Wondering what’s new or changed for Maine summer 2023. I can help with that. One thing that’s constant is change. Properties change hands, restaurants open and close, etc. I’ll aim to keep track of it all here. And I’ll update this post whenever I have news to share.
Again, if you’re relying on one of my previous reviews here or in one of my Moon-series guidebooks, a friend’s recommendation based on a visit last year, or review sites such as Trip Advisor, the experience may be different if ownership has changed. And, if you’re a returning guest, expect changes.
And expect more changes as the employee crisis combined with Maine’s demographics and lack of affordable housing is hitting the state’s tourism hotspots especially hard.
If location is everything, the Boston Park Plaza has it in spades. Sited in the Back Bay, this historic hotel puts the best of Boston within walking distance. Just steps away are the Boston Public Garden, Boston Common, Newbury Street’s boutiques, the Freedom Trail, and the Theater District. If the weather’s moody or the distance seems too far to walk, the Arlington stop on Boston Metro (a.k.a. the T) is barely a block away.
This 1,060-room hotel opened its doors as the state-of-the-art Statler Hotel in March 1927.
Thanks to a $100 million, lobby-to-roof renovation completed in 2016, this grande dame is chic once again, with contemporary style and amenities that honor its rich history.
Statler Hotel: That was then
If you look carefully, you’ll find signs in historic Boston Park Plaza’s lobby of its original bones, but a recent $100 million renovation has given it a contemporary feel.
And rich that history is, starting with location. E. M. Statler built his then 1,300-room hotel on the beachfront site where British troops landed before the Battle of Lexington. That waterfront disappeared in the mid-1800s, when a landfill project created Boston’s highly desirable Back Bay.
Among Statler’s brilliant ideas: Every room offered a private bath, a radio, a headboard-mounted reading lamp, a daily newspaper, a telephone, stationery and writing utensils, a servidor panel allowing valets to deliver laundry, and the forerunner of the Do Not Disturb sign. Each floor had a concierge-style attendant, and the hotel also offered a lending library.
Statler didn’t stop there. He envisioned a city within a city. A hospital occupied the 14th floor. A 30-chair (!) barbershop and shoeshine were located in the basement. The original artwork and antiques in the hotel’s Spanish Renaissance-style lobby fulfilled Statler’s desire to have it resemble an art museum.
Adding to the sumptuous feel were gold leaf-accented coffered ceilings, Terrazzo flooring, painted tiles from Seville, and travertine stone columns sourced from volcanic formations below Mt. Vesuvius. Even that paled with the hotel’s Grand Ballroom, inspired by the Palace of Versailles. Think parquet floor, Baccarat crystal chandeliers, an 18th-century museum-quality Flemish tapestry, and period sconces.
For 50 years, the Hotel Statler reigned as New England’s largest independent hotel and the world’s eighth-largest hotel. No surprise that it hosted all but two U.S. Presidents as well as a Who’s Who of international politicos, such as Winston Churchill, and Hollywood stars, including Judy Garland and Katherine Hepburn.
Boston Park Plaza: This is now
An updated studio suite in the Boston Park Plaza hotel.
That Spanish Renaissance-style lobby now welcomes guests with marble floors, jazzy patterned carpets, and comfy furnishings upholstered in red, gray, and cream. Partial panel curtains help break up the grand space into cozier sections.
My spacious, corner Studio Suite juxtaposed contemporary amenities with a historical view. I looked out over the Park Plaza Castle, a four-story, granite building, with a six-story tower. Boston architect William Gibbons Preston designed the Romanesque Revival armory, which was built between 1891 and 1897 and is now a National Historic Landmark.
View from my Studio Suite in the Boston Park Plaza hotel (credit: Hilary Nangle)
My spacious room, decorated in brown, grey, and white, offered a leather sofa and chair and a bed dressed in white linens with an upholstered headboard. The dual bedside table lamps had both USB ports and electrical outlets. A large marble-topped desk, with ergonomic chair, stretched along one wall and also housed a minibar with a Keurig. The windows actually opened, and blackout shades kept out the city lights.
In addition to the usual luxury hotel amenities, I found robes and slippers in the especially large large closet. A white tile-and-marble bathroom completed the suite.
Dining options at the Boston Park Plaza
Strip by Strega
Let’s start with Strip by Strega, developed by popular Boston restaurateur Nick Varano. It’s billed as a “high-energy concept… [that] fuses together the look and feel of a sophisticated, uber-modern steakhouse with that of a sleek, high-end lounge.”
I’d say that’s pretty accurate. It’s contemporary yet comfortable with design, lighting, and vibe that signals this place doubles as a nightspot. And the food is excellent, with menu options that include fresh seafood.
Off the Common, the Boston Park Plaza’s signature restaurant invites guests to linger in the hotel’s lobby.
The hotel’s mezzanine-wrapped lobby doubles as Off The Common, the Plaza’s signature restaurant. Open daily for breakfast (buffet and a la carte), lunch, dinner, and cocktails, it offers both lounge- and restaurant-style seating options. The menu emphasizes fresh and locally inspired cuisine, from soups, salads, and shareables to dinner plates, such as burgers, lobster roll, steak frites, and desserts. Gluten-free and vegetarian options are available. I didn’t dine here, but it was a busy, happening place. On Thursday evenings, the hotel offers Live in the Library. Guests can enjoy live music while enjoying cocktails and dinner fireside.
I took advantage of the room-service menu, and my order arrived when promised, professionally served, nicely plated, and still hot.
Other dining options in the Boston Park Plaza include M.J. O’Connors, an Irish pub, and a Starbucks.
Other amenities
The Lynx Fitness Club is also home to the Lynx Top Golf Swing, where guests can book a session to practice or with instruction by a PGA pro.
The 20,000-square-foot Lynx Fitness Club, in the hotel’s basement, offers workout rooms and classes as well as aerobic- and strength-training equipment. Personal training is available. Also here is New England’s only Top Swing Suite. Book it for year-round practice and PGA-certified instruction.
I took advantage of the mezzanine-level FedEx Business Center to ship home a package and for printing out boarding passes.
The hotel also prides itself on being one of Boston’s best dog-friendly hotels. It backs that up with no restrictions on breeds or sizes and offering pet-sitting and dog-walking services through the concierge. Up to two dogs (and dogs only, sorry kitties) are allowed per room for a $75 cleaning fee/stay.
The Cat Ferry is back. This 3.5-hour cruise aboard a high-speed catamaran makes traveling easy between Bar Harbor, Maine, and Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. And not only that, it cuts the driving time in half.
This international ferry departs Bar Harbor at 3pm EDT arriving in Yarmouth at 7:30pm ADT. And it departs Yarmouth at 9:30am ADT, arriving in Bar Harbor at noon EDT. Remember there’s a one-hour time difference as Nova Scotia is on Atlantic time while Bar Harbor is on Eastern time. Passengers need to allow time for showing paperwork on prior to boarding on either end as well as time to clear through Customs & Immigration when disembarking.
Numerous lounging areas, order-at-the-counter food service, and a bar make it easy to get comfortable once aboard. Movies are shown on overhead TV screens. And the ferry’s gift shop invites browsing.
Guests can access the outdoors on both sides as well as in the back of The Cat ferry. On my trip, I found the back well sheltered from the wind and quite pleasant, although that likely changes with the weather and wind direction.
On our way over, we were entertained in the bar/front lounge by an acoustic duo: He played guitar, she played flute, and both sang—think easy listening.
Food is served at three locations: one in the front, one in the back, and one mid-ship. Breakfast pastries, pre-made sandwiches, soup, and baked goods are available midship. You’ll find made-to-order coffee drinks and a selection of loose teas along with gelato in the back, and pizza, wings, nachos, and the like in the bar area at the of the ship.
Required paperwork
To sail aboard The Cat, you’ll need appropriate ID: a passport, passport card, enhanced driver’s license or enhanced ID card; those not born in Canada or the US may need a visa.
Canada’s Bay Ferries Limited operates The Cat, which is registered in the U.S. and leased from the U.S. Navy. This 349-foot-long (106m) ship began its sea life as a high-speed inter-island ferry in Hawaii named ALAKAI (Hawaiian for Sea Path). In 2009, the U.S. Navy acquired it, using it in 2010 for humanitarian relief in Haiti.
It remained homeported on the East Coast until April 2016, when Bay Ferries leased it and refit it to operate between Bar Harbor and Yarmouth. When put in service that year, it participating in rescuing two Maine lobstermen during high-seas rescues.
Perhaps my favorite moment aboard was watching the harbor pilot from Bar Harbor board the ship to guide it to the dock. The pilot knows where the hidden ledges are, where the channels narrow, and tidal changes. Although The Cat ferry slowed down a bit, both boats are moving when the pilot boards, as you can see from this video.
Love oysters? Thirty coastal Maine oyster farms will be shucking and serving at the Maine Oyster Festival, which debuts in Freeport June 24-26, 2022. This celebration of all-things oyster takes place in L.L. Bean Discovery Park, Bean’s Moose Parking Lot, and the Bean’s Flagship Store patios. Admission is free.
What to expect at the Maine Oyster Festival
Mmmm! oysters!
In addition to the opportunity to taste the nuanced differences between oysters grown in various locations, activities include:
Oyster of the Year Award: Judged by industry experts in a blind tasting of all participating oyster farms.
Shucking competitions: anyone can enter a heat on Saturday. The Big Shuck professional’s contest starts at 11 am on Sunday.
Tastings: Try a flight of four signature wood-fired oysters with compound butters curated by sustainable seafood expert, chef, and author Barton Seavor. And taste the festival’s signature mignonette created by Seaver and FIORE Artisan Olive Oils and Vinegars.
Opportunities to learn about the science of oyster faring from the Maine Aquaculture Association and Maine Sea Grant.
Shop! (Of course, this is Freeport) Maine-made products used for preparing and serving as well as products made from oyster shells and other industry byproducts.
Educational activities hosted by Maine non-profits dedicated to keeping Maine’s waters safe and clean.
Free hands-on crafts programs for kids with the Boothbay Sea and Science Center.
Evening events at the new! Freeport Oyster Bar: live music, local craft beer and drinks, and oysters, of course.
While admission to the festival is free, tastings and some activities are not. Find more details here.
More than 150 oyster farms salt Maine’s 3,500-mile coastline. You’ll see oyster farms on coastal rivers and in bays. Maine’s cold ocean waters allow oysters to grow slowly. And that gives them time to absorb the flavors of where they’re grown. Factors affecting taste include how salty the water is and what foods the oysters eat. In addition to flavor differences, oysters vary in size and somewhat in shape.
At these three Maine waterfront hotels, you can fall asleep listening to the waves lap and awaken to lobster boats chugging out to sea. Two are built on wharves, so the tide ebbs and flows beneath them. And the third is so close to the shoreline that you could cast a fishing line out the window.
You can’t get much closer to the action than a room at the Tidewater Motel. It hangs over Carvers Harbor, one of Maine’s busiest traditional fishing harbors. Getting there is easy; take the ferry from Rockland.
I’d advise against bringing a car. The ferry terminal is approximately a 10-minute walk from the motel. If you need assistance with luggage, you can arrange for a pickup. (See more on Vinalhaven).
Much like the Tidewater,The Inn on the Harbor hangs over a working harbor, with big windows framing the view and huge decks for watching the boats come and go (see my Inn on the Harbor review).
It’s smack downtown, putting restaurants and shops within steps. The mail boat ferrying passengers to Isle au Haut, home to a remote section of Acadia National Park, is about a 15-minute walk away.
Avoid the street-side rooms and opt for one with a water view out to Isle au Haut. All guests have access to the main deck, but some rooms offer private decks. A couple of rooms are pet-friendly.
Note: A new innkeeper took over for the 2022 season.
• Inn at the Wharf, Lubec
I thought I’d reviewed this previously, but I found that I’d written it, but never published it (hitting myself on the head). Here it is:
If The Inn at the Wharf were any closer to the shoreline, I could cast a fishing line out my window. Instead, from my room in this Maine waterfront hotel, I gaze at lobstermen hauling traps and fishermen unloading their catch. And I listen to boats chugging along, watch some of the nation’s biggest tides and earliest sunrises, and breathe brine-scented air. It’s not just the location on the eastern shore of the nation’s eastern-most town that makes this lodging special, but also the story behind it.
In the mid-1900s, this town was home to 23 sardine factories. When the final whistle blew in 2001 at Lubec Sardine Co. Factory B, the last one operating, it signaled the end of an era. Five years later, Victor and Judy Trafford spied the oceanfront property with its new wharf and to-die-for views over Passamaquoddy Bay and purchased it.
While debating what to do with the derelict factory, the Traffords began buying lobsters and crabs, and later eels and periwinkles, from local fishermen. They used the basement-level holding tanks for sorting and storing the catch before sending it to market. Next they renovated the factory’s upper level into modern guest accommodations, including suites and two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartments.
In addition, the inn rents bicycles and kayaks, offers whale-watching tours, and operates a restaurant in the factory’s former boiler room.
One Sixty Five, a boutique inn on Park Row in downtown Brunswick, Maine, rose from the ashes of the former Brunswick Inn. Of course, I’m exaggerating. The 1848 Federal didn’t burn to the ground in March 2021, but smoke and water damage closed the inn. And that allowed innkeeper Eileen Horner to remake the main inn and distinguish it from the Carriage House and The Cottage.
Horner not only updated and rejuvenated the guest and public rooms, but she also opened the inn’s dining room to the public for breakfast (7-9am Mon-Fri., 7-10am Sat.-Sun.). And she opened Pub 165, a comfy spot with a huge fireplace, for late afternoon and evening drinks and light fare (4-8pm daily). Or settle onto the porch, watch people stroll or run by the inn, see what’s happening on the town mall (a.k.a. town green), and rock away any stress.
The green, with its mature shade trees and classic bandstand, resembles a Currier & Ives lithograph. A lively farmers’ market attracts shoppers on Friday mornings, an ice rink lures skaters in winter, and food trucks operate on its Maine Street edge.
One Sixty Five‘s location puts the best of downtown within easy walking distance. Attend lectures and sporting events or enjoy entertainment such as the Maine State Music Theatre or the Bowdoin International Music Festival on Bowdoin College’s campus. Or walk to numerous shops and restaurants.
When I entered the inn, I saw and felt the difference immediately. Horner brightened it, using soothing colors and blending antiques with contemporary and comfy furnishings. Guests here enjoy traditional hospitality, with a warm welcome.
The double-front room that was the parlor now serves as the dining room. Decor emphasizes simplicity, with soft beige walls, white trim, hardwood floors, accent rugs, tables with mismatched chairs, and artwork loaned from a local gallery. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the town mall.
The breakfast menu ranges from house-made baked goods to Maine wild blueberry pancakes. Many ingredients are sourced locally. Hint: the challah French toast with warmed maple syrup is divine. (note: breakfast is not included for guests)
A small library, decorated in cream and blue, provides a spot for guests to relax. Books, games, and puzzles invite hanging out. And four leather club chairs surrounding a large blue ottoman are hard to resist.
The library also accommodates overflow from the adjacent Pub 165. The huge hearth, dark green walls, wood floors, and leather couch evoke an English pub. In winter, a wood fire makes it all the more inviting.
Another hint: in fine weather, take your drinks and head to one of the white L.L. Bean rockers on the front porch. And perhaps order a cheese and charcuterie plate for pre-dinner nibbles.
Like the public rooms on the first floor, the four spacious guestrooms and two suites (great for families) on the second and third floors honor the inn’s architectural heritage while adding updated style and amenities.
Beds are dressed in white with Brahms Mount throws draped across their foot. Bedside lamps make reading easy. Most have at least an easy chair or two. And all but one are painted in calming neutral colors. Tiled bathrooms complement the updates.
And tucked into what must have been a closet is a one-person reading nook; the perfect solution for when one wants to read and the other wants to sleep.
I wanted to pick a book from the shelves, wrap the throw around my shoulders, and settle into the armchair for a good read.
The Carriage House & The Cottage at One Sixty Five
Two other lodging options are tucked behind the inn amidst shade trees, manicured lawns, a patio area, and gardens.
The Carriage House, with six guestrooms and a suite, appeals to those who prefer not to interact with others. Here, guests are provided with a key code for self-check-in. And a common room is stocked with self-serve snacks and beverages.
The (pet-friendly) Cottage, with a kitchenette and sleeping loft, is ideal for those who can’t leave their furry pal behind and those staying longer than a few days.
Vinalhaven island makes a wonderful day trip. It’s also great way to escape a heat wave. Not only is the ferry ride a nice way to get on the water and enjoy the views, but islands tend to be a bit cooler and breezier than the mainland. Hop the morning ferry from Rockland, and 75 minutes later, you’re on the island.
You can easily explore Vinalhaven on foot, but a bike makes it easier to get around. You can rent bicycles as well as kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards from the Tidewater Motel, on island, but advance reservations are key.
Lane’s Island Preserve, one of about a dozen or so great places for walking and picnicking is about a 10-minute walk out the other side of town (turn right off the ferry, pass through downtown, turn right on Water St. and continue on Lane’s Island Rd.). Trails ring and lace this island, which is connected via causeway to Vinalhaven. For more info on hiking and an island map showing preserves and roads, visit Vinalhaven Land Trust.
If you’re renting a kayak, ask to be dropped at The Basin. If you’re biking, follow the Old Harbor Road out to it for a scenic pedal. Otherwise the usual bike route is the Round the Island Road, with perhaps a detour to Geary’s Beach or for an extended tour, to Brown’s Head Light on the Fox Islands Thorofare.
In any case, don’t miss a swim in one of the island’s two public quarries, Booth’s and Lawson’s, each about a mile, give or take, outside of town.
If you’re a birder, book a trip with John Drury. He gives excellent birding tours as well as sightseeing cruises aboard his six-passenger boat. Or explore the island from the water with Vinalhaven by Boat.
That former Odd Fellow’s Hall with the American flag-motif windows? That’s where artist Robert Indiana lived (famous for his LOVE, EAT, and other sculptures; find out more at The Farnsworth Museum in Rockland).
And don’t miss the Vinalhaven Historical Society Museum, on High Street (up the hill). Lots of info on the island’s past, including it granite glory days (in the 1880s, nearly 4,000 people lived on Vinalhaven and neighboring islands).
Pick up an island souvenir in town at one of the shops and galleries. Go Fish has a little of this and more of that as well as great penny candy selection. New Era Gallery carries primarily works by island artists; Wind Horse Arts is Alison Thibault’s working glass studio (nice jewelry!); for handmade, Maine-made, and unique finds, pop into Zach’s Shack. If you need a good read for the ferry ride home, pop into Second Hand Prose, run by the Friends of Vinalhaven Public Library.
The village is about a 10-minute walk from the ferry dock. En route is Surfside, home of what may be the state’s best fishcakes. If you’re lucky, you can snag a seat outside on the deck (breakfast is served until 11 a.m.).
You can get cheese and fancy goods at Island Spirits, basics at the grocery. Love doughnuts? Sea’s Bakery has you covered.
Before departing, go ahead, treat yourself with a lobster roll at Greet’s Eats: Just look for the red food truck on the water side a bit before the ferry terminal.
The Sand Bar has stood the test of time for family friendly fare for lunch or dinner. The Pizza Pit is another family pleaser, offering pizza, subs, pastas, salads, and more. For fancier dinner fare, head to Dot & Millie’s (had me at lobster pappardelle).
Skål, a speakeasy, offers small plates and live entertainment.
While Vinalhaven island is a great day trip, it’s even better, if you can swing a couple of nights out here. The Tidewater Motel makes that easy. It literally hangs over the Carver’s Harbor. Wake up to the chugga chugga of lobster boats in the morning. Rates include a continental breakfast and island shuttle service.
Wondering where to start when it comes to finding the best of Rockland? Right here.
Rockland rocks. Named a Distinctive Destination by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, this small Maine coastal city edging Penobscot Bay retains the heart and spirit of a working town. It also buzzes with the added pizazz of excellent museums, a vigorous arts scene, surprising restaurants, and independent shops, and it delivers a more than generous serving of lobster, lighthouses, and windjammers.
Not only will you find the best of Rockland, but plunk down in Rockland for a few days, and you’ll experience the best Maine has to offer—without having to put endless miles on your vehicle. Heck, thanks to air and bus service and a compact downtown, you can even get by without a car.
Why do I love Rockland? For so many reasons, I had to be a bit creative when naming my top 10.
Begin at the Maine Lighthouse Museum, after soaking up the facts, legends, and lore, put on your walking shoes for the nearly one-mile jaunt over the jetty to Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse at the tip (volunteers usually open it on weekends and for special events). Next hop in the car (or get on a bicycle) and mosey to the Owls Head Light, then segue over and down the St. George Peninsula toMarshall Point Light.
Oh, yes, Rockland, home of the Maine Lobster Festival, has you covered, with some form of the tasty crustacean on nearly every menu in town. Prefer to roll up your sleeves and muckle on to one at an oceanfront picnic table? Yup, got that, too.
When it comes to Maine lobster shacks, it doesn’t get any better than McLoon’s in Spruce Head, about 20 minutes south of downtown Rockland. It takes a little effort to find it, but persevere; trust me. It’s one of the headliners on my list of favorite Maine lobster shacks. No wheels? Head to Claws, on the northern end of downtown.
Or go a bit fancier at Archer’s on the Pier. Chef and owner Lynn Archer’s lobster club won on celebrity chef Bobby Flay’s Throwdown.
It wouldn’t be a stretch to call Rockland Maine’s most art-centric town, thanks to the fabulous Farnsworth Museum, the new in 2016 and fabulous Center for Maine Contemporary Art, and the galaxy of top-notch independent galleries surrounding them.
Take it all in on the monthlyFirst Friday Art Walk, when participating museums usually offer free admission.
Catch a concert, lecture, performance, or film at the Strand, a beautifully restored 1923 theater downtown.
Lining Rockland’s Main Street are independent shops, thrift stores, boutiques, and galleries. These include The Grasshopper (this, that, and everything in between), Archipeligo (made on the islands or along the coast), Hello Hello Books (new and used), and Fiore (extra virgin olive oils, mmm!). And then, branch out from there.
C’mon, you know you’ve always wanted to see these funny-looking birds, a.k.a. the clowns of the sea. If you can’t manage a trip to see the puffins, Rockland’s Project Puffin Visitor Centerwill bring them to you. Watch live videos of nesting puffins, explore interactive exhibits, and view films highlighting the successful efforts to restore and protect them. During July and August, free science programs for kids are offered on Tuesday nights. And a lecture series takes place on Wednesday evenings. And you can find out about seasonal puffin-viewing trips.
For transportation buffs, the choices are plentiful. The Owls Head Transportation Museum, just over the town line in Owls Head, is a must. Everything on view—wheels and wings—is in primo condition, and on special event weekends throughout the summer, the planes soar, the bikes roll, and the cars motor by.
Newer on the scene is the waterfront Sail Power & Steam Museum, where displays highlight Rockland’s maritime heritage. If Capt. Jim Sharp is there, ask him for a tour. Trust me, you won’t forget Jim or his stories.
Rockland vies with Camden for the title of Maine’s windjammer capital. About half of the Maine Windjammer Associationfleet is based here. If you can’t get away for a few days, book a two-hour sail aboard A Morning in Maine, a 55-foot ketch designed by noted naval architect R.D. Culler and built by Concordia Yachts.
Best vantage points for viewing and photographing windjammers sailing in and around Rockland Harbor are the Rockland Breakwater and Owls Head Light (Hint: Best photo opp is during the annual Maine Windjammer Association Parade of Sail event in July).
Eat!
Portland may get all the attention, but the restaurants in Rockland, Maine, are gaining recognition far beyond the city and state. Start with two-time James Beard Best Chef award winner Melissa Kelly, who owns Primo, a farm-to-table restaurant on the southern edge of town (Be sure to tour the gardens and animal pens before dining in the restaurant or upstairs lounges).
Stroll down Rockland’s Main Street, and the possibilities include the region’s best Japanese, Suzuki’s Sushi Bar, and best wine & tapas, In Good Company. Indulge in breakfast at Home Kitchen Cafe (the huevos rancheros, with house-made corn tortillas, are a slam dunk). Not to mention Sammy’s Deluxe, North Beacon Oyster, and the food trucks down by the harbor, and…and those are just off the top of my head. And do make reservations.
From Rockland, board a ferry for Vinalhaven or North Haven island for a fun and easy day trip. @Hilary Nangle
Island hop: Vinalhaven, North Haven, & Monhegan
Ferries tether Vinalhaven, North Haven, and distant Matinicus to Rockland. Both Vinalhaven and North Haven are great day trips. Ferries are also the least expensive way to see the coast from the water. Don’t even consider bringing a car to either island, unless you’re planning a long stay and need it to get around (you can rent one on Vinalhaven); foot or bike are the preferred methods of navigating both.
The ferry to Monhegan departs from Port Clyde, about a half-hour’s drive south from Rockland and well worth a day trip.
After you’ve checked out the best of Rockland, there’s still one more best, and that’s lodging. The hotels in Rockland, Maine, may not be numerous, but they are inviting.
The Berry Manor Inn, Granite Inn, and Limerock Inn are located in the city’s historic district and within walking distance to all downtown attractions; all three are elegant, and each has its own style.
Also in town are two boutique hotels, the historical Lindsey Guesthouse and the ultra-artsy boutique hotel 250 Main facing Harbor Park (I love this one; each floor doubles as an art gallery with curated exhibits, and the rooftop deck is divine).
The Rockland Harbor Hotel is a masterful renovation of a former lackluster property sited across from the ferry terminal, which puts all of downtown as well as some islands within easy walking distance.
Although actually just over the border in Rockport, the Samoset Resort is within walking distance of the Rockland Breakwater. This full-service oceanfront property has an 18-hole golf course, spa, and all the other whistles and bells you’d expect. The Mediterranean restaurant is very good, the you can’t beat sitting on the ocean-view deck.
Boothbay Harbor — The 2022 Windjammer Days festival celebrates working women on the waterfront. Sixty years ago, Captain Marion Dash, the first female boat captain on the Maine coast, founded Windjammer Days to celebrate Boothbay Harbor Region’s maritime heritage. This year’s event, Sunday, June. 26-Saturday, July 2, will honor 16 contemporary working women.
Also new this year are two events, Harbor Aglow and the Antique Boat Parade Pier Party.
Women in the Windjamer Days spotlight
Among the women being honored are:
Katie Doughy Maddox has always loved being on the ocean. Growing up she spent a good amount of time at the shipyard her father co-founded back in 1977. Today, Katie is running the yard as President of Washburn & Doughty which builds some of the world’s finest steel vessels.
Linda Greenlaw wears many hats, but she is most proud to say, “I am a fisherman.” The only female swordfish captain in the U.S., Linda’s remarkable career includes authoring nine books and co-authoring two cookbooks, staring in a Discovery Channel reality series, charter boat captain, lobster fisher and more.
Virginia Oliver is still lobstering at 102 years old and she will tell you she is going to keep on doing it as long as she can. She and her youngest son Max, who is 83 years old, go out 3 days a week in season.
Barbara Scully, marine biologist and aquaculture pioneer was instrumental in the resurgence of oysters in Maine, perfecting techniques are are still used by many oyster farmers today.
Also being honored Elaine Jones, who was responsible for the Maine State Aquarium’s creation as well as for the restoration and creation of the interpretive program at Burnt Island Light.
Major Windjammer Days events
When an event has been held for 60 years, you know the organizers have it nailed. These are the festival’s signature events:
June 26
HarborAglow: New this year, this celebration of lights includes boat, slip, and mooring lighting, from 8:30-10pm, and a boat parade at 9pm.
June 28-29
Pirates of the Dark Rose
June 29:
Gathering of the Fleet
Cod Fish Races
Street Parade
Fireworks of the Harbor
June 30:
Antique Boat Parade Pier Party: Also new this year, the Pier Party will take place after the boat parade at The Shipyard at Bristol Marine and feature live music, appetizers and beverages. Tix are $40 pp and numbers are limited.
If The Inn on the Wharf, in Lubec were any closer to the shoreline, I could cast a fishing line out my window. Instead, I gaze at lobstermen hauling traps and fishermen unloading their catches, listen to boats chug-chug-chugging, and inhale brine-scented air. All while watching some of the nation’s biggest tides ebb and flow.
It’s not just the location on the eastern shore of the nation’s eastern-most town that makes this Lubec inn special, but also the story behind it. In the mid 1900s, 23 sardine processing factories operated in this waayyy downeast town.
By the end of the century, only one remained: Lubec Sardine Company Factory B. When its final whistle blew in 2001, it signaled the end of an era.
Five years later, Victor and Judy Trafford spied the oceanfront property with a new wharf and to-die-for views over Passamaquoddy Bay and purchased it. While debating what to do with the derelict factory, the Traffords began buying lobster and crabs, and later eels and periwinkles, from local fishermen. They used the factory’s basement-level holding tanks for sorting and storing, before sending the catches to market.
Next they renovated the factory’s upper level into modern guest accommodations. The 11 rooms, some with private decks) and two-bedroom/two-bathroom apartment, opened in 2009.
A spacious central area offers tables and a kitchen as well as access to shared decks. Guests can arrange to take a group or private yoga class with Judy in the purpose-built yoga studio. The inn also rents bicycles and sea kayaks for exploring the area. Whale-watching tours aboard the Tarquin depart from the wharf.
The Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant, in the factory’s former boiler room, serves some form of lobster with every meal, from lobster eggs benie to a lobster dinner.
Lubec inn delivers an authentic downeast Maine experience
The overall experience is an authentic immersion into Maine’s maritime culture and heritage. Be sure to ask for a tour of the processing facilities on the wharf level.
Note: Do expect to rise early, not only from the chug of lobsterboats but also from one of the nation’s earliest sunrises.
From the Inn on the Wharf, it’s a short walk into downtown Lubec, with a handful of independent shops and restaurants. Pedal or drive over the International Bridge to Campobello Island, New Brunswick, home to Roosevelt-Campobello International Park. (Campobello is part of Canada, so you’ll need a passport or passport card. Once you cross the bridge, you’re on Atlantic time, one hour ahead of Eastern time, so if it’s 10 am in Lubec, it’s 11 am on Campobello.)
