Row Hotel at Assembly Row: contemporary art meets vintage auto

Industrial chic and intriguing art drive the décor and fuel the vibe of the new Row Hotel at Assembly Row. The Marriott Autograph Collection member opened in August 2018, in the Somerville, Massachusetts, neighborhood named for the Ford Motor Company assembly plant that operated here from 1926-1958.

The 158-room boutique hotel, part of the upscale Assembly Row retail, residence, entertainment, and restaurant complex edging the Mystic River, is minutes from downtown Boston via the T, the city’s mass-transit system: The orange line’s accessible Assembly T station is barely a two-block walk over flat terrain.

Magiscopes sculptures shimmer and shine at the Row Hotel at Assembly Row
Reflections, the lobby lounge at the Row Hotel at Assembly Row, invites guests to relax, check out the artwork, and enjoy nibbles and sips. (credit: Hilary Nangle)

Enlightened design

Step inside, and the Row Hotel at Assembly Row sparkles and shines with natural and reflected light. The floor-to-ceiling windows let in natural light that interacts with artist Feliciano Bejar’s Majiscopes. These playful, mixed-media sculptures feature glass prisms and lenses set on bases of artfully arranged, reclaimed automotive parts.

The reflections dance off the sculptures, the mirrored bar, and the reception desks, and around the open and airy lobby lounge, aptly named Reflections. Low couches and chairs, grouped in carpet-defined living room arrangements, give way to tables and chairs and the bar. Here and there, nooks offer more intimate seating. Behind the bar, Reflections continues as a restaurant serving all meals.

A stairway spiraling upwards from the lounge echoes the design motif with a solid, galvanized metal half-wall with railing on one side with a glass refrain on the other. Upstairs, another lounge area opens onto an outdoor terrace. If you’re getting the idea that there are plentiful areas to relax, you’re right. And there are more.

Fitness room in wellness center at the Row hotel at assembly row Boston
The fitness room at the Row Hotel at Assembly Row is especially spacious and it opens onto an outdoor terrace. (credit: The Row Hotel images Assembly Square Boston)

Guest amenities at the Row Hotel at Assembly Row

Hotel guests also have access to a few additional amenities on the second floor. Walk down one art-accented hallway to find the wellness area with a fitness room and indoor pool. Even if you’re not using these facilities, take a peek to see the art displayed in both.

The spacious fitness room is equipped with Matrix bikes, cardio equipment, and free weights. Pedal while watching On-Demand Fitness TV in a wood-floored studio that’s also ideal for yoga or stretching. Help yourself to towels, bottled water, and fresh fruit.

Swim, workout, catch rays at the wellness center
The indoor heated pool at the Row Hotel at Assembly Row offers inside cabanas as well as comfy seating on the outdoor terrace. (credit: Hilary Nangle)

Off the fitness room is the pool, with inviting cabanas lining one wall. Floor-to-ceiling windows in both the pool and fitness room allow in plentiful natural light, and each space opens to an outdoor terrace with comfy seating, running the full length of the wellness space. If the weather had been more cooperative, I would have curled up here with a book and a cup of tea. Making that easy to do was the nearby guest pantry, tucked behind the elevators, with self-serve coffee, tea, bottled water, soft drinks, apples and sweets.

I loved the hotel’s corridors that led to the guestrooms. Instead of the usual bland sameness, these were broken up with alternating carpeted and uncarpeted sections, dark wood against white walls, and art elements such as 3D metal wall and free-standing glass sculptures. This pulled me down the hallway, making the journey to the room more of an adventure.

Guestrooms are nicely decorated and have sitting areas at this Boston hotel
Guestrooms are spacious, comfortable, and accented with contemporary art. (credit: The Row Hotel images Assembly Row Boston)

Guestroom perks and amenities at the Row Hotel

Guestrooms continue the industrial chic theme with clean, contemporary lines. Rooms are spacious, with seating areas, free Wi-Fi, and all the amenities expected at this level. These include a robe, Illy espresso machine, Dammann Freres French tea, safe, and Bigelow toiletries.

I checked into a handsome, corner king suite, with a separate sitting area and bedroom, each offering a large, smart TV with streaming channels (hello Netflix). In the sitting room, a corner couch with a chaise and a work desk made it easy to relax or work. Contemporary abstract artwork, including a 3D metal sculpture, echoed the décor in the hotel’s public areas.

The sitting room opened into a hallway, with a closet and refrigerator stocked with two bottles of complimentary water. A sliding door opened to the bathroom, with a water closet, dual-sink vanity, and an oversized shower with rain and handheld showerheads, along with a barn board wall, which added texture.

In the bedroom, big windows, with both privacy and blackout curtains, provided two different views over Assembly Row’s shops, restaurants, and residences. A mini chaise and king bed dressed in white linens faced the TV, which topped a dresser. The four bedside outlets and two USB ports, along with two adjustable reading lamps and master light switches, made it easy to charge, power, and control my domain, not to mention read in bed.

The only things missing: luggage racks. This seems to be an emerging trend, and one I despise. Few guests want to keep an open suitcase on the floor, and I’m sure hotel management doesn’t want guests to put suitcases atop white bedding. I called down a request, and two were delivered to the room.

Row hotel at assembly row restaurant and lounge
The comfortable Reflections dining room continues the industrial chic decor that features contemporary art. (credit: The Row Hotel images Assembly Row Boston)

Reflections on dining

One evening, I dined in Reflections. The menu offers tapas-style starters, salads, entrées, and desserts. My Asian noodle salad with citrus- and herb-marinated chicken surprised me with its presentation. I thought it would all be mixed together, but it arrived beautifully plated, yet semi-deconstructed: noodles, chicken, and a salad made with baby greens, cucumber, cashews, and avocado, accompanied by a sesame vinaigrette. It not only hit the spot, but also filled me up so I didn’t need to order anything else. My server was friendly, informed, and helpful. Even if he weren’t, I would have asked questions just to hear his wonderful brogue.

I didn’t eat breakfast at the hotel because of the irresistible eye-candy croissants at Paul, a bakery and patisserie in Assembly Row. It’s part of a small, international chain owned by a family that began baking bread and patisserie in France in 1889.

Contemporary art and automotive heritage meet in the decor of the Row Hotel at Assembly Row
Close-up of one of artist Magiscopes, part of artsy industrial chic decor that nods to the era when the location was the site of a Ford Motor Company assembly plant. (credit: The Row Hotel images Assembly Row Boston)

Local pleasures

Another plus of staying at The Row Hotel at Assembly Row is, of course, Assembly Row. Beyond shopping at its myriad upscale factory outlets, it offers choice entertainment options

The biggest lure for those with grandkids is the Legoland Discovery Center, an interactive experience as well as a shop. Afterward, walk over to J.P. Licks for ice cream and/or hot chocolate (I can vouch for the latter).

Lucky Strike Social is a bowling center for the 21st century. Sure, it has eight lanes, but it also offers more than 130 high-tech games, multiple high-def screens, billiards, floor shuffleboards, and food and drink. It’s family-friendly until 8 pm; after that, it’s restricted to ages 21 and older.

An AMC theater offers Dolby Cinema, IMAX, and RealD3D as well as reserved seating, including in recliners.

The pleasures aren’t limited to indoors. Pedestrian and bike paths weave through the riverfront parks and greenways.

And of course, all of Somerville, neighboring Cambridge, and Boston beckon. Which means the Row is a good option if you have grandkids attending college in Greater Boston.

Despite this neighborhood’s automotive heritage, one doesn’t need a car to enjoy almost everything Greater Boston offers. That’s the real perk of staying at The Row Hotel at Assembly Row.

Reflections Bar in Somerville
The bar and restaurant at Boston’s Row Hotel at Assembly Row are aptly named Reflections. (credit: The Row Hotel images Assembly Row Boston)

 

Maine’s luxury, eco-conscious, beachfront Inn by the Sea

In the predawn quietude of a late October morning, clean-up bags tucked in my pocket, I leash my dog Bo, slip out of our suite at the Inn by the Sea, and pad along a boardwalk descending to Crescent Beach. Part of a 243-acre state park in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, the beach throngs with families during the summer months.

We have it to ourselves.

On the beach, it’s easy to forget that Portland, Maine’s largest city and a hot destination for culinary travelers, is 15 minutes away. Grassy dunes, where protected piping plovers nest in the early summer, edge this mile-long sand swath. A mix of woodlands and wetlands back the dunes. A rocky headland, pockmarked with tide pools at low tide, and mostly undeveloped Richmond Island frame the southern end. Lobster boats bobbing on moorings in Kettle Cove frame the northern end. As for the open Atlantic views: “Next stop, Spain,” my mother used to say.

That was then, this is now

Sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean
Some things never change: Sunrise as viewed from the lawn of the beachfront Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Bo & I walk northward, continuing on the path skirting the Kettle Cove section of the park. We stop frequently; Bo to sniff, me to watch the day begin. While much has changed since I grew up in this town, this view has not. Nor has the briny scent of seaweed riding on an ocean breeze, the gentle salt-and-sand skin scrub, the relentless, mesmerizing ebb and flow of waves breaking and retreating, and sea salt seasoning my lips. Add a chowder fog and the bellow of a distant fog horn, and I’m back in my childhood.

This place is embedded in my life’s story. And whenever I return, waves of bittersweet memories wash over me. When I was young, the beloved-but-tired Crescent Beach Inn stood on this site. Every milestone, from birthdays to anniversaries to graduations, was celebrated here.

Crescent Beach in spring, summer, fall, and winter
Crescent Beach invites exploring, no matter what the season. ©Hilary Nangle

When the Inn by the Sea rose in its place, I was out on my own and didn’t pay much attention. But, eventually, when I returned home for celebrations, the inn again became our go-to. When my mother died and was buried just down the road, we gathered here with relatives and friends afterward. When my dad turned 90, the inn’s accessibility made it the ideal place for a family party. And, when he passed a few days later, we closed his life as he would have wanted, with lunch at the inn.

Truth is, the Inn by the Sea has morphed over the decades. Opened as an upscale boutique hotel by the beach, it’s now a tony destination with an international reputation. Top-tier publications regularly praise its green, family-friendly, and dog-friendly policies.

The owners and staff have never let that stellar rep go to their heads. Regular updates keep the inn climbing the social ladder without losing its Maine character or acquiring a pompous ‘tude. At its core, the Inn by the Sea remains an unpretentious luxury beach hotel, one that welcomes families and dogs, strives for sustainability, and pampers all guests, whether human or canine.

Green & giving Inn by the Sea

walkway from the inn by the sea to crescent beach
A gentle stairway and boardwalk descend from the Inn by the Sea through restored rabbitat and woods and over wetlands to a pathway through the dunes at Crescent Beach. ©Hilary Nangle

Eco-conscious guests will appreciate the Inn by the Sea’s commitment to the environment. Not only is it a green-built and especially environmentally-friendly operation, but the inn’s also committed to making the world — or at least its little piece of it — a better place.

Head Gardener Derrick Daly uses predominantly indigenous plants to create a sustainable, chemical- and pesticide-free landscape. The result: gorgeous gardens and lush green lawns that support native wildlife. The property is a Monarch Watch-certified butterfly way station. It also has restored habitat — rabbitat — on the adjacent state park property to help the endangered New England cottontail rabbit.

Great Pond
Join Head Gardener Derrick Daly on a Great Pond Wildlife Walk or explore it on your own. ©Hilary Nangle

During the summer season, Daly gives weekly complimentary garden tours and Great Pond wildlife walks. But I’ve found even when he’s out and about working, he always takes time to answer guests’ questions related to gardening. The inn also offers classes on how to plant for wildlife and beach ecology and a Bug’s Life Garden Tour for children, during which they dress like bugs and learn about the ecosystem from a bug’s point of view (you’ll never step on an ant or swat a fly again).

The inn’s Sea Glass restaurant partners with the Gulf of Maine Research Institute and supports its Out of the Blue program promoting lesser-known fish. This program benefits biodiversity and helps local fishermen expand their markets. The menus promote fresh and local foods — many ingredients are sourced within the community, and there’s a vegan special nightly.

The inn also gives back to the community through programs that provide librarian-requested books for local schools, food for local food banks, and warm clothing for shelters.

Beach chic

collage with pictures of a Cove Suite at the Inn by the Sea
A Cove Suite at the beachfront Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

The Inn by the Sea’s crisp and contemporary beach-chic decor emphasizes comfort and practicality without sacrificing elegance. Think bright and breezy with a nautical vibe. And, of course, it offers the amenities expected of a boutique luxury hotel (e.g. white high-thread-count bamboo sheets, slippers, cozy robes, and marble bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and separate showers). One especially thoughtful touch: a small set of in-room binoculars for spying on wildlife or watching passing boats.

Big windows bring the outside in, and most accommodations also have a deck, patio, or balcony angled for maximum water views. Gas fireplaces in all deluxe rooms and suites make it easy to warm up on chilly evenings or inclement days.

Cove suites and beach suites, all with two bedrooms, have kitchens and front-and-back, direct-to-outside entries. A few of the beach suites are tricked out with two-sided indoor-outdoor fireplaces that let you gaze at the water through flickering flames. Sure, the great outdoors beckons, but so too does curling up fireside with a glass of wine and a good book.

On-site entertainment at the Inn by the Sea

outdoor solar-heated saline pool.
The outdoor solar-heated saline pool. ©Hilary Nangle

During the summer months, Crescent Beach attracts families thanks to its (usually) calm surf, lifeguards, snack bar, shaded picnic area, and bath house. A boardwalk connects the inn to the beach, and an outdoor shower at its head makes it easy to rinse off the sand after beach time. Dedicated dog towels help dry off man’s best friend. All of which helps keep the sand on the shore instead of in a room or suite.

Outside entertainment includes lawn games and firepits (s’mores!) as well as an outdoor solar-heated, saline pool (summer season) and private cabanas (available by reservation).

Art, spa, and fitness

Inn by the Sea as viewed from Crescent Beach
Looking back at the Inn by the Sea from Crescent Beach.©Hilary Nangle

If you don’t want to play outdoors or the weather doesn’t cooperate, this seaside inn makes it easy to cocoon (or work out) in comfort. Ask the inn for its art tour brochure and enjoy a self-guided tour of museum-quality works that pair well with the setting. Among the distinguished artists represented in the inn’s collection: Alfred T. Bricher, Eric Hopkins, Maurice Freedman, and Stephen Etnier.

Or indulge in a facial, massage, or body treatment in the intimate spa. Or workout: The Cardio & Fitness Center is tricked out with two Peloton bikes, Matrix equipment, free weights, other workout aids, and Fitness on Demand videos. The locker rooms have steam rooms and experience showers.

dining deck
Heaters on the porch allow guests to dine on the ocean-facing in the spring and fall. ©Hilary Nangle

And when you’re hungry, the inn’s Sea Glass Restaurant and its dog-friendly pub and ocean-view deck offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner. During my stay, the weather was warm enough to dine on the restaurant’s deck, with heaters providing warmth as evening temperatures dropped.

Local outdoor recreation a plenty

Great Pond
The hiking trail skirting Great Pond is a five-minute walk from the inn. ©Hilary Nangle

All that’s nice, but what I wanted to do was hunker down and spend part of each day enjoying the outdoors. And that’s easy to do at the Inn by the Sea. Crescent Beach and Kettle Cove are just a taste of the local, natural treasures. Bring snowshoes or cross-country skis to enjoy the trails and beach in winter; some also allow fat-tire biking.

Just 0.2 mile from the inn is Great Pond Preserve, a freshwater pond and marsh accessible only by trail. The easy-moderate, 1.5-mile  trail echoes the eastern shoreline, passing through wildlife-rich fields and forests.

Two Lights

Lobster Shack at Two Lights
From late May to mid-October, pair a visit to Two Lights State Park with a feast at the Lobster Shack at Two Lights. ©Hilary Nangle

In theory, it’s possible to walk or ride a bike to Two Lights State Park, the easternmost point in town, but I’ve always driven there to enjoy the nearly two miles of trails on 41 acres of rocky headlands (entry fee charged). During summer, punctuate a visit with lunch or dinner at The Lobster Shack at Two Lights, a real-deal lobster shack on the ledges, complete with crashing surf and diving seagulls.

Local parks and preserves

As a kid, I played in Robinson’s Woods. That was long before this undeveloped treasure became the 145-acre Robinson Woods Preserve. More than four miles of networked trails lace woodlands and fields, crossing streams, edging vernal ponds, and climbing rocky hills. Among the treasures here: centuries-old white pine, red oak, and hemlock trees, as well as plentiful wildlife.

Portland Head Light
Portland Head Light illuminates the ledges off of Fort Williams, a 90-acre town park. ©Hilary Nangle

Another 2.8 trail miles web is the adjacent Stonegate Preserve. These trails link Robinson Woods to my other childhood playground, Fort Williams. This former military base, now a 90-acre oceanfront town park, is home to Portland Head Light. Commissioned in by George Washington and first lit in 1791, it is one of—if not the—country’s most photographed beacons. The 0.4-mile Cliff Walk delivers spectacular views.

Bring or take home a friend

A black dog hoping to be adopted at the inn by the sea
More than 150 dogs have found permanent homes through the Inn by the Sea’s partnership with the Animal League of Greater Portland. ©Hilary Nangle

The Inn by the Sea defines dog friendly; it walks the walk, talks the talk, and wags the tail. Through its partnership with the Animal Refuge League of Greater Portland, the inn has placed more than 150 dogs in permanent homes since 2015. When the league places a dog at the inn,  the staff walks, feeds, and cares for it. That is when guests aren’t doing so, as they’re encouraged to walk and play with the shelter special. Truth is, it’s rare for a dog to be at the inn for more than a week before going home with a guest; some don’t last more than a day.

And finally…

Late in the afternoon on the day before we depart, Bo and I head out on another beach walk. Neither of us is in a hurry; we stop frequently for sniffing and savoring the moment. As dusk cloaks the sky, we mosey slowly back to the inn, arriving as the lights come on, welcoming us home.

Inn by the sea at dusk
Dusk at the Inn by the Sea. ©Hilary Nangle

The Inn by the Sea is open year-round. If you’re on a budget, winter offers the best rates. Also, ask about the annual, off-season Habitat for Humanity promotion offering 50% off the rate for select rooms with a donation of $35 to the organization.

Note: This post was published previously on Getting on Travel, which no longer exists.

See other Maine lodging reviews.

See other dog-friendly accommodations.

Quirky museums: fun, focused, offbeat favorites

Or not.

In any case, quirky museums often deepen my knowledge about an area, its heritage, inhabitants, and culture. And then again, some make me scratch my head and wonder why here.

Here are some of my favorite odd and quirky museums from around the world. And I know these are but a few of the many treasures awaiting discovery around the globe.

Go under, on, and over water in Rimouski, Quebec

Canadian sub Onondaga
Tour the Canadian submarine Onondaga at Point-au-Père Maritime Museum (Chester Beatty Library, Dublin. (©Hilary Nangle)

Discover what it’s really like to be in a submarine at the Point-au-Père Maritime Museum. Retired by the Canadian Navy in 2000, the Cold War-era Canadian sub, Onondaga, now rests on the St. Lawrence River shoreline on the city’s eastern side. Visitors make their way through the entire sub on a self-guided, nose-to-tail audio tour. It covers everything from the engines and crew quarters to the galley and torpedo room. It’s tight and cramped, so not a good choice for those with claustrophobia.

Climb the Point-au-Pic Lighthouse tower and visit the Empress of Ireland exhibits
Climb the Point-au-Pic Lighthouse tower and visit the Empress of Ireland exhibits. (©Hilary Nangle)

And while here, the museum’s other two sights are worth viewing, too. One shares the history of the Empress of Ireland, constructed in 1906 for the Canadian Pacific Steamship Co. It cruised between Quebec City and Liverpool, England, for eight years before meeting colliding with another boat off Point-au-Pic in 1914. Water equal to that filling nine Olympic pools flooded the engine room, sinking the ship in 15 minutes and taking 1,012 of the 1,477  people aboard to a watery grave.

Finally, get a 360-degree, gull’s-eye view by climbing the 128 steps winding up the Pointe-au-Père Lighthouse Tower.

It’s game on at Musée Mechanique, San Francisco

Musee Mechanique in San Francisco
Musée Mécanique is not only a quirky museum, but it’s also a fun one. (©Hilary Nangle)

A cacophony of sounds—dings, buzzes, cackling laughter, and music— attracts passersby to enter Musée Mécanique, located in a warehouse building on San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf.

Edward Galland Zelinsky began collecting antique arcade games and coin-operated musical instruments as a child. And, by the time of his 2004 death, he had bought and traded his way to the world’s largest collection. It comprises more than 300 penny-arcade machines, video and pinball games, slot machines, automatons, mechanized musical instruments, and even a steam-powered motorcycle. These range from the traditional to the truly bizarre and the just plain weird. But all are in original working order.

Zelinsky’s descendants now operate this hands-on, interactive museum. A change machine on the premises makes it easy to have the right amount of quarters for each game. Among the options: Watch macabre executions, operate a working farm with more than 150 moving objects, listen to Laughing Sal (shudder), have a fortune teller predict the future, attend a carnival, test your strength, enjoy dancing and singing marionettes, play World Series baseball, or even watch a peep show.

Do note that some options do not meet contemporary diversity, equality, accessibility, and inclusion cultural standards. Admission is free, so even if you don’t indulge your inner child, you can still take in the show.

Find James Bond at 007 Elements in Sölden, Austria

A helicopter being shot at is just one of the displays at 007 Elements, a quirky museum atop a Tirolian mountain.
Step into the world of James Bond at the mountaintop 007 Elements installation in Austria.  (©Hilary Nangle)

Delve into the world of Bond, James Bond, at 007 Elements. This cinematic installation focuses on Spectre, the Bond movie filmed in Sölden. Getting to the museum is an adventure. It’s built into Tirol’s Gaislachkogl Mountain’s 10,000-foot summit. The easiest access is either by gondola or on skis or snowboard.

In the movie, this is the site of the Hoffler Klinik, where Bond meets Madeleine Swann and where the snow chase begins.

High-tech, interactive exhibits in nine rooms on two floors immerse visitors in all aspects of creating a bond film. That includes stunts, special effects, and cutting-edge technology. You’ll love the Wow! views and be entertained, even if you’re not a Bond fan. Pair it with lunch in the adjacent glass-walled Ice-Q restaurant.

View books chosen for artistic value at the Chester Beatty Library, Dublin, Ireland

The entry of the Chester Beatty Library, a quirky museum focusing on the art of the book.
The Art of the Book is the focus of Dublin’s Chester Beatty Library (©Hilary Nangle)

Feast your eyes on The Art of the Book exhibition at the Chester Beatty Library, located on the grounds of Dublin Castle. American mining magnet, collector, and philanthropist Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875–1968), belatedly knighted for his wartime service, retired to Ireland in 1950. Here he created this library to showcase his rare books, scrolls, and manuscripts from Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, and Europe.

I adore this library and recommend it to anyone visiting Ireland. Here’s what makes this collection special: Instead of choosing works for their literary value, Beatty selected each for its artistic merit. Each is a work of art in itself. Among the treasures in his collection are Egyptian Books of the Dead, richly illustrated Islamic manuscripts, Chinese jade books, Japanese picture scrolls, European printed books, and Old Master prints. Subdued lighting enhances the experience.

Plan a visit to coincide with lunch at the library’s Silk Road Café. The menu, featuring Middle Eastern, North African, and Mediterranean cuisine, pairs perfectly with the exhibition.

Give peace a chance at the Nobel Peace Center, Oslo, Norway

An interactive display inside the Nobel Peace Center in Norway
Just a few hours after the announcement that the 2013 Nobel Peace Prize is awarded to the OPCW, the organization had entered the Nobel Field of the Nobel Peace Center, alongside all the other Peace Prize laureates. (credit: VISITOSLO/Johannes Granseth/Nobel Peace Center)

Alfred Nobel wanted to give peace a chance. During his life, the Swedish chemist, engineer, and industrialist amassed a fortune thanks to his creation of an explosive device to detonate liquid nitroglycerin and to the manufacturing of explosives. But that wasn’t all he invented. Over his lifetime, he registered more than 350 patents.

He also wrote books, poems, and plays, although few were published.  When he died in 1896, his empire comprised more than 90 munitions factories around the world. And yet, Nobel was a pacifist at heart with a keen interest in culture and peace.

The independent, nonpartisan Nobel Peace Center in downtown Oslo shares not only Nobel’s vision but also those of Nobel Peace Prize recipients.

Burned at the stake in the Witches’ Memorial, Vardo, Norway

Witch's Memorial, Norway
One of Norway’s unusual, if not quirky, museums is Steilneset, more commonly known as the Witches’ Memorial. (credit: Roger Ellingsen)

Formally known as the Steilneset Memorial, the Witches’ Memorial honors the 91 people burned here as witches between 1598 and 1692. The contemporary seaside memorial, a collaboration between Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, comprises two separate but adjacent buildings. They top a promontory in the raw and treeless Arctic landscape edging the Barents Sea. The somber yet stunning design emulates sail cloth and codfish drying tracks. It draws visitors into a 410-feet long, black corridor illuminated by 91 small windows, randomly spaced and dimly lit by a single, suspended filament light bulb. Plaques on the walls briefly describe each victim.

Like in the Salem Witch Trials in Massachusetts, Norwegian accusers could report on anyone, turning neighbor against neighbor. Accusations ranged from casting spells on people and animals to causing disease or death. Dancing, drinking, and card games could also result in execution. And if the alleged witch floated, that was enough to prove her guilt and seal her fate.

Burning chair sculpture at the Witches' Memorial, a quirky museum in Vardo Norway
“The Damned, the Possessed, and The Beloved” sculpture at the Witches’ Memorial, Norway  (credit: Jarle Wæhler, Statens vegvesen)

Perhaps the most chilling part of this memorial is “The Damned, the Possessed, and the Beloved,” Bourgeois’ sculpture encased in a dark glass cube. Inside a concrete circle, a steel chair burns eternally, the flames reflected eerily by seven oval mirrors that represent accusers gathered to watch.

Discover Charlie Chaplin’s many talents at Chaplin’s World, Vevey, Switzerland

A quirky museum: Chaplin's World, one of Switzerland's unusual museums, covers the life of Charlie Chaplin
Chaplin’s World, one of Switzerland’s quirky museums, covers the life of Charlie Chaplin

Child actor. Vaudeville comedian. Tramp. Producer. Director. Musician. Composer. Humanitarian. Foreigner. Liberal. Author. Four marriages. Eleven children. In a life that began in London poverty, progressed to California, and ended in Vevey, Charlie Chaplin experienced all this and so much more.

Immensely popular in the 1920s and 1930s, Chaplin’s fan base declined in the 1940s, when he married his fourth and much younger wife, Oona, faced scandal, and was accused of being a Communist sympathizer. His passport was revoked on a working trip to London with his family. Eventually, Chaplin resettled in a handsome manoir amidst park-like grounds in Vevey, Switzerland.

This property, now Chaplin’s World, brings this brilliant creative mind to life by immersing visitors in his world. Enjoy interactive exhibits and intriguing displays in the house and the purpose-built studio building.

Enter a smuggler’s den at the Customs Museum, Gandria, Switzerland

The customs museum is one of Switzerland's focused and unusual museums
The Customs Museum fronts on Lake Lugano near the Italian border. (© Hilary Nangle)

Alpine mountains plummet to Lake Lugano, which laps Switzerland’s and Italy’s shorelines. That made this lake in the southwest corner of the country a favorite among smugglers. Historically, many in this once-poor area traded in contraband to supplement their meager incomes. They smuggled food-related and other goods, including tobacco, alcohol, sugar, and salt. Now, illicit trade might include drugs, people, animals, and money.

The three-story mustard-yellow Customs Museum is wedged between a mountain and the water’s edge. Sited in a former border guard post in the Cantine de Gandria, this museum focuses on the work and the lives of Switzerland’s Customs officers and border guards. Begin in the past and work your way to the present, viewing permanent and special exhibitions covering smuggling, counterfeiting, and illegal trade. Pair a visit with lunch at one of two grotto restaurants within easy walking distance.

The easiest — and really, only — way to get to Switzerland’s Customs Museum, also known as the Zoll Museum and the Smuggling Museum, is by passenger ferry from Lugano.

Read about Maine’s offbeat, focused, and quirky museums.

 

 

Hartstone Inn review: Checking In & Dining Out

Hartstone Inn, Camden, review. Image depicts the exterior of this handsome, three-story, Mansard-roofed Victorian. Camden’s Hartstone Inn pairs a lovely inn with an excellent restaurant in a convenient, walk-to-everything downtown location. Former owners Chef Michael Salmon and his wife, Mary Jo Brink, inked the inn on Maine’s culinary map. And the current owners aim to keep it there.

The inn comprises three buildings. The three-story mansard-roofed main inn houses a cozy lounge, the Electric Daisy restaurant, 11 guestrooms and suites (three with private entrances), and a massage room. The adjacent Manor House has three suites. The Hideaway, a block away, houses seven rooms and suites (including one ideal for families). Tea and coffee are always available in the main inn, where guests in all three buildings come for breakfast.

What it’s like to stay in the Hartston Inn

five photos depicting the loft room in the Hartstone inn including one from the entry and others highlighting amenities.
The L-shaped loft room in the Hartstone Inn. ©Hilary Nangle

Arriving guests may find it confusing initially, as there isn’t a lobby or a staffed check-in desk. But I was quickly greeted, and one of the bar workers carried my bag up steep stairs to my second-floor room.

Guest rooms and suites

No two rooms in the Hartstone are alike. Although decor and amenities vary from room to room, all welcome guests with a chocolate bar and have bottled water and robes. Some have jetted tubs, gas fireplaces, or both.

I split my stay between two rooms in the main inn, the loft for the first night and the Paris room for the second. In both, the décor’s contemporary vibe complemented the historical architecture. Each used books chosen for color, not content, as a design element.

Four images depicting various rooms in the Hartstone Inn.
Clockwise from top left: Paris room, Paris room, mansard room, Toscana room ©Hilary Nangle

The spacious L-shaped loft featured a queen bed and a gas fireplace, while the smaller Paris room had a king bed. Both had comfy seating areas, flat-screen TVs, and updated bathrooms with walk-in showers. The loft had heat pump air-conditioning, while Paris had a widow model. While I loved the overall feel of the loft, especially its tucked-in-the-back sense of privacy, it lacked suitable bedside reading lamps, which Paris had. Honestly, both rooms were lovely, but I preferred the loft’s end-of-the-hallway, back-of-house location sense of privacy.

Breakfast, included for overnight guests, is a self-serve buffet in the lounge. It comprises scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, housemade pastries, fresh fruit, granola, and yogurt. Guests staying more than a day or two might want to stroll downtown for a different menu.

What it’s like to dine at the Electric Daisy in the Hartstone Inn

collage showing the check-in desk with menus, a menu, a dining room table, and the bar.
The inn’s casual fine dining restaurant serves a three-course menu. And there’s a cozy lounge with a fireplace as well as outdoor tables.

Even if you don’t stay at the Hartston Inn, dine at its restaurant, perhaps after popping into its cozy bar for a cocktail. Snag a fireside table if the weather’s inclement.

Chef Dustin Shockley prepares a three-course, set-price menu ($65pp). Shockley honed his skills at several acclaimed Portland restaurants, including Five Fifity-Five, The Front Room, Sur Lie, and Solo Italian. And he’s put it all together here, adding his creativity and drawing from locally sourced ingredients.

Collage showing bread, sorbet, salads
clockwise from top left: green pea salad, bread, sorbet, young broccoli (@Hilary Nangle)

The ambiance is casual fine dining — no tablecloths, but good service and excellent fare. The restaurant wasn’t full the night we dined, but I imagine it could feel a bit cramped if it had been.

On the June night we visited, the menu offered a choice of three appetizers, four entrées, and three desserts. We also enjoyed the focaccia bread, and a sorbet intermezzo served between the app and entrée. Each course offered a taste of spring.

We began with the green pea salad (green pea hummus, smoked carrot, tiny radish, hakurei, pepitas and sunflower) and the young broccoli (sunny egg, salmon roe, fingerling chips, carrot vinaigrette). Both were as pleasing to the eye as to the palette.

collage showing entrees and dessert
clockwise from top left: black lime quail, creme Louisa, pan-roasted salmon, chocolate terrine (@Hilary Nangle)

After the sorbet, we feasted on pan-roasted salmon (spicy cabbage cake baby bok choy, scallion chutney) and black lime quail (saffron couscous, apple, pickled carrot, scallion spinach emulsion).

As for dessert, how can one say no to a chocolate terrine (Amarena cherry, vanilla Anglaise, crispy chocolate pearls) or a Creme Louisa (lemon gel, strawberry, creme fraiche panna cotta)?

Bottom line: We thoroughly enjoyed everything and didn’t leave a morsel behind. The Electric Daisy’s menu changes regularly. Here’s the current menu.

And finally…

The Hartstone Inn and Electric Daisy are located in downtown Camden. When here, it’s easy to park your car (free) and forget about it. It’s easy to spend a few days here shopping, boating, feasting, and simply relaxing. But if you need more stimulation, there’s plenty available in the area, from great hiking to intriguing museums.

Some of the main inn rooms face Route 1. We didn’t have a problem with noise, but light sleepers might want to request a room away from the road.

If you stay in Manor or the Hideaway, you have to come to the main inn for breakfast.

The inn is somewhat pet-friendly. One dog weighing 35 pounds or less is permitted in three guest suites, all with private entrances, for $75 per night.

The Hartstone offers a special that pairs a stay with a two-hour sail on Penobscot Bay. The boat leaves from Camden Harbor, a 5-minute walk from the hotel. Also within walking distance are shops, restaurants, bars (check out Lucky Betty’s across the street), and outfitters offering cruises, paddles, and other fun activities.

The rewards for coming during the quiet season include cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, tobogganing, and even alpine skiing with ocean views at the Camden Snow Bowl.

The Hartstone Inn is one of seven members of the Enthusiast Hotel Collection.

See more Checking In reviews.

 

 

Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival is a downeast Maine treasure

Maine has plenty of festivals, but my favorite is the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival, an all-around good-time event. I attend almost every year, and in 2022, I spoke with Bill Shamel about what visitors can expect. While the vendors and musicians may change slightly from year to year, the overall festival remains one of Maine’s best. It always takes place on the last full weekend of July.

10 reasons to attend Maine’s Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival

  1. It’s held on the ballfield in “downtown” Grand Lake Stream, which comprises a store, a school, and, well, that’s about it.
  2. It’s inexpensive ($10 per day or $15 for the weekend)
  3. It’s a manageable size, with plenty of room for kids to run and dogs to roll.

    A collage showing works by a mosaics maker, quilters, a fabric artist, and a woodcarver.
    A ampling of the vendors. ©Hilary Nangle
  4. The artisans, usually more than 50, most of whom hail from Maine, are extremely talented and eager to share their knowledge. And since all exhibitors are under tents, it’s weatherproof, too.

    Canoe-building demonstration
    Canoe-building demonstration. ©Tom Nangle
  5. There’s always a display of antique and contemporary quilts and another of canoes and canoebuilding.

    A Grand Laker canoe
    It’s a short walk from the festival to the lake for a paddle or a swim. Above: a Grand Laker canoe. ©Tom Nangle
  6. The festival is within walking distance of the stream, a favorite with fly fishermen, as well as the dam and the lake. That makes it easy to take a break and cool off with a swim on a hot day.

    A pizza on a paddle is positioned in a wood-fired oven
    Sebastian’s Wood Fired Oven is just one of the vendors in the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival food tent. ©Hilary nangle
  7. Food on the festival grounds is usually excellent (lobster rolls, wood-oven pizza, fancy burgers and hot dogs, and of course, strawberry shortcake).

    three photos depicting musicians at the festival
    If you don’t come to the festival for the art, come for the nonstop music. ©Hilary Nangle
  8. The music. Live and all-day long, including bluegrass, acoustic, and even brass. Trust me; you haven’t lived until you’ve heard a string band accompanied by a horn.
  9. A children’s arts & crafts program lets kids ages 4-12 create their own souvenirs.
  10. The Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival is just a good time, relaxed in that way only Washington County, in way, way Down East Maine, is.

Lodging usually books quickly. Also consider Princeton, Calais, and even Eastport, about an hour distant or across the border in St. Andrews or St. Stephen, N.B.

Consider making a long weekend of it and looping into Aroostook County or over to the Maine Highlands. Here are a few ideas about that route.

Checking in: The Federal Hotel & 555 North Restaurant

exterior of The Federal hotel's original federal-style building with the East wing in the background.
The Federal hotel’s original federal-style building with the East wing in the background. ©Hilary Nangle

Over the decades, I’ve watched what’s now The Federal hotel change owners, names, and styles. I think the current version will last. Reopened in downtown Brunswick in March 2022, The Federal hotel now oozes a contemporary and welcoming, pet-friendly, boutique-hotel style. And if that’s not enough to lure you, then the hotel’s restaurant, 555 North, seals the deal.

What to expect at The Federal hotel

interior views of The Federal hotel's lobby.
The Federal’s two-story lobby set the tone for the hotel’s contemporary decor. ©Hilary Nangle

The two-story lobby, with two walls of windows, a grand stairway, an artsy two-story bookcase that echoes the windows, contemporary artwork, chairs and couches in conversational groupings, and a second-floor balcony, sets the tone. Designer Annie Kiladjian of Annie K’s Designs created a light, bright, and inviting space with white walls, wooden floors, and a gold, blue, and charcoal color scheme accented by leafy green plants.

A market in the hotel offers snacks and light breakfast fare,
Purchase snacks or light breakfast fare at the hotel’s market. ©Hilary Nangle

A market pantry offers snacks, light breakfast items, and nonalcoholic beverages. Coffee and tea are available here in the morning as well as on each guest floor.

An elevator and stairs access all floors. The ground floor provides direct access to the parking lot and has two workout rooms, one with aerobic equipment, and the other with yoga mats, a bench, balls, and free weights. Don’t miss the moss artwork on the stairs between the ground and first floors.

Moss artwork accents the stairway between the ground and first floor.
Resist the urge to touch this gorgeous work of moss art scenting a stairway. ©Hilary Nangle

On the second floor, two small meeting rooms open off the balcony area, where there’s also seating.

Guestrooms at The Federal

A sampling of the guest rooms in the historical Capt. Daniel Stone building.
Guest rooms in the historical Capt. Daniel Stone building are spacious, and the decor complements the architecture. ©Hilary Nangle

The hotel’s 30 guestrooms are split between two attached buildings. Capt. Daniel Stone built the original 1810 federal-style building. The four rooms (two with king beds and two with queen beds) and two suites (both with king beds, neither with elevator access) in this building have been updated to honor the period architectural details, such as fireplaces, while lightening the decor and adding marble-accented bathrooms and contemporary, comfy seating.

Four views of a corner room in the East Wing. ©Hilary Nangle
Four views of a corner room in the East Wing. ©Hilary Nangle

Guestrooms in the newer East Wing offer king, queen, and double-queen beds and a king suite. All have been updated in the contemporary, light, and bright maritime style. Bathroom renovations are planned. Our corner room had a refrigerator, two easy chairs, an ergonomic desk chair, and a three-drawer bureau — great for those staying longer who want to unpack. Bedside tables with lights made it easy to read in bed.

All guestrooms have custom-made Serta mattresses and Cuddledown duvets topping white linens (loved the beds!). And cozy robes and bottled water are provided.

What it’s like to dine at 555 North

Sign for 555 North
555 North

In 2003, Chef Steve Corry, named Best New Chef by Food and Wine in 2007, opened 555 in Portland with his wife, Michelle, who manages the front of the house. It closed in 2020, but now it’s back as 555 North, located in Brunswick’s The Federal Hotel. And, as expected, it’s fabulous: the New England farm-to-table fare, the design, the decor: everything!

Images showing the botanical accents decorating 555 North
555 North’s botanical-themed decor includes handprinted murals.@Hilary Nangle

Annie K’s design features hand-painted botanical murals. Big windows, handsome wood tables, and custom chandeliers keep with the theme. Previously, the porch was a separate room. Now the wall between the main room and the porch is open, with plants separating the two rooms and providing privacy for tables. A separate room, with bird-cage chandeliers, can be shut off for a private party or serve as additional dining space.

When we dined, 555 North offered two menus. A three-course menu themed to complement Titanic! at the Maine State Music Theatre attracted the pre-theater crowd. We dined from the regular menu, comprising small plates, sharables, large plates, and housemade desserts. It also offers a bar menu, served at the horseshoe bar, on couches by the fireplace, or at tall-top tables.

Clockwise from the top left: simple greens salad, figs in a blanket, braised short ribs, Hudson Valley duck breast, chocolate lava souffle, with warm salted caramel crème anglais. ©Hilary Nangle

Between us, we ordered the simple greens salad and figs in a blanket for starters. Next, we moved on to braised short rib and Hudson Valley duck breast. And then we split a chocolate lava souffle, with warm salted caramel crème anglais, for dessert. Everything was superb. This restaurant is a welcome addition to Brunswick’s dining scene. But it’s no secret, so be sure to make reservations.

And finally…

The Federal and 555 North are located in downtown Brunswick. The convenient locations is a short walk from Maine Street’s shop, restaurants, and the Androscoggin riverfront with its fenced dog park, boat put-in, and paved offroad trail, and a pleasant stroll from Bowdoin College and the Maine State Music Theatre. Note that the hotel overlooks Route 1 on the backside. We didn’t have a problem with noise, but light sleepers might want to request a front-facing room away from the highway. If I visit again, I’ll bring Bo. Dogs are welcome for $50/night.

See more Checking In reviews.

The Federal hotel, with the original Capt. Daniel Stone federal on the right and the newer East wing on the left.
The Federal hotel, with the original Capt. Daniel Stone federal building on the right, connected through the mezzanine-style lobby to the newer East wing on the left. 555 North is located in front section of the East wing. ©Hilary Nangle

Checking in: Norumbega, Maine’s castle hotel

The Norumbega Inn, Camden, Maine
The Norumbega Inn, Maine’s castle hotel, Camden, Maine

New owners of the Norumbega Inn, Maine’s castle hotel, have refurbished this architectural gem from the ground-floor suites to the fourth-floor Penthouse. Proprietors Brett Haynie and partner Will Tims, an architect, replaced the interior furnishings, opting for comfort and simplicity over antiques and florals. And they let the handsome mahogany woodwork and patterned wood floors shine while adding a contemporary kick and a breezy vibe.

Sleep like royalty in Maine’s castle hotel.

A few of the guest rooms at the Norumbega Inn, Maine's castle hotel in Camden.
A few of the guest rooms at the Norumbega Inn, Maine’s castle hotel in Camden. ©Hilary Nangle

Each of the 11 spacious guest rooms has a sitting area; many have ocean views (opt for the third-floor rooms or fourth-floor Penthouse for the best); some have gas fireplaces and/or private balconies or terraces, and a few have window seats (I’m a sucker for those). The bedding is sublime.

A selection of images showing the Penthouse suite at the norumbega Inn
The Penthouse Suite at the Norumbega Inn. ©Hilary Nangle

Bathrooms vary in size, but all are tile and marble. Some have deep soaking tubs, and most have separate glass showers. Shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion fill sustainable containers. Cozy robes are provided.

A selection of images showing the two-room with balcony library suite
Readers and book lovers will not want to leave the Library Suite, which befits a castle hotel. ©Hilary Nangle

Of particular note are the Penthouse Suite, large enough to hold a small party, and the Library Suite, rimmed with an upper balcony lined with books. Views from the Penthouse’s private balcony and its huge window with window seat take in island-salted Penobscot Bay. Although the Library lacks an ocean view, it has a cozy nook with a separate bed and a couch.

Plentiful space to spread out

The living room at the Norumbega Inn, with the piano in the turret.
The living room at the Norumbega Inn, with the piano in the turret. ©Hilary Nangle

One thing I love about Maine’s castle hotel is the abundance of public space. It begins outdoors, with four acres of land peppered with plentiful Adirondack chairs, a gazebo, and a fire pit. Add the wrap-around back porch with tables, chairs, and couches. And the shared balconies on the second and third floors.

The cozy alcove, with a fireplace and gorgeous mahogany woodwork on the stairway's first at the Norumbega Maine's castle hotel.
I love this cozy alcove on the first landing of the stairway. It overlooks the living room. @Hilary Nangle

Upon entry, there’s intimate seating on a stair landing, with built-in cushioned benches and two chairs grouped by a corner fireplace. The large living room, with back-to-back L-shaped couches and a gorgeous fireplace, gives way to an alcove with a grand piano. The living room also flows into the two-room dining area, where breakfast is served.

Images showing the Norumbega Inn's dining rooms and porch. The woodwork and fireplaces befit Maine's castle hotel.
The dining rooms open to the wrap-around porch. Don’t miss the cookies on the buffet in the afternoon ©Hilary Nangle.

The table-filled room, with a fireplace, of course, opens to the wrap-around porch (a favorite for breakfast when the weather’s fine). The second features a handsome built-in dining buffet, a massive ornate hearth, and two more back-to-back couches. Cookies magically appear on the buffet each afternoon.

The four-seat bar and the cocktail menu
The inn’s bar may be small, but there’s plentiful seating in the public rooms or on the porch. ©Hilary Nangle

From there, it’s onto the small cocktail bar. Although there are only four seats at the bar, all the public rooms and inviting porch beckon.

During the summer, the owners expect to add a small bites menu and open it to the public on some nights. In addition, once a month, the Norumbega will offer a dinner open to guests and the public. Catering is provided by E. Wales Hospitality (which, prior to relocating to the area, operated The Blue Spoon in Portland).

Breakfast fit for a king and queen

Eggs Benedict with a side saladGuests are encouraged to help themselves to the European-style breakfast buffet on the dining room sideboard. Local cheese, meats, freshly baked breads, fruit, local yogurt, house granola, and other deliciousness make it too easy to fill up before the main entrée is served. That was a scrumptious egg benedict paired with a side salad on the morning of my stay.

A short history of Camden’s Norumbega Inn

Maine-born Joseph Barker Stearns deserves recognition for revolutionizing the fire alarm system and inventing the double telegraph. After selling his rights to Western Union, he traveled extensively, eventually returning to Maine to build his castle, which was completed in 1887. It remained a private home until 1984. Since then, it’s operated as an inn under different owners.

View from one of the inn's shared balconies over the four-acre backyard. ©hilary Nangle
View from one of the inn’s shared balconies over the four-acre backyard. ©hilary Nangle

And finally

The Norumbega Inn is located along Route 1 on the northern end of downtown Camden. The inn is open year-round, and if it’s too pricey for your budget during peak season, consider a late fall or winter visit. Camden and Rockland offer plenty for visitors in the quieter seasons. Or I can imagine curling up with a good book and a glass of wine in a window seat and being perfectly content.

Meet the Norumbega Inn’s proprietors, Brett Haynie and Will Tims, in this video.

 

Read other Checking In hotel reviews.

Maine’s Best Quirky Museums & Offbeat Sights

Saturn is one of the sightsalong the Maine Solar System Model,
Find Saturn along the Maine Solar System Model, one of the world’s largest scale models, stretching along Route 11 in Aroostook county. It’s one of Maine’s best quirky museums and offbeat attractions.  ©Hilary Nangle

Like most states, Maine has plentiful art museums, transportation museums, and historical sights. But it also has some of the best quirky museums and offbeat attractions.

Looking for a trophy marlin caught by Ernest Hemingway? Wooden figures carved in Lithuania? Umbrella covers? An orgone accumulator? You’ll find all these, plus Micky Mouse and Betty Boop, Bigfoot, a giant wooden horse, interplanetary travel, and more. Many of these quirky Maine Museums and weird or wonderful offbeat sights will appeal to travelers of all ages.

Before continuing, please give a moment of silence in honor of the quirky Maine museums that no longer exist. R.I. P. Wiscasett’s Musical Wonder House, Thorndike’s Bryant Stove & Doll Museum (weird to the point of almost being creepy), and Jonesport’s Salmon Museum. Every time one of these unique—in the true sense of the world—sites close, Maine loses a bit of its, well, Maineness.

And now, on with the show!

Best Quirky Maine Museums

International Cryptozoology Museum, Portland

Bigfoot exhibit at the International Cryptozoology Museum, a quirky Maine museum
Bigfoot resides at the International Cryptozoology Museum, one of Maine’s best quirky museums. ©Hilary Nangle

An eight-foot-tall Bigfoot likeness greets vis­itors at the International Cryptozoology Museum. Say, what? Cryptozoologists study and search for legendary or unsubstantiated animals such as the Loch Ness monster and Sasquatch. Displays include skulls and footprint castings that lend credence to the existence of these rumored beasts, as well as kitsch such as movie props and souvenir memorabilia. Renowned cryptozoologist Loren Coleman began this museum in his home. But his extensive collection outgrew that and is now located at Thompson Point. Note that plans are underway to move it to Bangor.

Umbrella Cover Museum, Peaks Island

Nancy 3 Hoffman is the owner/curator/guide at the Umbrella Cover Museum, one of Maine's quirky museums
Nancy 3 Hoffman is the owner/curator/guide at the Umbrella Cover Museum, another quirky Maine museum. ©Hilary Nangle

When it comes to quirky Maine museums, this one might top the list. Nancy 3. Hoffman (yes, 3) displays her Guinness World Record-holding collection, now numbering more than 2,000 umbrella covers (yup, umbrella covers at the Umbrella Cover Museum on Peaks Island. Covers (the sleeve you lost or tossed) are grouped by theme, and there’s even an adults-only exhibit. Most visits end with Hoffman singing and playing “Let A Smile Be Your Umbrella” on her accordion. To get there, take the Casco Bay Lines Peaks Island ferry, about a 20-minute ride from the Portland waterfront. The museum is maybe a 5-minute walk from the island dock.

Maine Antique Toy and Art Museum, Waldoboro

Indulge your inner child at the Maine Antique Toy and Art Museum, home to an extensive collection of antique toys and origi­nal comic art geared to nostalgic adults, not kids. Among the residents are the original Mickey Mouse, Betty Boop, Felix the Cat, Little Orphan Annie, Yoda, and an exceptional collection of Lone Ranger art, toys, and memorabilia. The museum, housed in a 200-year-old house, welcomes adults and well-behaved children. Also on the premises is an art gallery displaying owner John Fawcett’s works and an antique shop specializing in toys. This may not be an especially quirky Maine museum, but it sure puts the fun in funky.

Poland Spring Museums

Looking updwards to the dome of the open, octagonal Maine State Building at Poland Spring. It and the other sights at Poland Spring Resort are some of Maine's best quirky museums.
The three-story, octagonal Maine State Building and the adjacent Poland Spring Bottling Museum and Spring House share the story of the water that made Poland Spring world famous. ©Hilary Nangle

Poland Spring Water’s legendary healing powers helped it win the Medal of Excellence at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair and the Grand Prize at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. And it allowed Hiram Ricker to grow a small family hotel into the 300-room Poland Spring House. An architectural and technological marvel in its day, it also was home to the world’s first resort golf course.

The resort hosted the country’s wealthiest and most influential people, including U.S. presidents, Babe Ruth, Alexander Graham Bell, Mae West, Betty Grable, and Judy Garland. Charles Lindbergh flew over the hotel on July 25, 1927, but crowds prevented him from landing.

After the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, Ricker purchased the octagonal Maine State Building and transported it to his 5,000-acre property by train and horse-drawn wagon. Now the Poland Spring Museums, comprising the Maine State Building and the Poland Spring Museum and Spring House, share the property’s story.

A 1975 fire destroyed the original Poland Spring House, but the Poland Spring Resort still operates and draws budget-conscious travelers to the 500-acre property.

L.C. Bates Museum, Hinckley 

trophy marlin caught by Ernest Hemingway on display at the L.C. Bates Museum, a weird Maine museum
Ernest Hemingway caught this trophy marlin on display at the L.C. Bates Museum. ©Hilary Nangle

Offbeat doesn’t begin to describe the L.C. Bates Museum, a way-cool, way-retro trea­sure chest with a broadly eclectic collec­tion focusing on natural history. Among the gems are meticulous wildlife dioramas, hun­dreds of mounted rare birds, priceless Native American artifacts, and a trophy marlin caught by Ernest Hemingway. In addition to poking around the three floors of exhibits, wander the trails outdoors. The seasonal museum mounts special exhibitions each summer. Here’s more about the Bates Museum.

William Reich Museum, Rangeley

Orgonan, the William Reich Museum
Although Orgonan, the William Reich Museum, isn’t open in winter, snowshoers and cross-country skiers are welcome to explore the trails lacing this quirky Maine museum’s grounds. ©Hilary Nangle

Controversial Austrian-born psychoanalyst and natural scientist William Reich was part of Freud’s inner circle and considered one of his most promising students. Later, differences of opinion drew them apart. An expert on sexual energy, Reich conducted experiments and created inventions such as the orgone accumulator, the medical DOR-buster, and the cloudbuster.

In 1942, he purchased 175 acres in Rangeley, naming the property Orgonon. In 1948, he began building the Orgone Energy Observatory, now listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. When the FDA filed a claim against Reich in 1954, the judge ordered the destruction of much of his work. Reich died in 1957 and is buried on the property. The William Reich Museum highlights his life and works; the panoramic views from its rooftop deck are spectacular.

Other quirky Maine museums

When you’re dying to know more about mortuaries, the Rest in Peace Museum, Island Falls, has you covered. Fourth-generation mortician Tony Bowers and his wife, Carmel, share the tools of the family trade, with artifacts dating from 1900.

One ringey-dingey: Show the kiddos life before cellphones at The New England Telephone Museum, Ellsworth. This interactive museum allows visitors to operate a switchboard and make calls on a hand-crank or dial phone.

Offbeat Maine Attractions

Langlais Sculpture Garden, Cushing

A few of the works displayed at the outdoor Langlais Sculpture Preserve, an outdoor quirky Maine museum
All ages enjoy exploring the Langlais Sculpture Preserve, one of Maine’s offbeat treasures. ©Hilary Nangle

You’ll find an elephant, bears, a 13-foot horse, Nixon, and even a spoof on neighbor Andrew Wyeth’s Christina’s World at the Bernard Langlais Sculpture Preserve in Cushing. A Maine native and classically trained artist, Langlais hit the big time in New York before retreating to a 90-acre farm in Cushing, Maine, to pursue his artistic vision. During the 11 years before his 1977 death, Langlais (a.k.a. Blackie) created more than 65 wooden sculptures on this property.

His widow, Helen, left it all to Colby College, which worked with the Kohler Foundation to restore the works. The nature-and-sculpture preserve, established on a portion of the artist’s homestead, celebrates this legacy. A quarter-mile ADA-accessible path and a half-mile trail wind through the sculptures; a wheelchair is available when docents are on site. The Georges River Land Trust is the steward of this offbeat Maine attraction.

Wild Blueberry Land, Columbia Falls

Images depict Wild Blueberry Land and pies being made to sell at this quirky Maine museum
Wild Blueberry Land is a delicious, educational, yet quirky Maine museum and attraction. ©Hilary Nangle

What’s not to like about a blueberry-shaped attraction dedicated to sharing the history, science, and culture behind wild blueberries, especially when it doubles as a scratch-made bakery? Resist the urge to go straight to Wild Blueberry Land’s pies, bread, jams, and other goodies. Instead, visit the Maine Wild Blueberry Museum first.

Wild blueberries grow in barrens on low-spreading bushes. And they’re smaller and far richer in nutrients than the readily available high-bush varieties. Cooks love them because they retain their shape when baking. The museum explains the geological history of wild blueberries and how climate change affects growth. It also covers the human history of cultivation. And it covers research, health benefits, and nutrition. Afterward, go ahead: Treat yourself to a wild Maine blueberry pie.

FYI: Helen’s Restaurant in nearby Machias is justifiably famous for its wild Maine blueberry pie. Order a slab warmed, perhaps topped with a scoop of blueberry ice cream.

South Solon Meeting House, Solon

Colorful frescoes cover nearly every interior surface of the South Solon Meeting House
Colorful frescoes cover nearly every interior surface of the South Solon Meeting House.©Hilary Nangle

Don’t let the rural setting or the exterior of the serene, white clap­board, circa-1842 New England-style South Solon Meeting House fool you. Although it retains its original architectural features, inside, it’s a riot of color and art.

Back in the 1950s, fresco artists juried by the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture painted nearly every square inch of the walls and ceiling with interdenominational religious scenes. Contemporary interpretations of The Last Supper, angelic musicians, fishermen, and church-going families cover the walls, ceiling choir loft, and entry of this nonsectarian meeting house. It’s rare not to have the place to yourself when visiting. Here’s what it’s like to visit the South Solon Meeting House.

Ambejejus Boom House, near Millinocket

Ambajejus Boom House as seen from the dock
The restored Ambajejus Boom House brings to life Maine’s great logging era. ©Hilary Nangle

Dip into Maine’s logging heritage at the Ambajejus Boom House, built in 1906 on the shores of Ambajejus Lake. For 65 years, river drivers rode logs downstream from where trees were felled to this rest stop. The logs were “boomed out” (collected into acres-wide booms) and then towed to the sawmills.

Thank former river driver Chuck Harris for restoring this National Historic Register property and filling it with lumbering-era artifacts. The only access to this boom house is via boat or floatplane. Both New England Outdoor Center and the Big Moose Inn rent canoes and offer guided trips. If paddling, opt for a guide.

More recently, Harris restored the nearby (relatively) Chesuncook Lake Boom House. Although remote, it’s accessible by road. Both are near Baxter State Park and the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument. Here’s more about Maine’s Boom Houses.

Alexander Art Trail, Alexander

Alexander Art Trail
The Alexander Art Trail is way, way off the beaten trail in way, way down east Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

One doesn’t expect to find life-size wooden sculptures carved by Lithuanian artists deep in the williwacks of Maine’s down east woodlands. But that’s where you’ll find the Alexander Art Trail. You’ll find more than two dozen sculptures here, some on a trail, others in the woods just off it. None are identified, but many will be recognizable.

Grazina and the late Roland Paegle created this after visiting European sculpture parks. Roland’s driftwood sculptures are also scattered about the property. The park is on unpaved back roads off Route 9, west of Calais. Read more about the AlexanderArt Trail.

Maine Solar System Model, Aroostook County

a young girl approaches a planet at one of the stops along the Maine Solar System Model, one of Maine's best quirky museums and offbeat sights
A stop along the Maine Solar System Model, one of Maine’s best quirky museums and offbeat sights. ©Hilary Nangle

Interplanetary travel is possible with the Maine Solar System Model, which stretches nearly 100 miles between Houlton and Topsfield in Aroostook County. The 93-million-to-one, three-dimensional scale model comprises the sun, planets, dwarf planets, and moons for Earth, Saturn, Jupiter, and Pluto. All the major planets are large enough to be seen while driving along Route 1, where one mile equals the distance between Earth and the Sun, and the speed of light is 7 mph. Ready for launch? Here’s more about traveling the Maine Solar System Model.

 

Monhegan Island: a time capsule of American Art movements and styles

Delve into the history of American art on Monhegan Island. This rugged, remote, and mostly roadless island sits roughly 10 miles off mid-coast Maine. Scarcely one square mile in size and laced with about 12 miles of trails, Monhegan Island is a favorite among hikers, birders, dreamers, and especially artists.

The cliff-edged headlands, crashing surf, towering spruce, jaunty fish houses, and weathered lighthouse have inspired generations of painters since the late 19th century. Among the icons: George Bellows, Robert Henri, Edward Hopper, Rockwell Kent, Louise Nevelson, and three generations of Wyeths.

“One of the amazing things about seeing art at the Monhegan museum is that, in almost all cases, when you see a painting in the museum, you can see the actual motif by taking a short walk.”

“If you look at the history of American art, there have been several different schools and movements over the past couple of hundred years, and most have had representation on Monhegan,” says Ed Deci, former director of the Monhegan Museum of Art and History, which celebrated its 50th anniversary season in 2018.

The museum’s collection is unusual in that everything in it relates to one, small island. “One of the amazing things about seeing art at the Monhegan Museum is that, in almost all cases, when you see a painting in the museum, you can see the actual motif by taking a short walk,” Deci says.

Reuben Tam painted “Island Space” on Monhegan Island in 1971. (credit: Monhegan Museum of Art and History)

Monhegan: The island

Maine’s Wabanaki called the island Monhegan, which translates roughly as “the island.” European explorers sailed into the cozy harbor sheltered by Manana Island in the early 17th century: Champlain stopped by in 1604, and John Smith sang the island’s praises in 1614. Throughout its history, Monhegan was—and still is—dependent on the sea. Fishing and tourism are the economy’s backbone. It wasn’t until 1858, when painter Aaron Draper Shattuck arrived, that artists —and the summer rusticators who followed them—discovered Monhegan.

Among those summah folk was Theodore Edison, son of inventor Thomas Edison. A frequent visitor, Edison loved the island’s wilderness, and in 1938, concerned over potential development, began purchasing property as it became available. In 1954, he formed Monhegan Associates, one of the first land trusts on the East Coast. Today, nearly three-quarters of the island is under conservation easement.

In addition to protecting the island’s “wild-lands,” Monhegan Associates’ mission is also “to collect, collate, maintain, and preserve for posterity, records and archives respecting the flora, fauna, and human inhabitants and sojourners on [Monhegan], and to make the same publically available for educational, literary, scientific, and historical research study and consultation.” Within a few years, it soon became apparent that a dedicated space was necessary to hold and share the many items islanders donated to the collection.

The Monhegan Museum of Art and History’s replica 1857 Assistant Keeper’s House, part of the museum complex on Lighthouse Hill. (credit: Monhegan Museum of Art and History)

The Monhegan Museum on Lighthouse Hill

In 1959, the Coast Guard automated the signal from Monhegan Light Station complex topping Lighthouse Hill, and the keeper’s house and outbuildings were declared surplus. Edison realized these buildings would be ideal for an island museum. Island residents responded by donating photographs, documents, furniture, equipment, Native American artifacts, memorabilia, and works by members of the island’s art colony. Of note is a gramophone. “That doesn’t sound like a particularly big deal,” Deci says, “but ours happens to have been brought to Monhegan by Thomas Edison.”

In 1968, the museum opened for its first full season in the 1874 Keeper’s House. In 1972, the 2,500-pound signal bell for the Manana Fog Signal Station, made famous by Jamie Wyeth in his painting, “Bronze Age,” was flown by helicopter Manana Island to its current base in front of the museum.

By the early 1990s, Deci realized the museum needed more space to house its growing collection. So, in 1998, it opened the replica 1857 Assistant Keeper’s House, now the site of its annual summer exhibition. And it added a climate-controlled vault in a replica barn to house its collection. More recently, it restored the 1850 light tower.

Rockwell Kent painted on Monhegan Island, Maine
Rockwell Kent’s “Village at Night”  (credit: Monhegan Museum of Art and History)

The Kent Fitzgerald Legacy

Rockwell Kent, who dropped out of architecture school and came to Monhegan Island at Robert Henri’s urging, designed and built a studio and home on Horn Hill between 1906 and 1910. “Kent was unusual in wanting to live here,” says Bob Stahl, director of the James Fitzgerald Legacy and associate museum director. “He went whole hog — not just painting, but also lobstering, carpentry, cleaning latrines, blasting wells, and digging graves.” The only one of Henri’s students to stay on the island year-round, he built a few houses, including the one now owned by artist Jamie Wyeth.

Between 1912 and 1946, portrait and landscape artist Alice Kent Stoddard, Kent’s first cousin, lived and worked in Kent’s studio. James Fitzgerald, who first came to the island as a student in 1924, acquired the studio in 1952 and the house in 1958. When Fitzgerald passed in 1971, heirs Anne and Edgar Hubert, Monhegan summer residents, executed his will. That included artwork as well as the home and studio. “The house and studio have an interesting provenance,” Stahl says. “Everyone is related by blood or friendship to Kent.”

See the studio used by Rockwell Kent, James Fitzgerald, and Alice Kent Stoddard on Monhegan Island, Maine.
Visitors can view the Kent-Fitzgerald Studio, shown, as well as the house. Both Monhegan Island properties are listed on the National Trust for Historic Preservation Historic Artist’s Homes and Studios Program. (credit: Hilary Nangle)

In 2004, summer resident Anne Hubert bequeathed the Kent-Fitzgerald House and Studio, along with Fitzgerald’s remaining estate, to the museum. The Fitzgerald Legacy, created to preserve, protect, and promote his work and steward the buildings, owns more than 600 of Fitzgerald’s works. And selected watercolor and oil paintings are displayed in the studio and house, which have been restored to appear as they did when the artist lived and worked here. In 2018 the National Trust for Historic Preservation added both to its Historic Artist’s Homes and Studios Program.

Monhegan island, Whitehead cliff.
White Head is Maine’s highest cliff. The cliffs and crashing surf have inspired many artists who’ve painted on Monhegan Island. (credit: Hilary Nangle)

The art of Monhegan Island

One of the special attributes of the Monhegan Museum is that every single work in its collection has come as a gift. “People who love Monhegan and who believe it is important to get art created on Monhegan back to Monhegan have made gifts of art to the museum,” Deci says. “In some cases, people have bought works explicitly because they thought the works belonged in the museum’s collection.”

The works span the centuries, schools, techniques, and movements, but all have one thing in common: Monhegan

The works span centuries, schools, techniques, and movements, but all have one thing in common: Monhegan. It’s worth noting that the museum only shows works by deceased artists. Among them are Zero Mostel, Reuben Tam, Elena Jahn, John Hulterg, Lynne Drexler, and Frances Kornbluth.

Rockwell Kent American artist on Monhegan island.
Rockwell Kent is among the many artists who have painted Monhegan’s White Head. (credit: Monhegan Museum of Art and History)

Art from the museum’s collection also accents the exhibits in the Keeper’s House. “Art is interspersed with it, usually related to what’s around it,” Deci says.

The gifts keep coming. A few years ago, the museum received works painted between the late 1940s and the 1980s by Geraldine Tam, wife of artist Reuben Tam. “She painted exquisite watercolor paintings of island wildflowers, and we got the whole collection,” Deci says.

“Jamie and Phyllis Wyeth have the largest collection of Monhegan paintings by Kent of any person or institute in the country,” Deci says. “Jamie loves Kent’s work; when he had his first show in New York, he used the money he made to buy a Kent.” And he’s indicated that he intends to donate the collection to the museum.

The Monhegan Museum and affiliated Fitzgerald Legacy own many works by James Fitzgerald.
In many ways, Monhegan Island looks the same now as when James Fitzgerald painted September Monhegan in 1953. (credit: Monhegan Museum of Art and History)

Step into a Monhegan Island painting

Once you’ve viewed the artworks, close the circle by seeing their inspiration. Leith MacDonald offers art tours of Monhegan, taking visitors to some of the island’s iconic landscapes, such as White Head, Maine’s highest cliff; Burnt Head; Gull Rock; and Cathedral Woods, famed for its fairy houses. He also visits village sites, pointing out artist residences and The Trailing Yew, a rustic guesthouse that’s sheltered many artists over the years. Along the way, he shares history and lore.

Monhegan’s artists have created a visual history of the island, documenting what it looked like and who was here from the late-18th century to now. “Alice Kent Stoddard painted a lot of portraits—the lightkeeper, fishermen, children. They’re a record of who was here in the 1930s,” MacDonald says, sharing photos from a book. He points to other photos of other paintings to show that today’s forested lands were once barren.

On the headlands, he gestures to the seascape, which seems familiar because so many artists have painted here. “The rocks haven’t changed; thank Edison for that,” he says, pointing out the nooks and crannies where artists set up their easels.

Much has changed on Monhegan, and yet, so much remains the same, including the easel-toting artists who still come each summer to capture the island’s light, landscapes, and seascapes.

Artists set up with easels and umbrellas on Monhegan Island.
Artists began coming to Monhegan Island, Maine, in 1858, and they still come today. (credit: Hilary Nangle)

Tips for visitors to Monhegan Island

  • Monhegan is rugged and rustic. It is not a choice for those with mobility issues, as there is no public transit, and getting around means walking on rough dirt roads and hiking paths.
  • Check current days and hours of operation and hours of the Monhegan Museum and the Kent-Fitzgerald House and Studio.
  • Contact Leith MacDonald to arrange a guided art walk on Monhegan.
  • Find general info about Monhegan here.
  • Three passenger ferries service Monhegan: Monhegan Boat Line, from Port Clyde; Hardy Boat Cruises, from New Harbor; and Balmy Days Cruises, from Boothbay Harbor.

    Read more about Monhegan Island

Read about Maine in Yankee Magazine’s Annual Travel Guide

 

Please pick up the May/June issue of Yankee Magazine’s Annual Guide to read my article sharing the joys of Quisisana, a music-themed family resort edging Kezar Lake in Lovell, Maine. Trust me; this place will steal your heart.

Also, in this issue: I contributed places to the Editors’ Picks: Maine places to Eat & Drink, Stay, and Play.