We found all the comforts of home in a 24-yurt at Acadia Yurts glampground, located on five wooded acres near Acadia National Park. What’s a yurt, you ask? Think of it as a round, canvas, studio apartment with a conical roof rising to a circular ceiling window. After spending two nights here with two gal-pals, I’m a yurt convert.
Acadia Yurts glampground comprises six 24-foot yurts (two are pet-friendly), each sleeping four; one 30-foot yurt sleeping six; and two tiny houses ideal for couples. Guests have shared use of a communal fire-pit, three charcoal grills, picnic tables, two screen-houses with dining tables, and coin-op laundry. There’s also a wellness center with a yoga studio, infrared sauna, massage therapy, and a float tank. We didn’t get to use the center, so I can tell you only that it exists.
Frankly, I wasn’t sure what to expect upon arrival. But, our spacious, 24-foot yurt offered everything needed for a self-contained stay. Picture the circular floor plan as four wedges. Three-quarters are open living area. The well-stocked kitchen, with an electric stove and under-counter refrigerator, and a table with chairs, fills one quarter.
With a queen pull-out sofa, the adjacent living room quarter faces the bedroom quarter, which has a queen-size bed, a clothes rack, and storage shelves. And, we found enough space for the roll-away bed we’d requested. An air-conditioner/heat pump made controlling the yurt’s temperature easy.
The bathroom with a shower fills the fourth quarter. That’s in a separate room, accessed from the bedroom and backed against the kitchen wall.
Acadia Yurts’ owners have thought of everything. They’ve stocked the laundry shed with toys, games, books, DVDs (bring viewing device), kitchen and bath amenities, a lobster pot, and other items you might want or need.
Consider the 30-foot yurt if you want a full kitchen with a dishwasher, a separate bedroom, and a loft bedroom, as well as a comfier living area with more seating.
Acadia Yurts glampground make an ideal base for exploring Acadia National Park
Expect a low-key, family-friendly, relaxing atmosphere and fellow guests who are there to enjoy Acadia National Park. Acadia Yurts glampground’s location on the quiet side of the island means you’re away from most of the park’s iconic sights. But, you’re close to many of Acadia’s less-visited trails (I love the Perpendicular Trail’s granite stairs ascending Mansell Mountain—considered Acadia’s most constructed trail) as well as to Echo Lake.
In Southwest Harbor’s downtown, just down the road, you can hop a ferry to the islands, join a sea-kayaking excursion, buy groceries and souvenirs, and enjoy a choice of restaurants.
Acadia Yurts glampground rents the yurts by the week from June to mid October; early and late season require a three-night minimum. Check-in is contact-free, but the owners are always available via phone, should you have questions or a problem.
Maine’s female lobstermen share their lives in Pretty Rugged: True Stories from Women of the Sea, a coffee-table hardcover by local author and photographer Ali Farrell.
Mid-coast Maine resident Ali Farrell’s newest book, Pretty Rugged: True Stories from Women of the Sea, brings to life the heritage, lifestyles, backgrounds, and challenges of Maine’s female lobstermen. Farrell, a single parent of a 5-year-old boy and a 7-year-old girl, authored two other books and works as a professional photographer. She also donates time to United Fishermen Foundation, which supports fishermen and their families through education and advocacy.
Farrell lets the women featured in this 94-page, illustrated, hardcover book tell their own stories. The text shares their stories, but the photos bring them to life. Pretty Rugged is a fascinating porthole into the world of Maine’s female lobstermen. Many were introduced to the industries as infants; one has fished for nearly a century. The book’s title understates the grit, passion, and determination of these remarkable women.
Although I had planned to interview Farrell by phone, we switched to email to accommodate her two kids being sick and needing her attention.
What spiked your interest in sharing the stories of Maine’s female lobstermen?
Author Ali Farrell
When I was young, my father fished offshore and my mother produced and sold lobster tanks, so I’ve always felt a connection to the industry. My father had all kinds of stories from fishing off of Newfoundland, and after talking shop with my female fishermen buddies, I decided they deserved to tell their stories to the world. It is a very uncommon and unique lifestyle to learn about, especially for those who are from away.
How did you approach researching this book?
I started out by interviewing my friends in the industry. They would send me women who heard and wanted to be a part of it. I enlisted the help of the All Things Lobstering group on facebook, where people tagged females in the industry so I could reach out to them.
The process gave me some really awesome days out on the water. I got to go out on the boat with a lot of the women to photograph and interview them. A workday, for me, doesn’t get much better than being on the water with them, not having to do any of the hard work that they’re doing, hearing funny stories and inappropriate jokes, and when the work is finally done, cracking a beer for the steam back to the wharf.
Now a mother of two, Coast Guard veteran Captain Kelly Wallace began working on her fathers boat at age 5. By the time she was 9, she was working for herself on her own boat. The fifth-generation lobsterman grew up on Friendship’s wharves and boats, and she’s bringing up her two boys the same way. Credit Jennifer Bechard for Pretty Rugged
But I loved learning about who these women are beyond a fisherman. They are smart, driven and always searching to expand and upgrade their businesses. They are attorneys, state officials, they are diversifying their business in new ways and totally re-vamping the Maine fishing industry.
How did you select the women to feature?
I interviewed everyone who got back to me with the proper paperwork, which was 25 women. I used all of them aside from one, only because she is no longer fishing. But each and every one had interesting stories and backgrounds.
How long did this project take you
A living legend among female lobstermen, Capt. Virginia Oliver, of Spruce Head, began fishing 93 years ago. Now 100 years old, she still fishes three days each week. Credit Hannah McGowan for Pretty Rugged
Pretty Rugged took me about 2 years from the beginning to the publish date of 12/15/20. Covid put a real strain on this project. The book was set to be released Spring 2020, but when the first quarantine began, the seafood market completely shut down. It didn’t make sense for the fishermen to have their boats/traps in with no outlet for the seafood. We were able to make a significant impact with United Fishermen Foundation during that time, as we connected fishermen directly with consumers, so they had an outlet for their catch.
But, for the book, I couldn’t get out to take photos if they weren’t fishing! Once things did open back up, I still couldn’t connect with a few of the people in the book who were high risk. For example, Virginia Oliver who is 100 years old and still fishing. But they were people I admired and made an impact, so it was worth it for me to wait and document them properly.
Which stories surprised you?
I loved reading about the costs included in running a lobster boat and business. So many people think lobstermen are scam artists, hiking up the prices simply because they’re greedy I enjoyed going over Captain Heather Strout’s yearly costs, although the numbers could make anyone cringe.
“Fishing gear has come a long way in terms of ease of procedure, but in order to assume these luxuries, it costs a pretty penny. The modern traps run about $150 per trap. Multiply that by the eight hundred traps a seasoned fisherman is typically allowed in Maine, and that adds up quickly. The cost of traps doesn’t even scratch the surface when it comes to expenses in this business.” (See photo, below)
If you’re hauling eight hundred, a new boat could run you anywhere from $250,000 to $600,000. Heather has a 2017 36’ Wayne Beal with a tag of $250,000. Frank, Heather’s husband has a 2016 46’ Wayne Beal costing about $450,000. Heather’s oldest son, Spencer, custom designed a 44’ Calvin in 2018 and has about $600,000 into it. Other expenses creep up as well, and Heather also notes that her son’s offshore expenses are much higher, but you’re looking at about $267,750 in basic expenses as of 2020. So before you huff and puff about the price of lobster this summer, remember this list!”
Which stories are your favorites?
Maine’s female lobsterwomen juggle responsibilities of home and work, and many start their kids in the biz early. Here, one of Capt. Darlene Ames grandchildren rests on lines. Ames fishes out of Matinicus.
I love hearing about their childhood within a fishing family. So many of them had similar “daddy daycare” situations where they stayed in a playpen on the boat, napped through the hauls, and watched in amazement with every trap hauled to see what treasures would come up.
Once they were old enough to get to work, they all started immediately working the family business. They didn’t have a summer like most kids their age, as they worked hard, day in and day out, while the weather was good.
Do any female lobstermen you interviewed build their own boats or race them?
Capt. Heather Strout Thompson, right, is the reigning champion of the lobster racing boat circuit. Here she’s shown with her sister, Hilary, in one of the first boats they built: F/V Redneck Girls, a 33-foot Crowley Beal with a 365 Iveco engine. Strout who fishes from Harrington, is a fourth-generation lobsterman.
Heather Thompson is a lobster boat racing legend these days. She built her own beautiful boat and captains it with pride. Many of the people in the book have boats that have been in their family for generations. Some stripped the boats down the bare bones and rebuilt partially. One sure thing is, every single boat has a unique story behind it.
Many of the stories shared address contemporary problems Maine’s fishermen face. What do you hope readers learn from this?
Sarah Leiter is a marine biologist and a fisherman. She believes “… we can have fishing without endangering whales. I believe in science, AND I believe in the determination of working Maine men and women.” Leiter fishes from Mount Desert Island. Credit Hannah McGowan for Pretty Rugged
The fishing industry is an unknown for most people who are not closely connected to it by family or career. There is a lot going on with the fishing industry now, and we could really use some help from our communities in terms of advocating for the local fishermen. For instance, animal rights activists are trying to shut down lobstering for good, and we are rapidly losing our working waterfront, which is being replaced by hotels and tourist attractions, among other topics. If anyone is looking to get involved, I’d love to chat with them at Ali@UnitedFishermenFoundation.com!
You cover a lot of tragedies and near tragedies. Talk about the dangers of fishing.
Capt. Ariel Gilley, one of Maine’s many female lobstermen, says: “Things can go haywire in an instant. You never know what is going to happen — that is what makes being a fisherman so dangerous and yet thrilling at the same time.” Gilley, a Mount Desert Island native, says she began her lobster fishing career when at four days old: “… my baby swing speed was based on the weather.” Credit Hannah McGowan for Pretty Rugged
Commercial fishing is one of the most dangerous jobs in the United States. The fatality rate is 23 times higher than the U.S. average. Sinking vessels and falling from a fishing vessel are the top two causes of fatality.
Yet another danger lies in Maine’s unique coastline, loaded with jagged, rocky ledges scattered throughout the waters. The great state of Maine has 5,000 miles of coast if you include all the 3,166 offshore islands. About two-thirds of those islands are an acre or less, which leaves a lot of land lying right below the waterline at high tide. As you can imagine, with all these obstacles combined with mother nature’s grasp on the conditions, even the most seasoned captain can run aground, especially if cruising around outside of their normal fishing areas.
Within the normal day-to-day routines on the boat, injuries are quite common. Between weather, gear malfunctioning, gear shifting in rough conditions, and unexpected accidents, a lot can happen out on the water. Many fishermen in the book have stories covering these moments.
How do these female lobstermen balance fishing with life overall?
Capt. Leigh Farnsworth is one of many Maine lobstermen juggling life at sea with life at home. The mother of two boys fishes out of Corea. Credit Cheryl Clegg for Pretty Rugged
I think Captain Leigh Farnsworth explains it best. She loves having a career as a lobsterman because she’s able to be her own boss. As a mother of two boys, she’s able to schedule her trips out in order to be present for her family. It’s not easy to be a mother on the sea, though. Leigh thinks back to times like when she was out in the rocking waves trying to pump breastmilk and keep it cool until she got home.
“What makes being a mom and a lobsterman difficult is that you are spread so thin, trying to make a living at a very demanding, time-consuming job, and still take time to have fun experiences with the boys. But all the other stuff still has to get done—laundry, cleaning, bills, shopping, dinner, homework, getting the boys to practices and games. Most fishermen come home and their wives have taken care of those details, so they can just concentrate on their job. My husband helps where he can, but he works a full-time job. This is not a complaint, because I love my life and wouldn’t change it, but I’d like people to be aware of the mental load/physical load that a mom in this profession carries.” — Leigh Farnsworth
Talk about some of the other jobs Maine’s female lobstermen have.
Cheri Savage left a career as a high-level corporate executive to become a full-time commercial fisherman. She calls Metinic Island her home. Credit Jennifer Bechard for Pretty Rugged
I loved hearing about what the ladies do off the water. Within the book, you’ll see off-season accomplishments such as pilots, attorneys, marine biologists, state representatives, aquaculture farmers, construction workers, wharf management, substitute teacher, property management, sport coaches, marathon/triathlon participants and advisors on numerous councils.
What’s next for you?
I’m very excited for my next project which is about halfway complete. It is a children’s book about a little girl who grows up lobstering with her Dad in Maine. You will see real fishermen from the area portrayed in the book as well as many of the locations and sights we know and love. The book is called A Lobstergirl Can, and we hope to see it completed by this Spring/Summer (2021).
Details
Pretty Rugged: True Stories from Women of the Sea is available through Sea Street Publishing’s Facebook commerce shop. The hardcover coffee-table book is $32.99. Also available is the 2021 Women of the Sea calendar for $19.99. Note: Farrell is donating all proceeds from the calendar to the Maine Lobstermen’s Defense Fund.
Farrell also maintains a Facebook page for the book.
Capt. Lindsay McDaniels hauls a trap. Also known as Lobsta Lindsay, her route to becoming a lobsterman began in Minnesota, where she attended an environmental high school. That lead her to the College of the Atlantic in Bar Harbor. Now she fishes from Northeast Harbor, often accompanied by her mom, daughter, and a daughter’s friend.
In Classic Diners of Maine, author Sarah Walker Caron shares not only the history behind some of Maine’s favorite diners, but also shares some her favorite diner fare recipes.
If you love Maine diners, you’ll love Classic Diners of Maine by Sarah Walker Caron. This book, published by American Palate,not only shares the history behind Maine’s classic diners, but also quirky lore and a few surprises — such as discovering a diner that appears stick built actually is a Worcester Lunch Car. In addition to chapters on individual diners, Caron also includes a timeline and recipes.
Caron, senior features editor of the Bangor Daily News, also freelances as a writer, editor, and recipe developer. She’s written four cookbooks, and she maintains two blogs: Sarah’s Cucina Bella, dedicated to quick and easy home cooking, and The Lunch Box Ladies, covering all things related to packed lunches.
I recently chatted with Sarah about some of the stories she discovered while researching Maine’s diners.
Fun little book, why did you decide to write it?
The publisher reached out to me about the idea. Diners are so iconic, everyone has a diner story—the one they went to with friends after the play in high school, the one they went to with their family. Diners are iconic and tell so much about a place.
Diners have a fascinating history in Maine. Many were brought here for or started and built around a mill culture. They became the place to go for early meals after a shift, or a midday meal when leaving the factory. Maine is lucky to have diners that have stood in place for decades and decades.
How did you approach researching Classic Diners of Maine?
Sarah Walker Caron
Knowing the premise was diners, I began by writing a list of places that referred to themselves as diners. Others, such as Dysart’s, are diner-like, but it’s a truck stop. I eliminated those that didn’t self-identify as a diner. Some are obvious, classics that have been here since the 20s, 30s, or 40s. Then I filled it out with newer ones that also are iconic, for example, the Maine Diner; it’s actually only been around since the 1980s.
So many Maine diners are known for taking great pride in house-made items. Some diners didn’t make the cut. They were diners, some classic, but they didn’t quite have that emphasis of house made on anything. Some are beloved. Diners are about familiar food, familiar places, and family love, but I wanted to focus on bigger story of something special.
I live far north of where most of the classic diners are; there are only a few north of Augusta. I had to drive down on multiple occasions to visit them all. Some of the research I condensed into trips, where we visited as many diners as possible. My most memorable was with my two kids on Veterans Day weekend; we had seven diners on list and were there for two days. We made it to five or six. My kids loved this project. They enjoyed experiencing different places. We took turns ordering corned beef—I didn’t need to order, just have a bite or two. My son, who was 12-13 at time, rated the tap water at each—Becky’s was the best, with Miss Portland a close second.
The food! What I was really the impressed with at many Maine diners is the fresh and local food. Some have been sourcing from farms since long before fresh and local were buzzwords. The A1 Diner has a been farm-to table-diner since the late 1980s, when previous owners took over. They put a huge emphasis on sourcing from local farms. The Maine Diner has a garden that they source food from during the summer; it’s part of the establishment, but done quietly. Miss Portland makes its own corn beef hash; it’s their signature. A lot of others also are not opening a can, but I don’t want to disparage opening can and popping it on grill, that can be great, too.
What was your biggest discovery?
My very favorite was tracking down the actual history of the Brunswick Diner—It’s an absolutely fascinating history. Previous news stories called it a Worcester Dining Car that had been in Norway and came to Brunswick in the 1940s. When I went back through the records, I found that it was stick built in Norway to look like a dining car. I also discovered that there was a different Miss Brunswick down the street. The Norwago Diner became the current Brunswick Diner when the other one closed.
The Deluxe Diner in Rumford was a last minute addition to book. I came across the name when researching something, so I quickly drove to Rumford. Glad I did, because it’s a beautiful, beautiful Worcester Lunch Car, and it’s the second oldest in the state. The basement was hand dug in the 1920s. Now, it has a brick exterior with windows, but once you step inside, everything is classic.
Dave’s, in Gardiner, was another last-minute book addition with an interesting story. When you look at it, you don’t think of it as being built to be a diner, but it is a Valentine Diners double deluxe, built in Kansas and delivered to Gardiner.
So many have great backstories, but I really love the backstory of the Portland Diner, which had a number of troubled years. What I love is the gentleman who owns it now, an editor of Newsweek, was from Portland, and he decided on a whim to buy it and operate it—I have this image of him being in New York, rushing to his job, and buying a diner on a whim. He operates it, is committed to fresh and local food, and makes a great corned beef hash.
Let’s talk about corned beef hash, which you tasted in every diner. Is it the ultimate diner food?
It is the ultimate diner food, and it tells a lot about the diner. You can buy corned beef hash in every diner in Maine, but how do they do it—is it from scratch? do they put a great crust on canned? It’s a favorite of mine, and it’s also a quirky thing to taste in every Maine diner. Becky’s house-made corn beef hash is my favorite. It’s the perfect mix of corned beef to potatoes, and it has great flavor.
Traditional diners tend to be very tight spacewise, how are they faring during Covid-19?
When I started researching the book, almost 90 counted as diners, but there are definitely fewer now. The Miss Wiscasset is closed. Nicky’s Cruisin Diner in Bangor closed suddenly and the building was torn down.
Covid-19 has been especially hard on diners. They don’t have the space that most restaurants do. Most classic dining cars are not in a position to space out seating as it’s installed on diner floor. To operate in a safe way means allowing only a few people in at a time. Owners have to make very hard decisions: how to operate if operate at all.
The Deluxe Diner is too small; there are only 16 tight stools. It’s for sale, and I hope they find a buyer, because it’s such a wonderful, wonderful place. It’s weathered closures before and come out fine at the end. I’m very hopeful they’ll find the person who wants to steward that beautiful dinner into the future.
The A1 in Gardiner, which is larger than the Deluxe, is doing take-away and has outside seating. The Palace in Biddeford is doing takeout only. The Miss Portland has curbside pickup, outdoor dining in a heated tent and some indoor dining.
Several top my list. Nicky’s was the one I went to with my kids when first moved here. When I meet friends out of town, Becky’s is usually where we go. The Palace Diner with its small menu and very tight quarters has a wonderful atmosphere and food; I would go everyday if lived in southern Maine. The Miss Portland is a really great experience in original dining car. Martha’s, in Ellsworth, is the one I go to most often in normal times.
Anything you’d update or change?
There are definitely updates to be made, but this isn’t the right time, maybe after the pandemic, when things settle. For one thing, I need to move the ones that closed to a different section, since readers won’t be able to go. I also want to add the Farmington Diner, which acquired a new dining car, and I would love to include that in classic diner section. And I’m watching the A1 Diner. The MDOT is replacing bridge it stands on, and I would love to bring that story to completion. The state is doing an amazing job of working around the A1, which definitely the most unique location of any diner in Maine.
You included recipes for diner classics, but didn’t source them from diners – why?
Other books more dedicated to diner recipes have sourced from diners, and that’s a wonderful way to do things. But, I’m a home cook, translating a recipe from a chef in a diner to a home doesn’t always match up. They prepare food in bigger batches. It made sense to use my own recipes, which are designed for home use and tested, so you won’t end up with 6,000 pancakes.
Sarah shared her recipe for corned beef hash, her favorite diner food.
Inspired by the fine housemade corned beef hash at the Miss Portland Diner and Becky’s Diner, this recipe is loaded with big bits of shredded corned beef, potatoes and carrots. Delightful with fried or poached eggs, this is a satisfying breakfast.
2 tbsp olive oil, divided
1 small onion, quartered and sliced (about ¼-inch thick slices)
8 oz (1/2 lb) prepared corned beef, shredded (2 cups)
1 ¼ cups diced boiled potatoes
½ cup diced boiled carrots
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden — about 7-10 minutes.
Add 1 tbsp olive oil to the skillet along with the corned beef, potatoes and carrots. Stir. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring infrequently, for 8-10 minutes, until cooked through. There should be browned sections mixed in.
Cooking tip: This is best made with leftovers. When you are making corned beef, choose a slightly larger piece so you have about a half-pound leftover to make this too!
The über dog-friendly Inn by the Sea makes it easy to travel with your pooch. This luxury inn edging Crescent Beach State Park in Cape Elizabeth regularly notches top marks in the nation for luxury, experience, being green, and yes, dog-friendliness. Never content to rest on its many laurels, the inn regularly updates the property. And, it’s always looking or more ways to support not only the environment, but also the community.
I’ve visited this inn regularly since it opened on the site of the old Crescent Beach Inn decades ago. This time, I arrived with a few gal-pals with dogs in my Covid-19 bubble for a two-night stay. Our getaway coincided with the inn’s annual end-of-pool-season Pool Pawty.
What’s that, you ask? Every year, when the inn closes the pool to humans for the season, it opens it for the final week to dogs. And as Bo, our 1 3/4-year-old chocolate lab, discovered, it’s a blast. He and pals Lincoln (his brother, a black lab) and Wellie (a woodle a.k.a. silky haired wheaten/poodle) played hard.
Getting to know you… Clockwise from top left: Bo, Charlie, Wellie, Lincoln @Hilary Nangle
Joining them was day-pal Charlie (a shelter special) as well as other dogs who came to play and swim. I think at one point, there were eight dogs chasing each other around the pool, with a few of them actually going in for a swim.
Now, just ’cause the pool’s closed doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a dog-daze getaway at the Inn by the Sea. Many of the perks continue year round. For starters, dogs are pampered and loved by the staff. If you make a return visit, don’t be surprised to have staff welcome your dog first, and then you.
Dog-friendly rooms come with an L.L. Bean dog mat, a dog bowl, a dog towel, and a supply of clean-up bags. And, a special menu for dogs accompanies the set-up. Bo recommends the meat roaff, while Linc gives two paws up to the bird dog. When I asked Wellie for his opinion, he belched; another satisfied customer.
Dogs are welcome to dine with their humans on the outdoor deck with heat lamps, in the pub, and for this winter, due to Covid-19 social distancing, in another room set up for the purpose. All dining is by reservation due to Covid, too. Of course, room service is available. Due to Covid, the tray will be left outside of your door.
A boardwalk and path connect the inn to Crescent Beach, which is open to leashed dogs through the winter season. Dogs can be off leash during the off season on nearby Higgins Beach.
While none of the dogs swam, all loved splashing in the surf. The labs again demonstrated that all hope of retrieving was futile, although they shared playing with a stick.
When it’s time for walkies, options include the beach, a maintenance road that parallels the beach, trails in the woods edging the park’s southern border, and the Great Pond trail. Don’t forget to bring the bags supplied in the room for cleaning up after your dog.
Bo and his brother Lincoln play in the waves with a stick.
When I asked Bo what he thought of the Inn by the Sea, he replied: bark, awf, grrrrr, woof woof, bow Wow, grrr, woof woof. Let me help you with the translation: “YES! awesome, great, woot woot, Wow, great, woot woot!”
The Inn by the Sea caters to those seeking a luxury lodging experience: Think beach chic with an unpretentious fun and casual vibe. Our designated dog-friendly, two-bedroom Cove Suite had front and back entries. The front door opened to a private, sheltered patio edging the lawn. It would have been easy to spend hours relaxing here enjoying the dreamy ocean views.
The living area comprised an open kitchen (with everything but an oven), a dining area, and a seating area facing the gas fireplace. We made good use of the latter on the cool autumn evenings.
One bedroom had a king-size bed with seating area, the other two queens; both had large flat-screen TVs. At home, Bo sleeps in his crate. I wasn’t sure how he’d react to not being contained, so I brought extra sheets from home to protect the inn’s bedding, which proved to be a smart decision. We both slept well.
The bathroom offered a dual-sink marble vanity, a humongous soaking tub, and an oversized shower. I loved the environmentally Bee Kind toiletries and appreciated the comfy robes and slippers.
Other accommodations include traditional rooms, loft suites, and garden suites in the main inn as well as one- and two-bedroom beach suites; some of the latter have indoor-outdoor fireplaces.
In the inn’s Sea Glass restaurant, Chef Andrew Chadwick’s menus offers something for every appetite as well as options for those with dietary restrictions.
We bundled up and dined outside for breakfast daily and for dinner one night. If the weather hadn’t cooperated, we could have dined inside with dogs, either in the pub or in a conference room repurposed for dog-friendly, socially distanced dining. Do to limited tables, it’s wise to make advance reservations.
Breakfast might be my favorite meal, and I’m not sure which I enjoyed more, the decadent almond-stuffed French toast served with warm maple syrup or the frittata, made with roasted mushrooms, sausage, mozzarella cheese, and pesto.
For dinner, I opted for the fish of the day, a delicious halibut. My table mates raved about the chicken saltimbocca, the burger, and the confit lamb shoulder. We chased it with a shared apple crisp — with raspberries, strawberries, and ice cream, it was a unique twist on the classic, and we loved it.
The inn’s fitness center is open, but due to Covid, it’s limited it a max of four people at a time, so advance reservations are required. Likewise, the Spa is open by appointment Wednesday through Sunday, but the steam room and experience showers are closed.
If you’re looking for more info on why the Inn by the Sea makes an excellent escape in any season for those craving a safe getaway, check out my article on GettingOnTravel.
Acadia National Park is launching a pilot vehicle reservation system requiring reservations to enter the Sand Beach Entrance and Cadillac Summit Road, Oct. 1-18, 2020. Reservations cost $2/vehicle and are available only online at Recreation.gov. Visitors must also have a valid park pass, also available online.
“The majority of the park is open just as it has always been, including access to all of the carriage roads and all but a few hiking trails,” said Superintendent Kevin Schneider in a prepared statement. “If you want to visit the park’s most popular areas during peak times with your vehicle, you now have the opportunity to guarantee access with a reservation. If you walk or bike into a vehicle reservation area, reservations are not required.”
How Acadia National Park’s new reservation system works
The Sand Beach Entrance will require vehicle reservations from 7 am to 5 pm. The Cadillac Summit Road will require vehicle reservations from 4:30 am to 6:30 pm. All reservations provide a timed entry, but do not require a departure time. Reservations do not guarantee a specific parking space. If you leave the area with your vehicle, you need another reservation to re-enter.
In addition to having a valid entrance pass, reservations must be purchased for $2.00 each online; reservations will not be sold at the park.
The new system aims reduce to severe traffic and parking congestion so visitors can plan ahead and have a more enjoyable visit. The new system will be in place for the 2021 season.
Conducting a pilot of the vehicle reservation system in October will help Acadia National Park prepare for the 2021 season, when vehicle reservations will be required.
“Providing a positive visitor experience is in the best interest of the business community here in Bar Harbor and around Acadia,” said Alf Anderson, Executive Director of the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce. “Knowing in advance when a family will have a convenient place to park while they watch the sunrise on Cadillac Mountain, marvel at Thunder Hole, or play on Sand Beach will make their visit to Acadia National Park more relaxing and enjoyable.”
Vehicle reservations are one management action of the Acadia National Park Transportation Plan, which is intended to improve visitor safety, reduce traffic and parking congestion, and protect park resources and values. Other components of the plan include enhancing Island Explorer bus service and developing the Acadia Gateway Center transit hub in Trenton and a new visitor center and parking area in Hulls Cove.
“Friends of Acadia is very encouraged to see this first step toward a timed reservation system for vehicles to enter the busiest sites in the park during peak times,” said FOA president David MacDonald. “We have heard again and again from visitors about the frustration of being stuck in traffic or turned away when the Cadillac Summit Road or Sand Beach Entrance become gridlocked by over-crowding. Having the ability to pre-plan with a reservation, just as you would with a whale watch or a carriage ride or a dinner out, should provide more certainty and a better experience once in the park. ”
The Inn on the Harbor earns its name. The Stonington property hugs a thin strip of land between the road and the water, and its huge deck hangs over the harbor. Guestrooms and an apartment fill a handful of cheek-by-jowl downtown buildings.
The front-side streetscape only hints at its hidden treasure, but if you peer through an alley doorway, you’ll see the prize that awaits those staying here: Views over the working harbor and the islands to Isle au Haut, home to a remote section of Acadia National Park.
Pre Covid19, guests at the Inn on the Harbor would grab their continental breakfast in the lobby area, and enjoy it there, on the huge main deck, or in their rooms. This season, breakfast is being delivered to the rooms each morning. It includes a fresh baked good — one day we had mini banana breads, another fruit tarts, both delicious — along with fresh fruit and any requested beverages. The main deck is big enough to accommodate a good number of socially distanced guests.
Both harborside and streetside guestrooms, all named after windjammers, are available, and no two are alike. Harborside ones offer front-row seats on all the action in the harbor. Some rooms have private or shared decks. A few have fireplaces. All have refrigerators. Two are pet friendly (max 50 lbs, $25 fee/stay; be sure to read the policies section).
I’ve stayed in this property a few times over the years, most recently in American Eagle, a two-bedroom, second-floor apartment with a private entry and deck; perfect for social distancing. I especially love how comfortable this apartment is, but I’ve also enjoyed staying in different guestrooms; it’s a really nice property that’s neither fussy nor frilly. (See video below).
American Eagle’s spacious living area offers an L-shaped couch positioned to take advantage of the views. A woodstove promised coziness on cooler nights. It was warm and mostly foggy and drizzly when we were there, so no need for a fire nor really for the provided binoculars. In other years, I’ve watched windjammers sail into the harbor under full sail.
The well equipped kitchen is open to the living area. We enjoyed a dinner of halibut sourced from Coldwater Seafood, a great market on the edge of town that also sells meat, poultry, cheeses, and other deliciousness.
One bedroom has a queen bed, the other two twins; both have windows on the street side and share the full bathroom. Beds were very comfortable with nice linens. The only thing we thought odd was the artwork, which seemed out of place for a seaside inn in Maine.
The twin bedroom
Location, location
The Inn on the Harbor’s downtown location makes it easy to wander along the waterfront, browse the shops and galleries, and check out the restaurants. It’s a 10-minute walk to the Isle au Haut passenger ferry, which accesses a remote section of Acadia National Park that’s laced with hiking trails.
But one doesn’t need to go to the island to hike; Island Heritage Trust manages numerous preserves in Deer Isle with trails. Some offer water access for launching kayaks. And of course, there’s Nervous Nellie’s, an open-air theme park of the imagination.
Although we moseyed around and visited other attractions on Deer Isle, we pretty much hung out in the apartment. The fog and drizzle meant that the sea kayaks we’d brought with us never made it off the car top.
Then, just as we were preparing to leave, the sun cracked through the clouds. We’d already checked out, so we spent some time just enjoying the common deck before the clouds won and the sun disappeared again.
A tour of the American Eagle apartment at the Inn on the Harbor in Stonington, Deer Isle, Maine.
Innkeeper Karen Curtis don’t just talk green talk, she walks the green walk and shares it with guests at the Three Pines B&B. Karen and her husband, Ed, created this peaceful, off-the-grid, organic oasis on the eastern shore of Hancock, in Maine’s Acadia region.
The two-room B&B is located on 40 oceanfront acres fronting on Sullivan Harbor, just below the Reversing Falls. All but two acres are under a conservation easement with Frenchman Bay Conservancy, which means this special, private, and spectacular land will never be developed.
“My husband had taken an interest in solar in the late 1970s, and when we were ready to make a change from our engineer lives, he wanted to put that interest into practice,’’ Karen says. Ed did all the planning to make the house as energy efficient as possible. The design is passive solar; photovoltaics provide electricity; appliances are primarily propane-powered; satellite technology operates the TV and Internet systems; a masonry heater provides warmth in winter.
For the Curtises, it’s not just about being green, but also about sustainable living. They raise rare-breed sheep for wool and chickens for eggs; grow organic vegetables and berries; and maintain a peach and apple orchard. Karen makes cheese, yogurt, jams and jellies, and other treats.
“We get people drawn to various aspects of our project here,’’ Karen says. “Some have no idea we’re off the grid, they’re coming strictly for location. Some are very interested in the farming aspects. Some come because we’re vegetarians. Some people never even know we’re off the grid, if the subject doesn’t come up. Unless they happen to ask, it’s completely transparent.’’
I can attest to that after spending a blissful night here (amazing star gazing) in early June. I only wished we’d had the time to launch the inn’s tandem kayak from the shore front or had brought bicycles to pedal the old railway bed from the Tidal Falls Preserve to Gull Rock Pottery (with a waterfront sculpture garden; definitely worth visiting).
Guests stay in one of two rooms in a separate, two-story, post-and-beam building that’s attached to the main house by a deck. Both rooms are comfortably furnished. Each has a queen bed; a roll-away bed is available for the downstairs room. Although there are TVs, they’re only for watching movies, and a wide range of DVDs are available.
For the best views, opt for the upstairs room, accessed via an exterior stairway. Palladian-style windows front and back overlook the water on one side and the woodlands on the other.
The ground-floor room, with glimpses of the water through the shoreline trees, opens off the water-view deck, providing the quickest access to the waterfront and to breakfast.
Karen serves a full, vegetarian breakfast. Ours began with yogurt and fruit parfaits accompanied by delicious scones. Now, even though I’m not a huge kale fan, I loved the scrambled eggs (from the chickens) with cheddar cheese and fresh kale (from the garden).
Why stay in Hancock?
Although Hancock seems far removed from civilization, it’s an ideal location of exploring the Acadia region east of Ellsworth; that includes the section of Acadia National Park on the Schoodic Peninsula. Artist studios and galleries pepper the region and land preserves offer plentiful hiking opportunities, from easy to challenging.
Despite the rural feel of the area, there’s a good choice of quality restaurants. These include the Crocker House Country Inn, Chipper’s, and Iron Bound, all in Hancock, as well as wide-ranging take-outs, such as YU Takeout for Korean and Sullivan Harbor Smokehouse, both in Hancock, and Tracey’s Seafood in Sullivan. Add in Gouldsboro and the Schoodic Peninsula, and the options expand.
Frankly, if you’re M.O. these days is to avoid crowds, the Three Pines B&B is an ideal choice. Check in here, and you may not want to check out, ever.
When the genteel Asticou Inn & Restaurant in Northeast Harbor reopens for the 2020 season, Chef Emily Damon will be in the kitchen. Damon, a Northeast Harbor native, has deep ties not only to the village but also to the inn. She grew up in a hospitality family and earned her degree from the California Culinary Academy. Over the years, Chef Damon has gained a loyal following on Mount Desert Island.
The inn’s restaurant will open with a curbside and delivery menu (posted below), offered 5-8 p.m. beginning Friday, May 22. Delivery will be available in Northeast Harbor and Seal Harbor.
Management of the property changed this season as The Acadia Corp. did not renew its contract. Over the three years it operated the Asticou Inn, it gained a following for tea and popovers on the porch overlooking Northeast Harbor. According to a social media post, that tradition will remain using the original Jordan Pond house popover recipe.
The inn is located across the street from the Asticou Azalea Garden. It’s a pleasant stroll from Thuya Garden, a semiformal English herbaceous garden. And, it’s a short drive from the Rockefeller Garden, making is an especially popular destination for garden lovers.
Dreamy, oceanfront Aragosta, Deer Isle, woos dining and overnight guests with its quiet, away-from-it-all location and eco-conscious ways, seducing them with an easy and comfy cottage style and nationally recognized, locally sourced, scratch-made fare. The latter earned chef/owner Devin Finigan semifinalist status in the 2020 James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Northeast Award .
I first visited this property on Deer Isle, connected by bridge and causeway to the tip of the Blue Hill peninsula, when it was known as the Goose Cove Lodge. I fell in love with it. Cottages pepper lush, mossy spruce-dominated woodlands, and guest suites open off the lodge’s deck. Almost all accommodations have views over the lawn, rosa rugosa, and sand beach out to open ocean. Eagles nest on nearby islands, including the adjacent Barred Island preserve. And the open, bi-level dining room and lounge is designed so that every table takes in that eye-candy view.
Finigan restored the shine to this property. Cottages and guestrooms are decorated with a light hand in an easy, breezy, rustic style that gives the views center stage. Most have a deck, and all cottages have kitchenettes.
My husband and I stayed in the Elm Cottage, which is closest to the waterfront. As soon as I saw it, I knew I wouldn’t want to leave. Like the other accommodations, it is exactly what I think of when dreaming about an oceanfront Maine cottage. Sure, it had the requisite deck overlooking the water, but I couldn’t resist the lure of the two Adirondack chairs set just so on the patch of lawn. Heaven!
I managed to peek into a few of the suites. Like the cottages, they’re decorated in a contemporary cottage style emphasizing comfort and view. Each of these spacious suites opens onto a deck that wraps around two sides of the lodge.
Every table in Aragosta’s bi-level dining room has a view. @Hilary Nangle
Nationally recognized dining at Aragosta, Deer Isle
I was first introduced to Chef Finigan during at stay at the Blue Hill Inn. I still drool when thinking about her lobster ravioli. When she moved to an harborfront property in Stonington, I made a point of enjoying lunch there when in the area. It never disappointed. Now she has a setting that matches her talents and style.
Breakfast is included for overnight guests, but my first meal was dinner on the day we arrived. The menu changes seasonally, featuring what’s fresh and local. At first it was hard to focus on the menu, as the views competed, albeit unsuccessfully, with the amuse plate. But when our appetizers arrived, the sunset couldn’t complete with the views or tastes on our plates. The tempura-fried peekytoe “crab rangoon” squash blossom, served with charred lemon aioli, pickled red onion, and micro pea shoots, and the Stonington lobster dumplings, with chef’s garden garlic, brodo, and micro greens, stole the show.
Aragosta’s menu changes frequently to reflect what’s fresh and local, but it might include surf ‘n’ turf. @Hilary Nangle
And those were only the opening act. My Stonington lobster casoncelli awakened my memories of Finigan’s skills. Served with Fine Line Farm micro greens, beurre blanc, and gremolata, it was sublime. My husband’s wood-roasted surf n turf, a Misty Brook Farm filet mignon paired with Stonington lobster, scallop, pomme puree, chanterelle-caramelized onion butter took away his conversational abilities, leaving only happy mmmms.
We were still under dinner’s spell when we returned for breakfast the next morning. Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite warm enough to sit outside on the expansive deck. No matter, the views were the same from inside. I opted for an omelet, my husband went for the blueberry pancakes. Absolutely delicious and a fine way to fuel a hike in the Barred Island Preserve.
Aragosta is well sited for exploring Deer Isle: visiting galleries and artist studios, browsing shops, visiting Nervous Nellie’s, hiking the many trails managed by the Island Heritage Trust, joining a guided sea kayaking day trip, or taking the day boat to Isle au Haut to explore Acadia National Park’s trails. But honestly, it’s hard to leave this property.
All I wanted to do was sit in those Adirondack chairs and watch the tide turn.
Maine’s Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument is now an International Dark Sky Sanctuary. The Sanctuary designation, the second of its kind in the National Park Service, distinguishes the monument for the exceptional quality of its naturally dark night skies. Additionally, Katahdin Woods and Waters is the first International Dark Sky Place certified in Maine and in New England.
“Designation as a Dark Sky Sanctuary recognizes this incredible resource that does not exist in many places today in this country, much less anywhere else in New England,” says Katahdin Woods and Waters Superintendent Tim Hudson. “Experiencing the night skies here will take you back in time to the night skies first experienced by the Wabanaki 11,000 years ago and the many people who have followed in their footsteps since, including John James Audubon, Henry David Thoreau, Theodore Roosevelt, and others.”
Maine’s Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, established Aug. 24, 2016, protects the north Maine woods’ extraordinary natural and cultural landscape. It includes the mountains, woodlands, and waters east of Baxter State Park. This is where the East Branch of the Penobscot River and its tributaries, including the Wassataquoik Stream and the Seboeis River, run freely.
Since the glaciers retreated 12,000 years ago, these waterways and associated resources—the scenery, geology, flora and fauna, night skies, and more—have attracted people to this area. In addition, the area’s awe-inspiring night skies glitter with stars and planets and occasional displays of the aurora borealis, also known as the northern lights.
The International Dark-Sky Association established the International Dark Sky Places Program in 2001. The program encourages protecting natural dark night skies around the globe through responsible lighting policies, public outreach, and education.
Ways to experience Maine’s International Dark Sky Sanctuary
The annual Stars Over Katahdin event celebrates this designation. Hosted by the Friends of Katahdin Woods and Waters, it lets to learn about the monument’s dark skies. Additionally, it highlights the continued efforts of the National Park Service and the International Dark-Sky Association to preserve natural night skies.
In addition to this annual event, visitors to the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument can independently experience some of the darkest skies in the Northeastern United States. They may measure night sky brightness and contribute to community science projects through the Globe at Night project.
