovey
But if the accommodations sing, the dining is an aria. The wine list is actually a book, with a resident sommelier available to assist diners in pairing wines with food selections. Dinner begins with an amuse bouche, a teaser for the tastebuds, followed by an appetizer, entree and dessert. A seven-course tasting menu, with wine parings, is available at an additional fee. The dining room is divided into two areas: a winterized porch overlooking the lake and a main room anchored by a fireplace. Chairs are comfortable–vital for a relaxed, well-paced meal that easily stretches to two hours.
Our appetizers, tuna tartar and Quebec lamb with grapefruit and cilantro, were both so good that neither of us wanted to share. Portions were ample, but not oversized. For entrees, we ordered the Quebec lamb and milk-fed veal. Again, we savored every bite. Instead of dessert, we opted for the cheese plate choosing three from about 15 cheeses–sheep, cow and goat, most from Quebec. Our waiter, Marc, explained each. Also of note is the tea menu–a plus for tea lovers. The loose-leaf tea is served in a French press. If all this weren’t enough, a plate of “sweeties” was our parting kiss. Parfait!
What to see and do nearby
Both the Haskell Library and Opera House (left) and the Saint-Benoît-du-Lac monastery are nearby.
The Haskell Library and Opera House, in Stanstead, Vt., straddles the U.S./Canada border. A blue line painted on the floor serves as the border. While you may cross that line within the building, you must exit from the same door you entered.
Also nearby is Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Monastery. The monks at this Benedictine Monastery make cheeses, fruit compotes and spreads, and ciders, which they sell in the gift shop. Tours are offered, and spiritual walking paths lace the property. Try to time your visit to hear a Gregorian chant service.
The nearby Colby-Curtis House is on my list to return to for afternoon tea.
And, of course, there’s plentiful alpine skiing and snowboarding, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing. For a real treat, spend an afternoon at Balnea, a Nordic-style spa, about an hour away.
Somewhat ironically, I’m starting this Maine travel and more blog with postings on the more. Rain, fog and simply yucky weather: Not the best day to be traveling, but travel we must, cutting across Maine to northern New Hampshire and The Balsams. After one night there, we’re off to Quebec’s Eastern Townships, followed by Quebec City and skiing in eastern Quebec. Follow along, and I’ll dish up the skinny on what we find.
