If The Inn on the Wharf, in Lubec were any closer to the shoreline, I could cast a fishing line out my window. Instead, I gaze at lobstermen hauling traps and fishermen unloading their catches, listen to boats chug-chug-chugging, and inhale brine-scented air. All while watching some of the nation’s biggest tides ebb and flow.
It’s not just the location on the eastern shore of the nation’s eastern-most town that makes this Lubec inn special, but also the story behind it. In the mid 1900s, 23 sardine processing factories operated in this waayyy downeast town.
By the end of the century, only one remained: Lubec Sardine Company Factory B. When its final whistle blew in 2001, it signaled the end of an era.
Five years later, Victor and Judy Trafford spied the oceanfront property with a new wharf and to-die-for views over Passamaquoddy Bay and purchased it. While debating what to do with the derelict factory, the Traffords began buying lobster and crabs, and later eels and periwinkles, from local fishermen. They used the factory’s basement-level holding tanks for sorting and storing, before sending the catches to market.
Next they renovated the factory’s upper level into modern guest accommodations. The 11 rooms, some with private decks) and two-bedroom/two-bathroom apartment, opened in 2009.
A spacious central area offers tables and a kitchen as well as access to shared decks. Guests can arrange to take a group or private yoga class with Judy in the purpose-built yoga studio. The inn also rents bicycles and sea kayaks for exploring the area. Whale-watching tours aboard the Tarquin depart from the wharf.
The Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant, in the factory’s former boiler room, serves some form of lobster with every meal, from lobster eggs benie to a lobster dinner.
Lubec inn delivers an authentic downeast Maine experience
The overall experience is an authentic immersion into Maine’s maritime culture and heritage. Be sure to ask for a tour of the processing facilities on the wharf level.
Note: Do expect to rise early, not only from the chug of lobsterboats but also from one of the nation’s earliest sunrises.
From the Inn on the Wharf, it’s a short walk into downtown Lubec, with a handful of independent shops and restaurants. Pedal or drive over the International Bridge to Campobello Island, New Brunswick, home to Roosevelt-Campobello International Park. (Campobello is part of Canada, so you’ll need a passport or passport card. Once you cross the bridge, you’re on Atlantic time, one hour ahead of Eastern time, so if it’s 10 am in Lubec, it’s 11 am on Campobello.)
Farm-to-table is so yesterday; in Maine, you can enjoy farm-fresh meals right on the farm. These farm-based Maine restaurants, cafés, and pizza ovens serve farm-fresh fare. Most, if not all, ingredients are sourced onsite or nearby. Call before making a special trip, as hours vary by the season, if not the week or day. (post updated Aug. 19, 2025))
Sited on 250 organic acres edging the Nezinscot River, Maine’s first organic dairy farm is a multi-faceted find. Third-generation farmers Gregg and Gloria Varney expanded Nezinscot Farm’s operations to include a specialty food shop; a café serving breakfast and lunch; a boulangerie making traditional and European-style breads and baked goods; a fromagerie, source of more than 20 certified-organic cheeses; a charcuterie, making prepared meats such as bacon, sausage, and pepperoni; and a yarn and fiber studio.
“I like telling people that Nezinscot Farm is an interactive classroom, where people can not only learn more about where their food comes from, but more importantly, the benefits to one’s health in supporting a local food system by eating locally grown,” Gloria says.
Go for breakfast, brunch, or lunch, or stop in for the fresh-baked pies, doughnuts, bread, and sweets. Then, create a picnic by adding cheeses and charcuterie, veggies, baked treats, and other finds.
Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Jason Williams presides over The Well, a mobile kitchen amid the fields, greenhouses, and gardens of Jordan’s Farm, a 122-acre third-generation, family farm on a land trust. Dining is primarily alfresco, with seats at picnic tables, in gazebos, or at the kitchen counter.
Williams gets his pick of the farm’s produce, and he creates his menus to reflect not only what’s available but also to complement the weather.” If it’s 40 and rainy in June, I throw soups on and prepare comfort food. If it’s 100 degrees in July, I’ll prepare spicy foods and barbecue.”
Visit the well-stocked farm store before dinner, pick some fresh flowers for the table, and savor a scratch-made farm-fresh meal. Definitely make reservations.
While most places on this list were farms first, Primo, owned by two-time James Beard award-winning chef Melissa Kelly, was first a restaurant. Kelly purchased the property in 1990. Over the years, she’s cultivated the property, sowing crops and adding gardens, beehives, and livestock for truly farm-fresh meals.
Her philosophy is to be as sustainable as possible and leave a small footprint. Nothing goes to waste. “We recycle hot water for dishes, burn local biodiesel, fertilize gardens with food waste, and grow 69 percent of our own produce,” she says. In peak season, the farm produces 80 percent of what’s served. Local farmers fill in the gaps.
I love arriving early to wander around the produce and tea gardens, view the hives, and visit with the pigs, chickens, and guinea pigs in the pastures.
Primo has formal and casual dining rooms, lounges, and a porch. Make advance reservations for the dining room, and arrive early to enjoy the experience.
Visiting Acadia? Nose out to Lemoine and watch Nubian goats romp in the field and play king of the rock, while you wait for your pizza to be made and cooked in Seal Cove Farm’s outdoor oven. Pizza menus vary to reflect what’s currently fresh from the farm, but each is topped with Seal Cove’s various kinds of goat cheese and, if you want, goataroni. Go on a fine day, as there’s no indoor seating.
The farm store sells its cheeses and goat gelato when available. The pizza oven usually operates for lunch Friday through Sunday. NOTE: It’s not open for 2025.
If heading north to the Moosehead or the Katahdin & Lakes regions, detour to Stutzman’s, owned by third-generation farmers Sid and Rainey Stutzman. This family farm has a store stocked with farm-fresh produce and a bakery producing scratch-made breads, pies, pastries, and more, but the café with its farm-fresh meals steals my heart—or maybe stomach.
Stutzman’s serves soups, salads, desserts, daily specials, and wood-fired pizzas drawing from the farm’s bounty. Everything looks good, but I always go for the pizza, sold by the slice and pie. Even better, there’s an all-you-can-eat pizza buffet with varied pizzas, salads, desserts, and beverages.
“We try to follow the seasons with what we have on hand, starting out with greens from our greenhouse, and we buy from other farmers who might have something we don’t have,” Rainey says. And with advance notice, the farm makes a gluten-free pizza shell, offers vegetarian soups and pizzas, and can make low-sugar desserts.
The best time to visit Apple Acres Farm is autumn, when the apple orchard is heavy with fruit and the hills surrounding it are ablaze with color. Can’t make it, then? Not to worry, you can stop in anytime for apple-cider doughnuts, ice cream, and, oh yes, doughnut-ice cream sandwiches, not to mention sandwiches, pies, and—surprise!—even a decent lobster roll. And pizza!
Breakfast, sandwiches on freshly baked bread, enticing baked goods, and Friday night pizza keep this rural farm store hopping year-round. And you can pick up grocery items as well as works by local artisans.
From mid-June through September Toddy Pond Farm hosts farm dinners on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights in a beautiful barn. It adds live music on Friday and Saturday nights ($10 if you choose to stay for it, otherwise dine early). Reservations are required. The menu includes starters, entreés, and desserts, with most ingredients sourced on Toddy Pond Farm or nearby farms. Wine, beer, cider, and soft drinks are available, too.
Maine is renowned for its lobster shacks, but its fried seafood shacks are equally tasty finds. At these 10 coastal Maine seafood shacks—a mix of sit-down restaurants and take-out spots—the fish is ultra-fresh and moist, and the coatings are flavorful and crisp. Expect big portions, low prices, and salty gossip. And don’t miss the homemade desserts that are as alluring as the catch of the day.
The Cardinali family’s shingle-clad fish joint edges a saltwater marsh on the road to Wells Harbor. Snag a picnic table inside or out. Ned Cardinali says the secret to their light, crispy, yet moist fried fish is their labor-intensive, multi-step dipping-shaking-and-frying process. Order fish’n’chips served with homemade slaw and a roll or splurge on the seafood platter or split the Captain’s Feast, a mountain of scallops, Maine shrimp, whole-belly clams, and haddock, and fries, with rolls and slaw. The Catch also earns raves for its fried smelts, calamari, and oysters.
Don’t even think about skipping the sweet potato fries or homemade desserts: Both the blueberry pie, served warm with ice cream, and the vanilla bread pudding, with a warm whiskey caramel sauce and whipped cream, are alone worth a visit. This seasonal place is extremely popular, go early to avoid a wait.
Crunchy, chewy, tasty: When it comes to fried clams, Ken’s gets it right. And no wonder: This place has been frying clams since 1927 and has generations of Mainers as devotees. Owner Dave Wilcox daily selects the best-grade fish right off the boat. While the whole belly clams—available battered or crumbed—are justly famous, it’s the made-to-order clam cakes that are the biggest sellers. Ken’s sells upwards of 1,000 daily, but it fries all types of seafood, and Ken’s has earned a cult-like following for its fried oysters, available the first Tuesday of each month. Seasonal.
Open since 1989, this garage-turned-fish shack evokes the sea, from the mermaids and fish painted on the exterior to the netting hanging over the counter inside. But don’t expect a fishy odor, Susan’s is clean, efficient, and dishes out some of Portland’s best and cheapest, hand-breaded, fried seafood.
Owner Susan Eklund makes sure Susan’s delivers on its motto: “Our fish is so fresh, you’ll want to slap it.” Big portions, low prices, crispy flavorful fish, and daily specials reel in the locals. On Mondays and Tuesdays, fish burgers are two for $3, and Wednesday is haddock day, with fried specialties ranging from nuggets to a haddock and scallop dinner. And you can even order fried smelts: Now that’s a Maine thing. Open year-round.
Tucked down on the harbor in South Freeport, a world away from downtown Freeport’s shopping madness, Harraseeket Lunch serves fried seafood in abundance. Order at the window, then grab a picnic table outside or a seat in the dining room.
This is the place to settle that ages-old question about fried clams: Are they better breaded or battered? Order a half-point of each and decide for yourself. Finish with a homemade whoopie pie. This place is no secret, so expect crowds. Seasonal.
Healthful fried fish? The Sea Basket is as close as it gets. It uses a convection frying system that quickly sears the outer coating, so far less oil is absorbed than in standard frying. The roadside restaurant just south of Wiscasset is easy to spot, and the parking lot is always full, especially on Sundays, when locals congregate here after church. Fried haddock, scallops, clams, Maine shrimp, and even clam cakes and crab cakes are all available, served alone, in rolls, and in baskets. Bonus: Don’t miss the lobster stew: It’s made with local fresh—never frozen—picked tail, claw, and knuckle meat. Seasonal.
“Free Beer Tomorrow” proclaims the sign outside Bets Fish Fry, a strictly take-out shack by the town common in Boothbay. Owner Bet Finocchiaro is an institution in these parts. Although she no longer catches the fish herself, she still uses her grandmother’s breading recipe, whips up her special tartar sauce, and makes the fries. Bet says she goes through 1,500 pounds of haddock and 800 pounds of potatoes each week. The haddock sandwich and the fish and chips are legendary, but unless you’re a big eater, plan on splitting; portions are huge. Don’t miss Bets dill sauce. No indoor seating, but there are plenty of picnic tables. Seasonal; cash only.
The Hall family now operates three Angler’s restaurants, but this one is the original, and it reels in both locals and tourists heading up Route 1. They come not only for the fried haddock, Maine shrimp, oysters, scallops, smelts, and clams but also for the homemade desserts (coconut cream pie and blueberry pie are the top sellers). The fried haddock dinner comes with two large, hand-battered filets served with a choice of potato and vegetable. It’s enough to feed two, especially if you plan on ordering one of the 12-15 dessert choices, most of which are made on-site. Year-round. .
Here’s a dandy place for an unfussy meal at a low price. This hole-in-the-wall offers a few counter stools, a handful of tables, and outdoor picnic tables. The all-you-can-eat fish fry comes with top-quality Alaskan white fish, fries, slaw, and a roll (one order, without seconds, easily fed my husband and me). Regulars rave about the fried clams. Former owner Doug Fraser mixed his own batter from three types of flour and fried the fish in canola oil that’s changed every other day, and he shared the recipes with current owner Brian K. Sullivan.
Judy Astbury, along with her husband, Mike, is the third-generation owner of Bagaduce Lunch, a waterfront roadside takeout founded by her grandfather Sidney Snow. In 2008, no less an authority than the James Beard Foundation named it an American Classic.
Regulars know to order the clams, lightly breaded and fried in vegetable oil. Aim for a riverside picnic table, where you can watch for gulls, eagles, osprey, and seals. Time your visit to coincide with the change of tide to see the reversing falls on the tidal Bagaduce River really rip. Seasonal.
The Tracey family does it all, from catching the seafood to preparing it. You can dine inside or get take-out to enjoy at a picnic table at this roadside fried fish shack. But it’s not only fried fish on the menu. Tracey’s is equally renowned for its two-for-one special on lobster rolls. I’ve seen them as low as $10 (for two!) and as high as $26 (when other places were far, far higher for one).
NOTE: Canada no longer requires full vaccination or use of ArriveCAN (that said, using the app may speed your way through a border crossing).
Visiting Canada from Maine is easy if you’re fully vaccinated against COVID-19. But it does require preparation in advance. Canada allows online registration, providing information about travels, and uploading documents.
During a recent trip to Lubec, Maine, I wanted to drive over the Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge and visit Campobello Island, N.B., Canada. To do so, I had to set up an ArriveCAN account and register my trip.
For the most part, creating and registering an account and registering is easy. The comprehensive site guides you through the program. But you can’t complete the trip registration process without answering every question. And it’s primarily designed for those arriving by boat or plane, and it assumes a multi-day stay.
ArriveCan requires providing an exact time of arrival in Canada: hour and minute. Now, this is easy if on scheduled transportation. But it may be difficult if you’re arriving by car (traffic, construction, rest stops, etc.). So I just guestimated and moved on to the next section, hoping for the best.
Providing an address for my time in Canada stumped me since I only planned to spend a few hours on Campobello. So I called the 800 number, and after listening to a long message, I reached a live person and asked her how to proceed. She recommended using the address for Roosevelt-Campobello International Park. That worked. After uploading my passport and vaccination card photos, I received a Q.R. code and confirmed via email.
I arrived at the border about a half-hour earlier than I’d guestimated. (Note: Do wear a mask during entry.) The border agent took my passport and my dog’s rabies vaccination certificate. Then she scanned the passport and said: “You’ve filled out ArriveCan, so you’re good to go.” She didn’t mention anything about my early arrival. She handed me back the passport and certificate, and we drove off to explore the island.
Visiting Canada from Maine: Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec provinces
Campobello isn’t the only easy access to Canada from Maine, which borders New Brunswick and Quebec and has ferry access to Nova Scotia. That makes it easy to create a two-nation vacation.
• Campobello has seasonal ferry access to mainland New Brunswick via Deer Island, making it possible to loop from Lubec and return via Calais or another border.
• You can take The Cat ferry to Nova Scotia and loop back to the U.S. via New Brunswick (or vice versa).
• Maine’s Aroostook County borders both New Brunswick and Quebec.
When I took The Cat ferry from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, a few months later, I updated my ArriveCAN account with that trip’s info within 72 hours of boarding.
Here are a few of the accommodations that have changed hands for Maine summer 2022.
Keeping up with what’s new or changed is never easy, but staying on top of what’s in store for Maine summer 2022 has been especially challenging. And while most of the changes are in lodging, I’ve found a few worth noting in experiences and transportation.
Regarding accommodations: Many properties have changed ownership since September 2021. I’m sure there are others, but I’ve confirmed those below. And I know of others in the works. When they change hands, I’ll add them to this list.
So, if you’re relying on one of previous reviews here or in one of my Moon-serious guidebooks, a friend’s recommendation based on a visit last year, or review sites such as Trip Advisor, the experience may be different. And, if you’re a returning guest, expect changes.
And expect more changes as the employee crisis combined with Maine’s demographics and lack of affordable housing is hitting the state’s tourism hotspots especially hard.(Updated July 21 2022)
Maine summer 2022 changes by region
Southern Maine Coast (Kittery through Old Orchard Beach)
Union Bluff Hotel, York Beach (sold to Giri Hotels, a hotel management group that’s actively acquiring Maine properties)
Nevada Motel, York (new owner; reopening in 2023)
Sunrise Motel, York (new owner)
Lighthouse Inn, York (new owner)
Hartwell House, Ogunquit (new owner)
Stage Run by the Sea (new owner)
Well-Ogunquit Resort, Wells (new owner)
America’s Best Value Inn, Wells (now Anchor Inn and Cottages Wells-Ogunquit; sold to Giri Hotels, a hotel management group that’s actively acquiring Maine properties)
Kennebunk Inn and Academe Restaurant, Kennebunk (new owner)
Wanderer, Kennebunk (new owner; older cottage property renovated and upscaled, opening in June)
Lincoln Hotel, Biddeford (opening August)
The Gull Motel, Old Orchard Beach (new owner)
Old Colonial Motel, Old Orchard Beach (new owner)
Beach Motel & Suites (new owner)
The York Trolley and the Seashore trolleys will not operate the beach service this season.
Sebasco Harbor Resort, Phippsburg (sold to Giri Hotels, a hotel management group that’s actively acquiring Maine properties)
The Federal, Brunswick (former Capt. Daniel Stone; $35 million renovation)
555 North, in The Federal, Brunswick (yes, same owners/chefs as the much lauded and missed Portland restaurant)
OneSixtyFive, Brunswick (same owner, new name and concept for the renovated Brunswick Inn)
Cod Cove Inn (new owner)
Ocean Point Inn, East Boothbay (purchased by Lark Hotels; operating normally this season; will undergo renovations and updating before reopening in 2023 under Lark’s Bluebird Hotel banner).
Topside Inn, Boothbay Harbor (now managed by Lark Hotels)
Mid-Town Motel, Boothbay Harbor (now managed by Lark Hotels)
The Tipsy Butler B&B, Newcastle (new owner)
Penobscot Bay (Thomaston through Bucksport)
East Wind Inn, Tenants Harbor (new owner)
Cafe Miranda, Rockland (closing June 25 due to employee crisis)
Hartstone Inn and Restaurant, Camden (new owner)
Hawthorn Inn, Camden (now private home)
The Norumbega Inn, Camden (new owner)
The Crews Quarters at Lyman-Morse marine complex, Camden (three 1-bedroom boutique dockside accommodations at the marina)
Salt Wharf restaurant and raw bar at Lyman-Morse marina complex, Camden (opening in June)
Blue Barren Distillery, Lyman-Morse marina complex, Camden (reopening this summer)
Black Horse, Camden (reopening as extended-stay property)
The Youngtown Inn and Restaurant (restaurant to be renamed Aster and Rose)
Visiting Maine this summer? You’re not alone. Maine’s reputation as a summer vacation destination rich in outdoor activities makee it a top choice for travelers.
Will it be crowded? The answer depends upon where you go and what you do. Seek out the lesser-known locations, opt for the less popular trails, consider quieter waterways, and choose the road less traveled. That, as poet Robert Frost discovered, will make all the difference.
Here’s what to know when planning your Maine vacation 2023. (updated March 4,2023):
While you might get lucky and find a vacancy on a spur-of-the-moment trip, don’t count on it. I’ve spoken with many innkeepers whose properties are booked solid for July and August. Last season I noticed that the sad-looking roadside motels, the ones that receive only rants on review sites, had full lotsl. You don’t want to be the traveler whose choices are between one of these or the car (if it were me, I’d opt for the car). And FYI, lodging rates have skyrocketed in many locations.
Restaurants aren’t far behind, as savvy locals and return vacationers have made their reservations far in advance. You won’t starve, but your chances of dining when and where you prefer are getting slimmer by the day. While many restaurants have increased outdoor seating, they’re limited by how many they can serve. An employee shortage has forced many to cut back on hours and days of operation (more on this below). Always call to double-check hours; don’t rely on social media postings. Remember that most grocery stores have prepared foods to go that will do in a pinch.
I you want to drive to the summit of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, you need a vehicle reservation. That’s not just for sunrise or sunset; it’s required, along with your park pass, at all times throughout the season (late May-late Oct.). While 70 percent of Cadillac reservations are released at 10 am Eastern Time two days ahead, 30 percent of vehicle reservations are made available 90 days ahead of each date. You have a better chance of getting what you want in advance. You may buy your park pass and also make Cadillac Summit Road reservations online.
This summer, like last, pack patience: You’re going to need it. Here’s why:
• Maine’s demographics: Its residents are the oldest in the nation, so most are out of the workforce, and there aren’t children of working age in the house. The state simply doesn’t have enough bodies to meet needs.
• Other jobs: Many former hospitality workers found other jobs during the pandemic and are not returning to hospitality work.
• Housing: While many large hospitality businesses have employee housing, they’re in the minority. Due to demand, short-term rentals have replaced seasonal ones. Good for the property owners, but not so for those needing a season-long bed. Combine that with the sizzling real estate market.
• Crowds: I’ve seen photos of lines winding up popular trails in Acadia National Park. Instead of joining the queue, choose lesser-known trails and research out-of-the-way preserves.
I’m hearing far too many reports of cranky, demanding travelers. Please don’t be that person. Try to understand that your waiter or desk attendant may be juggling a few jobs and likely is working far too many hours. Frankly, yelling at a front-line person doesn’t do much except make you look like a jerk.
I know what it’s like to be tired and cranky and have everything going wrong when traveling. It happens. Be kind. It sounds trite, but when you’re really ticked off, try smiling at the person who might be able to do something about the reason. And please don’t hold others responsible for your lack of planning or mistakes or threaten posting a bad review.
Your goal: Replace that oh-so-2020 term abundance of caution with abundance of kindness. Getting those around you to smile and maybe laugh, especially if things are going awry.
Respect those who choose to mask. You don’t know what’s going on in their lives: She may be fighting cancer; he may have an unvaccinated at-risk child or grandparent at home. Some mask out of fear, others out of caution. The reason doesn’t matter; respect their choices.
Bottom line
Plan in advance, pack patience, be kind, and always be ready to don a mask. Got that? Now smile: It’s time for your 2023 Maine vacation.
BAR HARBOR, MAINE – Acadia National Park’s historic, island-widetrail system is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In April 2022, Acadia’s trails earned recognition for their national historic significance and ties to the history of Mount Desert Island and the establishment of Acadia National Park.
“Acadia National Park now has the largest system of trails to be listed in the National Register of Historic Places”
The listing recognizes the 109 historic, maintained trails covering 117 miles. Notable features include 18 memorial plaques, 12 viewpoints, and unique engineering. Trails extending outside the park’s boundaries on Mount Desert Island are also included.
“Acadia National Park now has the largest system of trails to be listed in the National Register of Historic Places,” Kevin Schneider, Superintendent of Acadia National Park, said. “This recognition is a testament to not only the historic significance of these trails, but also the incredible dedication of the National Park Service staff, partners and volunteers who continue to preserve them.”
Acadia’s trail system evolved over centuries of human use, settlement, and recreation on Mount Desert Island. The Wabanaki, who trace their presence in Maine back 12,000 years, blazed the earliest trails. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the Village Improvement Associations and the Civilian Conservation Corps built or maintained them.
The National Register listing focuses on the period between 1844 and 1942 as significant in the trail system’s development. In 1944, Artist Thomas Cole first documented views of the island landscapethat influenced the trail system’s development. And in 1942, the Civilian Conservation Corps concluded its work in Acadia National Park.
Other National Register listings for Acadia National Park
In addition to its trail system, Acadia has several historic placeslisted on the National Register. These include:
the Schoodic Peninsula Historic District,
Blackwoods and Seawall campgrounds,
and the historic carriage roads and gatehouses
About the National Register listing
The National Register of Historic Places is the official Federal list of districts, sites, buildings, structures and objects significant in American history, architecture, archeology, engineering, and culture. The National Park Service administers it.
The National Park Serviceworked on the National Register nomination for several years before its approval. And Friends of Acadia helped fund the research and writing for the nomination.
Reservations required for Acadia National Park Cadillac Summit Road from May 25 through October 22
BAR HARBOR, MAINE – The National Park Service requires vehicle reservations for the Acadia National Park Cadillac Summit Road from May 25 through October 22, 2022. Vehicle reservations are sold on a rolling basis and are available for purchase online at Recreation.gov.
“In 2021, we successfully implemented the vehicle reservation system for Cadillac Summit Road, which eliminated the unsafe traffic and parking congestion problems we experienced at the summit in past years,” Kevin Schneider, Acadia National Park Superintendent, said. “With the demands of growing visitation, vehicle reservations will continue to be a useful management tool for improving the visitor experience.”
The Acadia National Park Cadillac Summit Road offers a 3-mile scenic drive to the top of the highest peak in the park. Parking is available in two locations at the summit, where a paved walkway connects scenic overlooks.
What to know about vehicle reservations
Vehicle reservations cost $6 each and must be purchased on Recreation.gov in advance of your visit. They are not available for purchase in person at the park.
In addition to a vehicle reservation for Cadillac Summit Road, visitors must have a park entrance pass and display it in their vehicle. These also are available at Recreation.gov.
Vehicle reservations are sold on a rolling basis: 30 percent of vehicle reservations are made available 90 days ahead of each date. And the remaining 70 percent are released at 10 am EDT two days ahead of each date.
After making a reservation, visitors should open the attachment in the Recreation.com confirmation email. And then print or save a digital copy of the vehicle reservation ticket with the QR code. The code will be scanned to verify the reservation. Note: Internet and cellular connectivity are unreliable in the park.
Vehicle reservations may also be made through the Recreation.gov call center. Contacting the call center does not provide an advantage for securing a reservation. Call centers are open daily from 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. EST. For reservations, call : 877-444-6777; or TDD 877-833-6777 or for international visitors 606-515-6777.
Vehicle reservations are not required for visitors who enter the area by foot, bike or taxi. And note that the Cadillac Summit is not served by the Island Explorer bus system.
Vehicles over 21 feet long (including bike racks and hitch attachments), RVs, and trailers are prohibited.
Commercial operators doing business in the park are required to use a separate vehicle reservation system. But first they must obtain a Commercial Use Authorization to access it.
Acadia is among the smallest and most popular national parks in the United States, with more than 4 million visits in 2021. Growing visitation has caused severe traffic and parking congestion at the park’s most popular destinations, including Cadillac Summit. The National Park Service completed a Transportation Plan in 2019 that provides a range of management actions to address these issues. As a result, the park implemented a vehicle reservation system for the Cadillac Summit Road in 2021.
The Maine Central Model Railroad tracks wind through real Maine places, passing mines and mills, lobster boats and lighthouses, cities and villages. Sharp eyes might spy Stephen King’s house and Dysart’s Truck Stop in Bangor, the former Champion Paper in Bucksport, lobstermen docking at Cape Split, lumbermen rolling logs, a hunter surprised by a bear, even an accident scene complete with an ambulance.
Maine Central Model Railroad covers 900 square feet and features 4,000 trees, 407 train cars, 3,000 feet of track, 11 bridges and trestles, and 200 switches
“We hit about everything,’’ Harold “Buz” Beal told me in 2009. “There’s even an outhouse. Now that’s getting down to the nitty-gritty.” At that time, the model, built with the help and support of his wife, Helen, was in a garage adjacent to his home in the down east lobster-fishing village of Jonesport.
I visited a few more times, but when Buz passed in 2013, I feared for the Maine Central Model Railroad’s future. But thanks to a $2.6 million donation from the Wyss Medical Foundation, the railroad will relocate to a purpose-built home on the campus of Kennebunkport’s Seashore Trolley Museum.
Realizing a childhood dream
This photo provides a sense of the Maine Central Model Railroad’s size. It sprawls in three sections, covers 900 square feet, and features 4,000 trees, 407 train cars, 3,000 feet of track, 11 bridges and trestles, and 200 switches.@Hilary Nangle
“I’ve got railroading in my blood,’’ said Buz, a Jonesport native and 26-year Coast Guard veteran. His grandfather was a Canadian Pacific engineer. Buz began planning the model’s layout as a boy.
He had a track plan. And he knew the model would fill the building before they started construction. The finished model covers 900 square feet and features 4,000 trees, 407 train cars, 3,000 feet of track, 11 bridges and trestles, and 200 switches. But it wasn’t until around 1989, when he had returned to Jonesport after nearly 50 years away, that he began building this dream with Helen.
Twelve years and thousands of hours later, they completed it. “You have to have the place, the opportunity, and the patience,’’ he said. And the right partner. “Helen’s family were railroad people. We’ve been married 25 years [in 2009] and never had an argument. We’re two peas in a pod.’’
Buz and Helen built everything by hand using tweezers, glue, and plaster of Paris.
“We didn’t know what the heck we were doing. We did it as we went along, 6 to 8 feet at a time,’’ Beal said. In Jonesport, the model rested on a maze of tables with varying heights. “I didn’t want it all the same; it gets humdrum if you do that,’’ he added. The design allowed visitors to walk through the layout.
Helen built the tiny houses and cut 600 windows by hand using an X-Acto knife. She also affixed trees and painted all the small pieces. Buz painted the houses and built the larger structures. Some cars were built from scratch, some made from kits, others bought. The granite cliffs and wooded mountains were created with layered plaster-soaked paper towels.
The model has three sections, and full operation requires a trained volunteer operating each. In addition, there are boxcars and grain cars, gondolas, and cars designed to carry gas, oil, or coal.
“You have to know all the businesses, how many cars can fit on a siding by each business, and know what every car is and what it carries or is used for. There’s a lot to it. People look and don’t realize that,’’ Buz explained.
When the model was in his garage, he would operate one train through the entire layout for most visitors. That took 10 minutes. When he flipped the power switch, lights came on inside the buildings, and the clang, whistles, and chug of trains filled the air.
“I don’t know what it is about a train that’s so fascinating. It’s just two engines pulling cars behind; it’s not rocket science,’’ Buz said, as his eyes followed the train through the Maine landscape. “It’s just mesmerizing. I never tire of it.’’
Bright future for the Maine Central Model Railroad
After the Seashore Trolley Museum‘s new building is complete, a professional model railroad layout moving company will help set up the layout in its new home. It also will add the new sections needed.
The museum plans for volunteers and a future all-ages Model Railroad Club to help refresh the layout and build the landscape and new buildings for the new sections. In keeping with the museum’s focus, new additions likely will include trolley lines.
The Seashore Trolley Museum will change from seasonal to year-round operation when the building is complete.
I imagine Buz would be thrilled.
A rendering of Seashore Trolley Museum’s new Maine Central Model Railroad building designed by architect Herb Fremin, with construction beginning later this year. Courtesy photoHelen Beal (Jonesport, Maine) designed, built and operated the Maine Central Model Railroad with her late husband Harold “Buz” Beal for the past four decades. Helen is standing in front of a model buzd made of their own Jonesport home (green). Courtesy photo
A book makes an ideal gift when you can match the right title to a recipient’s personality. A book is more than just a good read; it’s an entry into another world. The right book may ignite a new passion, whether that’s a newfound love of cooking or a desire to create a cure. Or, it may provide a much-needed escape into a world of mystery or romance. As always, while you may purchase these books available online, I’d love it if possible if you’d buy at or order through your local independent bookstore. By the way, I’ll be chatting with each of the authors for more detailed posts later.
By the way, I’ll be chatting with each of the author’s for more detailed posts later.
Wild! Weird! Wonderful! Maine
Earl Brechlin’s book delivers on its name. I not-so-modestly think it’s the perfect companion to one of my Maine guidebooks. Brechlin takes you deeper into a destination, calling out its unique wonders, quirky characters, and funky occurrences. For example, betcha didn’t know that the Devil (and his dog?) left tracks in the snow near Milo. Or, how Cowshit Corner in Newcastle got its name. Or that a pair of oxen from Stetson was declared the world’s largest back in the early 1900s. Guinness record holders, famous people with Maine connections, geological wonders, and intriguing history contribute to this fun read. I guarantee you’ll smile, heckle, snort, and learn some interesting trivia to share at your next social function. Oh, and with this book, a copy of Moon Maine, and a Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, you’re good to go anywhere in Maine. (Earl Brechlin: Wild! Weird Wonderful! Maine, Islandport Press, 2020)
Lobster: 75 Recipes Celebrating the World’s Favorite Seafood
Bet I got your attention with the word lobster. If you’ve only had it boiled or steamed, welcome to a world of recipes that go far beyond the traditional preparations. Author Dana Moos wears many hats: real-estate broker, author, chef, former innkeeper. She also has a few titles to her name. These include the 2018 Maine Lobster Chef of the Year People’s Choice award and two blue ribbons from the 2018 Boothbay Harbor Claw Down competition. She won both the judge’s and people’s choice awards for Best Lobster Bite. Last summer, I enjoyed (understatement, OMG! they’re divine!) her lobster-topped wontons (called lobster wonton nachos on the menu). They’re on the menu at 727 Ocean Sunset Bar in the newly renovated and reopened Smuggler’s Cove Inn in East Boothbay. Now that I have the recipe, I can replicate these addictive bites. In the book, recipes are divided into chapters titled Starters and Small Bites; Dips and Spreads; Soups and Salads; Sandwiches and Handhelds; Tacos; Maine Courses; Lobster—It’s What’s for Breakfast; and Bloody Marys. The photos alone will have you wanting to make each dish. (Dana Moos: Lobster: 75 Recipes Celebrating the World’s Favorite Seafood, Down East Books,2021)
The Tiny Kitchen Cookbook: Strategies and Recipes for Creating Amazing Meals in Small Spaces
Annie Mahle earned renown for her skill at creating delicious meals, mostly from home-grown or local ingredients, on a wood stove in the tiny galley of the Maine windjammer Schooner Riggin. She’s appeared regularly on Maine TV shows, authored three other cookbooks (here are recipes from At Home At Sea), and appeared on this site. In this book, she explains how you, too, can create magic in the tiniest kitchen, even one without an oven. Any home cook will benefit from her wisdom, from transforming leftovers, learning how to substitute ingredients, and tips for planning and organizing. And all that comes before the recipes. Buttermilk fried chicken salad with apples and blue cheese? Yes, please! Pan-seared eggplant and kisir with walnut fig yogurt? Mmmmm! And I especially love her chapter titled Stovetop One-Pan Wonders because, really, who likes to do dishes? Here she shares tips and recipes on preparing one-pan pasta and other dishes. (Annie Mahle: The Tiny Kitchen Cookbook: Strategies and Recipes for Creating Amazing Meals in Small Spaces, Storey, 2021)
