Maine Travel Maven

Top 10: What to see and do in Boothbay, Maine

Hilary Nangle

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August 31, 2010

Top 10: What to see and do in Boothbay, Maine

When I mention Boothbay, Maine, folks often cringe. They picture a small town overrun with tourists; cheek-by-jowl shops overstocked with Made-in-Japan lobster charms, lighthouse trinkets, and flimsy tee shirts; and way-too-many overpriced, oversized lobster shacks. But they don’t know the Boothbay I know.

While no visit is complete without braving the crowds in downtown Boothbay Harbor (awe, c’mon, you love it—ice cream, taffy, the pedestrian bridge, that summer-scented medley of sun, salt, greasy burgers, and popcorn), there’s plenty more to this region (encompassing Boothbay, Boothbay Harbor, East Boothbay, and Southport Island). Here’s my Top 10 list of what not to miss in the Boothbays. (Updated Dec. 24, 2019)

1. Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens

This isn’t just a top 10 for the Boothbays, it’s a top 10 for the entire state. Although relatively young, this amazing seaside garden keeps growing and developing. It has special gardens for the sensory impaired and for children. Trails weave through and along the oceanfront. Go for a few hours or spend the day (there’s a very good cafe on the premises), but don’t miss it. And return in winter for Gardens Aglow, from late November to late December.

2. Burnt Island Tour

If you’re traveling with kids, this is a must; if not, I still highly recommend it. You’ll cruise out to the island, pass through a time tunnel, and arrive circa 1952 to be greeted by and shown around by Lightkeeper Joseph Muise and his family. You’ll tour the house, perhaps climb the tower, get the lowdown on the flora and fauna and fisheries heritage, and return knowing what it really was like to live in an island lighthouse. NOTE: It appears that tours will not be offered in 2023.

ocean Point east boothbay — Ocean Point, tipping the East Boothbay side of the peninsula, is a must-see for sunsets and ocean views when visiting Boothbay, Maine. © Hilary Nangle

3. Southport Island & Ocean Point

Head out either of these peninsulas either on a bike (if you’re an experienced cyclist) or for a lazy drive and discover two old-time summer colonies, along with great general stores, lovely cottages, a few inns, hiking trails, beaches, lighthouse views, and other treasures.

4. Hiking a Boothbay Region Land Trust Preserve:

The options are plentiful, and I guarantee you’ll lose the crowds quickly. Porter is the most popular, Ovens Mouth is more challenging, and Linekin has some cool sights like an old sawmill and a beaver dam. All deliver dreamy water views.

5. Lobster roll from the Trevett Country Store

Many Mainahs think these are the state’s best. You can eat overlooking the swing bridge or if you can hold off on digging in, take your feast to nearby Knickercane Island for a picnic.

6. Concert on the library lawn

Bring a chair or a blanket, pack a picnic, and join locals, summah folks, from-aways, and anyone else in the ‘hood. It’s the place to be on a Thursday evening.

Boothbay Harbor has some topnotch art galleries, including Gleason Fine Art right on Main Street. Hilary Nangle photo. — Gleason Fine Art carries the work of many of Maine’s best artists. ©Hilary Nangle

7. Gallery hop

Of course, a region as pretty as this one is an artist magnet. Two galleries of note (and there are plenty of others): In town, don’t miss Gleason Fine Art, which shows and sells works by some of Maine’s finest artists. And be sure to loop out to the other side of the harbor to visit Villard Studios. Sculptor Philippe Villard and painter Kim Villard summer here and winter in a abandoned village in the midst of a national park in France (how cool is that?) and collaborate on woodcuts and homemade books. The results are in collections and museums.

sea kayaker — Sea kayaking is a fun way to explore the coastal waters lapping Boothbay shores. ©Hilary Nangle

8. Sea kayaking

Sure you can go out on the big excursion boats, but the best way to see the harbor is by paddling. In a kayak, you can venture close to shore front sights and get out and explore islands, too. For the less adventuresome, guided tours are available.

9. Cabbage Island Clambakes

Pricey, yes, but this is two-fer in more ways than one. For starters, you get not only a traditional lobster and clam bake, but you also get the boat ride to the island. And not only that. You also get two (!) lobsters, in addition to chowder, clams, corn on the cob, an egg, onions, potatoes, and even a slab of blueberry pie. It’s not just a lobster dinner, it’s an experience.

Sail across Boothbay Harbor and around coastal islands on a traditional Maine windjammer. ©Hilary nangle

10. Windjammer sail

Herb and Doris Smith have built six schooners, five named Appledore and their current one, Eastwind. A two-hour sail on this beauty will have you singing Boothbay’s praises as you cruise around the islands sheltering the harbor. Wind at your back, sun on your face, now you understand Boothbay’s allure.

Doughnuts and pho: Bakers Way in Boothbay Harbor is a dual find

Hilary Nangle

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August 29, 2010

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Yes, I know doughnuts and pho is as unusual a combination as steamed dumplings and sticky buns or spring rolls and bear claws, but Bakers Way, a combo bakery and Vietnamese restaurant in Boothbay Harbor, Maine, does both baked goods and Vietnamese foods well.

Not that you’d know it. The lackluster exterior isn’t inviting, and the interior is purely functional—vinyl, steel, and Formica, but there’s life in this place, and locals know it. This isn’t fancy Asian; it’s an order-at-the-counter place, but it serves better-than-average renditions of the usuals with some bright spots (love the spring rolls and the steamed dumplings; friends rave about the yellow curry and the beef salad).

I frequent Bakers Way for the food, but there are a lot of other pluses. For starters, there’s a lovely and shaded garden dining area hidden out back that I didn’t even discover it until my third or fourth visit; it’s not on the radar screen of most vacationers, so it’s rarely crowded; it has parking; and it’s open year round (okay, maybe not that garden). I also think it’s one of the more reliable restaurants in Boothbay Harbor. Full confession: The other day I had not only lunch at Bakers Way with a friend, I returned for take-out to carry home.

Savor summer at Migis Lodge on Sebago Lake

Hilary Nangle

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August 24, 2010

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Savor summer at Migis Lodge on Sebago Lake

Migis Lodge is an all-inclusive cottage-style retreat on Maine's Sebago Lake. ©Hilary Nangle — The guest cottages at Migis Lodge are just steps from Sebago Lake’s shoreline. @Hilary Nangle

Migis Lodge is a gem, a magical all-inclusive retreat sheltered by towering pines and edging Sebago Lake. It’s the kind of place that echoes in your memories long after you’ve visited.

An all-inclusive vacation on Sebago Lake

Big windows frame Sebago Lake from the varied cottages and suites at Migis Lodge. ©Hilary Nangle — Guest cottages are comfy and decorated in am upscale L.L. Bean meets Polo Ralph Lauren style. @Hilary Nangle

Migis is an indulgent escape that includes leisurely breakfasts, island picnic or outdoor barbecue lunches, and multi-course dinners after lakeside cocktails.

Guests reside in elegant cottages (think L.L. Bean meets Polo Ralph Lauren decor), perhaps watching the sunset over the lake from their porch or relaxing by a wood fire in their field stone fireplace before falling asleep to the waves lapping on the lake’s shore and maybe a distant loon dry.

Paddle along Sebago's shoreline or out to an island from Migis Lodge. © — Guests have use of canoes, kayaks, sailboats, and other watercraft, and water-skiing sessions are offered. ©Hilary Nangle

During the day, water-skiing, tennis, fishing, paddling, sailing, swimming, sand-castle building, hiking, are all yours.

Add a spa tent in the woods and a sheltered but outdoor fitness area.

And a children’s program that includes dinner, a family dining room, a recreation center with evening activities such as Bingo, and such old-time games as shuffleboard.

And a masterfully restored wooden motor launch for lake tours.

Car-free, campus-like grounds at Migis Lodge

Relax while gazing over gardens to Sebago Lake. ©Hilary Nangle — The landscaped grounds of Migis Lodge include gardens, lawns, and natural areas. ©Hilary Nangle

The lodge and cottages are connected by paths on car-free, campus-like grounds lush with gardens, mature trees, and green lawns. There are beaches for swimming, docks for diving and boating, floats for sunning, and lounge chairs positioned for taking it all in or simply reading or, yes, snoozing.

I had the good fortune to be invited to stay here one summer, and I haven’t stopped thinking about it. I want to return again, and again, and again. I’m guessing you will, too.

Machias is wild about blueberries

Hilary Nangle

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August 16, 2010

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One of my favorite Maine festivals is happening this weekend, the Machias Wild Blueberry Festival. This one is more than a simple festival, it’s a full weekend event, a pull-out the stops community celebration with such must-attend activities as:

• the Blueberry Musical: This year, it’s Rakealot, a blueberry romance based on Camelot. This is a don’t miss event. The production changes every year, but the talent, which rivals big-city productions, is all local, from the writers and directors to the musicians and the cast, and the theme always centers around Machias, blueberries and how Down Easters deal with life Down East. During the show, visitors learn a little more about harvesting, and there’s always a moral twist. “After all, this is a church,” said a former musical coordinator, “we have to keep the spirit of the house intact.” You might not get every local reference, but you’ll recognize the music (with different words, of course; as one participant told me: “it’s fruitified”) and you’ll get the gist of it all. Performances are scheduled Tuesday through Saturday; it’s always a sell out.

• blueberry pie-eating contest: Serious competition in these parts, with a lottery determining who will compete in four age groupings of 10 contestants: 7-10, 11-14, 15-18, and adults. Always fun to watch.

• cooking contest: Not simply pies, no this contest is open to everything blueberry. Just check out these categories: Appetizers, Breads, Rolls & Muffins, Coffee Cakes, Dessert Cakes, Cookies, Bars & Squares, Doughnuts, Desserts & Puddings, Jams & Jellies, Pancakes & Waffles, One-Crust Pies, Two-Crust Pies, Salads, Punch & Wines, Relishes, Entrees, and Sugar-Free recipes. And yes, everything must be made from scratch.

• Blueberry Farm Tours: Learn the difference between high- and low-bush bluberries and see how they’re harvested.

• the Blackfly Ball, Sat. Aug. 21: a free community-oriented dress-up dance. This year’s music will be provided by the Orange River Jazz Band, the UMM Ukulele Club, and the Rude Mechanical Orchestra. The Debo band will play on a second stage at Bad Little Falls Park. How cool is that!

• 250+ craft vendors: Individuals as well as nonprofits including the Maine Blackfly Breeders Association (might not want to approach that one without a healthy dosing of DEET).

Other events include: Children’s Parade and kids activities, quilt raffle, Friday night fish fry, blueberry pancake breakfasts, and a Saturday baked bean supper.

The festival is sponsored by the Centre Street Congregational Church, so there’s also a Sunday morning service that’s open to everyone, too.

A tisket, a tasket, a Native American basket, and much more

Hilary Nangle

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August 10, 2010

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If you’re traveling along the Maine coast, you might want to detour inland a bit to catch this new festival: Tribes of the Dawn Land Cultural and Heritage Days: The first annual Wabanaki cultural arts and heritage days celebration.

Well, that’s a mouthful, but here’s the gist of why you might want to mosey inland from Calais to Princeton, Maine, this weekend, Aug. 14-15: It’s an opportunity to watch basketmakers, wood carvers, jewelry makers, canoe makers, and others demonstrate their crafts, as well as to enjoy drumming and dancing and storytelling. Native guides will be on hand, too. Not only will you be able to watch these skilled artisans craft fine works, but also purchase ash and sweetgrass baskets, birchbark works, walking and talking sticks, and bead-and quill jewelry direct from the makers. The event takes place on Passamaquoddy Tribal Lands, on Route 1 in Indian Township (north of Princeton).

Do you believe in fairies? A Maine garden opens doors to their homes

Hilary Nangle

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August 5, 2010

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Do you believe in fairies? A Maine garden opens doors to their homes

Yes, I know this weekend is the Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland, but if you’re seeking a quieter escape, one that might awaken that sense of magic in your kids or grandkids, then head to Boothbay for the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens’ annual Maine Fairy House Festival. This year, it takes place in the brand spanking new Bibby and Harold Alfond Children’s Garden.

Of course there are fabulous fairy houses to view, but there also are fairy house building oppotunities, fairy arts and crafts, games such as the gnome toss and gnome bowling, storytelling, readings by childrens authors, book signings by Fairy Houses series author Tracy Kane, a parade, fairy teas, live performances, workshops, and plentiful live entertainment. Note: Some of those workshops are filling quickly, so you might want to call for reservations.

P.S. You don’t have to be a kid to go to this or enjoy it. C’mon, I know you believe, don’t you?

Maine travel must: Univ. Maine at Machias Ukulele Club Band

Hilary Nangle

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August 3, 2010

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Maine travel must: Univ. Maine at Machias Ukulele Club Band

For the past two years, University of Maine at Machias Professor Gene Nichols (on drums, photo) and the UMM Ukulele Club Band have performed at the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. The band, originally formed in 1926, has staged a revival, with the wacky professor (no, really, just watch the UMM Ukulele Club with Prof. Gene Nichols on the saw, he plays to the crowd) at the helm.

The amateur band comprises community members from about 9 to over 90, with close to two dozen or so often crowding on the stage. Talk about a good time! You can’t help but enjoy the show. Don’t expect stodgy music, this band rocks: Here’s a 2007 performance of Back in the USSR.

If you’re traveling Down East and have an opportunity to catch this group, do so. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Grammy’s Country Kitchen, Linneus, Maine: Just like Grandma’s, only better

Hilary Nangle

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July 31, 2010

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Grammy’s Country Kitchen, Linneus, Maine: Just like Grandma’s, only better

The whoopie pies at Grammy's are humongous — At Grammy’s Country Kitchen, one whoopie pie easily feeds four people, especially if you’re chasing a meal here with it. ©Hilary Nangle

Diet in advance, order conservatively, and plan to share. That advice comes paired with nearly any recommendation for Grammy’s Country Inn. This unassuming restaurant in Linneus, just southwest of Houlton, has a reputation that may exceed the ginormous portions of scratch-made comfort foods it serves.

Now I’ve been to a lot of home-cookin’ joints in Maine, but I’ve never seen portions as huge as those served in this place. Nor have I ever seen such humongous whoopie pies.

“One lady asked us to weigh one,” a waitress told me when I was admiring one of these two-fisted treats. “So I took it out back. The scale only goes to 2.5 pounds, and it went straight down and stayed there.” A customer standing nearby said she buys one and easily splits it four ways.

Two kitchen helpers peel potatoes outside Grammy's Country Kitchen — How fresh are the spuds at Grammy’s Country Kitchen? You might just catch some of the kitchen workers peeling ’em outside. ©Hilary Nangle

Mostly made from scratch with local ingredients

“We make almost everything from scratch,” says owner Steve Graham. “Every piecrust is hand kneaded. We boil our own eggs; peel our own potatoes. They’re aren’t many places that go through the gravy we go through and make it from scratch.”

Whenever possible, making from scratch means locally sourcing ingredients, including fiddleheads, broccoli, and seafood. “We use about 3,000 pounds of potatoes each week, all County potatoes, I’ve never bought a bag from elsewhere,” Graham says. He loads his pickup at a local farm, and it’s not unusual to see workers stationed outside the restaurant peeling mountains of them.

Specials board at Grammy's — Portions are big and prices are small at Grammy’s Country Kitchen, just south of Houlton. ©Hilary Nangle

Plan on plentiful leftovers

Grammy's chef's salad — The chef’s salad from Grammy’s easily can feed two people and still have leftovers. ©Hilary Nangle

Everything at Grammy’s comes in gigunda sizes. The couple next to us ordered chicken salad sandwiches. There must have been a pound of homemade goodness between those two slices of homemade bread. It required a fork to eat (seriously!).

Tom had a chef salad made with home-cooked chicken and home-cooked ham plus lots of other goodies (tons of vegies, meats, and cheeses and very little lettuce). It fed him for lunch, then the two of us later for dinner. One salad: three meals.

Had to laugh when I saw an ice cream puff go by: Must have been a pint of ice cream atop the pastry and drowned in chocolate sauce and whipped cream. Could have fed a family of four, but it was ordered by one lone guy at a table, who washed it down with milk.

Grammy’s Country Inn fries everything

Now Grammy’s will deep fry just about everything. The day’s specials might include deep-fried fiddleheads, deep-fried broccoli, and deep-fried lobster (?!…Sometimes, you can take a good thing too far, lobster? really?) But when it comes to fries, remember, Aroostook is Maine’s potato county. Now plenty of places claim to make their own fries, but as I left, I watched two young men outback peeling the potatoes. I’m a believer. The plates of fried clams came mounded atop the fries. Honestly, it kind of looked the Mt. Everest of fried seafood dinners!

Bottom line: Planning on leaving with leftovers. Even then, you’ll barely make a dent in the wallet.

UPDATE: Visited Grammy’s in 2019, and it still dishes out humongous portions of comfort food. And those whoopie pies still weigh in well over 2 pounds.

Grammy's Country Inn home-cooking rstaurant, Linneus, Maine — This unassuming restaurant in Linneus, just southwest of Houlton, has a reputation that may exceed the ginormous portions of scratch-made comfort foods it serves. ©Hilary Nangle

Ployes, creton, and chicken stew

Hilary Nangle

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July 30, 2010

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Whenever I asked a local where to get the best taste of the St. John Valley (or St. Jean, if you’re French)—that strip of Acadian culture separated from New Brunswick, Canada, by the St. John River—the answer was always a variation of: “You must go to Dolly’s for the best ployes, creton, and chicken stew.”

And so I went.

Twice.

Backstory: I’ve been cruising through Downeast Maine and Aroostook County for the past week researching the new edition of Moon Maine (spring 2011), and I’m finally home and in one place long enough (and with reliable Internet access) to start dishing on my finds and giving you updates on what’s happening in these rural Maine gems.

When first told that Dolly’s was a must, we headed right there. Unfortunately, it was a Tuesday, when it’s closed. Now frankly, Dolly’s, on Route 1 in Frenchville, isn’t much to look at from the outside, and we hadn’t planned to return, but as we continued down the road and kept asking, the answer remained Dolly’s. So we made a 70-mile detour to return for breakfast on Wednesday, and oh! my! yes!

Now we couldn’t order that famous chicken stew at breakfast, but we did have Dolly’s homemade ployes (rhymes with toys) and homemade creton (cray-tahn).

Say what? you ask. Ployes—French-Acadian buckwheat pancakes cooked only on one side—are traditionally served like bread with every meal. And creton is a French-Canadian meat spread. Put the two together, and perhaps add a bit (or more) real maple syrup, and the result is heaven. I like to think the health benefits of the ployes cancel out the artery-busting creton.

“Dolly’s has been here forever,” our waitress said, as I watched her pour the batter onto the griddle and cook the ployes. The reason Dolly’s ployes are so good is that they’re made from scratch. “It’s an old recipe, and they’re homemade,” she said. “I make ployes at home, and it took me a long time to get the recipe and the cooking right.” The biggest problem is getting the griddle temperature right. “They’re so easy to burn,” she said. The creton, too, is a secret recipe.

Earlier in the week, I’d purchased copy of Michael Corbin’s Cafe de la Place cookbook (Unfortunately, his downtown Madawaska restaurant is no more). It has a recipe for ployes that I plan to make, but I also purchased a bag of Bouchard Family Farms ployes mix, too. The farm, in Fort Kent, has long been producing this easy-to-make mix, which you can usually find in specialty and natural foods stores.

The Acadians, by the way, are descendants of the original French settlers in Grand Pre, Nova Scotia, who were driven out by the English. Some returned to France, others escaped to New Orleans (where they’re known as Cajuns), and others escaped and scattered throughout Maritime Canada. Twelve families eventually settled in the St. John Valley, where their heritage still flavors the region. More on this in future posts.

And next time I’m up in the crown of Maine, I’ll time my visit to Dolly’s to have some of that famous chicken stew.

Note: Check out my review with recipes of the Bouchard Family Farms French-Acadian Cookbook: Keeping the Tradition Alive.

10 reasons to visit Peaks Island, Maine

Hilary Nangle

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July 20, 2010

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My friend Jackie Dishner—author of Backroads & Byways of Arizona, speaker, and mountain bike rider—dishes on her day on Peaks earlier this summer.

by Jackie Dishner

My first overnight stay in Portland, and I woke up to foggy windows. Rain. It was pouring outside, and I had no umbrella. More a day for museums, my friend Hilary Nangle told me. But I decided to wait it out. I had hopes to take the ferry over to Peaks Island. Her Moon guidebook to Coastal Maine suggested this would be a good idea while in town. Lucky me. By 9:30 a.m., the rain had stopped. I left the Portland Harbor Hotel and stopped off at the Standard Baking Company on Commercial Street, grabbing a cup of coffee and a danish to eat at the harbor. My plan turned out to be a great idea. Here are 10 reasons why:

1: The ferry ride

Purchase the $7.70 (price good till October 11) ticket for a ride on the ferry from Portland Harbor over to the island. Check the schedule online, but Casco Bay Lines makes regular trips throughout the day, rain or shine. It also runs year-round.

2: A taste of Americana

Kids still set up the lemonade stands curbside here. For 50 cents, I could have bought a cup of ice cold lemonade. I paid a dollar, instead. Young entrepreneurs deserve something extra for their ambitious drive.

3: “On your honor”

You can pick up a jar of homemade honey at the end of Evergreen Ledge from Peaks Island Honey Company. Just leave the $3 in the coffee can and take your jar home with you. I haven’t tried mine, yet, but I suspect it’s going to be good. If nothing else, you take home the satisfaction that there are people out there who still value trust.

4: Bike rentals—cheap

For $10 bucks I rented a mountain bike from Brad’s Island Bike Rentals & Repairs and rode it around the whole island, stopping off at the points Brad maps out for his customers. Brad says he’s been in business for more than 20 years, claiming to be the first to deal in “recycled” bikes. It’s a play on words; he means “used.”

The weather turned out to be near perfect, the ride was smooth, and I found a hidden cemetery along the way. I also bought two of his t-shirts. Ka-ching! Forty more bucks. Hey, I’m a sucker for small business.

5: The locals

I stopped in at a cooperative gallery on the island (GEM Island Artists Gallery) and had a chat with Dustine Price. From Maryland, she lives on the island with her family during the summers; it’s a generational thing, so you can ask her all kinds of questions about the place. Plus, you can take home something personal to remind you of your trip. She specializes in sea glass products and anything recyclable. I was personally enamored with her mermaid–made out of Diet Coke cans. It’s been several weeks since I left, and I’m still tempted to have that thing shipped out to me. Thought-provoking art can do that to you.

6: Unexpected museum

Who knew the Army had a Civil War regiment that met up on this island? They did–for annual reunions–and it’s all explained at the The Eighth Maine Regiment Memorial. Brad from the bike shop pointed me there. Dr. Richard S. Adams will talk your ear off, telling you about Maine’s part in two World Wars, all the people who ever stepped foot inside the Queen Anne cottage constructed in 1891 (because of a Louisiana Lottery Gen. William M. McArthur won), and how it once served as a dance and recreation hall. It still does. “I sure like to dance,” he’ll tell you, with a wink. The living museum also serves as a hostel, renting out rooms for less than $600 a week.

7: A quirky museum, too

You’ll get a kick out of the Umbrella Cover Museum. Yes, that’s right. Umbrella covers. Floral ones. Plain ones. Homemade ones. Domestic. International. Mostly donated. They’re hanging from the ceiling, tacked on the walls, in the bathroom! Nancy Hoffman is the director and curator of the tiny bungalow that houses hundreds of them. Also an accordion player, she’ll play her music while you look around. On your way out, you can purchase the CDs. She also has a new book out about the museum itself. I left $20, and hope I get my copy soon.

8: Kayaking

I didn’t get a chance to try this activity, but you can, if you call Maine Island Kayak ahead of time to reserve a space: 207-766-2373. They offer various types of tours, including half-day, full-day and multi-day trips. You can learn about the Casco Bay area, the ecology of the area, or simply be introduced to the world of sea kayaking if you’ve never done it.

9: Birding

You’re on an island, surrounded by water. It stands to reason there will be birds–and not just seagulls. If you walk around or bike around, plan to park your butt somewhere for a while and take a look. The peaceful sounds will relax you.

10: Eating

I wouldn’t want you to starve while on the island. You’ll have your pick of three different restaurants, and I’d pick The Peaks Island House because it faces the bay, has outdoor seating, and serves seafood, steaks and sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Plus, if you have a group with you, it’s affordable.

There’s more to see and do here, but I wanted to make the 4:15 p.m. ferry ride back to Portland and get a quick taste of the Summer Ale at the Old Port Sea Grill. After that, I had plans to relax before dinner in Room 222 at the Portland Harbor Hotel; it had a hot tub with jets calling my name.