Love Maine lobster? According to a Maine lobsterman I just interviewed, due to coronavirus, the influx of Canadian lobsters (if you check the bands on those in the supermarket, you’ll see many are from Canada), and the downturn in exports, Maine lobstermen are hurting. Some who fish year round are pulling traps ’cause it’s not worth it.
Combine this with new gear regulations, climate change, and the usual expenses (cost of traps, lines, and other gear as well as bait and fuel), and, well, you get the picture.
You can help. If you’re on the coast, head to your local wharf and buy it direct. If you’re not on the coast, order direct from a Maine lobster company. Many Maine lobster shacks will ship lobster to your home or business.
Hey, what better way to make these dark days better than a lobster feed with family and friends?
One more thing. Please share this with the lobster lovers you love.
Envision a handsome yet rustic (in the L. L. Bean style) sporting lodge crafted with timbers and stone. Step inside to the baronial Great Room, bookended by fieldstone fireplaces and rising to a cathedral ceiling. Two gently curving stairways ascend from one end to a second-floor balcony wrapping around the Great Room. Welcome to Sky Lodge, in Moose River, Maine.
Now, put this 7,500-square-foot lodge, along with a newer annex with motel-style rooms, cabins, and a few larger houses, on 150 acres of land roughly 15 mile south of the Canadian border. Add outbuildings housing a fitness center and two small museums: one filled with antique vehicles and the other with model railroads. Lace the property with hiking, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling trails. Did I mention the outdoor pool? Or the restaurant?
Sounds awesome, doesn’t it? So much so that I’ve stayed twice since Unity College received the Sky Lodge property as a gift from the Couri Foundation in March 2018. Last summer I stayed in one of the lodge guestrooms. And, earlier this winter, I celebrated the New Year with friends in a cabin.
But those weren’t my first visits. Back in the early days of Maine’s Kennebec whitewater rafting biz, guides and guests would don dressier duds, apply make-up, shave, and splurge on a fancy meal in the lodge’s restaurant.
Built as a private, luxury hunting and fishing retreat by a New York businessman, it debuted in 1929 as the Maw Paw Lodge. In the 1940s, two former World War II pilots purchased it, added a runway, and renamed it Sky Lodge.
Over the next decades, the property passed through a few hands. And, in the late 1980s, it went up for auction, but didn’t sell. Enter John and Elaine Couri, who purchased the Sky Lodge property in 1988 and launched the nonprofit Couri Foundation to operate it.
Prior to donating the property to Unity College, the Couris restored the main lodge. Although many of the nine guestrooms (each with private bath) as well as the games room have fireplaces, only one is in working order. That’s one of the two in the Great Room, making it an especially inviting place to relax. UPDATE: Lodge rooms are no longer available for private booking. The lodge only rents as a whole.
The games room, which opens off the lobby, has pool, shuffleboard, and foosball tables. Also opening off the lobby are the restaurant, a TV/library lounge with full bar opening to a summer deck, and an office, as well as two guestrooms. Upstairs are seven additional bedrooms. These include the two-bedroom Sutro Suite, accented with two fireplaces, one in living room and the other in the bathroom.
Although attached to the main lodge, guests staying in the Annex do not have direct entry to it. Each of these pine-walled, motel-style guestrooms has two double beds; one has a small kitchen.
Also on the property, but across Route 201, are three newer cabins. Each has a living area with woodstove and kitchenette, bathroom with shower, and one bedroom downstairs. Upstairs are two loft bedrooms connected via a walkway.
Three multi-bedroom rental houses round out the lodging options.
Pets are welcome in many of the accommodations, but not in the main lodge.
A light continental breakfast is included for guests, although other heftier options are available for a fee.
I adore the main lodge, especially that Great Room. Rugs define two distinct seating areas, each with mismatched couches, chair, and tables. If staying in winter, aim for first dibs on the one by the working fireplace. Even if you miss out on that, you can enjoy the blaze from afar from the other seating area.
Because it’s surrounded by rooms on three sides and with a porch on the front side, the Great Room doesn’t get direct sunlight. But, some light filters in through the front side windows on the upper floor and lamps keep it bright.
Trophy animals, including a wolf and a black bear, old tools, wildlife art works, and intriguing bric-a-brac make it fun to explore the public areas. Be sure to page through the old albums shelved by the check-in desk. They’re filled with vintage photos depicting the construction and history of the lodge.
If doors are open, you can peek into unoccupied guestrooms, but you might want to slip off your shoes before doing so to avoid making more work for the housekeepers.
Staying at Sky Lodge
As noted above, Sky Lodge offers a variety of lodging options. I experienced two: a guestroom in the main lodge and a cabin.
On my first visit, I stayed with a friend in Sally Mountain, which opens off lodge’s Great Room. This spacious yet cozy corner room overlooks the back lawn and woods through two big windows.
The room features two full beds, an easy chair with ottoman, a large oblong covered basket at the end of each bed, and a window bench pocketed between two built-in bookcases. As with all lodge rooms, it has a private bathroom. In this case, it was a tiny shower bath.
Log walls, a hardwood floor with area rugs, a huge stone fireplace, floral bedding, and a painting of running deer give it a country feel. The provided bathrobes are a nice touch. We didn’t find a noise a problem, but then we were the only guests that night.
A cabin
Three of us stayed in Cedar, one of three cabins grouped on the west side of Route 201. At first sight, I was concerned about noise from the road as well as from the neighboring cabin, but neither was an issue.
A kitchenette, with small fridge, microwave, stovetop, and way too little counter space occupied one corner of the main room.We later found a countertop convection oven in a cabinet. We were thankful it was winter, as we could keep some perishables (as well as wine) in coolers outside.
Sure, it was cozy, but we loved it. It’s an easy day trip to Quebec City, if you’re so inclined. We went as far as St. Georges-de-Beauce, about a 45-minute drive each way, to Les Peres Nature. I love this combo grocery/restaurant/butcher/bakery filled with delicious foods. We stocked up on Quebec cheeses and other goodies. In summer, you can make a picnic off breads, cheeses, charcuterie, and fruit and enjoy it at picnic tables edging the Chaudiere River, across from the market.
Depending upon the season, you can snowshoe, ski, and snowmobile from the front door; workout in the fitness room; swim in the pool and play shuffleboard outside; and make s’mores in the firepit.
Year round, you can visit the two museums, and I highly recommend making time to do so. View antique vehicles, sleighs, snowmobiles, model airplanes, and even a full-size taxidermied moose in the car museum. The collection includes a 1931 Model A Ford woody, a 1982 gull-wing DeLorean coupe, a six-cylinder 1948 Plymouth coupe, a 1965 Ford Mustang convertible, a 1921 Packard Holdbrook town car, and a 1931 Ford Model A pick-up.
Railway artifacts and ephemera as well as models fill the Station House, but the big attraction is the working model railway. The multi-level scene stretches from New York to Maine and multiple trains to-and-fro through it. It’s not just the trains, though, it’s the detail that fascinates. Check out the drive-in theater, the amusement park, a man fishing, another mowing the lawn, yet another painting a house. Animation brings it all to life, as well as a construction site. Daylight cedes to nightfall and signage illuminates.
Lakes and waterways, forests, and mountain attract outdoor enthusiasts for hiking, mountain biking, water sports, and fishing. It’s especially popular with snowmobilers in winter. Scenic flights and golf are minutes away. And of course, Quebec beckons, too.
Here’s a super deal for families, but hurry because this Amtrak Downeaster flash sale is very limited. For each adult ticket sold, one child ages 2-12 rides for free on any Amtrak Downeaster trains operating on Monday, Aug. 26, Wednesday, Aug. 28, and Friday, Aug. 30, 2019 only. Tickets must be purchased by Sunday, Aug. 11, 2019.
Take it to Freeport for back-to-school shopping, to Old Orchard for some beach time, to Portland or Boston for a little city fun: so many options, so little time.
The Amtrak Downeaster operates five daily round-trips between Boston, Brunswick, Maine, and points in between: Woburn, Haverhill, Exeter, Durham, Dover, Wells, Saco, Old Orchard Beach, Portland and Freeport.
Crystal, Cirque du Soleil’s first ice show, shimmers and shines. When you take one of the world’s foremost athletic troupes and put it on ice, the result is equally magical, enthralling, spectacular, amazing, and, at times, jaw-dropping. I loved it.
When Crystal falls through fractured ice, it results in a fractured personality. In the watery depths, she evolves from a young girl who’s a misfit to one who dives into her imagination and discovers her inner strengths. At least that’s my understanding. Honestly, while the story is uplifting, that’s not what wowed me.
Crystal combines athletic strength with dancing grace. It’s hockey and hip hop, flying Walendas and Bolshoi ballet, roller derby and dancing queen, snowboard cross and ski jumping, all in two all-too-quick hours. Now add live fiddle, guitar, and piano. And a clown, who enjoys throwing snowballs into the audience. And razzle-dazzle lights and sound.
On a hot August night, it’s an ideal way to chill. Despite the seemingly tropical temps last night, I brought a lightweight hoodie and a rain jacket, and wore them both inside the arena.
Escape crowds on a scenic Maine loop through the Maine Highlands and Aroostook County. This drive through northern Maine not only takes you away from coastal crowds, it also traverses four Maine Scenic Byways and passes through fields and forests and by lakes and mountains. In autumn, brilliant reds, golds, oranges and greens color the landscape—and you’ll have it all to yourself.
While you can make this loop in one very long day, I advise slowing down and savoring it over at least two, but ideally three days or longer. I’ve included recommendations for places to stay and eat along the way. You can travel clockwise or counter-clockwise, using I-95 (or even better, Route 2) to close the loop. Below is clockwise. (updated June 20, 2025)
Begin your scenic Maine loop in the Millinocket area. Once paper mills dominated the economy here, now Millinocket is an outdoor recreation hub. It’s the gateway to Baxter State Park, home to Katahdin, as well as the Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument.
Outdoor recreation defines this region: Hike in the parks, book a whitewater rafting trip on the Penobscot River with New England Outdoor Center, hire a guide for a fishing trip, paddle to the Ambajejus Boom House, or simply take it all in from a lakeside porch or aboard a pontoon boat.
Route 11 noodles through the eastern parts of the Maine Highlands, and the section from Medway to Patten doubles as the Katahdin Woods & Waters Maine Scenic Byway. Millinocket is the region’s anchor town and the last bit of civilization before heading into Baxter State Park or the National Monument. Even if you’re not going into Baxter, follow the Baxter State Park Road at least as far as the gate, stopping en route to enjoy the lake and mountain views.
For a long but rewarding day, consider looping from Millinocket through Baxter and back via the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway and Baxter State Park Road. You might even detour into the national monument (bring water and food). Drive very carefully, keeping an eye out for deer, moose, and even black bears.
Note:
• The roads in Baxter State Park and the national monument are gravel.
• RVs, motorcycles, and pets are not permitted in Baxter.
Worth the splurge: For stunning views over water to Katahdin, make reservations at the Five Lakes Lodge, a comfy log-and-stone bed-and-breakfast on a spit of land extending into South Twin Lake.
Prefer a cabin: New England Outdoor Center‘s Twin Pine campus, which edges Millinocket Lake backed by Katahdin, offers cabins and guest houses in various sizes. Or stay near Baxter’s northern entrance and the northern section of the national monument at Mount Chase Lodge, on the shores of Upper Shin Pond, off Rte. 159 northwest of Patten.
Notable nibbles and bites
For a delicious adventure, consider a Fly n’ Dine package with Katahdin Air. You’ll be flown round-trip via float plane to a remote sporting camp for dinner. En route, enjoy the elevated wilderness views and perhaps spot moose or other wildlife.
From Patten, head north on Route 11, parts of which double as the Fish River Maine Scenic Byway. This route ebbs and flows through forests and farmlands, over mountains and by lakes, offering a few pull-outs, rest areas with picnic tables and toilets, and sigh-inducing views along the way. Consider detouring to Portage Lake or Eagle Lake, which is almost surrounded by public lands.
In Fort Kent, the Fish River Scenic Byway intersects with the St. John River Valley Cultural and Scenic Byway. This journey through Acadian, Scots-Irish, and Québécois heritage follows the St. John River from Dickey, just west of Allagash, to Van Buren. It also includes a spur inland to St. Agatha and Sinclair on Long Lake.
Route 1 begins in Fort Kent, which honors this with a monument dedicated to The First Mile. In nearby Madawaska, the Four Corners Park attracts long-distance motorcyclists pinging the four corners of the country or the state.
Quite a few heritage sites pepper this section of this scenic Maine route. The National Historic Landmark Fort Kent Blockhouse, built in 1839, is a remnant of the (bloodless) Aroostook War, a border dispute with Canada that began in 1784 and wasn’t settled until 1842.
The St. Agatha Historical House and Preservation Center, overlooking Long Lake, is one of the best small-town local history museums I’ve ever visited.
Acadian heritage is especially strong in the St. John Valley. The Mount Carmel Museum and Cultural Center in Grand Isle, a former Catholic church, now displays Acadian antiques and artifacts and often hosts concerts. In St. David’s, stop by the Tante Blanche Museum, honoring an Acadian heroine. Just below it on the river is the Acadian Cross, marking the 1785 landing site of Acadians expelled by the British from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. (Others went to Louisiana, where they’re known as Cajuns). Tour through 19 antique and replica buildings at the Acadian Village in Keegan (see photo with Evangeline, above).
Built as a convent and later renovated as a nursing home, the Inn of Acadia, in Madawaska, sat empty for a decade before morphing into a chic and contemporary boutique inn. Choose from rooms, suites, and options with kitchens. Rates include a continental breakfast buffet augmented with fruit-filled ployes (crepes-style Acadian buckwheat pancakes) and drizzled with maple syrup. Trust me: You want one.
Breakfast is served in the hotel’s Voyageur Lounge, which also offers a wide-ranging dinner menu at reasonable prices. I can vouch for the duck wings and the ahi tuna salad.
From Van Buren, Rte. 1 heads south, passing through Caribou and Presque Isle, two corners of the Potato Triangle (Fort Fairfield is the third). Visit in mid-July, when the potato blossoms bloom, and varied shades of pink and lavender, along with yellow and white, color the farmlands. Many farms have honor-shacks, where you can purchase a bag or two of new or other potatoes.
Amish communities pepper this region, and Caribou is home to a world-class biathlon (cross-country skiing and target-shooting) center. Don’t be surprised to see Share the Road signs depicting a horse-and-buggy or a roller-skier, in addition to the usual snowmobile and moose warnings.
Detour inland and end up on Maine’s Swedish Colony. In 1870, William Widgery Thomas established a model agricultural community here with 50 Swedes. Their descendants populate the region today. While Midsommar—celebrated traditionally with food, a Maypole, and dancing—is the liveliest time to visit, historical sights and heritage museums are open sporadically through the summer season. For more Swedish delights, pop into Monika’s Imports, a Scandinavian specialty store in Caribou.
Honestly, the best way to appreciate this region is to mosey the byways. Detour off Route 1, and you’ll be rewarded with Amish settlements, the Watson Settlement covered bridge, and open ridges with forever views. Do pay attention to where you are, though. One time while exploring gravel roads west of Rte. 1, I came upon a Welcome to Canada sign. Whoops! Didn’t have my passport with me, or I might have ventured further.
Speaking of venturing farther: This scenic Maine loop includes interplanetary travel along Rte. 1 between Topsfield and Houlton. The three-dimensional Maine Solar System Model comprises the sun, planets, dwarf planets, and the moons for Earth, Saturn, Jupiter, and Pluto. You can see all the major planets along this nearly 100-mile stretch. One mile is equal to the distance between Earth and the sun, and the speed of light is 7mph. Find tiny Pluto in the lobby of the Houlton Visitor Center.
During the months before Pearl Harbor, planes were known to land at Houlton International Airport and then be towed by tractor across the border to Canada for takeoff on the highway. @Hilary Nangle
Although there’s not much to see these days, Houlton International Airport, established in 1941 as Houlton Army Air Base, has an interesting history. Neutrality laws prevented U.S.-built planes from flying directly from the United States to Britain. During the months before Pearl Harbor, planes were known to land in Houlton and then be towed by tractor across the border to Canada for takeoff on the highway.
In 1944, part of the base became Camp Houlton, Maine’s largest POW camp. Nearly 4,000 German prisoners lived here in the barracks. They labored in area lumber camps, canneries, potato farms, and paper mills.
Where to Sleep
In Caribou, book a room at the Old Iron Inn Bed & Breakfast, a 1913 arts-and-crafts-style house where innkeeper Kate McCartney provides insider tips and a great breakfast. Her husband, Dr. Kevin McCartney, a geology professor at UMPI and genius behind the Maine Solar System model, can also tell you the history behind each of the hundreds of old irons displayed within the house.
Notable nibbles and bites
A culinary anomaly in this region of comfort foods is Canterbury Royale, a très French semi-private dining experience, complete with hard-carved woodwork, silver, candelabras, and crystal, amidst the potato foods in Fort Fairfield. Plan well in advance, as it only takes two or three parties per night. You’ll also order your main entrée in advance. Classically trained chefs Barbara Boucher and Renee O’Neill will choose the other four courses.
You’ll also find Amish bakeries here and there, pop in for good homemade breads, jams, cookies, doughnuts, etc.
South of Houlton, an 8-mile section of Rte. 1, between Orient and Danforth, doubles as the Million Dollar View Maine Scenic Byway. The aptly named road offers two scenic pullouts. One looks east over the Chiputneticook chain of lakes (also known as the East Grand Lakes) into Canada. The other offers views of Katahdin and beyond to the Western Mountains. The latter is especially gorgeous at sunset. I imagine the former is equally gorgeous at sunrise, but I can’t vouch for that.
Guests at First Settler’s Lodge, sited along the Million Dollar View Scenic Byway, can enjoy views eastward over the lakes and west to Katahdin from the spacious log lodge. Breakfast is included; dinner is available; and pets are a possibility for a fee.
While you can close the loop through the Maine Highlands and Aroostook County via I-95, there are more scenic options. I love Rte. 2 between Smyrna and Lincoln. This far-less-traveled route includes farmlands, Amish settlements, and dreamy views of Katahdin and beyond.
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For more information: See my Moon-series Maine guidebook, published by Avalon Travel.
Whenever I’m on the Schoodic Peninsula, I pop into Prospect Harbor Soaps. I’m a fan of these locally made soaps, lotions and potions; think: scrubs, salts, lip balms, and other skincare products. I’m especially fond of the Victorian Lilac lotion. Whenever I slather myself with it, I’m transported to a lilac grove in full bloom. Heaven!
Alexis Souders started her company in 1993, building a skincare line free of parabens and tested only on friends, never on animals. Since then, she’s continued to expand her product line . Now it also includes all-natural bug repellent, soy candles, air fresheners, diffuser oils, and more.
Slather yourself silly at Prospect Harbor Soap Co., on Maine’s Schoodic Peninsula.
Prospect Harbor Soaps‘ newest addition is Vagabond, a men’s line. Instead of floral scents, Vagabond offers bay rum, ginger lime, and a spicy option.
At Prospect Harbor Soap Co.’s shop in Winter Harbor, you can sniff and slather to your heart’s content. There’s even a sink for testing the therapeutic bath scrubs.
Find this shop on the eastern end of Winter Harbor, just before the road heading into the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park. It’s adjacent to Sea Schoodic Bike & Kayak, where you can rent bicycles for exploring the park or kayaks for use on Jones Pond.
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Looking for lodging on the Schoodic Peninsula? One of my favorite Cheap Sleeps is pet-friendly Albee’s, but this shorefront cabin colony is not for fussbudgets. You might also check out the Bluff House Inn: New owners are committed to improving the property, which includes inn rooms, new one-room cabins, and an updated two-bedroom apartment.
Happy to see the Bluff House Inn looking much better. I’ve always liked the feel of the lodge-style inn on Maine’s Schoodic Peninsula. The peninsula is home to the only mainland section of Acadia National Park.
The last few years weren’t kind to this property. Enter Keara and Don McQuade, an energetic young couple with Maine roots (and an infant, horses and dogs). They purchased the inn in September 2018 and began breathing new life into the inn and expanding its potential.
The property, just off Route 182 in Gouldsboro, used to be well hidden with trees. While the inn itself remains hidden, some of the property has been clear cut to open the views and add a house as well as six, one-room guest cabins. And, of course, pastureland for the horses.
While the grounds looks rough now, the McQuades plan to plant lupine and blueberries. Not only will these provide ground cover and color, but they’ll also help frame the spectacular sunset views over Frenchman Bay.
The inn rooms remain much the same, with quilts topping the beds and stenciling in some. Most are spacious and have water views. All guests have access not only to the wrap-around balconies, but also to the window-walled great room downstairs. Plans to replace the carpeting will make a big difference in the overall look.
The great room, which takes up most of the downstairs, is the heart of this property. Breakfast, a self-serve, expanded continental buffet with waffles, is available each morning. Dine indoors or outside on the deck. If the weather is inclement, hunker down with a beer or glass of wine by one of the two fieldstone fireplaces, one in a cozy library nook.
Need more space? Reserve the updated, two-bedroom apartment built over a garage adjacent to the main inn. That, too, has spectacular views, especially from its deck.
The Bluff House is pet friendly: Ask about policies and possibilities.
I can’t think of a better way to enjoy a summer escape than staying aboard the Floating Nomad houseboat for a few days. That’s just what I did a few weeks ago with two friends. Already we’re pining to return.
NOTE: Unless captioned otherwise, images were taken at Floating Nomad’s original homeport in Rangeley. In 2021, it moved at Otyokwa, a former boys’ camp turned family or group vacation rental on Pemaquid Pond in Bremen.
My friend Martha found this houseboat and suggested (maybe insisted is a better word) that we book it for a couple of nights. Along with another friend, Leah, we did just that.
The houseboat, one of two marketed under the name Just Add Water Floating Camps, is owned and operated by Rheanna, an Annapolis grad, former Navy helicopter pilot, certified yoga instructor, and Registered Maine Guide.
Rheanna found and, with a professional boatbuilder, rebuilt another boat to create what’s now called the Floating Nomad. They did a fabulous job creating an inviting space with must-have conveniences done in contemporary style.
We entered through the bow deck, where there’s a gas grill, then passed through a sliding door into the houseboat. Living space is one big, long room with three distinct sections.
In the front are the captain’s wheel, a bluetooth speaker, a couch that morphs into a single bed, and a ship’s ladder to a loft with a double mattress.
That gives way to the central part of the houseboat, with the kitchen (sink, fridge, stove) on one side and entry to the airplane-sized bathroom (toilet, sink, shower) on the other.
On the stern end is another couch that doubles as a single bed and counter space with two seats. A door exits to the aft deck.
Amenities make life aboard easy: The kitchen offers all the must-haves and a few extras. While one could drink from the taps, there’s plentiful fresh bottled water available. Linens, towels, blankets, etc. are provided.
Other perks include heat, electricity for chargers, yoga mats, books, cards, and that bluetooth speaker.
Climb out of the lake after a swim or into the canoe for a paddle via the swim ladder on the aft deck. Or climb up to the rooftop stern deck, with Adirondack-style chairs and a firepit (s’mores anyone?). Continue from there to the hidden prize: The upper bow deck, with two chaise lounges.
In short: Plenty of room to spread out. If we had gotten tired of each other, we could have retreated to different parts of the houseboat.
We chose not. Although we could have paddled the canoe or jumped in the lake for a swim, we opted to read, relax, knit, play Phase 10 and Boggle, and simply chill. We also brought enough food aboard to keep us feasting for days, along with enough wine to accompany those feasts.
In between, we enjoyed the lake views, which were especially gorgeous at sunset. Probably also at sunrise, but none of us rose early enough to see that.
Despite our inactivity, the time went by all-too-quickly. When Rheanna texted us about returning to pilot the boat back to the dock, we told her we weren’t leaving, ever.
A second and smaller houseboat, Roam, also is available for rental. @Hilary Nangle
On the way back to the dock, Rheanna told us about her second houseboat, Roam. This one is a little smaller than the Floating Nomad. It has a kitchenette, bathroom, and sleeps up to three.
The Floating Nomad rents for $350/night; Roam is priced at $275/night. Rates include linens, towels, canoe, safety equipment, and much more. Both houseboats are made available first to those who rent Otyokwa first, with any open dates remaining available to others.
Take a video tour of the Floating Nomad (note: taken when it was on Rangeley Lake, it’s now on Pemaquid Pond, s the scenery is a bit different, but the houseboat is the same).
It’s easy to travel car free between Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick, Maine, via the Amtrak Downeaster train and the Greater Portland Metro Breez bus, thanks to a new, coordinated schedule.
Both the Breez bus and the Downeaster train dock at the Portland Transportation Center. The bus also stops at Monument Square in downtown Portland and the Yarmouth Town Hall. The train stops in downtown Freeport and downtown Brunswick.
Passengers can make connections to other Maine destinations, including Augusta, Bangor, and many coastal towns via Concord Coach Lines bus routes, and connecting regional buses as well as to Vinalhaven and North Haven islands by ferry.
The Amtrak Downeaster, operating between Boston’s North Station and Portland, also stops in Old Orchard (seasonal), Saco, and Wells, Maine.
Check out my Bus or Train page for details on traveling between Portland from Boston.
Maine lobster is world-renowned, and you can enjoy it a gazillion ways.
Of course, eating it is the biggie (there are so many options—baked, broiled, boiled, stuffed, and even fried—for starters), but don’t stop there.
Attend a festival celebrating the bugs (as nicknamed by lobstermen), watch races between lobster boats (fierce competition), or cruise aboard one and learn about and perhaps take part in how the tasty crustaceans are caught. Better yet, do it all.
Now I think the best way to enjoy lobster is in the rough at a lobster shack. You can get down and dirty and dig in with abandon, savoring the succulent meat and enjoying the experience of eating outdoors on a wharf or seaside deck. As you eat, watch lobstermen unload their catches or bait and fuel their boats, and listen to seagulls beg. Even better, at many, you can bring all the necessary go-withs, from tablecloths and flowers to wine and cheese. Here are my favorite Maine coast lobster shacks.
Maine has three lobster festivals that are worth planning a visit around.
Maine Lobster Festival
The big kahoona is the Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. This isn’t just a chow-down but a full-blown festival, with crownings and parades, fun races and games, exhibits, arts and crafts, music, and, of course, lobster (we’re talking more than 17,000 pounds served). Plan well ahead; it’ll take a miracle to arrive in town and find an empty hotel/motel room or even a campsite. Always the first weekend in August.
Winter Harbor Lobster Festival
Far smaller is the Winter Harbor Lobster Festival, in Winter Harbor, on the Schoodic Peninsula and near the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park. An event highlight is the annual lobsterboat race, with 13 classes rated by size and power. Other activities include a road race, a large craft fair, a parade, and, of course, a chow-down lobstah dinner with all the trimmings. The festival is free; there’s a charge for dinner. It is always the second Saturday in August.
Frenchboro Lobster Festival
Tiniest, but perhaps biggest in local pride, is the annual Frenchboro Lobster Festival, a one-day fund-raising shindig that requires a special ferry boat run from Bass Harbor, on Mount Desert Island. Frenchoboro, by the way, is great to visit anytime. Always the second Saturday in August.
Maine lobsterboat races
Maine Lobster Boat Races are a tradition along the coast.
NASCAR, schmasscar, in Maine, real men and women race lobsterboats, replacing the chug-a-lug engines with souped-up vroooommmers! Competitors take these races very seriously, and there are classes rated by size and power.
You’ve eaten lobster, celebrated lobster, watched the boats in the harbor, now it’s time to hop aboard one and take part in the catch. In the process, you’ll learn all sorts of lobster trivia, facts, and lore. When you’re ready for Lobster 101, consider cruising on one of these excursion boats.
Lucky Catch
Join Capt. Tom Martin aboard the Lucky Catch, operating from Portland’s waterfront, and you might even catch your own dinner. You can purchase any lobsters caught during the cruise at boat price and have them cooked at a nearby restaurant. Even if you don’t catch any, you’ll fill up on lobster trivia and have a blast.
The Luluoperates from Bar Harbor. Like the others, you’ll learn The Truth about lobsters, every little detail (including lobster boxing) you may (or may not) wish to know. The captain hauls a few lobster pots and demonstrates how to use a carapace to measure a lobster to determine whether it’s legal—a keepah! Kids love this trip, but adults are equally enthralled.
