Love Maine lobster? According to a Maine lobsterman I just interviewed, due to coronavirus, the influx of Canadian lobsters (if you check the bands on those in the supermarket, you’ll see many are from Canada), and the downturn in exports, Maine lobstermen are hurting. Some who fish year round are pulling traps ’cause it’s not worth it.
Combine this with new gear regulations, climate change, and the usual expenses (cost of traps, lines, and other gear as well as bait and fuel), and, well, you get the picture.
You can help. If you’re on the coast, head to your local wharf and buy it direct. If you’re not on the coast, order direct from a Maine lobster company. Many Maine lobster shacks will ship lobster to your home or business.
Hey, what better way to make these dark days better than a lobster feed with family and friends?
One more thing. Please share this with the lobster lovers you love.
Envision a handsome yet rustic (in the L. L. Bean style) sporting lodge crafted with timbers and stone. Step inside to the baronial Great Room, bookended by fieldstone fireplaces and rising to a cathedral ceiling. Two gently curving stairways ascend from one end to a second-floor balcony wrapping around the Great Room. Welcome to Sky Lodge, in Moose River, Maine.
Now, put this 7,500-square-foot lodge, along with a newer annex with motel-style rooms, cabins, and a few larger houses, on 150 acres of land roughly 15 mile south of the Canadian border. Add outbuildings housing a fitness center and two small museums: one filled with antique vehicles and the other with model railroads. Lace the property with hiking, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling trails. Did I mention the outdoor pool? Or the restaurant?
Sounds awesome, doesn’t it? So much so that I’ve stayed twice since Unity College received the Sky Lodge property as a gift from the Couri Foundation in March 2018. Last summer I stayed in one of the lodge guestrooms. And, earlier this winter, I celebrated the New Year with friends in a cabin.
But those weren’t my first visits. Back in the early days of Maine’s Kennebec whitewater rafting biz, guides and guests would don dressier duds, apply make-up, shave, and splurge on a fancy meal in the lodge’s restaurant.
Built as a private, luxury hunting and fishing retreat by a New York businessman, it debuted in 1929 as the Maw Paw Lodge. In the 1940s, two former World War II pilots purchased it, added a runway, and renamed it Sky Lodge.
Over the next decades, the property passed through a few hands. And, in the late 1980s, it went up for auction, but didn’t sell. Enter John and Elaine Couri, who purchased the Sky Lodge property in 1988 and launched the nonprofit Couri Foundation to operate it.
Prior to donating the property to Unity College, the Couris restored the main lodge. Although many of the nine guestrooms (each with private bath) as well as the games room have fireplaces, only one is in working order. That’s one of the two in the Great Room, making it an especially inviting place to relax. UPDATE: Lodge rooms are no longer available for private booking. The lodge only rents as a whole.
The games room, which opens off the lobby, has pool, shuffleboard, and foosball tables. Also opening off the lobby are the restaurant, a TV/library lounge with full bar opening to a summer deck, and an office, as well as two guestrooms. Upstairs are seven additional bedrooms. These include the two-bedroom Sutro Suite, accented with two fireplaces, one in living room and the other in the bathroom.
Although attached to the main lodge, guests staying in the Annex do not have direct entry to it. Each of these pine-walled, motel-style guestrooms has two double beds; one has a small kitchen.
Also on the property, but across Route 201, are three newer cabins. Each has a living area with woodstove and kitchenette, bathroom with shower, and one bedroom downstairs. Upstairs are two loft bedrooms connected via a walkway.
Three multi-bedroom rental houses round out the lodging options.
Pets are welcome in many of the accommodations, but not in the main lodge.
A light continental breakfast is included for guests, although other heftier options are available for a fee.
I adore the main lodge, especially that Great Room. Rugs define two distinct seating areas, each with mismatched couches, chair, and tables. If staying in winter, aim for first dibs on the one by the working fireplace. Even if you miss out on that, you can enjoy the blaze from afar from the other seating area.
Because it’s surrounded by rooms on three sides and with a porch on the front side, the Great Room doesn’t get direct sunlight. But, some light filters in through the front side windows on the upper floor and lamps keep it bright.
Trophy animals, including a wolf and a black bear, old tools, wildlife art works, and intriguing bric-a-brac make it fun to explore the public areas. Be sure to page through the old albums shelved by the check-in desk. They’re filled with vintage photos depicting the construction and history of the lodge.
If doors are open, you can peek into unoccupied guestrooms, but you might want to slip off your shoes before doing so to avoid making more work for the housekeepers.
Staying at Sky Lodge
As noted above, Sky Lodge offers a variety of lodging options. I experienced two: a guestroom in the main lodge and a cabin.
On my first visit, I stayed with a friend in Sally Mountain, which opens off lodge’s Great Room. This spacious yet cozy corner room overlooks the back lawn and woods through two big windows.
The room features two full beds, an easy chair with ottoman, a large oblong covered basket at the end of each bed, and a window bench pocketed between two built-in bookcases. As with all lodge rooms, it has a private bathroom. In this case, it was a tiny shower bath.
Log walls, a hardwood floor with area rugs, a huge stone fireplace, floral bedding, and a painting of running deer give it a country feel. The provided bathrobes are a nice touch. We didn’t find a noise a problem, but then we were the only guests that night.
A cabin
Three of us stayed in Cedar, one of three cabins grouped on the west side of Route 201. At first sight, I was concerned about noise from the road as well as from the neighboring cabin, but neither was an issue.
A kitchenette, with small fridge, microwave, stovetop, and way too little counter space occupied one corner of the main room.We later found a countertop convection oven in a cabinet. We were thankful it was winter, as we could keep some perishables (as well as wine) in coolers outside.
Sure, it was cozy, but we loved it. It’s an easy day trip to Quebec City, if you’re so inclined. We went as far as St. Georges-de-Beauce, about a 45-minute drive each way, to Les Peres Nature. I love this combo grocery/restaurant/butcher/bakery filled with delicious foods. We stocked up on Quebec cheeses and other goodies. In summer, you can make a picnic off breads, cheeses, charcuterie, and fruit and enjoy it at picnic tables edging the Chaudiere River, across from the market.
Depending upon the season, you can snowshoe, ski, and snowmobile from the front door; workout in the fitness room; swim in the pool and play shuffleboard outside; and make s’mores in the firepit.
Year round, you can visit the two museums, and I highly recommend making time to do so. View antique vehicles, sleighs, snowmobiles, model airplanes, and even a full-size taxidermied moose in the car museum. The collection includes a 1931 Model A Ford woody, a 1982 gull-wing DeLorean coupe, a six-cylinder 1948 Plymouth coupe, a 1965 Ford Mustang convertible, a 1921 Packard Holdbrook town car, and a 1931 Ford Model A pick-up.
Railway artifacts and ephemera as well as models fill the Station House, but the big attraction is the working model railway. The multi-level scene stretches from New York to Maine and multiple trains to-and-fro through it. It’s not just the trains, though, it’s the detail that fascinates. Check out the drive-in theater, the amusement park, a man fishing, another mowing the lawn, yet another painting a house. Animation brings it all to life, as well as a construction site. Daylight cedes to nightfall and signage illuminates.
Lakes and waterways, forests, and mountain attract outdoor enthusiasts for hiking, mountain biking, water sports, and fishing. It’s especially popular with snowmobilers in winter. Scenic flights and golf are minutes away. And of course, Quebec beckons, too.
Escape crowds on a scenic Maine loop through the Maine Highlands and Aroostook County. This drive through northern Maine not only takes you away from coastal crowds, it also traverses four Maine Scenic Byways and passes through fields and forests and by lakes and mountains. In autumn, brilliant reds, golds, oranges and greens color the landscape—and you’ll have it all to yourself.
While you can make this loop in one very long day, I advise slowing down and savoring it over at least two, but ideally three days or longer. I’ve included recommendations for places to stay and eat along the way. You can travel clockwise or counter-clockwise, using I-95 (or even better, Route 2) to close the loop. Below is clockwise. (updated June 2016 2026)
Begin your scenic Maine loop in the Millinocket area. Once paper mills dominated the economy here, now Millinocket is an outdoor recreation hub. It’s the gateway to Baxter State Park, home to Katahdin, as well as the Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument’s Visitor Center.
Outdoor recreation defines this region: Hike in the parks, book a whitewater rafting trip on the Penobscot River with New England Outdoor Center, hire a guide for a fishing trip, paddle to the Ambajejus Boom House, or simply take it all in from a lakeside porch or aboard a pontoon boat.
Route 11 noodles through the eastern parts of the Maine Highlands, and the section from Medway to Patten doubles as a section of the Katahdin Woods & Waters Maine Scenic Byway. The other section travels between Medway and Baxter’s Togue Pond Gate.
For a long but rewarding day, consider looping from Millinocket through Baxter and back via the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway and Baxter State Park Road. You might even detour into the national monument (bring water and food). Drive very carefully, keeping an eye out for deer, moose, and even black bears.
Note:
• The roads in Baxter State Park and the national monument are gravel.
• RVs, motorcycles, and pets are not permitted in Baxter.
Worth the splurge: For stunning views over water to Katahdin, make reservations at the Five Lakes Lodge, a comfy log-and-stone bed-and-breakfast on a spit of land extending into South Twin Lake.
Prefer a cabin: New England Outdoor Center‘s Twin Pine campus, which edges Millinocket Lake backed by Katahdin, offers cabins and guest houses in various sizes. Or stay near Baxter’s northern entrance and the northern section of the national monument at Mount Chase Lodge, on the shores of Upper Shin Pond, off Rte. 159 northwest of Patten.
Notable nibbles and bites
For a delicious adventure, consider a Fly n’ Dine package with Katahdin Air. You’ll be flown round-trip via float plane to a remote sporting camp for dinner. En route, enjoy the elevated wilderness views and perhaps spot moose or other wildlife.
From Patten, head north on Route 11, parts of which double as the Fish River Maine Scenic Byway. This route ebbs and flows through forests and farmlands, over mountains and by lakes, offering a few pull-outs, rest areas with picnic tables and toilets, and sigh-inducing views along the way. Consider detouring to Portage Lake or Eagle Lake, which is almost surrounded by public lands.
In Fort Kent, the Fish River Scenic Byway intersects with theSt. John River Valley Cultural and Scenic Byway. This journey through Acadian, Scots-Irish, and Québécois heritage follows the St. John River from Dickey, just west of Allagash, to Van Buren. It also includes a spur inland to St. Agatha and Sinclair on Long Lake.
Route 1 begins in Fort Kent, which honors this with a monument dedicated to The First Mile. In nearby Madawaska, the Four Corners Park attracts long-distance motorcyclists pinging the four corners of the country or the state.
Quite a few heritage sites pepper this section of this scenic Maine route. The National Historic Landmark Fort Kent Blockhouse, built in 1839, is a remnant of the (bloodless) Aroostook War, a border dispute with Canada that began in 1784 and wasn’t settled until 1842.
The St. Agatha Historical House and Preservation Center, overlooking Long Lake, is one of the best small-town local history museums I’ve ever visited.
Acadian heritage is especially strong in the St. John Valley. The Mount Carmel Museum and Cultural Center in Grand Isle, a former Catholic church, now displays Acadian antiques and artifacts and often hosts concerts. In St. David’s, stop by the Tante Blanche Museum, honoring an Acadian heroine. Just below it on the river is the Acadian Cross, marking the 1785 landing site of Acadians expelled by the British from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. (Others went to Louisiana, where they’re known as Cajuns). Tour through 19 antique and replica buildings at the Acadian Village in Keegan (see photo with Evangeline, above).
Built as a convent and later renovated as a nursing home, the Inn of Acadia, in Madawaska, sat empty for a decade before morphing into a chic and contemporary boutique inn. Choose from rooms, suites, and options with kitchens. Rates include a continental breakfast buffet augmented with fruit-filled ployes (crepes-style Acadian buckwheat pancakes) and drizzled with maple syrup. Trust me: You want one.
Breakfast is served in the hotel’s Voyageur Lounge, which also offers a wide-ranging dinner menu at reasonable prices. I can vouch for the duck wings and the ahi tuna salad.
From Van Buren, Rte. 1 heads south, passing through Caribou and Presque Isle, two corners of the Potato Triangle (Fort Fairfield is the third). Visit in mid-July, when the potato blossoms bloom, and varied shades of pink and lavender, along with yellow and white, color the farmlands. Many farms have honor-shacks, where you can purchase a bag or two of new or other potatoes.
Amish communities pepper this region. Don’t be surprised to see Share the Road signs depicting a horse-and-buggy or a roller-skier, in addition to the usual snowmobile and moose warnings.
Detour inland and end up on Maine’s Swedish Colony. In 1870, William Widgery Thomas established a model agricultural community here with 50 Swedes. Their descendants populate the region today. While Midsommar—traditionally celebrated with food, a Maypole, and dancing—is the liveliest time to visit, historical sights and heritage museums are open sporadically throughout the summer season. For more Swedish delights, pop into Monika’s Imports, a Scandinavian specialty store in Caribou.
Honestly, the best way to appreciate this region is to mosey the byways. Detour off Route 1, and you’ll be rewarded with Amish settlements and open ridges with forever views. Do pay attention to where you are, though. One time, while exploring gravel roads west of Rte. 1, I came upon a “Welcome to Canada” sign. Whoops! Didn’t have my passport with me, or I might have ventured further.
Speaking of venturing farther: This scenic Maine loop includes interplanetary travel along Rte. 1 between Topsfield and Houlton. The three-dimensional Maine Solar System Model comprises the sun, planets, dwarf planets, and the moons for Earth, Saturn, Jupiter, and Pluto. You can see all the major planets along this nearly 100-mile stretch. One mile is equal to the distance between Earth and the sun, and the speed of light is 7mph. Find tiny Pluto in the lobby of the Houlton Visitor Center.
During the months before Pearl Harbor, planes were known to land at Houlton International Airport and then be towed by tractor across the border to Canada for takeoff on the highway. @Hilary Nangle
Although there’s not much to see these days, Houlton International Airport, established in 1941 as Houlton Army Air Base, has an interesting history. Neutrality laws prevented U.S.-built planes from flying directly from the United States to Britain. During the months before Pearl Harbor, planes were known to land in Houlton and then be towed by tractor across the border to Canada for takeoff on the highway.
In 1944, part of the base became Camp Houlton, Maine’s largest POW camp. Nearly 4,000 German prisoners lived here in the barracks. They labored in area lumber camps, canneries, potato farms, and paper mills.
Where to Sleep
In Caribou, book a room at the Old Iron Inn Bed & Breakfast, a 1913 arts-and-crafts-style house where innkeeper Kate McCartney provides insider tips and a great breakfast. Her husband, Dr. Kevin McCartney, a geology professor at UMPI and genius behind the Maine Solar System model, can also tell you the history behind each of the hundreds of old irons displayed within the house.
Notable nibbles and bites
You’ll find Amish bakeries here and there; pop in for good homemade breads, jams, cookies, doughnuts, etc.
South of Houlton, an 8-mile section of Rte. 1, between Orient and Danforth, doubles as the Million Dollar View Maine Scenic Byway. The aptly named road offers two scenic pullouts. One looks east over the Chiputneticook chain of lakes (also known as the East Grand Lakes) into Canada. The other offers views of Katahdin and beyond to the Western Mountains. The latter is especially gorgeous at sunset. I imagine the former is equally gorgeous at sunrise, but I can’t vouch for that.
Guests at First Settler’s Lodge, sited along the Million Dollar View Scenic Byway, can enjoy views eastward over the lakes and west to Katahdin from the spacious log lodge. Breakfast is included; dinner is available; and pets are a possibility for a fee.
While you can close the loop through the Maine Highlands and Aroostook County via I-95, there are more scenic options. I love Rte. 2 between Smyrna and Lincoln. This far-less-traveled route includes farmlands, Amish settlements, and dreamy views of Katahdin and beyond. IF you’re hungry, it’s worth the time to detour to Sherman for a meal at Salted Butter Farm.
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For more information: See my Moon-series Maine guidebook, published by Avalon Travel.
I can’t think of a better way to enjoy a summer escape than staying aboard the Floating Nomad houseboat for a few days. That’s just what I did a few weeks ago with two friends. Already we’re pining to return.
NOTE: Unless captioned otherwise, images were taken at Floating Nomad’s original homeport in Rangeley. It’s now in its third home on Junior Lake in Maine’s West Grand Lakes.
My friend Martha found this houseboat and suggested (maybe insisted is a better word) that we book it for a couple of nights. Along with another friend, Leah, we did just that.
The houseboat, one of two marketed under the name Just Add Water Floating Camps, is owned and operated by Rheanna, an Annapolis grad, former Navy helicopter pilot, certified yoga instructor, and Registered Maine Guide.
Rheanna found and, with a professional boatbuilder, rebuilt another boat to create what’s now called the Floating Nomad. They did a fabulous job creating an inviting space with must-have conveniences done in contemporary style.
We entered through the bow deck, where there’s a gas grill, then passed through a sliding door into the houseboat. Living space is one big, long room with three distinct sections.
In the front are the captain’s wheel, a bluetooth speaker, a couch that morphs into a single bed, and a ship’s ladder to a loft with a double mattress.
That gives way to the central part of the houseboat, with the kitchen (sink, fridge, stove) on one side and entry to the airplane-sized bathroom (toilet, sink, shower) on the other.
On the stern end is another couch that doubles as a single bed and counter space with two seats. A door exits to the aft deck.
Amenities make life aboard easy: The kitchen offers all the must-haves and a few extras. While one could drink from the taps, there’s plentiful fresh bottled water available. Linens, towels, blankets, etc. are provided.
Other perks include heat, electricity for chargers, yoga mats, books, cards, and that bluetooth speaker.
Climb out of the lake after a swim or into the canoe for a paddle via the swim ladder on the aft deck. Or climb up to the rooftop stern deck, with Adirondack-style chairs and a firepit (s’mores anyone?). Continue from there to the hidden prize: The upper bow deck, with two chaise lounges.
In short: Plenty of room to spread out. If we had gotten tired of each other, we could have retreated to different parts of the houseboat.
We chose not. Although we could have paddled the canoe or jumped in the lake for a swim, we opted to read, relax, knit, play Phase 10 and Boggle, and simply chill. We also brought enough food aboard to keep us feasting for days, along with enough wine to accompany those feasts.
In between, we enjoyed the lake views, which were especially gorgeous at sunset. Probably also at sunrise, but none of us rose early enough to see that.
Despite our inactivity, the time went by all-too-quickly. When Rheanna texted us about returning to pilot the boat back to the dock, we told her we weren’t leaving, ever.
A second and smaller houseboat, Roam, also is available for rental. @Hilary Nangle
On the way back to the dock, Rheanna told us about her second houseboat, Roam. This one is a little smaller than the Floating Nomad. It has a kitchenette, bathroom, and sleeps up to three.
The Floating Nomad rents for $350/night; Roam is priced at $275/night. Rates include linens, towels, canoe, safety equipment, and much more. Both houseboats are made available first to those who rent Otyokwa first, with any open dates remaining available to others.
Take a video tour of the Floating Nomad (note: taken when it was on Rangeley Lake, it’s now on Pemaquid Pond, s the scenery is a bit different, but the houseboat is the same).
It’s easy to travel car free between Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick, Maine, via the Amtrak Downeaster train and the Greater Portland Metro Breez bus, thanks to a new, coordinated schedule.
Both the Breez bus and the Downeaster train dock at the Portland Transportation Center. The bus also stops at Monument Square in downtown Portland and the Yarmouth Town Hall. The train stops in downtown Freeport and downtown Brunswick.
Passengers can make connections to other Maine destinations, including Augusta, Bangor, and many coastal towns via Concord Coach Lines bus routes, and connecting regional buses as well as to Vinalhaven and North Haven islands by ferry.
The Amtrak Downeaster, operating between Boston’s North Station and Portland, also stops in Old Orchard (seasonal), Saco, and Wells, Maine.
Check out my Bus or Train page for details on traveling between Portland from Boston.
Maine lobster is world-renowned, and you can enjoy it a gazillion ways.
Of course, eating it is the biggie (there are so many options—baked, broiled, boiled, stuffed, and even fried—for starters), but don’t stop there.
Attend a festival celebrating the bugs (as nicknamed by lobstermen), watch races between lobster boats (fierce competition), or cruise aboard one and learn about and perhaps take part in how the tasty crustaceans are caught. Better yet, do it all.
Now I think the best way to enjoy lobster is in the rough at a lobster shack. You can get down and dirty and dig in with abandon, savoring the succulent meat and enjoying the experience of eating outdoors on a wharf or seaside deck. As you eat, watch lobstermen unload their catches or bait and fuel their boats, and listen to seagulls beg. Even better, at many, you can bring all the necessary go-withs, from tablecloths and flowers to wine and cheese. Here are my favorite Maine coast lobster shacks.
Maine has three lobster festivals that are worth planning a visit around.
Maine Lobster Festival
The big kahoona is the Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. This isn’t just a chow-down but a full-blown festival, with crownings and parades, fun races and games, exhibits, arts and crafts, music, and, of course, lobster (we’re talking more than 17,000 pounds served). Plan well ahead; it’ll take a miracle to arrive in town and find an empty hotel/motel room or even a campsite. Always the first weekend in August.
Winter Harbor Lobster Festival
Far smaller is the Winter Harbor Lobster Festival, in Winter Harbor, on the Schoodic Peninsula and near the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park. An event highlight is the annual lobsterboat race, with 13 classes rated by size and power. Other activities include a road race, a large craft fair, a parade, and, of course, a chow-down lobstah dinner with all the trimmings. The festival is free; there’s a charge for dinner. It is always the second Saturday in August.
Frenchboro Lobster Festival
Tiniest, but perhaps biggest in local pride, is the annual Frenchboro Lobster Festival, a one-day fund-raising shindig that requires a special ferry boat run from Bass Harbor, on Mount Desert Island. Frenchoboro, by the way, is great to visit anytime. Always the second Saturday in August.
Maine lobsterboat races
Maine Lobster Boat Races are a tradition along the coast.
NASCAR, schmasscar, in Maine, real men and women race lobsterboats, replacing the chug-a-lug engines with souped-up vroooommmers! Competitors take these races very seriously, and there are classes rated by size and power.
You’ve eaten lobster, celebrated lobster, watched the boats in the harbor, now it’s time to hop aboard one and take part in the catch. In the process, you’ll learn all sorts of lobster trivia, facts, and lore. When you’re ready for Lobster 101, consider cruising on one of these excursion boats.
Lucky Catch
Join Capt. Tom Martin aboard the Lucky Catch, operating from Portland’s waterfront, and you might even catch your own dinner. You can purchase any lobsters caught during the cruise at boat price and have them cooked at a nearby restaurant. Even if you don’t catch any, you’ll fill up on lobster trivia and have a blast.
The Luluoperates from Bar Harbor. Like the others, you’ll learn The Truth about lobsters, every little detail (including lobster boxing) you may (or may not) wish to know. The captain hauls a few lobster pots and demonstrates how to use a carapace to measure a lobster to determine whether it’s legal—a keepah! Kids love this trip, but adults are equally enthralled.
Tough assignment, staying at the Portland Harbor Hotel and checking out the executive suites. Bottom line, if you can swing it, book one.
Now Maine isn’t a state that’s big on the luxury schtick. No Four Seasons, no Ritz Carlton. Sure, there are some boutique B&Bs and inns that do fussy well, but this was the first Portland hotel to really offer the red carpet treatment.
Can’t think of another place where you can practically swim (yes, I mean swim, it’s humongous) in the whirlpool tub (supposedly for two, but heck, you could have a pool party in it) while watching the flames flicker in the fireplace AND view the flat screen simultaneously. Separate shower is equally oversized, with two shower heads and a bench. And two sinks. And, well, let’s just say the bathroom is larger than many a starter New York apartment.
Not much not to like here. If I have to draw upon my inner curmudgeon, well, the fake apples should be real and there should be more outlets near the desk. I had to unplug the phone to plug in my laptop. It was either that or the light, and I’ve got this thing about seeing what I’m typing. Like I said, minor complaints. I mentioned the outlet to the manager, and I have no doubt that will be corrected.
Cool, contemporary decor
Decor in the executive suites is modernesque, with beige tones, cool artwork, and hardwood floors with area rugs; a nice change from the usual hotel vibe. Furniture is comfy, especially the bed. Nice white duvet, of course, and nightly turndown with robes, slippers, and chocolate lobsters: Gotta like that.
And downstairs in this section of the hotel is the updated fitness room. Greatly expanded (thank you!), with nice aerobic equipment (with TVs and iPod docks) and weights. No stretching area, but hey, can’t have everything. Big restrooms with showers provide a place for guests who stay beyond checkout to change before the long slog home.
The rest of the hotel recently completed an update that I really like. Guest and public rooms now have a chic and fun nautical vibe in red, white, and blue. During my 2018 visit, I stayed in a Jacuzzi suite with this new decor. In suite amenities included a sitting area, a small fridge, robes, a big Jacuzzi tub, and a separate shower.
The lounge flows into the Blue Fin North Atlantic Seafood restaurant, which opens to a central garden courtyard with a firepit. In January, the annual Ice Bar here always draws a crowed.
Hotel amenities
A certified concierge is on staff.
Professional nannies are available.
Bicycles and Wifi are complementary.
Each floor has a station where Starbucks coffee and tea are available each morning.
Some rooms are pet friendly ($25/pet/night).
Room-service is available at all hours.
Valet parking is $22/night.
Note: Since I originally posted this review in 2009, a number of upscale hotels have opened in in the city, including The Press Hotel.
I love Maine in winter. I embrace the quietude, love playing outdoors in the snow, and I especially love the special events that celebrate the season. Here are two of my favorites—and you don’t have to love the outdoors to enjoy them.
Participate in or simply watch the annual U.S. National Toboggan Championships in Camden.
Register now, if you want to fly down the 440-foot wooden chute at the Camden Snow Bowl as a competitor in the U.S. National Tobogganing Championships, Feb. 8-10. The icy chute shoots sleds out on frozen Hosmer Pond at the base of the town-owned winter recreation area (with alpine skiing and snowboarding).
Up to 400 teams from around the world are expected at this annual event, which is equally fun to watch. Participants race down the chute twice during Saturday’s qualifications; the best move on to Sunday’s finals. Most teams dress in costumes, and there’s even a costume parade, noon on Saturday, complete with judges and trophies.
There’s no fee to watch the races, but there’s a parking fee for the Snow Bowl lot. Save bucks by taking the shuttle buses running from the village green downtown.
MTM TIPS: Consider making a day of it by pairing watching the races with skiing or riding at the Snow Bowl, where you can see out over island-salted Penobscot Bay from the summit. On Friday, 11am-4pm, the chute is open to the public for a modest per-person fee, rental toboggans are available.
Paint the Town Red, a romance-themed event sponsored by the Kennebunkport Resort Collection, brightens Kennebunkport in February, with events scheduled almost every Saturday. Here’s a sampling of the 2019 offerings:
• Feb. 2: Frosted! A Freezing Good Time Ice Bar at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, 7-10pm ($55).
• Feb. 9: Drinks through the Decades at The Burleigh, an interactive mixology class, 1-3pm ($40)
• Feb. 16: Wine and Valentines at The Burleigh, three wine tastings paired with hors d’oeuvres, 1-3pm ($20pp or $35couple)
• Feb. 23: Oyster Shucking Class at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, shuck a half-dozen oysters, wine tasting, and snacks, 1-3pm, $45pp
A Red Plate Dinner Series is also part of the event:
• Feb. 16: Sushi-Making Demo & Dinner at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, interactive demonstration with light bites and sake tasting followed by a three-course meal, 4-6pm, $50pp
• Feb. 9: Earth Pop-Up at Ocean, a first taste of the 2019 Earth menu, welcome cocktails and apps, followed by a three-course dinner with wine pairings, 6-9pm (from $125)
• Feb. 14: Valentines Day Dinner at The Burleigh and the Boathouse Waterfront Hotel
Of course, two-night themed lodging packages are available from $479, and all kinds of attractive add-ons are offered from Dom Perignon served in Waterford flutes to a custom engagement ring. Shuttle transportation is available from Portland International Jetport for $40 pp each way.
MTM TIPS: Bring snowshoes or cross-country skis to enjoy nearby preserves, such as The Wells Reserve at Laudholm Farm. Bring mad money to spend at local shops, many of which will have sales in progress.
Brighten the season with Maine’s Gardens Aglow, the annual holiday light extravaganza at the Maine Coastal Botanical Gardens in Boothbay.
If this vibrant illumination isn’t enough magic for the evening, Boothbay Lights doubles the pleasure with more lights, as well as activities and festivities in Boothbay, Boothbay Harbor, and throughout the peninsula.
New England’s biggest and brightest light show, Gardens Aglow illuminates the upper gardens and woodlands with more than 650,000 lights. If you’ve visited the gardens in summer, experiencing them in winter is special treat. It appears that every twig, branch, and limb shines, with shimmering reflections enhancing the effect. The children’s garden, garden of the five senses, woodlands, arbor garden, great lawn, and kitchen garden all bloom with lights rather than blossoms.
Dress warmly and sip hot chocolate while you meander. Enjoy grab-and-go fare from The Market and Snack Shack. Don’t miss the family oriented activities in the Bosarge Family Education Center. You might finish the holiday shopping in the Gardenshop. There’s even live music on select Thursday evenings.
Signature events for Boothbay Lights include: North Pole Express, Festival of Trees, Harbor Lights Festival, Dough Ball & Gingerbread Spectacular, and Holiday Sparkle Fireworks. Shuttles operate between Boothbay Harbor and the gardens. If you’re planning on enjoying dinner in the area, it’s wise to make reservations. Find out what’s open, here.
Maine’s Gardens Aglow continues Thursday-Sunday, 4-9pm, through Dec. 31 (closed Dec. 24). Tickets, available online, are $14 adults, $12 seniors, $8 kids ages 3-17, or $36/family comprising two adults and two kids (tix cost more on site). For info on shuttles and carpooling, check the website. Wheelchairs and scooters are available.
Ahhhh! The Artists’ Island. Take a walk about Monhegan Island, and it’s easy to see how it earned that moniker. Everywhere you look is a scene waiting to be painted. And indeed, there’s also an artist painting it.
Monhegan Island, Maine, has attracted drifters and dreamers since the early 1600s. Year round, it’s home to about 60 hearty souls who mostly make their living off the sea. In summer, the population ebbs and flows with the daily boats that ferry passengers from Boothbay Harbor, New Harbor, and Port Clyde.
It’s a perfect one-day escape, but to truly understand Monhegan’s lure, plan to spend a night or two. That allows time to visit the museum and galleries, perhaps climb the light tower, enjoy the ’round-the-island cruise, and hike a few of the island trails.
If you’re a fan of American art, you’ll recognize the scenes: the red house perched on the harbor’s edge, stark Manana Island, the soaring cliffs of White and Black Heads, the D. S. Sheridan’s rusting hull, the light station at the island’s summit. Monhegan’s seascapes, landscapes and village scapes are all eerily familiar because icons of American art been painted them.
Among the big-name artists who’ve spent time on Monhegan Island are Robert Henri, Rockwell Kent, George Bellows, Edward Hopper, James Fitzgerald, Alice Kent Stoddard, Reuben Tam, William Kienbusch, three generations of Wyeths, and scores of others.
Preserving Monhegan Island’s history and art heritage
The former lighthouse-keeper’s house the Monhegan Museum of Art and History’s impressive collection. It’s well worth the effort to climb Lighthouse Hill to view the exhibits, artifacts, and paintings inside. Among the subjects: the Hermit of Manana, lobstering, and island flora and fauna.
The adjacent, replica assistant keeper’s house is a purpose-built gallery showcasing Monhegan-related art. One interesting tidbit about the museum: It shows only the work of deceased artists.
The light tower is also part of the museum’s Lighthouse Hill complex. It’s open on a set schedule during the museum’s season (late June through September). Climb it for a gull’s- eye view over the village, harbor, and Manana Island out to the open ocean.
Plan on also visiting the Kent-Fitzgerald House and Studio, both affiliated with the museum. The duo, part of the Fitzgerald Legacy, are listed on the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Historic Artist’s Homes and Studios Program. (Note: This joint Monhegan property joined the Winslow Homer Studio in Prouts Neck as the second Maine listing out of about 30 nationwide).
Contemporary artists can be viewed painting all around the island, and about two dozen maintain open studios on a rotating schedule. You can pick up a schedule at the Rope Shed, the island’s version of a daily newspaper.
Other art venues include The Island Inn, the Trailing Yew, and the Lupine Gallery.
Monhegan Island: happy place for hikers and birders
Hikers set out from the village to explore the 12 miles of trails lacing Monhegan Island. @Hilary Nangle
Beyond artists and dreamers, Monhegan lures hikers and birders. Although only 1.7 miles long and barely a half-mile wide, 17 numbered and mapped trails it, providing about 12 miles of hiking.
Trails edge the cliffs, pass over hills, bisect fields, and shimmy through Cathedral Woods (famous also for its fairy houses). The views are stunning, and for birders, especially during spring and fall flyovers, Monhegan is without par, as it’s on the Eastern Flyway migration route.
One of the joys of Mohegan is that it’s easy to lose any crowds and find a place, a rock, ledge, or clifftop perch, where you can meditate, gaze into the future, or contemplate your existence.
Car free is care free
Three passenger ferries service Monhegan: The Balmy Days departs Boothbay Harbor; the Hardy Boat departs New Harbor, and Monhegan Boat Line leaves from Port Clyde. A fleet of trucks from island accommodations greets arriving boats to ferry luggage to each property.
Year-rounders own the only other vehicles on the island. Some of the summer residents use golf carts. In any case, there’s only about a half mile of dirt road.
Note: Monhegan isn’t a good choice for those with mobility issues. It’s not easy to navigate the rough, hilly roads.
Start with the obvious, The Barnicle, on the left as you disembark from the ferry. It’s a great spot for baked goods, coffee, tea, and light fare. It also sells wine and beer. You’ll see a handful of tables on the beach.
The Monhegan Store sells groceries, wine, and beer and makes to-go breakfast and regular sandwiches to order.
The Barnicle, behind The Monhegan House, offers great New York-style pizza by the slab or pie, as well as sandwiches and salads. It also sells wine and beer, and it has a few picnic tables, too.
If you’re looking for a sit-down meal, the dining rooms at the Island Inn, Monhegan House, and The Trailing Yew are open for dinner. The Island Inn also serves breakfast and lunch.
My favorite place is the Fish House on Fish House Beach, a lobster-doesn’t-get-much-rougher shack also selling chowders and other seafood. Order inside, then snag a picnic table or seat on the beach. Heaven! (It’s one of my favorite Maine lobster shacks)
Don’t miss Monhegan Brewery with its outdoor Trap Room. Also, look for java from Monhegan Coffee Roasters.
The Island Inn provides the finest accommodations (if you’re persnickety, reserve an ocean-view room or suite here). Don’t expect fancy; the inn is comfy, and all but a few rooms have private baths. It also has a dining room open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and it has fabulous views from the front rooms and the porch, although I think the Adirondack-style chairs on the lawn are irresistible.
Both the Monhegan House and the Trailing Yew are more rustic; most rooms in each share baths. Both have a long history of sheltering artists.
The Shining Sail offers guest rooms and efficiencies and also acts as an agent for rental cottages. I’ve stayed at most of these properties, and each has its charms.
If you’re a fan of American art, you’ll recognize the scenes: the red house perched on the harbor’s edge, stark Manana Island, the soaring cliffs of White and Black Heads, the D. S. Sheridan’s rusting hull, the light station at the island’s summit. Monhegan’s seascapes, landscapes and village scapes are all eerily familiar because icons of American art been painted them.
