It’s easy to find Barry Colpitts’s home gallery in East Ship Harbor, Nova Scotia. Folk art adorns the house, lawn, barn, shed, fence, car, and even the mailbox and truck. Hand-carved, two- and three-dimensional birds and fish, saints and sinners, mermaids and fishermen, augment every available surface. Works of art, all painted in bold colors using shiny boat paint, adorn shutters, trim, railings, and newel posts.
“Bright colors make me feel good. Nothing else looks right,” Colpitts says. Even on a dreary day, it’s a smile-producing sight.
Colpitts’ religious convictions are evident in his use of angels and crosses and his whimsical interpretation of the seven deadly sins: yelling all the time, wanting other people’s stuff, eating too frigging much, looking too hard at someone else’s wife.
Even the oxen on his small farm are blessed with yokes accented with religious icons. “They need all the help they can get,” he quips.
“Most of the stuff on the house is people I know,” Colpitts says, pointing out a neighbor girl, various relatives, and Uncle Bob. “Rub his head to help quit smoking,” Colpitts advises. And then he explains: “Uncle Bob was a heavy smoker, and his likeness had a cigarette dangling from his mouth. It broke off with an icicle—and Uncle Bob quit smoking at the same time.”
Colpitts is never short on ideas for creating new pieces for the house or to sell in his shop. “The longer I do it, the quicker they come, and the less good I am for anything else,” he says. “Folk art is like the loaves and fishes, it keeps coming and coming.”
Get your groove on at one of these eight Maine summer music festivals. We’ve gotcha covered, from rock to folk, bluegrass to blues, pops to out, and taking place in venues ranging from oceanfront to mountaintop, offshore island to city downtown.
The Saturday late afternoon concert featuring the Bangor Symphony Orchestra and guest artists caps two days of arts and entertainment that begins with an ArtWalk on Friday night and continues with an ArtsFestival, including displays and demonstrations on Saturday. The concert begins at 4:30and ends with fireworks
Some of the nation’s top blues performers come to Rockland for this two-day harborfront festival. Expect great music complemented by the usual array of food, drink, and craft vendors. Complementing the day-long concerts are a Saturday night pub crawl, open to attendees and featuring music by top blues musicians, as well as bands performing on the street.
Considered one of New England’s top family music festivals, this camping festival is just plain fun. Four days, four stages, 40 bands, including rock, jazz, bluegrass, Celtic, folk, as well as the New England Flatpickin’ Championship and the New England Songwriting Championship; whew! In addition, there are workshops for all ages, barn dances, jam sessions, fireside field picking and jamming, and a free children’s music program.
When: mid/late July
Where: Ossipee Valley Fairgrounds, South Hiram, Maine
Held every year since 1971, this family run festival lays claim to being the oldest music festival in Maine. It’s a low-key, inexpensive, family oriented day of great fiddle and bluegrass music from top Maine musicians. In addition to live concerts, there are a fiddler’s showcase, fiddle contests for adults and children, and field picking.
When: Always the last Sunday in July
Where: Littlefield Farm, East Benton
When: early August
Where: Swans Island, accessible via ferry from Bass Harbor, on Mount Desert Island (note: on-island lodging is very limited).
The largest Out Music festival in Maine (and perhaps far beyond), Frantasia is an exploration in sound, music, movement, and visual arts. If you’re scratching your head on that, organizer Fran Szostak (Fran-tasia, get it?) describes Out Music as that which falls outside the boundaries of the usual genres. Drop any preconceived ideas of what a particular genre should be or how a specific instrument should sound, and be prepared for anything.
When: Usually third weekend in August.
Where: Livermore Falls area
• American Folk Festival
This isn’t folk as in Peter, Paul, and Mary, but rather a celebration of the multicultural folk traditions found in America today. Performers share their music, dance, and storytelling traditions on four stages complemented by displays and demonstrations of traditional crafts, and much more.
Brought back by popular demand, this is one of the biggies on Maine’s extensive bluegrass festival scene. Expect top acts and a jam-packed weekend of bluegrass at this coastal Maine campground.
Looking for Maine-related books for your wish list and holiday giving? In addition to my Moon Maine, Moon Coastal Maine, and Moon Acadia National Park books, check out these titles that have crossed my desk. As always, I love it when you support your local, independent book store, but if you prefer to shop online, I’ve provided links that help support related causes or the authors.
Maine hiking guru Carey Kish wrote this four-season guide to 50 of Maine’s best coastal trails, from Kittery to Eastport. I like the At-A-Glance Trip Planner, which provides everything you need for a quick decision in an easy chart: location, difficulty, distance and elevation gain, estimate time, fee, good for kids, dogs allowed, public transit, XC skiing, snowshoeing, and highlights. That allows you to dial in on exactly what you want quickly, and then go the full-blown descriptions, which in addition to a map and basic details, also include fun Did You Know trivia and info on what’s nearby. Buy it from the AMC to help support its conservation efforts.
The Schoodic Section, the only mainland parcel of Acadia National Park, is getting increased attention, now that there’s an official park campground. Author Allen Workman digs into the point’s history, from the Wabanaki to the park’s creation. Full of intriguing characters and details, it’s a great read for anyone planning a trip to Schoodic. Buy it from The Archipelago, to help support Maine’s Island Institute.
Only a handful of Shakers still put hands to work and hearts to God in Maine’s Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community, the world’s last living community. From a peak of 6,000 Believers, now only three remain. In this wonderful little book, Flo Morse tells not only their story, but that of the entire religious movement, one grounded in religious, racial, and gender equality. Thank the Shakers for inventing or improving the clothespin, the circular saw, a threshing machine, an improved washing machine, among others. And of course, the simplicity of Shaker style is part of their legacy. Buy it from Maine’s Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community to help support it.
In winter, caretaker Alexandra de Steiguer has the Isles of Shoals to herself. In this coffee-table book, an ode to the pleasures of quiet and solitude, she shares her black-and-white images along with here experiences on this group of islands sited nine miles off the Maine/New Hampshire coast. Buy it from the author.
Grains as Mains: Modern Recipes Using Ancient Grains
Sarah W. Caron, of Sarah’s Cucina Bella and senior features editor for the Bangor Daily News, co-authored this wonderful collection of grain-based recipes with chef and food photographer Jodi Moreno, of What’s Cooking Good Looking. Gluten-free? Not a problem, alternatives are provided. This is an easy-to-use book, with clear instructions augmented with pictures along with a primer on basic techniques. Recipes cover everything from breakfast to dessert. What to try first? How about Sarah’s favorite: beef and bulgur wheat meatballs with creamy pesto sauce. Buy it through the author.
Next time you shop Freeport, including the L.L. Bean Mothership and the satellite national outlets, seek out the Maine-owned shops amidst them.
Unlike many outlet centers across the country, Freeport has an excellent mix of local Maine stores in addition to the big names. Sure, L.L. is the biggie, but you’ll find close to three-dozen stores with Maine roots. Here’s a sampling:
Maine’s Katahdin Woods and Waters and Moosehead Lake regions are two of the state’s greatest inland treasures. The former is home to Baxter State Park, crowned by Mount Katahdin, and the new Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument.
You can concentrate your time in one or the other, link the two via a gravel wilderness road, or explore each from a convenient base midway between them. For village comforts and convenience, opt for Dover-Foxcroft. For a wilderness escape, stay at a traditional Maine sporting camp on West Branch Pond. (Updated July 8, 2023)
Dover-Foxcroft
This up-and-coming pretty shire town is within an hour’s drive of both Greenville and Millinocket.
Roughly an hour northwest of Bangor, Dover-Foxcroft isn’t on the tourism radar screen, but the downtown The Mill at Dover Foxcroft, a boutique hotel, is a fine place to stay when exploring both regions. The masterfully renovated mill is situated by a waterfall. Upstairs are six spacious, industrial-chic rooms.
I never pass through this region without grabbing lunch at Stutzman’s Farm Stand & Bakery, a third-generation family-owned farm. Choose between the delicious, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet ($12, including pizzas, salad, soup, dessert, and nonalcoholic beverages) and daily specials; there’s often live entertainment, too.
Chase it with a homemade, rich, creamy, grin-producing ice cream from Butterfield’s. Trust me, they get it right, they’ve been making ice cream since 1950. You’ll find Butterfield’s just northwest of downtown Dover-Foxcroft.
For a quiet sporting camp-style stay, you can’t beat rustic West Branch Pond Camps. This traditional Maine sporting camp comprises a string of lakefront cabins with woodstoves and a main lodge, where meals are taken. It’s about 10 miles east of Kokadjo (pop: not many) off the Greenville/Millinocket Road.
This remote, off-the-grid slice of heaven is not a place for fussbudgets or for those who need a cell signal or Internet access. But for those who prefer a few creature comforts, it’s a fabulous find. The daily per-person rate includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, as well as the use of canoes, kayaks, and rowboats. If there’s a chill in the air, build a fire in the woodstove for warmth.
Infrastructure is minimal at one of America’s newest National Monuments, but you can hike, canoe, kayak, fish, camp, or simply watch birds and wildlife on this 87,500-acre chunk of wilderness.
The new “Tekαkαpimək” Visitor Center is expected to open in late 2023 or early 2024. The center honors Maine’s Wabanaki nations and takes its name from the Penobscot Indian language. It means “as far as one can see.”
If you prefer to stay on paved roads, the Katahdin Woods & Waters Maine Scenic Byway edges a section of the National Monument lands. Driving it is a fine way to get a taste of this gorgeous chunk of real estate. Lauding over the landscape is Katahdin, Maine’s highest mountain and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.
Getting close to Katahdin is just one of many reasons to visit Baxter State Park, a generous, fore-sighted gift to the people of Maine from former governor Percival Baxter.
Climbing Katahdin and crossing its famed Knife Edge, a 1.1-mile narrow granite spine connecting Baxter and Pamola Peaks, is best left to experienced hikers equipped for the rugged wilderness and the vagaries of weather. (Note: Baxter does not permit dogs, RVs exceeding 9H x 7W x 22L, motorcycles, motorbikes, or ATVs. And have a full tank of gas as there are no services in the park).
The West Branch of the Penobscot River, famed for whitewater rafting, flows near the park access road. Consider booking a trip with New England Whitewater Center; owner Matt Polstein is a huge promoter of the national monument. The center also offers canoeing, kayaking, lodging, and a restaurant. Ask about trips to the Ambejejus Boom House, which is accessible only by boat.
For a quick meal, pop into North Woods Trading Post. It’s the last place to stock up on anything and get Wi-fi before heading into Baxter State Park.
If you’re looking for a fancier place to stay in the area, check into the Five Lakes Lodge. This purpose-built cabin-style B&B occupies a spit of land reaching into South Twin Lake. Every room offers eye-candy views of Katahdin over the lakes. It’s the closest thing to luxury in the region. On most evenings, the owners take guests on a pontoon boat cruise for wildlife spotting. On my last visit, we saw eagles aplenty.
En Route
Treat yourself at Elaine’s Cafe & Bakery in Milo. This wonderful scratch-made bakery serves homemade doughnuts and pastries and awesome pies and pastries.
If the timing is right, while in Milo, you might also want to visit the Harrigan Museum. The archeological treasures collected by Tom and Nancy Harrigan are showcased in this purpose-built museum adjacent to the Three Rivers Kiwanis building.
Tom’s often on site when it’s open, and he’ll share his passions and tell you the stories behind his fascinating finds. This is far above the usual local historical society or amateur collector museum and is well worth a visit if you appreciate fossils, minerals, and Indian artifacts.
The Moosehead Lake region is one of my favorites. It offers just enough creature comforts to ease the immersion into the wilderness.
While in the Moosehead Lake area
Outdoor-oriented folks can easily spend a week or longer in this area, thanks to the abundant hiking, wildlife-watching, and paddling opportunities. The Chamber of Commerce, located at the top of the hill heading into town (look for the lookout tower), can provide you with info on appropriate hikes. Or plan in advance and book a hike, moose safari, or paddle with Northwoods Outfitters.
If you’re just here for a sightseeing day trip, plan to either take a cruise aboard The Kate, a retrofitted steamship dating from the lumberjack era; hop the Kineo shuttle across the lake from Rockwood to Kineo for a hike, look-about, or a round of golf; or take a scenic float-plane tour with Currier’s.
Want to call it a night in the region? If your wallet is fat, one of the finest inns in the state is the Blair Hill Inn, a magnificent Victorian mansion with beautifully updated guestrooms, panoramic views over Moosehead, a dining room, a lounge, and a spa. It’s a Relais and Chateaux member property with an excellent restaurant (make rez well in advance).
Far less fancy is the lakefront Chalet Moosehead, with a primo location.
En Route
Monson, once known for slate, is now an arts incubator with a handful of studios and galleries. Also here is the Appalachian Trail Visitor Center. Monson is the last place for hikers to rest and resupply before the final push through the 100-Mile-Wilderness to Katahdin.
The Monson General Store is a fine place to pick up prepared sandwiches and salads or order from the menu for freshly made fare. Or, if you have a hankering for barbecue, don’t miss Spring Creek in Monson. And if you’re staying in the area, make rez well in advance to dine at The Quarry, winner of the James Beard Foundation’s 2023 outstanding Hospitality Award.
Connect Katahdin Woods and Waters with Moosehead Lake via The Golden Road
If you have a reliable car with a good spare tire and a decent amount of clearance and aren’t squeamish about driving dirt roads in the wilderness, you can link Greenville, in the Moosehead Lake region, with Millinocket, in the Baxter and Katahdin Woods and Waters region, via the Greenville and Golden roads. The rugged but scenic 71-mile drive is an adventure that often rewards drivers with sightings of moose, bear, and other wildlife.
Be aware that this is a private road, and the logging trucks own the right of way. If you see one, pull way over and get out of its way. While the road is maintained, it can be very soft after a recent grading or very rutted. It’s wise to ask for road conditions and get clear directions before attempting it. And be sure to allow enough time to be off the wilderness sections and back on tar well before sunset. You won’t have a cell signal, so be sure to have water, food provisions, and a sweater or fleece with you.
The Chesuncook Boom House is just a mile or so off the Golden Road; turn at Allagash Lake Campground (a fine place to stay, with tenting and RV sites as well as cabins). The Boomhouse, actually a former boarding house, lets you immerse in the great logging era. If you’re lucky, curator Chuck Harris will be on site. You can tour through the house and the barn on your own; a $2pp donation is requested (give more, if you can, this is a special place).
With spring comes the realization that summer’s around the corner, and it’s time to get cracking on planning a family vacation. But where, you ask? I have a few suggestions. Let’s start with Attean Lake Lodge.
Attean delivers an island escape with contemporary conveniences and easy-on-the-eyes wilderness scenery. (updated April 6, 2019)
Spend a few days or a week at Attean Lake Lodge. @Hilary Nangle
All-inclusive island escape
Sited on a private island in mountain-cradled Attean Pond, nudged up toward the Canadian border west of Jackman, and founded in 1904, this main lodge and 14 one- to three-bedroom cabins is under third-generation ownership. Brad Holden, his wife, Andrea, their son, Barrett, and his wife, Josie, operate the lodge. Karl greets guests at the mainland boat landing (Be sure to ask Kearl about the Maine Guide medal around his neck and about the paint job on his truck).
Cabins are tucked in the pines along the shoreline. @Hilary Nangle
“We’re not a resort; we’re not a sporting camp,” Brad says. So, what is Attean? It’s an all-inclusive getaway on forested Birch Island.
Stay here and enjoy sporting amenities—boating (fee for motor boats), fishing, hiking, wildlife watching, sand-castle building; play games in the main lodge; or simply sitting on the porch gazing over the lake from your private cabin on the shoreline.
The cozy cabins at Attean Lake Lodge overlook the lake. @Hilary Nangle
Private cabins on the shoreline
Each pine-paneled cabin (all are either rebuilt or refurbished) is cozy and comfy and has a living room with a woodstove, bedroom(s), and a modern bathroom. All are illuminated with the soft glow of gas lanterns.
Settle onto your private porch to watch the sunset.
Inviting main lodge with dining room
Dine indoors or on the deck at Attean Lake Lodge, where accommodations come with breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. @Hilary Nangle
The main lodge invites rusticating with its classic style. With its cathedral ceiling and stone hearth, the pine-paneled great room oozes authenticity. Choose a book or a boardgame from the small library and relax.
Choice-of-menu hearty breakfasts and multi-course dinners are served in the dining room or on the deck. Choice-of-menu lunches, including a drink Thermos, are packed to go.
Barbeques, offered wice-weekly in summer, feature smoked ribs and chicken, along with the usual hamburgers, hot dogs, salads, and desserts. One certainly doesn’t go hungry here.
Attean Lake Lodge maintains a fleet of watercraft. You can motor or paddle to a remote hiking trail. @Hilary Nangle
Discover island pleasures and mountain treasures at Attean Lake Lodge
Nor does one lack things to do. Attean Lake Lodge amenities include:
a sand beach;
canoes, kayaks, paddleboats and rental motorboats for exploring—take your lunch, and find a remote beach for a picnic;
pontoon boats for tours;
and a smattering of trails edging the shore front and cutting across the island—with one seat perched just so on a huge glacial erratic at Lookout Point.
In addition, the Holdens also maintain 20 miles of hiking trails, some access remote ponds, where canoes are stashed, others ascend peaks and deliver panoramic views.
You also can cast a line for landlocked salmon or brookies.
The James Beard Awards have released the semi-finalists for the 2016 restaurant and chef awards, and once again, Maine is well represented. Here’s where you’ll want to make reservations and score a table now, before the from-away crowds return. And if you’re from away, visit now and also reap off-season rates.
Here are the 2016 James Beard Maine semi-finalists:
I frequently travel with my furry sidekick, Bernie, a 97-pound Leonberger. Both of us can vouch for these dog-friendly Maine accommodations that extend not only a welcoming paw, but also often a treat.
NOTE: All require proof of vaccinations, and most charge a fee to cover cleaning and extras (some by night, others by stay). Most provide poop bags, but it’s wise to bring a stash with you. None limit dogs by size.
PAW PRINT: Bernie crossed the Rainbow Bridge in July 2017. In 2019 Bo, our chocolate lab, has assumed review duties.
Dog-friendly inns are wonderful, but don’t abuse them: Do not bring your dog is he or she is aggressive, not friendly with other animals, not housebroken, or is an incessant barker; find a kennel, instead.
All I have to do is whisper the words Inn by the Sea and Bernie perks up. This upscale, boutique inn, bordering Crescent Beach, pampers dogs as well as their owner. Not only does it supply bed, bowls, and turn-down treat, it also offers a doggy dining menu (Bernie recommends the meat ruoff) and spa services.
We’ve stayed in the spa suites as well as one of the Beach House Suites (which have full kitchens).
While dogs are not permitted in the restaurant, they are allowed in the lounge and on the deck, and breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in those locations, too.
Dogs can walk on the beach in the off-season; in season, pad along the beach’s service road or over to nearby preserves for nice walks. The inn is about 15 minutes to downtown Portland, where there’s a good fenced-in dog park. While the inn isn’t exactly budget-friendly, especially in summer, winter rates are far lower and the annual spring Habitat for Humanity promotion is a win-win all around.
Rodger Dodger is the official spokesdog for the Harraseeket Inn, which is conveniently located within steps of L.L. Bean, Freeport’s gazillion outlets, and all the action downtown.
Rooms in the Carriage House and some two-bedroom townhouses are pet friendly. A portion of the nightly pet fee is donated to the Coastal Humane Society, another plus.
Bernie gives a high paw to the Carriage House, where his dog-friendly room included a wet bar and a fireplace—cozy for napping. Also provided were a dog bed, small can of food, clean-up bags, and bowls.
Another oceanfront gem, Sebasco is a 550-acre family pleaser, a full-service resort blending old fashioned charms with contemporary amenities. With two restaurants, an outdoor saltwater oceanfront pool, boat trips, a spa, recreation hall, and a nine-hole golf course, the resort’s appeal is broad.
Sebasco has three dog-friendly cottages. We stayed in Dogwood, which offered two bedrooms, bathroom, living room, and kitchenette; perfect for Bernie. The resort’s expansive grounds provide plentiful walking opportunities.
This is an especially wonderful family resort, so it’s wonderful that all members of the family are welcome.
I adore Castine, a serene New England seaside village with a rich history and outstanding architecture. Smack downtown is the lovely Pentagoet Inn, a butter-yellow, classic Queen Anne Victorian with a turret, wrap-around porch, and harbor views.
What most people don’t realize, is the inn also includes an adjoining 18th-century cottage, which offers pet-friendly rooms. All rooms are beautifully furnished with antiques, and a full breakfast is included (the inn is justly renowned for its dining room and its cozy pub).
While you can’t bring your pooch into the dining room, you can dine with him or or her on the porch. Castine’s quiet streets invite strolling, and the signs placed throughout town detailing the tumultuous past add interest. Or head over to Witherle Woods, a preserve, for walks in the woods.
Sited on the former 14-acre hillside estate of America’s Agatha Christie, Mary Reinhart Roberts (she’s credited with coining the phrase “The butler did it” and inspiring the character Batman), the Wonder View delivers on its name with panoramic views over Bar Harbor and out to the Porcupine Islands. It comprises four older motels on estate-like grounds with grassy lawns and mature shade trees, an outdoor pool, and a restaurant, with a pet-friendly deck.
Guest rooms vary widely, and rates reflect both the style of accommodation and views; all have a refrigerator, TV, Wi-Fi, and air-conditioning. Those in the upper buildings have the best views. Tea and coffee are always available in the lobby, where a continental buffet breakfast is spread in the morning (packaged muffins, bagels, bread, hard-boiled eggs, waffle-making station, etc.).
Dogs are welcomed with a letter penned by the inn’s non-resident mascot, a water bowl, disposal bags, a Bark Harbor treat, a listing of dog-friendly restaurants, and info on dog sitters, kennels, and recommendations for pet-friendly touring. Bernie would return again just for the large bone-shaped treat (we, of course, stopped in at Bark Harbor, downtown, too). We also appreciated being able to dine on the deck, enjoying the views.
Simple cabins smack on the shores of Big Lake make it easy for dogs to swim and play at the Flying Eagle Lodge (previously, The Lakeside Country Inn and Cabins; this review dates from The Lakeside). Although the rooms in the country inn aren’t pet friendly, those in the five one- and two-bedroom housekeeping cabins are. Guests have use of docks, canoes, and paddleboats at no charge. Motorboat rentals and licenses are available.
Bernie thought the firepit would be a great place to hang in the evening and toast marshmallows after a day at the nearby Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. Alas, after grooving to the music all day, he (we?) was (were) too exhausted to think about it.
With a name like Paws Inn, you know it’s going to be dog friendly. Carolyn Bailey and her canine sidekick outfit their canine guests with dog beds or crates, plentiful treats, and lots of love.
Dogs can play in the 2,000-square-foot fenced-in yard and barn areas. They also are allowed to remain in guest rooms unsupervised. Another plus: dog sitting is available.
Human guests enjoy a generous continental breakfast and access to a guest refrigerator stocked with juices and water.
Guest rooms are on the second floor, so this might not be the best choice for dogs that have problems with stairs. Rooms have air-conditioning and cable TV. The B&B, sited on a knoll, 2 miles south of downtown Bethel, is convenient to Sunday River and Mt. Abrams. No credit cards.
I love innkeeper Donna Pearce’s philosophy. “Dogs are welcome to stay free, as long as they can vouch for the behavior of their people.” Bernie gave us a good recommendation, so we checked in. What distinguishes this intown B&B is its expansive and plentiful public rooms. No matter how many dogs or humans are in residence, there’s always a place to find a private nook.
Choose from the well-stocked library, the parlor, the dining room, the humongous kitchen, or the truly great room, tricked out with a fireplace, 50-inch TV, and pool table nook (and a big wrap-around couch that’s perfect for cuddling with your pooch). There’s also a large three-season porch, as well as a back deck and spacious back and side yards.
The inn, by the way, is named for the famed Arctic explorer who briefly resided here.
Go home with a new pet from Maine’s Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth. It’s working with the Animal Rescue League of Portland to find furever homes for available dogs.
Well that didn’t take long! The first dog in the new foster-to-adoption program at the uber-dog-friendly Inn By the Sea, in Cape Elizabeth, came and left within 24 hours.
Mombo, a 2-year-old, mixed-breed (paperwork says German Shepherd, but it appears there was a bit of Bernese Mountain in the mix), found a new home just one day after arrival. It’s easy to see why; just look at this sweet dog in his snazzy Adopt Me vest.
Adopt Me at the Inn by the Sea
The Adopt Me program, offered in conjunction with the Animal Rescue League of Portland, seeks to find fur-ever homes for adoptable dogs. To do so, it places rescues in temporary residence at the inn.
As one inn employee said, the hardest part is the emotional roller coaster for the staff: meet, greet, fall in love, and say good-bye! Looks like the GM and the rest of the staff wish Mombo had taken a bit more time to place. But another rescue soon will be in residence at the Inn by the Sea.
Interested? Call the inn to see if there’s a rescue dog in residence. Then, head over for a visit—as short as a quick coffee or cocktail or as long as an overnight or two.
And if you already have a dog, remember this inn is one of the most dog friendly around.
I’m always on the lookout for inexpensive accommodations that I can recommend, especially along the Maine Coast and even more especially within easy reach of Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island. The number of visitors in this region far outpaces available rooms during peak season.
Last summer, I made numerous trips to Acadia researching the new edition of Moon Acadia National Park. Although many were day trips, often I had to find a bed, in the peak of summer, at the last minute. Thank goodness for the Trenton strip and its handful of well kept, vintage motels and tourist cottages just over the bridge from Mount Desert Island. I found an especially warm welcome at the Open Hearth Inn (one of my recommendations on my Acadia Cheap Sleeps pages). Not only did I find a warm welcome and a clean and comfy room, but also little extras, most notably warm-out-of-the-oven muffins in the morning.
Innkeepers Chuck and Susan Starr are hospitable and experienced, and the Open Hearth comprises bed-and-breakfast rooms, apartments, and a string of adorable cottages. In the mornings, lucky early birds can enjoy Sue’s warm muffins, a real treat. She usually puts out a couple of flavors, and it’s hard not to be greedy and grab one of each.
The Starrs, contemplating the gentler pace of running an inn as they eased into retirement, purchased the Open Hearth in 2004, despite never having stayed in a B&B. “Like many of our generation, we were charmed by The Bob Newhart Show,” she writes in the preface of her new cookbook, The Muffin Recipes Revealed: Memories of a Mad Innkeeper. Their experiences, however, did not replicate those of Bob and Johanna. The Open Hearth is a much larger and seasonal property, and the Starrs do it all themselves—no George; no Larry, Darryl and Darryl; no charming-but-ditzy Stephanie.
In her book, Sue shares not only many of the recipes that earned her fame and repeat guests over the years, but also dishes on the realities of being innkeepers, from plumbing woes to wedding whoopses. It’s light and fun, offering insights into the life of innkeepers, but what makes this little book special are the 42 recipes sprinkled between the essays. Here are two recipes that appear in the Autumn Comforts section:
Chocolate Hazelnut Muffins
makes one dozen muffins
6 tablespoons butter, melted
2/3 cup Nutella spread
1 3/4 cups flour
3/4 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts
Topping:
crystallized sugar
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line muffin cups with paper liners. Melt butter with Nutella over low heat. Mix until smooth and allow to cool 10 minutes. Mix dry ingredients and liquid ingredients separately. Combine to make batter and blend in melted butter and Nutella mixture. Gently add hazelnuts and fill muffin cups. Sprinkle with crystallized sugar. Bake 20-24 minutes.
**
And this one is an especially good choice for the holiday season:
Rockin’ Rum Egg Noggin Muffins
makes one dozen muffins
2 cups flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup eggnog
1/4 cup Captain Morgan’s Spiced Rum
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
6 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Topping:
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line muffin cups with paper liners. Mix dry ingredients and liquid ingredients separately. Combine to make batter and blend in melted butter. Gently fold in raisins and walnuts. Fill muffin cups and sprinkle with combined topping ingredients. Bake 18-22 minutes.
Considered one of New England’s top family music festivals, this camping festival is just plain fun. Four days, four stages, 40 bands, including rock, jazz, bluegrass, Celtic, folk, as well as the New England Flatpickin’ Championship and the New England Songwriting Championship; whew! In addition, there are workshops for all ages, barn dances, jam sessions, fireside field picking and jamming, and a free children’s music program.
