Ho, ho, ho, it’s magic: Magic of Christmas in Maine

Tickets for the Portland Symphony Orchestra’s annual holiday extravaganza, the Magic of Christmas, always go quickly, so act quickly if you want to score primo seats for the season’s primo show. The 2010 Magic of Christmas lineup features PSO Music Director Robert Moody leading the PSO in a program of familiar holiday hits. Expect music, dance, theatrical readings, the Festival of Trees, and plenty of holiday hoopla. Eleven performances are scheduled between Dec. 10-19 at Merrill Auditorium. Tickets range $25-55 (plus any applicable fees); kids save $10, seniors save $5.

Highlights:

•    Maestro Robert Moody leading the Portland Symphony Orchestra in a festive and inspirational program of classical and popular holiday hits.

•    Joe Cassidy portraying Scrooge and all the voices in A Christmas Carol and performing the Irving Berlin classic White Christmas and other seasonal favorites. Cassidy has been seen on NBC’s Law & Order as well as on Broadway as Freddy in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels and in 1776, Les Misérables and A Christmas Carol at Madison Square Garden. As a concert soloist he has performed with many symphony orchestras around the country.

•   Soprano Suzanne Nance as featured vocalist, joining Joe Cassidy and Robert Moody for a newly-discovered trio from Nutcracker, The Oratorio.  Nance has performed recitals across Maine in Fort Kent, Presque Isle, Blue Hill and Bangor and in concert with the Bangor Symphony Orchestra as well as the PSO. Recently, she performed in Prague, London, Philadelphia, Chicago and New York. Nance also produces and hosts MPBN’s Morning Classical music program.

•    The addition of the Fezziwigs, along with the Ghosts of Christmas Past, Present and Yet to Be, to the cast of larger-than-life puppets from Figures of Speech Theatre in the unforgettable condensed adaptation of A Christmas Carol.

•    Angelic voices of the Saco Bay Children’s Choir singing “Somewhere in My Memory” from the hit movie Home Alone, and joining the all-volunteer Magic of Christmas Chorus for inspirational carols and holiday tunes.

•    Traditional favorites including “Sleigh Ride,” when the PSO players try to outdo each other with their festive and comical attire, and the inspirational audience sing-along when patrons can lift their own voices in celebration of the season.

•    Magic of Christmas Dancers portraying multiple roles in A Christmas Carol and also forming a Rockettes-style kickline of dancing Santas.

•    Pre-concert performances by students from the Maine Suzuki Association (Dec. 12 and 19 at 1 p.mm.) and Ray Cornils at the Kotzschmar Organ Prelude Concert (all other performances).

•    Festival of Trees, a display of beautifully decorated Christmas trees that will transform the Merrill Auditorium lobby into an enchanting winter wonderland during the run of Magic of Christmas. Twelve local businesses have donated their creative talents to decorate their own uniquely festive tree.

Kick off holiday shopping at Artful Gifts

Forgive me as I wipe the drool off my keyboard. For once, I’m not drooling over food, but rather over the magnificent artisan-made goods that will be shown at Artful Gifts. Slated to take place at Point Lookout, in Northport (just north of Camden), Nov. 19-21, 2010, this crafts show and sale features works by more than 40 artisans from throughout New England.

Artful Gifts kicks off Friday with the First Choice Cocktail Gala, from 5-8 p.m. This early-bird-gets-the-best-picks reception features light music and fare and a cash bar, all for a $10 donation benefitting Coastal Mountains Land Trust and United Mid-Coast Charities.

The show continues Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with admission pegged at a $3 donation.

Airline gate agent for a day: Writer dishes and provides tips for airline travel

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My travel-writing friend Ramsey Qubein posed as an airline gate agent for one day and shared his experiences in this article. Make a point of reading it before your next flight, and it will be a more enjoyable experience for all.

Budget travel tips: Save a mint with these ideas

I travel frequently throughout Maine and beyond for work, and since I’m most often on my own for expenses, I’ve mastered keeping costs manageable. Sure, I love it when I can stay at a fancy-pants hotel or dine in a chi-chi restaurant, but more often than not, I’m seeking cheap digs and meals and trying to avoid parking meters and tolls. Here are some budget travel tips and techniques I’ve picked up over the years.

For budget travel, car-free is carefree

Island Explorer Bus, Acadia National Park
If you fly into Bar Harbor Airport from late June until mid-October, you can use the Island Explorer bus service to get around. It’s free with your park pass. ©Tom Nangle

Select destinations that you can get to by public transportation (bus, train, plane) and where you don’t need a car. In Maine, these include Portland (Metro bus and ferry), Rockland (small town with most sites within walking distance, ferry to islands), and Mt. Desert Island (seasonal bus service). No car means no rental fees, no parking fees, and no tolls.

Coming up from Boston? Concord Coach Lines bus service is first class all the way:

  • clean, new comfy coaches with electrical sockets at the seat and a restroom in the back;
  • free movie and free Wifi;
  • quiet ride with no cell phone use permitted en route except for emergencies;
  • almost hourly departures between Boston and Portland with direct service from South Station and an airport express with pick-up at all terminals;
  • less frequent connections from Bangor, Augusta, and along the coast from Portland to Searsport.

OR try Amtrak’s wonderful Downeaster rail service from North Station, with stops in Wells, Saco, Old Orchard Beach (seasonal), Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick. Although the service is less frequent than the bus, it’s quite comfy.

Cheap sleeps for budget travel

Budget travel tip: Opt for a room with a refrigerator and a microwave to help keep down the costs of eating out.
Opt for a room with a refrigerator and a microwave to help keep down the costs of eating out. ©Hilary Nangle

Book a room with access to a refrigerator and microwave, either in the room or shared in a common area. This allows you to prepare light meals and heat leftovers. Or, rent a house, apartment, or cottage, which gives you more space and full facilities and often costs far less than renting a room.

Consider a cost-controlled stay in an all-inclusive sporting camp or a multi-day all-inclusive sail on a Maine windjammer. Note: both include lodging and all meals, some activities, but not alcohol or gratuities. Or rough it even more along the Maine Huts & Trails or AMC Maine Lodges systems (hike, bike, paddle, snowshoe, ski).

Also, check my Cheap Sleeps recommendations for budget-friendly accommodations in Maine.

Cheap eats for travelers

Good cheap Mexican in Maine
Vazquez Mexican in Milbridge evolved from a trailer catering to the migrant community. Every year, this family-owned and operated takeout gets a little fancier, but the quality never wavers, and the prices remain cheap. ©Hilary Nangle

Many restaurants offer early-bird specials before 6 p.m. Venture off the beaten path to find less touristy and often downright cheap ethnic restaurants.

  • Patronize community suppers: Look for announcements in local papers and signs in front of churches and group halls (Grange, Elks, Odd Fellows, etc.). These low-cost meals include chowder suppers, bean suppers, fried fish, chicken, potlucks, and sometimes even lobster. They’re also a good opportunity to rub elbows with the locals and pick up some insider tips.
  • Make lunch the major meal of the day: You can dine in a decent restaurant and have a fancy lunch for far less than it will cost for dinner.
  • In the boonies and don’t know where to eat? Look for the local diner/dive with the biggest collection of local pick-up trucks. Food won’t be fancy, but it’ll usually be cheap and hearty. Stick with the basics (burgers, grilled cheese, fried fish), and you’ll be fine.
  • Make meals from supermarket fresh foods and prepared foods sections. In Maine, most Hannaford’s have extensive salad bars, often sushi bars, chicken stations, as well as everything else you might want for a do-it-yourself feast. Whole Foods in Portland even has in-store dining and tables. Many natural food stores also offer sandwiches, soups, and other prepared foods.
  • Maine’s farmers’ markets offer a bounty of local produce, cheeses, and meats as well as prepared ethnic foods.

Save money with deals and discounts

Military, AAA, AARP, etc. If you don’t ask, you won’t get. With these, you can often save 10 percent or so on accommodations, meals, and admission to popular attractions. Also, search online for hidden deals using the town name or a specific attraction or restaurant, adding the words “promo code” and again with “coupon.” You might want to check Travel Zoo; I’ve found some great specials on that site.

Take advantage of freebies and cheapies

Flash in the Pans often performs in the Blue Hill peninsula area. The concerts are usually free, but donations are encouraged. ©Hilary Nangle

Take advantage of free or low-cost programming: concerts, state and national park programs, films, contra dances, etc. You’ll find listings in local newspapers (check online versions for advance planning), chamber of commerce websites, attraction websites, and posted on community bulletin boards.

Pack light to avoid luggage fees

Pack light and tight.
Even if you’re not on a small plane, pack as if you are to reduce or avoid luggage fees. ©Hilary Nangle

You don’t need a full wardrobe to travel. Leave your vanity at home, and make do with a minimal amount of appropriate seasonal wear. Aim for one color scheme and mix-and-match items that dry overnight when washed in a sink. Plan ahead and pack items that do double or triple duty.

Minimize. Minimize. Minimize.

Roll clothing and pack it in vacuum or compression travel bags designed to reduce bulk. Use a lightweight, easy-to-maneuver carry-on or backpack (pay attention to your airline’s size restrictions and ideally use a smaller suitcase, so there will be no problems; don’t max out your luggage). Or consider the bundle technique. Wear heavier/bulkier items (including shoes) on the plane. Or…

Lighten your load

For a set price (around $26), you can ship home a large (12.25 x 12 x 6) U.S.P.S. priority box; that’s far less than checking an extra bag. Use it to send heavy or bulky items home (or to your destination in advance). I’ve even shipped dirty laundry home to lighten my load.

 

The Maine Travel Maven has returned

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From two-plus weeks on the road, mostly in Arizona, a bit in Boston (yes, they let me out of the state every now and then). I figured quiet and gray early November was the perfect time to take a quasi vacation. I’ll be ratcheting up the output over the next week as I get back in the work groove. Thanks for your patience!

Where in Maine?

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Can you identify where in Maine this photo was taken?

Image copyright Tom Nangle.

Bangor’s Fiddlehead Restaurant delivers big flavors

My original plan was to graze my way through dinner by nibbling appetizers or choosing small plates at a handful of restaurants in Bangor, Brewer, and Orono. Based on recommendations from locals, my possibilities included a pulled-pork app at Fiddlehead; fish tacos at Luna; perhaps a return visit to Market Bistro, where I’d had a fabulous lunch; maybe sushi at Yoshi in Brewer; ending with something sweet and Greek at Market Cafe in Old Town or a housemade dessert at Thistle’s, an old reliable in Bangor.

Within minutes of sitting down in The Fiddlehead Restaurant‘s small,  inviting—if a bit loud—dining area, I abandoned that plan. One taste of the pork, and I knew I wasn’t going anywhere else. My sources had it right: More than one proclaimed this Bangor’s best restaurant. It’s casual, yet the service is spot on; the food is creative, yet it’s rooted in solid technique and the familiar.

Of course, it didn’t hurt that co-owner Laura Albin, who manages the front of the house, knows her wines and readily shares her knowledge. The restaurant, adjacent to Bangor Wine & Cheese, aims to introduce diners to lesser known wines and vintners. I ordered a glass of vouvray, but I have to tell ya, the signature nonalcoholic cucumber-mint lemonade also caught my eye.

Back to the menu. While the pork came highly recommended by more than one person, I was challenged by the possibilities: The sweet & savory stilton waffles and the laksa noodle soup also caught my eye and piqued my tastebuds, as did the feta and watermelon salad, and I hadn’t even flipped to the entrée side, where the usuals took unusual twists.

Still, I stuck with that adobo-spiced pulled pork served on a tortilla with avocado relish and house slaw, and I wasn’t disappointed. But I was overwhelmed. This appetizer was entree sized. Figuring I needed something green to round out my meal, I ordered the grilled romaine with Stilton, roasted garlic vinaigrette, herb-roasted tomatoes, and apple cider reduction, and in European style, ended my meal with it, letting the nice mix of flavors linger on my tongue before heading back to Orono’s comfy Black Bear Inn and calling it a night, after enjoying one of the inn’s chocolate chip cookies as a nightcap.

Note: Since I visited, co-owner Chef Melissa Chaiken has changed the menu, as she does quarterly.  So don’t go looking for that pork, but do go. And do make reservations.

Maine Huts & Trails opens Grand Falls Hut

Maine Huts & Trails, the hut-to-hut multi-use trail in Maine’s western mountains, got a big boost this weekend with the opening of its third hut, this one situated near Grand Falls of the Dead River. This makes three huts on the trail, which now extends from Carrabassett Valley to The Forks, making it an ideal long-weekend escape for any season.

All three off-the-grid huts (others are at Poplar Falls and on the shores of Flagstaff Lake) have hot showers, composting toilets, and a central lodge, where hearty meals are served family style. The dorms and family cabins are heated to 62 degrees; bunks with mattresses are equipped with pillows and fleece blankets; guests need to bring sheets or sleeping blankets. Depending upon location and season, you can hike, paddle, bike, ski, or snowshoe between them. All are family oriented. You won’t find a better way to immerse yourself in the glory of Maine in autumn (or any season, for that matter).

Foliage escapes: Antiquing and leaf-peeping in Cornish

Oh, here’s a gem—a delightful Maine village that oozes New England charm. Folded in the foothills of the White Mountains, well-seasoned Cornish is salted with architectural gems and peppered with antiques and crafts shops. Autumn, when the leaves are dazzling and both the apples and the antiques are ripe for pickin’, is prime time for a visit, followed by a ramble through the countryside.

Downtown Cornish isn’t big; rather, it’s a bend in Route 25 lined with shops, a classic inn, a good restaurant, and a town square. Park the car, and start shopping.

• Cornish Trading Company is a huge multi-vendor shop on multiple floors of the former Masonic building. Every nook and cranny has finds, and when you think you’re through, there’s another room, hallway, or staircase.

• Full Circle Artisan’s Gallery, across the street, carries fine crafts by Maine artists. This isn’t your grandmother’s craft shop; it’s filled with unique and wonderful handmade works—think Christmas, and shop for everyone on your list.

• Village Jewelers, which displays a drool-worthy selection of Maine gems (hint, hint: wish someone would shop for me, here).

Evie’s Eclectic Collections delivers on its name, with merchandise displayed in a beautifully restored mansion; go just for a peek inside, even if you have no interest in shopping.

And that’s just a taste; there are plenty of other folk art and funky antiques shops on the main drag. Once you’ve exhausted these, walk up (and I do mean up) High Street, behind the Trading Company to find a quilt store and a couple of more antiques and junktiques opportunities.

Ready to ramble? Mosey over to Parsonfield to view the Parsonfield-Porter covered bridge, a 152-foot double span over the Ossipee River dating from 1859, then on to  Apple Acres Farm in South Hiram. It’s just the place to pick Macs, Cortland, Macoun, Spencer, and Golden Delicious varieties and purchase fresh-pressed cider and perhaps a slice of apple pie.

Where to sleep:

Smack-dab downtown is the delightfully old-fashioned Cornish Inn, a three-story gently updated classic with a wraparound porch; locals tell me the dining room is excellent, but I  haven’t dined there. Rates include a self-serve continental breakfast.

Midway Country Lodging, a mile or two west of downtown, is a motel-like inn, or maybe an inn-like motel.

Down in Limerick, The handsome, brick, Greek Revival-style Jeremiah Mason Bed & Breakfast retains the elegance of a bygone era—and the price, with rooms beginning at $50. Spacious, antiques-accented rooms have chandeliers, marble fireplaces, and floor-to-ceiling windows.

Where to eat:

Krista’s Restaurant, in downtown Cornish, serves fabulous, fresh fare in huge portions in its cheerful dining rooms and on a screened deck overhanging a stream. Dinner options range from burgers and salads to salmon and steak, all with a creative flourish. U

ltra-fresh seafood is served at Bay Haven Lobster Pound Two, operated by a fishing family.

Dress down and order the humongous fisherman’s platter (and plan on sharing).

Good food at a good price, served in a pleasant country-style dining room across from Lake Sokokis has made The Peppermill Restaurant, in Limerick, a local favorite for all meals.

 

Foliage without crowds: Maine’s Schoodic region delivers big time

Last week I wrote about the Moosehead/Katahdin region as a favorite place to view the leaves but leave the crowds. This week, I’m sharing another: Maine’s Schoodic Region, that lovely, rural, magical area just northeast of Ellsworth. It packs a wallop, with not one, but two Scenic Byways, a portion of Acadia National Park, the fabulous Donnell Pond Public Reserve Lands, and the Petit Manan section of the Maine Coastal  Islands National Wildlife Reserve. Artists’ studios and galleries pepper the peninsulas and backroads, adding even more incentive to mosey about this gem. The mix of hardwoods and softwoods, ocean and lakes, mountains and barrens create a color palette unrivaled.

When Routes 1 and 3 split in Ellsworth, everything changes. The crowds (or what’s left of them, especially at this time of year) follow Route 3 to Mount Desert Island. Stay on Route 1 heading north, and within a few miles, you’ll leave the crowds, traffic, and box stores behind, and also the chain hotels and fast food joints.

Not that this region is ever really busy, but at this time of year, it’s almost empty. The summah rusticators have flown the coop, and the families have headed home, leaving the region to those who don’t mind that some shops and restaurants have closed and those that haven’t have cut back hours. It’s cozy, local, chummy. It’s not a good choice for fussbudgets, but for those who savor authentic Maine, well, this is the real deal.

Here’s the route:

Cut inland on Route 182, a.k.a. the Black Woods Byway. When foliage peaks, this route, which snakes through the hills and ponds of the Donnell Public Reserved Lands, is a spectacular chunk of color made only better by hiking Schoodic and/or Black Mountains for the views.

Detour into Cherryfield. While it doesn’t offer a lot in the way of visitor services, it makes up for that lack with spectacular architecture. Detour further for another dose of Maine: Dodge north toward Deblois for a dip into the rose-colored blueberry barrens of autumn (quick joke: What’s green in spring, blue in summer, red in autumn, then black? Answer: a Maine wild blueberry barren).

Return via Route 1, taking time to walk the trails of Petit Manan, then mosey down to Gouldsboro, with an out and back to Corea, a true lobstering community (it doesn’t get any more real than Corea).

Next, continue along the Schoodic National Scenic Byway, which loops out to the pink granite fingernails of Acadia National Park’s Schoodic finger. There are some nice picnic areas in this, the only mainland section of the park.

Finally, work your way back to the starting point, being sure to visit the numerous artists’ studios and galleries tucked in the woods just off the main drag: painting, furniture, quilts, pottery, rugs, weavings… all that and more.

Sleep

Three Pines B&B, an off-the-grid bed and breakfast on an organic farm overlooking the reversing falls. Really, what more could you want?

Elsa’s, a lovely B&B owned by a family with roots dating back generations upon generations; ask nicely, and you might even end up with a lobster dinner.

Main Stay Cottages, an oceanfront complex of cottages and a main house, within walking distance to the village.

EAT

Chipper’s, Route 1, Hancock, wide-ranging menu, nice dining area, new lounge, and fabulous chowder; finer dining but not fancy.

Crocker House Inn, Hancock Point, old -time charm combined with well prepared Continental fare; reliable and good; country classic.

Gerrish’s Store, Winter Harbor, sandwiches, soups, and baked goods; once a true old fashioned country store, it’s lost its soul over the years and given in to newfangled ways like free Wifi.

•  Chase’s, Winter Harbor, nothing fancy, nothing rave-worthy except that it’s usually open when everybody else is closed; the atmosphere leans toward grub-and-gossip dive, but there’s nothing wrong with that.