Tough assignment, staying at the Portland Harbor Hotel and checking out the executive suites. Bottom line, if you can swing it, book one.
Now Maine isn’t a state that’s big on the luxury schtick. No Four Seasons, no Ritz Carlton. Sure, there are some boutique B&Bs and inns that do fussy well, but this was the first Portland hotel to really offer the red carpet treatment.
Can’t think of another place where you can practically swim (yes, I mean swim, it’s humongous) in the whirlpool tub (supposedly for two, but heck, you could have a pool party in it) while watching the flames flicker in the fireplace AND view the flat screen simultaneously. Separate shower is equally oversized, with two shower heads and a bench. And two sinks. And, well, let’s just say the bathroom is larger than many a starter New York apartment.
Not much not to like here. If I have to draw upon my inner curmudgeon, well, the fake apples should be real and there should be more outlets near the desk. I had to unplug the phone to plug in my laptop. It was either that or the light, and I’ve got this thing about seeing what I’m typing. Like I said, minor complaints. I mentioned the outlet to the manager, and I have no doubt that will be corrected.
Cool, contemporary decor
Decor in the executive suites is modernesque, with beige tones, cool artwork, and hardwood floors with area rugs; a nice change from the usual hotel vibe. Furniture is comfy, especially the bed. Nice white duvet, of course, and nightly turndown with robes, slippers, and chocolate lobsters: Gotta like that.
And downstairs in this section of the hotel is the updated fitness room. Greatly expanded (thank you!), with nice aerobic equipment (with TVs and iPod docks) and weights. No stretching area, but hey, can’t have everything. Big restrooms with showers provide a place for guests who stay beyond checkout to change before the long slog home.
The rest of the hotel recently completed an update that I really like. Guest and public rooms now have a chic and fun nautical vibe in red, white, and blue. During my 2018 visit, I stayed in a Jacuzzi suite with this new decor. In suite amenities included a sitting area, a small fridge, robes, a big Jacuzzi tub, and a separate shower.
The lounge flows into the Blue Fin North Atlantic Seafood restaurant, which opens to a central garden courtyard with a firepit. In January, the annual Ice Bar here always draws a crowed.
Hotel amenities
A certified concierge is on staff.
Professional nannies are available.
Bicycles and Wifi are complementary.
Each floor has a station where Starbucks coffee and tea are available each morning.
Some rooms are pet friendly ($25/pet/night).
Room-service is available at all hours.
Valet parking is $22/night.
Note: Since I originally posted this review in 2009, a number of upscale hotels have opened in in the city, including The Press Hotel.
I love Maine in winter. I embrace the quietude, love playing outdoors in the snow, and I especially love the special events that celebrate the season. Here are two of my favorites—and you don’t have to love the outdoors to enjoy them.
Participate in or simply watch the annual U.S. National Toboggan Championships in Camden.
Register now, if you want to fly down the 440-foot wooden chute at the Camden Snow Bowl as a competitor in the U.S. National Tobogganing Championships, Feb. 8-10. The icy chute shoots sleds out on frozen Hosmer Pond at the base of the town-owned winter recreation area (with alpine skiing and snowboarding).
Up to 400 teams from around the world are expected at this annual event, which is equally fun to watch. Participants race down the chute twice during Saturday’s qualifications; the best move on to Sunday’s finals. Most teams dress in costumes, and there’s even a costume parade, noon on Saturday, complete with judges and trophies.
There’s no fee to watch the races, but there’s a parking fee for the Snow Bowl lot. Save bucks by taking the shuttle buses running from the village green downtown.
MTM TIPS: Consider making a day of it by pairing watching the races with skiing or riding at the Snow Bowl, where you can see out over island-salted Penobscot Bay from the summit. On Friday, 11am-4pm, the chute is open to the public for a modest per-person fee, rental toboggans are available.
Paint the Town Red, a romance-themed event sponsored by the Kennebunkport Resort Collection, brightens Kennebunkport in February, with events scheduled almost every Saturday. Here’s a sampling of the 2019 offerings:
• Feb. 2: Frosted! A Freezing Good Time Ice Bar at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, 7-10pm ($55).
• Feb. 9: Drinks through the Decades at The Burleigh, an interactive mixology class, 1-3pm ($40)
• Feb. 16: Wine and Valentines at The Burleigh, three wine tastings paired with hors d’oeuvres, 1-3pm ($20pp or $35couple)
• Feb. 23: Oyster Shucking Class at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, shuck a half-dozen oysters, wine tasting, and snacks, 1-3pm, $45pp
A Red Plate Dinner Series is also part of the event:
• Feb. 16: Sushi-Making Demo & Dinner at The Boathouse Waterfront Hotel, interactive demonstration with light bites and sake tasting followed by a three-course meal, 4-6pm, $50pp
• Feb. 9: Earth Pop-Up at Ocean, a first taste of the 2019 Earth menu, welcome cocktails and apps, followed by a three-course dinner with wine pairings, 6-9pm (from $125)
• Feb. 14: Valentines Day Dinner at The Burleigh and the Boathouse Waterfront Hotel
Of course, two-night themed lodging packages are available from $479, and all kinds of attractive add-ons are offered from Dom Perignon served in Waterford flutes to a custom engagement ring. Shuttle transportation is available from Portland International Jetport for $40 pp each way.
MTM TIPS: Bring snowshoes or cross-country skis to enjoy nearby preserves, such as The Wells Reserve at Laudholm Farm. Bring mad money to spend at local shops, many of which will have sales in progress.
Brighten the season with Maine’s Gardens Aglow, the annual holiday light extravaganza at the Maine Coastal Botanical Gardens in Boothbay.
If this vibrant illumination isn’t enough magic for the evening, Boothbay Lights doubles the pleasure with more lights, as well as activities and festivities in Boothbay, Boothbay Harbor, and throughout the peninsula.
New England’s biggest and brightest light show, Gardens Aglow illuminates the upper gardens and woodlands with more than 650,000 lights. If you’ve visited the gardens in summer, experiencing them in winter is special treat. It appears that every twig, branch, and limb shines, with shimmering reflections enhancing the effect. The children’s garden, garden of the five senses, woodlands, arbor garden, great lawn, and kitchen garden all bloom with lights rather than blossoms.
Dress warmly and sip hot chocolate while you meander. Enjoy grab-and-go fare from The Market and Snack Shack. Don’t miss the family oriented activities in the Bosarge Family Education Center. You might finish the holiday shopping in the Gardenshop. There’s even live music on select Thursday evenings.
Signature events for Boothbay Lights include: North Pole Express, Festival of Trees, Harbor Lights Festival, Dough Ball & Gingerbread Spectacular, and Holiday Sparkle Fireworks. Shuttles operate between Boothbay Harbor and the gardens. If you’re planning on enjoying dinner in the area, it’s wise to make reservations. Find out what’s open, here.
Maine’s Gardens Aglow continues Thursday-Sunday, 4-9pm, through Dec. 31 (closed Dec. 24). Tickets, available online, are $14 adults, $12 seniors, $8 kids ages 3-17, or $36/family comprising two adults and two kids (tix cost more on site). For info on shuttles and carpooling, check the website. Wheelchairs and scooters are available.
Ahhhh! The Artists’ Island. Take a walk about Monhegan Island, and it’s easy to see how it earned that moniker. Everywhere you look is a scene waiting to be painted. And indeed, there’s also an artist painting it.
Monhegan Island, Maine, has attracted drifters and dreamers since the early 1600s. Year round, it’s home to about 60 hearty souls who mostly make their living off the sea. In summer, the population ebbs and flows with the daily boats that ferry passengers from Boothbay Harbor, New Harbor, and Port Clyde.
It’s a perfect one-day escape, but to truly understand Monhegan’s lure, plan to spend a night or two. That allows time to visit the museum and galleries, perhaps climb the light tower, enjoy the ’round-the-island cruise, and hike a few of the island trails.
If you’re a fan of American art, you’ll recognize the scenes: the red house perched on the harbor’s edge, stark Manana Island, the soaring cliffs of White and Black Heads, the D. S. Sheridan’s rusting hull, the light station at the island’s summit. Monhegan’s seascapes, landscapes and village scapes are all eerily familiar because icons of American art been painted them.
Among the big-name artists who’ve spent time on Monhegan Island are Robert Henri, Rockwell Kent, George Bellows, Edward Hopper, James Fitzgerald, Alice Kent Stoddard, Reuben Tam, William Kienbusch, three generations of Wyeths, and scores of others.
Preserving Monhegan Island’s history and art heritage
The former lighthouse-keeper’s house the Monhegan Museum of Art and History’s impressive collection. It’s well worth the effort to climb Lighthouse Hill to view the exhibits, artifacts, and paintings inside. Among the subjects: the Hermit of Manana, lobstering, and island flora and fauna.
The adjacent, replica assistant keeper’s house is a purpose-built gallery showcasing Monhegan-related art. One interesting tidbit about the museum: It shows only the work of deceased artists.
The light tower is also part of the museum’s Lighthouse Hill complex. It’s open on a set schedule during the museum’s season (late June through September). Climb it for a gull’s- eye view over the village, harbor, and Manana Island out to the open ocean.
Plan on also visiting the Kent-Fitzgerald House and Studio, both affiliated with the museum. The duo, part of the Fitzgerald Legacy, are listed on the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Historic Artist’s Homes and Studios Program. (Note: This joint Monhegan property joined the Winslow Homer Studio in Prouts Neck as the second Maine listing out of about 30 nationwide).
Contemporary artists can be viewed painting all around the island, and about two dozen maintain open studios on a rotating schedule. You can pick up a schedule at the Rope Shed, the island’s version of a daily newspaper.
Other art venues include The Island Inn, the Trailing Yew, and the Lupine Gallery.
Monhegan Island: happy place for hikers and birders
Hikers set out from the village to explore the 12 miles of trails lacing Monhegan Island. @Hilary Nangle
Beyond artists and dreamers, Monhegan lures hikers and birders. Although only 1.7 miles long and barely a half-mile wide, 17 numbered and mapped trails it, providing about 12 miles of hiking.
Trails edge the cliffs, pass over hills, bisect fields, and shimmy through Cathedral Woods (famous also for its fairy houses). The views are stunning, and for birders, especially during spring and fall flyovers, Monhegan is without par, as it’s on the Eastern Flyway migration route.
One of the joys of Mohegan is that it’s easy to lose any crowds and find a place, a rock, ledge, or clifftop perch, where you can meditate, gaze into the future, or contemplate your existence.
Car free is care free
Three passenger ferries service Monhegan: The Balmy Days departs Boothbay Harbor; the Hardy Boat departs New Harbor, and Monhegan Boat Line leaves from Port Clyde. A fleet of trucks from island accommodations greets arriving boats to ferry luggage to each property.
Year-rounders own the only other vehicles on the island. Some of the summer residents use golf carts. In any case, there’s only about a half mile of dirt road.
Note: Monhegan isn’t a good choice for those with mobility issues. It’s not easy to navigate the rough, hilly roads.
Start with the obvious, The Barnicle, on the left as you disembark from the ferry. It’s a great spot for baked goods, coffee, tea, and light fare. It also sells wine and beer. You’ll see a handful of tables on the beach.
The Monhegan Store sells groceries, wine, and beer and makes to-go breakfast and regular sandwiches to order.
The Barnicle, behind The Monhegan House, offers great New York-style pizza by the slab or pie, as well as sandwiches and salads. It also sells wine and beer, and it has a few picnic tables, too.
If you’re looking for a sit-down meal, the dining rooms at the Island Inn, Monhegan House, and The Trailing Yew are open for dinner. The Island Inn also serves breakfast and lunch.
My favorite place is the Fish House on Fish House Beach, a lobster-doesn’t-get-much-rougher shack also selling chowders and other seafood. Order inside, then snag a picnic table or seat on the beach. Heaven! (It’s one of my favorite Maine lobster shacks)
Don’t miss Monhegan Brewery with its outdoor Trap Room. Also, look for java from Monhegan Coffee Roasters.
The Island Inn provides the finest accommodations (if you’re persnickety, reserve an ocean-view room or suite here). Don’t expect fancy; the inn is comfy, and all but a few rooms have private baths. It also has a dining room open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and it has fabulous views from the front rooms and the porch, although I think the Adirondack-style chairs on the lawn are irresistible.
Both the Monhegan House and the Trailing Yew are more rustic; most rooms in each share baths. Both have a long history of sheltering artists.
The Shining Sail offers guest rooms and efficiencies and also acts as an agent for rental cottages. I’ve stayed at most of these properties, and each has its charms.
Finding the Alexander Art Trail requires noodling through the back of beyond, but this unique—in the truest sense of the word—sculpture park sited amidst down east Maine’s lakes and woods makes the effort worthwhile.
Once you find it, douse yourself with bug dope and follow the trail. First stop: the donation box, $2 pp is requested. Trust me, it’s worth it. The trail moseys through woodlands peppered with imported, life-size, hand-carved, oak sculptures. It’s labeled as the largest hand-carved outdoor sculpture collection in Maine, and the only somewhat similar one I’m aware of is the equally quirky Langlais sculpture preserve in Cushing (more on that in a future post).
The (late) Roland and Grazina Paegle created the sculpture park after seeing similar ones in Europe. They hired Lithuanian artists to hand carve the life-size sculptures in solid oak, choosing ones that complemented the lakes and woods setting.
On this side of the Atlantic, the Paegles began cutting the trails on land near the shores of Barrows Lake at the base of Breakneck Mountain. They made cases to shelter smaller pieces, and began soliciting local artists to participate. The trail, a collaboration between a local landowner, the non-profit History Dome and Art Park, Inc., artists, and volunteers, had its first full season in 2010.
According to the Alexander Sculpture Trail’s website, the park is “part museum, part gallery, and part fairy woodland.” It’s an accurate description. More than two dozen sculptures pepper the woodlands. Most are smack on the trail, but those who look a bit beyond into the woods will find some surprises.
In addition driftwood sculptures created by Roland Paegle and pieces loaned or created by other artists complement the Lithuanian carvings.
Sculptures aren’t identified, leaving visitors to imagine who or what they are and the relationship between adjacent sculptures. For example, I easily spied Little Red Riding Hood and the Big Bad Wolf; another sculpture that must have been one of Snow White’s dwarfs; and one that looked like a Viking fisherman or maybe it represented a spiritual loaves-and-fishes inspiration.
Paegle’s driftwood works are intriguing. Some show a sense of humor. Both American Idol and Bad Hair Day made me chuckle. Another asked: Is your glass half full or half empty?
The longer I stayed, the more I saw. Sure, you can tour through the sculpture park in 20-30 minutes, but if you pause here and there, stop to carefully examine the works in cases, and aim to spy the surprises, it’s easy to while away an hour or so here. Carved benches and seats make it easy to relax and enjoy the experience.
Since the park defines remote, it’s wise to allow enough time to enjoy it, ponder interpretations, and find the surprises when planning a trip.
The Alexander Art Trail sculpture park is in Alexander, Maine, about 30 minutes west of Calais. From Route 9, turn south on Davis Rd., just west of the South Princeton Road, and follow the signs — you’ll need to look carefully, as some are partially screened by foliage. Turn right on Crawford Road (at the Pleasant Lake Camping Area), then keep left on Barrows Lake Road. At the T intersection, turn right. You’ll see the sculpture park on your left just before the waters of Barrows Lake appear on your right.
Note: When you’re getting close, roads will change to dirt. Honestly, you’ll likely think you’re lost before you find it, but persevere.
From the minute one arrives at Maine’s Spruce Point Inn, there’s a sense of ahhhh. The oceanfront resort sprawls over 57 landscaped acres salted with numerous amenities, including pools, hot tubs, spa, games and fitness rooms, outdoor activities, and dining options.
Despite all the temptations, it’s hard to resist just settling into one of the Adirondack chairs placed on the lawn and along the shore and simply soaking in the water views.
Frankly, there’s no reason to even leave the resort’s property, other than to see or experience nearby attractions, and boat and van shuttles make even that, easy to do.
The inn’s accommodations include rooms and suites in the main inn and lodges as well cottages and townhomes. I checked into my split-level Lodge room, entering via a private covered, oceanview porch with two of those irresistible Adirondack-style chairs. From here, French doors opened to a comfy sitting area with a pullout-couch, easy chairs, large flat-screen TV, and gas fireplace. That gave way via two steps to the bedroom area, with two queens dressed in triple-sheeted white bedding.
Another set of French doors, these frosted, opened to the bathroom, with oversized, jetted tub, separate shower, and dual vanity. Vaulted ceilings and the open concept, along with the Maine cottage-style décor, enhanced the suite’s spacious feeling.
In-room amenities included nice robes, a Keurig coffee-maker, a refrigerator with Poland Spring water, and a microwave. Seriously, I could have easily camped out here for the week, but with so many tantalizing options, I set out to explore.
Head to the Spruce Point Inn’s waterfront for kayaks, paddleboards, bicycles, the saltwater pool, fishing equipment, charter sails, and the shuttle boat to Boothbay Harbor.@Hilary Nangle
I planned to check out the waterfront offerings, but en route, one of those Adirondack chairs by the shoreline called my name. For a good 20 minutes or so, I watched the boat traffic in and out of the harbor, kids swimming in the ocean, and kayakers paddling along the shoreline.
Eventually, I broke away and headed to the oceanfront saltwater pool, where a number of families looked settled in for the day. Adults soaked in the hot tub while the kiddos played in the pool or the ocean waters, racing each other to a float.
An attendant takes care of needs and also oversees the sporting equipment: fishing rods, kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles in kid and adult sizes. From the dock, a shuttle boat ferries guests to downtown Bar Harbor on a set schedule. As I turned to mosey inland, I noticed a massage tent set up on the shore; nice!
Paths lace the grounds, with signposts pointing to various facilities. En route to the freshwater pool and spa, I walked by the main inn, the chef’s garden, and an outdoor fire pit with an adjacent oversized chess/checkers set up.
This route also took me by a few of the individual cottages scattered around the property, the games-filled Lighthouse recreation hall (with complimentary guest laundry), a playground complete with a sailboat and a lobsterboat, and lawn games area. Just beyond the heated freshwater pool and the spa were two Har-Tru tennis courts. In addition, two miles of hiking trails lace the woodlands.
Here’s the real plus: Use of all these amenities is included in the rate. While spa services (massages, etc.) incur fees, all guests have access to the spa garden area, with hot tub. Charges also apply for boat charters.
The weather was ideal during my stay, but what if it rains? That’s when the rec hall, fitness room, and spa all come in handy.
Where to begin… The Spruce Point Inn offers a slew of set activities, all included in the rate. These include a culinary demo and tasting, mixology class, evening s’mores at the fire pit, fairy houses, and harbor tours to Burnt Island Light.
Also included are children’s programs for ages 5-12, by reservation on a first-come, first-served basis. The Lighthouse Camp runs Thursday through Sundays from 10am-2pm and includes lunch and a snack. Kids’ Night Out includes dinner and a snack and keeps kids occupied on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings from 6-9pm, so parents can enjoy a quiet dinner.
Meals aren’t included in the Spruce Point Inn’s rates, but there are several options, restaurants in the Boothbays run the gamut from fast food to upscale dining. Of course, most of the ingredients are sourced locally.
Bogie’s is a casual spot with two dining rooms and a bar/lounge. Breakfast is a self-serve buffet with a breads and pastries station, omelet station, fruit and cereal, and hot entrees. Beverages are served to the table.
Lunch is available on an expansive, ocean-view deck.
Bogie’s can get very busy especially for dinner, when reservations are advised. The broad menu has something for everyone, including shared items, light bites, and entreés, with an emphasis on comfort foods; think fancy burgers and lobster rolls to lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and seafood paella ($12-24). I dined with a friend and opted for a high-top table in the bar area, where service was friendly and efficient; loved the beer mussels, SPI signature salad, and the paella.
While most guests keep it easy and casual at Bogie’s, the inn also offers fine dining in 88, a white tablecloth venue welcoming those age 10 and older; entrées such as lobster en papiolotte, seared filet mignon, and a vegetarian fresh linguini run $20-35. Guests are expected to dress appropriately (jackets encouraged but not required for men; no jeans, sneakers, or sportwear).
The Spruce Point Inn offers a number of dog-friendly accommodations, and I saw a lot of dogs during my stay. There’s no extra fee, which makes sense, since this is an especially family friendly resort. A lot of multi-generation families are frequent guests, and dogs are part of the family.
It’s easy to while away the day relaxing by the ocean-side infinity pool and hot tub at the Inn at Ocean’s Edge in Lincolnville, Maine. Courtesy photo.
The splurge-worthy Inn at Ocean’s Edge delivers on its name. Tucked well off Route 1 in Lincolnville, this Maine inn’s seven-acre property descends to a pebble beach. On clear days, ocean views take in ferry-linked Islesboro; on inclement ones, fog often shrouds the island, creating mystical, but equally beautiful views.
Foggy and damp were the conditions when I visited earlier this month as part of my research for a new edition of one of my Moon-series Maine guidebooks. Sited off Route 1 in Lincolnville, the inn is about 3 miles north of Camden and just over a mile south of Lincolnville Beach. A quiet lane descends through woodlands before arriving at the Inn at Ocean’s Edge.
The Inn at Ocean’s Edge comprises two shingle-style buildings: one waterfront, with guestrooms, breakfast room, lounge, fitness room, and pub; and another sited above it, with more guestrooms. I stayed in the main building, where most guestrooms, including mine, face the water. Guests in the Hilltop building have panoramic water views from private balconies.
Upon entering my room, what struck me first was the spaciousness. The handsome decor—an elegant and minimalist palette in muted shades of pewter, slate, and cream—enhanced that.
Every room has a gas fireplace, a wet bar with refrigerator, a desk, individual temperature controls, and a seating area with two comfy chairs with table and an ottoman. I loved that with the window open, I could hear waves lapping the shore.
Granite countertops and oversized showers highlight the bathrooms. Some rooms also have jetted tubs. Bathrobes are provided, always a nice touch.
It would have been easy to while away the damp afternoon by watching the fog swirl and fireplace flames dance. Instead, I donned a raincoat went exploring. First stop, a small seating area on the second floor with a balcony over the first-floor breakfast room, which opened to a deck. When I padded downstairs, I found afternoon sweets laid out next to the all-day coffee and tea.
On the main inn’s lowest level is a fitness room with aerobic machines, free weights, and other fitness equipment. Also here is an especially large library/lounge, with couches grouped by the fireplace, shelves filled with books, easy chairs, a table perfect for bridge or other games, a big-screen TV, and a guest computer with printer.
The library/games room offers direct access to a landscaped yard, salted with organic gardens, shade trees, and lounge chairs. Pebble paths connect to the shoreline and to the separate Poolhouse building, built into the hillside.
The Poolhouse Suites have views over the pool and hot tub to the ocean. Courtesy photo
I toured one of the two, cathedral-ceiling Poolhouse Studio Suites that occupy the upper level. Thanks to that hillside siting, both have direct access from the path. Each suite comprises two areas decorated in Maine cottage style.
The entry area offers a kitchenette with refrigerator and microwave, a bathroom, and an oversized closet. A door opens to the an oversized king bedroom with comfy chairs in front of the fireplace; a TV is over the fireplace, and adjacent to the fireplace is a large jetted tub. A private, covered balcony overlooks the pool to the ocean.
Directly below the suites in the Poolhouse is another guest social room with inviting seating and a fireplace along with self-serve honor bar stocked with wine, beer, and soft drinks. A peek down a hallway revealed a wood-burning sauna and two massage rooms.
The social room opens to an outdoor lounge, with vanishing-edge pool, hot tub, lounge chairs, and a fireplace. Towels are provided, and there are changing rooms, too. If it had been a nice day, it would have been hard to get me away from here.
The Inn at Ocean’s Edge serves a full breakfast. This includes buffet areas with pastries, fresh fruit, smoked salmon, juices, and cereals, as well as a hot entrée served to the table; choose from eggs any style, pancakes, or the daily special. I opted for the latter, a delicious frittata. Guests may dine in the dining room or outside on the water-side deck.
Those who plan ahead can order a box lunch, but the order must be placed by 8pm the previous day.
Also on the main floor is a bright pub with a full bar. Grab a seat at the bar, one of the tables, or relax by the fireplace.
View of the Inn at Ocean’s Edge from the water side. The oceanfront inn’s 7-acre property includes woodlands, shady lawn, and organic gardens. @Hilary Nangle
When it comes to location, few Maine hotels can rival that of the Black Point Inn. Built in 1878 at the tip of Scarborough’s Prouts Neck, the shingle-style inn tops a rise between Ferry Beach and Scarborough a.k.a. Jordan’s) Beach. Coastal views extend south to Old Orchard, north toward Casco Bay, and out to open ocean. Just a short walk or pedal away is the carefully restored Winslow Homer Studio (now owned by the Portland Museum of Art), where the artist painted many of his masterpieces. Tucked in between is a woodland sanctuary laced with trails and boardwalks.
I have history with the Black Point Inn, so please indulge me in a bit of reminiscing. My best job ever was here one summer during my college years. I was hired as a dining room waitress, but the hotel needed someone to serve drinks. I was of age, so I was given the job.
Now this was when the BPI was a classic, old-style summer resort owned by the Dugas family. Most of the staff worked in Florida during the winter, and Maine in the summer, and every job had its social place. As a cocktail waitress, I was considered upper staff. That meant I didn’t stay in the dorm, but had a private room in the same building as the executive and sous chefs; it also meant that I didn’t eat in the zoo mess, but in the side hall dining room, served by a waitress and dining off the guest menu with only the lobster and steak crossed out.
The genteel clientele comprised the newly wed and the nearly dead. Of the latter, many came for the summer, sitting in the exact same chair at the exact same table, ordering the exact same drink every day (Mrs. Robinson, small window table facing water, Crown Royal on the rocks).
I served drinks around the ocean-side pool at lunch, in the lounge in the afternoon, and in the formal dining room (jackets for men) during dinner service. That left plenty of time to hit the beach during the day, and at night—remember newly wed/nearly dead—the lounge usually closed by 10 or so, leaving plenty of time to catch last call in Portland.
In the years since, the resort has had its ups and downs. The ocean-view pool where lunch was served is now a private home (a newer, geothermically heated outdoor pool is behind the inn); the dorm and staff cottages are gone; conference space added and taken down; the public space on the first floor reworked. Now, under management of the Migis Hotel Group, the Black Point Inn is again flourishing as a classic summer hotel with luxurious touches, but without stuffiness.
The first thing I spied upon approaching the inn was an inviting line of white, Adirondack-style chairs on lawn, positioned just so to take in the sunset views over Ferry Beach. On a clear day, you can even see Mount Washington’s distant outline as the backdrop.
Also positioned to take in those views are an ultra-spacious sun porch with inviting wicker furniture and games tables; an open porch with dining tables and more wicker lounging chairs; an indoor dining area and lounge; and the inn’s living room, with seating areas grouped around a grand piano and a fireplace. One signature of the Migis Group (owner of Migis Lodge on Sebago Lake) is that there’s always a wood-burning fire blazing, no matter what the temperature.
I arrived in time for afternoon refreshments, so I helped myself to a cup of Harney tea (big points in my book; hard to beat Harney for bagged tea) and a couple of cookies, while my bag was delivered to my room. I could have asked for someone to take me in the original, historical operator-required elevator, but I opted for the stairs.
Upon check-in I was told there was a wine-tasting starting that afternoon (other days offer beer tastings and live jazz), and I wasn’t about to miss that. I found a rep from Devenish Wines pouring various whites and reds on the porch. Complimentary cheese and crackers were also provided. I settled into a wicker rocker with a glass of Sancerre and a small plate of nibbles, and gazed out at the easy-on-the-eyes views.
I loved my spacious third-floor room with views northward along the coast. It had a nice sitting area, and a newly redone bathroom with dual sinks and large tiled shower. The rooms have air-conditioning, but I opted to open windows and let the sea breezes do the work instead.
Guests are provided with complimentary Wifi, bottles of Poland Spring Water, and nice bathrobes. The latter are handy when heading to the pool. A hefty book listed about everything you could consider, from activities and experiences to optional services, such as laundry.
I peeked into a few other guestrooms. Some are ideal for families, others for gal-pal trips, connecting rooms are an option. None of the 25 rooms or suites is alike. A few have private decks or big bay windows. I think most have water views.
The Black Point Inn is also a Maine certified-green Environmental Leader. Among its green initiatives: refillable shampoo and conditioner dispensers, water-conserving faucets and showerheads, composting kitchen food waste, geothermic heating and cooling system, and culinary partnership with the Gulf of Maine Research Institute to support responsible harvesting of Gulf of Maine seafood.
A friend met me for dinner. We had reservations for The Point, the inn’s more formal, white-tablecloth dining room, but it was such a perfect evening, we switched to The Chart Room, so we could dine at an outside table. My oven-roasted cod (with Laughing Bird shrimp, fregula sarda, and lemon-butter sauce) was moist and flavorful—and I’m fussy about fish; my friend’s lobster roll had her smiling. For dessert, we split a confit lemon honey tart. Neither of us planned to eat ore than a bite or two, but it disappeared and we each wished we’d ordered our own.
After dinner, I climbed the steep, narrow, winding stairs to the inn’s Widow’s Walk, accessed from the third floor, to catch sunset’s lingering smokey light.
The next morning, hearty Maine gal that I am, I enjoyed my traditional eggs benie breakfast outside as well.
Note: The restaurant is open to the public, and early and late in the season, the inn often runs two-for-one specials with coupons in the local papers.
The Black Point Inn’s location is primo. For starters, there are the two beaches: quiet Ferry Beach, with usually gentle surf, and Scarborough Beach, with crashing waves.
Now add the Cliff Walk, a rugged, 150+-year-old coastal ramble that soars over cliffs and drops to rocky beaches, and passes the Winslow Homer Studio. Anyone familiar with the artist’s works likely will recognize scenes along the Cliff Walk from his paintings. For art lovers, the inn’s Winslow Homer Studio Tour package is a must.
For easier walking, opt instead for the woodland bird sanctuary, a gift to the people of Prouts Neck from Charles Savage Homer, Winslow’s brother. I loved moseying here. You might find a map at a trail head. In any case, look for the Homer memorial.
If I’d wanted, I could have borrowed one of the inn’s beach bikes for an easy pedal; a real plus for cyclists—the neck’s 25 mph speed limit is strictly enforced. Also available to guests are paddleboards, kayaks, and canoes—nice for exploring from Ferry Beach in to the Scarborough Marsh tidal estuary.
Other perks include access to the private Prouts Neck Beach Club and, for a fee, to a private ocean-side golf course and 14 private clay tennis courts.
Truth is, while there’s much to explore in the area, you could easily enjoy a classic late 19th-century-style vacation spending your days in the pool, on the beaches, hiking, paddling, or exploring a woodland, claiming the same table every evening, and never leaving Prouts Neck.
Diners at The Boathouse Restaurant, just off Dock Square, have great views of the Kennebunk River from inside as well as from on the large deck. Courtesy photo
Menu for The Boathouse Restaurant in Kennebunkport, Maine.
Classical Maine fare gets an update on Chef John Shaw’s menu at The Boathouse Restaurant, in Kennebunkport. The restaurant, part of the Kennebunkport Resort Collection, is sited in The Boathouse Hotel. The site was last occupied by Davids KPT, which closed in late October.
Updates to the restaurant’s design include the addition of The Lobster Bar, which serves chilled Maine lobster tail, Maine lobster tacos, Maine oysters, scallop crudo, and similar fresh seafood.
Chef Shaw, a Kennebunk native, spent seven years in the kitchen at The Tides Beach Club, a KRC property on Goose Rocks Beach. His menu emphasizes fresh Maine seafood and other locally sourced ingredients, often with Asian accents.
The Boathouse Restaurant, open daily, noon-9pm for lunch and dinner, has seating indoors as well as on a large deck hanging over the Kennebunk River.
Tick- mosquito- and other insect-repelling clothing comes in kid and adult sizes. Photo courtesy Dog Be Gone.
Beat bugs with Dog Not Gone Maine-made, No Fly Zone, insect-repelling clothing and accessories for people, dogs, and horses. Designer Julie Swain uses permethin-treated fabrics that repel ticks and biting insects including mosquitoes, chiggers, ants, flies, and midges. I’ve tested the vest, and can highly recommend it.
Not only are biting insects annoying (itching, scratching!), but increasingly they also carry diseases such as Lyme and Zika. Better safe than sorry—even preventive treatment for tick bites can exceed $200, which makes insect-repelling clothing a smart buy.
I’d all but sworn off walking in the woods, until Julie introduced me to her product line. My hunter-orange vest not only repelled the nasties, it also kept me highly visible both in the woods and when walking along roadways.
Ways to beat bugs
Keep kids safe with insect-repelling clothing made in Maine. Photo courtesy Dog Be Gone.
After you outfit yourself and your family, think about outfitting your dog and/or horse with pet-specific insect-repelling and/or visibility products. Check out the No Fly Zone insect-repelling safety vests and kerchiefs for dogs; No Fly Zone safety horse vests; untreated safety vests and pack vests for dogs; and a safety leash, reflective safety collar, and high-visibility reflective collar kerchief.
Swain, and her husband, Bill, founded Dog Not Gone in 2005. Her first product was a vest for a hunting dog, which she made at home. A buyer from L.L. Bean saw it, and the company took off. Now, their visibility and insect-repelling clothing and accessories are made in Skowhegan, Maine, using cloth that’s made in America.
If you’re in Skowhegan, visit the factory outlet store at 40 Dane Lane; check the website for current hours.
NOTE: I’m recommending this product because I tested it. I have not received any monetary or sponsorship compensation.
If you’re a fan of American art, you’ll recognize the scenes: the red house perched on the harbor’s edge, stark Manana Island, the soaring cliffs of White and Black Heads, the D. S. Sheridan’s rusting hull, the light station at the island’s summit. Monhegan’s seascapes, landscapes and village scapes are all eerily familiar because icons of American art been painted them.
After you outfit yourself and your family, think about outfitting your dog and/or horse with pet-specific insect-repelling and/or visibility products. Check out the No Fly Zone insect-repelling safety vests and kerchiefs for dogs; No Fly Zone safety horse vests; untreated safety vests and pack vests for dogs; and a safety leash, reflective safety collar, and high-visibility reflective collar kerchief.