This is my first destination trip to Manoir Hovey in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, but it certainly won’t be my last. After fewer than 12 hours here, I’m hooked. Hooked on the scenery–rolling farmlands, mountains and lakes. And hooked on the sights. And hooked on the food.
A Relais & Chateaux-member property, Manoir Hovey fronts on Lake Massawippi, in North Hatley. This an elegant country inn located about 30 minutes north of the Derby Line, Vt./Stanstead, Quebec border (I-91 to Canada 55) gets everything right. (light update, June 11, 2026)
History of Manoir Hovey
Built in 1900 by Henry Atkinson, owner of Georgia Power in Atlanta, Manoir Hovey, then called The Birches, was inspired by Mt. Vernon, George Washington’s Virginia estate. The Atkinson family was one of many southern families who began vacationing in the area in the era after the Civil War. Their home was one of the grandest, fronting right on the lake and having not only stables, a coach house, and servants’ quarters, but also a private nine-hole golf course.
In the 1950s, it became an inn, and Kathryn and Stephen Stafford have owned and operated it since 1979. The current name honors Colonial Ebenezer Hovey, a Loyalist who relocated here from New England after the Declaration of Independence.
Dining at Manoir Hovey
But if the accommodations sing, the dining is an aria. The wine list is actually a book, with a resident sommelier available to assist diners in pairing wines with food selections. Dinner begins with an amuse bouche, a teaser for the tastebuds, followed by an appetizer, entree and dessert. A seven-course tasting menu, with wine parings, is available at an additional fee. The dining room is divided into two areas: a winterized porch overlooking the lake and a main room anchored by a fireplace. Chairs are comfortable–vital for a relaxed, well-paced meal that easily stretches to two hours.
Our appetizers, tuna tartar and Quebec lamb with grapefruit and cilantro, were both so good that neither of us wanted to share. Portions were ample, but not oversized. For entrees, we ordered the Quebec lamb and milk-fed veal. Again, we savored every bite. Instead of dessert, we opted for the cheese plate choosing three from about 15 cheeses–sheep, cow and goat, most from Quebec. Our waiter, Marc, explained each. Also of note is the tea menu–a plus for tea lovers. The loose-leaf tea is served in a French press. If all this weren’t enough, a plate of “sweeties” was our parting kiss. Parfait!
What to see and do nearby
Haskell Library and Opera House
When entering the Haskell Library and Opera House, in Stanstead, Vt., watch where you step. The historic structure straddles the U.S./Canada border between Stanstead, Quebec, and Derby Line, Vt. Everyone enters through the front door, but look carefully. A blue line runs diagonally through the reading room, making it possible to read across the lines. Tired of Vermont, step across the room and settle into a chair in Quebec.
Ditto for the upstairs opera house, where the border division consists of a line painted on the floor in the audience section. Locals joke that performers here always play to an international audience. The theater is a work of art in itself; ask in the library for a tour, available for a small fee. Better yet, time a visit to coincide with a show.
One caution: Be careful to park on the side of the border from which you came. From the U.S., park in the parking lot or in front of the library; from Canada, park on the side street or behind. It’s okay to cross the border on foot to enter the library.
Saint Benoit-du-lac Monastery
Also nearby is Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Monastery. The monks at this Benedictine Monastery make cheeses, fruit compotes and spreads, and ciders, which they sell in the gift shop. Tours are offered, and spiritual walking paths lace the property. Try to time your visit to hear a Gregorian chant service.
Balnea
For a real treat, spend an afternoon at Balnea, a Nordic-style spa, about an hour away. Go. That’s all you need to know. This Nordic spa in Bromont, Quebec, is the ultimate in bliss–calming, spacious, oriented to the outside world and hip. Even if you don’t want to go outside (but hey, the deck is heated!) and soak in the outdoor hot tubs, then plunge in the outdoor cold pools and shower or, brrr, the stream, you can still experience the Nordic-style alternation of hot and cold, but indoors. Relax by the fire; better yet, in the theater watching a movie of the natural world. Splurge on a massage–trust me, it’ll be one of the best you ever had.
And more: tea and spa
The nearby Colby-Curtis House is on my list to return to for afternoon tea.
And, of course, there’s plentiful alpine skiing and snowboarding, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing.
The last word
Memorable