Sneak Preview: Coastal Maine Botanical Garden’s Children’s Garden

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Sneak Preview: Coastal Maine Botanical Garden’s Children’s Garden

Yesterday I toured the new Bibby and Harold Alfond Children’s Garden at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, in Boothbay. Wow! Based on Maine children’s literature, landscape architect Herb Schaal, FASLA, has created a magical world of wonder, brought to life by project Nick Caristo in nine months. It’s an interactive experience without any buttons to push or techological gizmos. It’s natural, it’s beautiful, it fires the imagination, and I’m guessing it will be as popular with parents and grandparents as with kids. Put it on your Must Visit list, and plan to return again and again. Label this a family treasure.

The Grand Opening celebration on Thursday, July 8, kicks off at 9 a.m. with children’s activities on CMBA’s great lawn, moves to welcoming remarks at 10:30 a.m., then it really gets rolling with a parade at 11:15 a.m. Expect children’s literary characters brought to life. Following the parade, the chicken and frogs will be let loose in the children’s garden, and what kid wouldn’t want to miss that? Activities will continue throughout the day, with refreshments in the Seagull pavilion.

CBMA is magical in itself, and last year’s addition of the Lerner Garden of the Five Senses already was a kid pleaser, with its touch-sniff-listen-taste in addition to see attributes (a reflexology labyrinth to be walked barefoot, scented plantes, herbs, waterfall, etc.), but the new children’s garden is a natural world designed just for them.

In the Children’s Garden:

• Visit with a topiary Miss Rumphius in the Lupine Meadow

• climb upon Sal’s bear from Robert McCLoskey’s Blueberries for Sal (the wonderful statue was created by Nancy Schon, the same artist who made the Make Way for Ducklings statue in Boston’s Public Garden)

• walk across stepping stones and bridges connecting the Blueberry Islands

• pull traps from McCloskey’s Burt Dow Deepwater Man’s Tidely Idley

• play amidst the spouting whales inspired by Down to the Sea with Mr. Magee by Chris VanDusen

• watch the long johns flirt with the housedress from Ethel Pochoki’s Rosebud and Red Flannel

Kids can

• play amidst rock dragons (like the spouting whales, crafted by Carol Hanson)

• wander through Veronica’s Maze

• hide in a cozy bear den

• clamber around a huge tree house with rope bridge connecting two sections (the treehouse itself, thanks to its design, is wheelchair acceessible, as is most of the garden)

• jump stumps in the forest

• build fairy houses in the woods

• vote for the fastest-growing beans in a pole bean contest

They also can borrow a book from about 300 Maine-related children’s literature titles in the library, and read it anywhere in the garden, or listen to someone read to them from the huge, handcrafted from driftwood storyteller’s chair.

Later this month, Barry Dana, former chief of the Penobscot Nation, will be building a wigwam, firepit, and even a birchbark canoe in garden’s the Wabanaki Village.

And that’s just a taste of the magic in this two-acre wonder.

Grazing through Quebec: Les Peres Nature market and cafe is a bon choice

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Grazing through Quebec: Les Peres Nature market and cafe is a bon choice
Eat at Les Peres Nature in St. George, Quebec.
When heading to Quebec City from Maine, Les Peres Nature in St. Georges is the perfect stop for food, both to enjoy on site or to carry away. ©Hilary Nangle

Whenever traveling between Maine and Quebec City, instead of stopping en route for that ubiquitous fast-food cheeseburger, I savor a taste of Quebec at Les Pères Nature in St. Georges. Fresh, flavorful foods with an authentic regional accent fill this combination market, gelato bar, café, and fine dining restaurant housed in a cheery orange, blue, and yellow building with can’t-miss mural and a windmill (really!).

Eat, dine, picnic, or nibble at Les Peres Nature

I usually create a picnic to enjoy at either an indoor or outdoor table or along the riverfront by pairing buttery, flaky croissants or a crusty baguette with Quebec farmstead cheeses–try the tomme de Kamouraska, a semi-soft raw sheep’s milk cheese, the migneron de Charlevoix, a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese, or the rassembleu, a raw milk bleu. Complement these with fresh fruit, smoked salmon, housemade pâtés, terrines, and confections.

Sometimes, I opt for selection from the salad bar or prepared foods counter, maybe a smoked-meat sandwich. But I always finish with a scoop from the ice cream/gelato counter or something delicious from the eye-candy dessert case.

When I’m craving a hot meal, sometimes I’ll  duck into Le P’tit Grand Café, serving crepes and omelets, croissants and beans for breakfast and a set three-course menu for lunch.

Where to eat in St. Georges, Quebec
It’s easy to spot Les Peres Nature in St. Georges, Quebec, just look for the brightly painted windmill. ©Hilary Nangle

Pick up delicious souvenirs at Les Peres Nature

En route home, in addition to stocking up on cheeses and other goodies, I always pick up a Quebec meat pie to warm and serve as a taste-full souvenir. This time, I also purchased a Tortierre du Saguenary, which is currently warming in the oven. Pared with a salad, I expect to replicate a night in one of Quebec City’s traditional restaurants. C’ést bon!

Père Nature in St. Georges is two-minutes off Route 173, about an hour north of Jackman, Maine. Turn west (toward the river) at the traffic light with Canadian Tire. Just look for the windmill. Bon appétit!

A ramble through Quebec’s Eastern Townships: Coaticook

Hilary Nangle
-
1
A ramble through Quebec’s Eastern Townships: Coaticook

Drive northwest on Route 27, a Maine Scenic Byway, from Sugarloaf, in Carrabassett Valley, and after passing Flagstaff Lake and Chain of Ponds and passing through a tiny border crossing, you arrive on the eastern edge of Canada’s Eastern Townships.

I tend to think of the townships as New England north, but with a decidedly French accent (not to mention French food and flair). I traveled with three gal pals, taking a circuitous route through this landscape of lakes and mountains, farmlands and villages, en route to a conference in Quebec.

First stop: Coaticook Gorge. Timing is everything, and we managed to squeeze a 1.5-hour mosey through along trails between thunderstorm downpours. Highlight: Crossing the 554-foot-long, six-foot-wide bridge suspended 154 feet above the gorge (that’s about 16 stories). According to Guinness, it’s the longest suspension footbridge in the world. Pretty impressive, with just enough wobble in the walk to raise the heartbeat a tinch.

An excellent restaurant on the premises serves local foods. As we enjoyed cheeses, smoked fish, and other goodies, our waitress pointed to nearby tables: “The cheese comes from their farm; he smokes the fish.” Nice selection of local crafts on display, both in the restaurant and at the adjacent shop.

We rewarded ourselves for the somewhat soggy trek with an ice cream at Laiterie de Coaticook, just up the road. Oh. My. We were told this was some of the best ice cream in Quebec, and I can’t argue with that. This area is the region’s dairy center, so the ice cream is ultra fresh and comes in rather creative flavors. I chose a Bordeaux cherry chocolate amaretto. Yup, that’s all one flavor, and it was divine.

Lose the crowds, find the Berwicks

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Lose the crowds, find the Berwicks
The Jewett House is one of two historical houses in the berwicks
The Sarah Orne Jewett House Museum and Visitor Center is smack dab in downtown South Berwick. ©Hilary Nangle

The Berwicks aren’t on the usual tourist loop, but these southwestern Maine communities reward visitors with historical homes and literary connections. Snugged against the New Hampshire border, North and South Berwick are located fewer than 30 minutes from the coast. A rural ramble here is especially worthwhile for those who appreciate historical homes and literary heritage (authors Gladys Hasty Carroll and Sarah Orne Jewett).  Updated March 6, 2023

Where to stay in the Berwicks

South Berwick is best known for two Historic New England properties. The Sarah Orne Jewett House Museum and Visitor Center  is smack dab in the center of downtown South Berwick. Jewett, who penned that New England classic, The Country of the Pointed Firs, spent much of her life in this 1774 Georgian. It’s now a National Historic Landmark. The adjacent 1865 Greek Revival now houses the visitor center.

Hamilton House
Hamilton House draws architecture buffs, garden lovers, and fans of author Sarah Orne Jewett to South Berwick. @Hilary Nangle

The nearby Hamilton House, a striking Georgian mansion built by shipping magnate Jonathan Hamilton in 1785, crowns a bluff overlooking the Salmon Falls River. Later owners modified it into what is now considered one of New England’s loveliest Colonial-Revival country estates. The house served as the setting for Jewett’s The Tory Lover.

While touring the property is a must for garden fans, the Sundays in the Garden series, in July, draws music lovers to late-afternoon concerts held in the perennial gardens outside the home.

Other local sights

Berwick Academy in The Berwicks
The Fogg Memorial on the campus of Berwick Academy. ©Hilary Nangle

Fans of Jewett will want to see a few other area sights. The author helped fund and design the  Romanesque Revival William H. Fogg Memorial on the Berwick Academy campus. Many of the buildings 19th-century stained glass windows are credited to Victorian artist Sarah Wyman Whitman, who also designed jackets for Jewett’s books. Jewett commissioned the dove with wreath to commemorate the Civil War. Delve deeper into local history at the Old Berwick Historical Society, which also highlights Sarah Orne Jewett-related sites on its website.

A path through the forest connects Vaughan Woods State Park, a 250-acre riverside preserve, to the Hamilton House. The park, with about 3 miles of trails weaving through pines and hemlocks and along the river, is a fine place for a picnic.

Eating and sleeping in the Berwicks

Call it a night at the Lady Mary Inn, a handsome Queen Anne-Eastlake B&B in North Berwick. ©Hilary Nangle

Another plus: Because they’re off most tourists’ radar screens, North and South Berwick are a good choice for those seeking food or lodging without coastal crowds or prices (it took me less than half an hour to drive from Kennebunkport).

And if you want to spend the night, consider The Lady Mary Inn at Hurd Manor (above), a B&B in North Berwick. This masterfully restored, 25-room Queen Anne Eastlake, listed on the National Historic Register, is furnished with  plentiful antiques, but it isn’t at all stuffy. It also serves afternoon tea.

Another choice: The Stage House Inn in South Berwick, recently opened after a handsome renovation and updating. Also here is Dufour Cocktails & Provisions (I enjoyed a light meal here). But note: It’s a popular wedding venue.

Glendarragh Farm Lavender’s new Camden store is heaven scent

Hilary Nangle
-
0

I’m a huge lavender fan, not just for the scent, but also the taste. Lavender Earl Grey tea, lavender shortbread, lavender chocolate, lavender chicken… if the ingredients list lavender, I’m a goner. No surprise, then that my nose drew me into Glendarragh Farm Lavender’s new store in downtown Camden, and trust me, for lavender fans, this place truly is heaven scent: lotions, sachets, bath salts, soaps, teas, sweets, sachets, dried lavender, lavender plants; it’s all here perfuming the store and  the street outside its front door.

The name Glendarragh, Gaelic for “Glen of the Oaks,” honors owners Lorie and Patrick Costigan’s Irish ancestry and refers to the oak forests that line the fields and pathways of theit 26-acre riverfront family farm in Appleton, where they grew multiple varieties of both French and English lavender.

You can also visit Glendarragh Lavender Farm in Appleton.

 

Maine dish: In Good Company, Rockland

Hilary Nangle
-
1

Met an old friend at In Good Company. Here’s the report:

In Good Company

Smack downtown in Rockland’s version of a restaurant row, In Good Company has built a strong following by excelling at delivering what it promises. Chef/owner Melody Wofertz, a Culinary Institute of America grad, has created an equally chic and casual wine and tapas bar, an inviting space with bar, tables, even couch seating (be sure to look up the ceiling, with its elegant relief design.

We married a mix of tapas selections, including a charcuterie plate, stuffed peppers, and the day’s cheese selections, along with glasses of wine. Service was prompt, efficient, and friendly; food was delicious and plentiful (we split leftovers), and the atmosphere? Well, two hours passed in no time. This remains one of my go-to faves for a lighter meal (although there are larger plates, too), paired with nice wines.

 

Bridesmaids no longer: Arrows wins Beard award

Hilary Nangle
-
0

Finally, in their sixth nomination, Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier, chef/owners of Arrows, in Ogunquit, win the big kahoona: The James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef in the Northeast award. Congrats, guys!

Grazing through Portland: Asmara

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Grazing through Portland: Asmara

Asmara has been on my must-dine list for a long time, and I finally stopped by for dinner the other day. Now I didn’t dine in, as I had a long drive ahead of me and I was running late already, but I did pick up an appetizer and an entrée to go, after chef/owner Asmeret Teklu assured me it would reheat nicely in the microwave.

Asmara is hidden away on Oak Street, in the block between Congress and Free. It’s a small, unassuming storefront restaurant, yet quite welcoming. Teklu is pretty much a one-woman show, and she greets visitors with a warm smile. The restaurant itself is quite pleasant, decorated with photos, baskets, and other artifacts complementing the Eritrean cuisine.

Did you raise an eyebrow on that one? Eritrea edges the Red Sea in eastern Africa and is bordered by Ethiopia, Sudan, and Djibouti. Once part of Ethiopia, it gained independence in the early 1990s after a prolonged struggle. Not surprisingly, the foods are similar. Asmara is the country’s capital.

Asmara (the restaurant) serves its dishes in the traditional way: on injera, a spongy bread made from unleavened teff flour. This bread is used as an eating utensil; you break off bits and use them to grab the main dish. That main dish is usually a tsebhi, a stew of peas, lentils, and red pepper. It’s available vegetarian style or with chicken, beef, or lamb.

Each entrée is accompanied by a salad and choice of vegetable (red lentil stew in red pepper sauce, collard greens and kale in a mild yellow sauce, or cabbage, carrots, and potatoes in a mild yellow sauce).

I ordered a beef sambusa appetizer, which comprised ground beef, pepper, and onions wrapped in dough and deep fried, as well as the alitcha deho, (chicken stew), which came with three chicken drumsticks and a hard-boiled egg in a curried yellow sauce, accompanied by the collard greens and kale. Since I was taking it to go, the red lentil stew was substituted for the salad.

Three-plus hours later, I nuked everything, and the most enticing aromas, exotic yet familiar, filled the kitchen. Tom and I easily split this one dish, with enough leftovers for a generous lunch the next day. It was so delicious, Tom wanted me to figure out how to make it so we could have it more often.

If you dine at Asmara, beverages available include fresh-squeezed lemonade, mango juice, soft drinks, African sweet tea, African coffee, homemade iced tea, beer, and a homemade honey wine. Another possibility is a traditional coffee for four, during which coffee beans are roasted at the table.

Dessert choices are few, but the ligamat—fried dough balls seasoned with salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, and oil, and served with a maple syrup dipping sauce—definitely caught my eye.  Next time—and there definitely will be a next time—I’ll dine in and end with that.

A spring hike into Poplar Stream Falls

Hilary Nangle
-
0
A spring hike into Poplar Stream Falls

April’s a great month to hike in Maine: No bugs, cooler weather, raging waterfalls, and few other folks along the trail. Today we hiked into Poplar Stream Falls, a relatively easy, roughly 5-mile round-trip from the Carrabassett Valley trailhead.

We parked in the Maine Huts & Trails parking lot (signed off Route 27), then began on the Maine Huts trail, but opted for the side loops, first along the stream and then to the falls. Yes, the trail’s wet and muddy in places, but nothing that forced us to stop; no long stretches or deep, wide puddles.

The reward? Poplar Stream Falls, site of actually two lovely torrents, and rated a 4.5 out of 5 by Greg Parsons and Kate Watson in New England Waterfalls. South Brook fall drops 24 feet; Poplar Stream Falls plunges a far more impressive 51 feet. A fallen tree, just out of the reach of Poplar Stream Falls’ spray, provided a perfect perch for scarfing down our picnic lunch.

Go in the off-season, and have the trail practically to yourselves. On a bluebird Saturday, we ran into only two other people, and both were on the Maine Huts trail, on which we closed the loop back to the parking lot.

 

Plan now to attend Maine’s spring birding festivals

Hilary Nangle
-
0
Plan now to attend Maine’s spring birding festivals

Both the Down East Spring Birding Festival and the Acadia Birding Festival are open for registrations. Maine’s location on the East Coast Flyway means it’s a stopover for feathered snowbirds winging their way northward after wintering in warmer climes, so it’s a great place and time to add a few species to your life list as well as enjoy the company of other birders.

Down East Birding Festival: Cobscook Bay Area

The American Bird Conservancy has identified Northeast coastal Maine and the waters around Machias Seal Island as “One of the important bird areas in the U.S.,” and Washington County has won the America’s Birdiest Atlantic Coastal County title annually since 2007. The three-day festival is jampacked with activities: walks, talks, demonstrations, presentations, social events, art programs, and more. A $60 fee covers almost everything, although you still have to register for individual events. Info on lodging and other local resources is on the site.

Acadia Birding Festival: Mount Desert Island area

Roger Tory Peterson called Mt. Desert Island the “warbler capital of the world,” and the Acadia festival provides opportunities to see and hear these songbirds as well as sight puffins and pelagic birds at sea and observe peregrin falcons at an active breeding site in Acadia National Park. The program includes lectures, walks, and adventures, all led by notable birders and others and designed to introduce participants to Downeast Maine’s many bird species, diverse habitats , and local birding experts. Keynote speaker Paul Kerlinger will address “Migratory Birds, Wind Turbines, and Communication Towers,” on Thursday evening. Most events require registration ($60/one day, $125/two days, $175/three days + individual fees for special activities), but a few are open to the public.

I’ve had the good fortune to go birding with Michael Good, depicted right, who runs this festival, and he’s a fabulous guide. He operates Down East Nature Tours, and if you can’t make it to the island for this festival, book an adventure with him when you can, even if birding sounds like the least fun activity in the world. Trust me, he makes it fun.

1...293031...40Page 30 of 40