Maine Travel Maven

Explore Maine’s Katahdin Woods & Waters and Moosehead regions

Hilary Nangle

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September 8, 2016

Explore Maine’s Katahdin Woods & Waters and Moosehead regions

Mount Katahdin, Maine img_1086 — The Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument takes its name from the iconic peak. ©Hilary Nangle

Maine’s Katahdin Woods and Waters and Moosehead Lake regions are two of the state’s greatest inland treasures. The former is home to Baxter State Park, crowned by Mount Katahdin, and the new Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument.

You can concentrate your time in one or the other, link the two via a gravel wilderness road, or explore each from a convenient base midway between them. For village comforts and convenience, opt for Dover-Foxcroft. For a wilderness escape, stay at a traditional Maine sporting camp on West Branch Pond. (Updated July 8, 2023)

Dover-Foxcroft

This up-and-coming pretty shire town is within an hour’s drive of both Greenville and Millinocket.

Roughly an hour northwest of Bangor, Dover-Foxcroft isn’t on the tourism radar screen, but the downtown The Mill at Dover Foxcroft, a boutique hotel, is a fine place to stay when exploring both regions. The masterfully renovated mill is situated by a waterfall. Upstairs are six spacious, industrial-chic rooms.

Stutzman's Farm pizza buffet — For delicious farm-raised and prepared fare, don’t miss Stutzman’s in Dover-Foxcroft. ©Hilary Nangle

I never pass through this region without grabbing lunch at Stutzman’s Farm Stand & Bakery, a third-generation family-owned farm. Choose between the delicious, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet ($12, including pizzas, salad, soup, dessert, and nonalcoholic beverages) and daily specials; there’s often live entertainment, too.

Chase it with a homemade, rich, creamy, grin-producing ice cream from Butterfield’s. Trust me, they get it right, they’ve been making ice cream since 1950. You’ll find Butterfield’s just northwest of downtown Dover-Foxcroft.

West Branch Pond

For a quiet sporting camp-style stay, you can’t beat rustic West Branch Pond Camps. This traditional Maine sporting camp comprises a string of lakefront cabins with woodstoves and a main lodge, where meals are taken. It’s about 10 miles east of Kokadjo (pop: not many) off the Greenville/Millinocket Road.

This remote, off-the-grid slice of heaven is not a place for fussbudgets or for those who need a cell signal or Internet access. But for those who prefer a few creature comforts, it’s a fabulous find. The daily per-person rate includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, as well as the use of canoes, kayaks, and rowboats. If there’s a chill in the air, build a fire in the woodstove for warmth.

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument

Infrastructure is minimal at one of America’s newest National Monuments, but you can hike, canoe, kayak, fish, camp, or simply watch birds and wildlife on this 87,500-acre chunk of wilderness.

The new “Tekαkαpimək” Visitor Center is expected to open in late 2023 or early 2024. The center honors Maine’s Wabanaki nations and takes its name from the Penobscot Indian language. It means “as far as one can see.”

If you prefer to stay on paved roads, the Katahdin Woods & Waters Maine Scenic Byway edges a section of the National Monument lands. Driving it is a fine way to get a taste of this gorgeous chunk of real estate. Lauding over the landscape is Katahdin, Maine’s highest mountain and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.

Mount Katahdin as viewed from a boat. img_1070 — Enjoying Katahdin Woods and Waters means hiking, mountain biking, and boating. ©Hilary Nangle

While in the Katahdin Woods and Waters Region

Getting close to Katahdin is just one of many reasons to visit Baxter State Park, a generous, fore-sighted gift to the people of Maine from former governor Percival Baxter.

Climbing Katahdin and crossing its famed Knife Edge, a 1.1-mile narrow granite spine connecting Baxter and Pamola Peaks, is best left to experienced hikers equipped for the rugged wilderness and the vagaries of weather. (Note: Baxter does not permit dogs, RVs exceeding 9H x 7W x 22L, motorcycles, motorbikes, or ATVs. And have a full tank of gas as there are no services in the park).

The West Branch of the Penobscot River, famed for whitewater rafting, flows near the park access road. Consider booking a trip with New England Whitewater Center; owner Matt Polstein is a huge promoter of the national monument. The center also offers canoeing, kayaking, lodging, and a restaurant. Ask about trips to the Ambejejus Boom House, which is accessible only by boat.

For a quick meal, pop into North Woods Trading Post. It’s the last place to stock up on anything and get Wi-fi before heading into Baxter State Park.

Five Lakes Lodge and Mount Katahdin. img_0832 — The Five Lakes Lodge occupies a spit of land offering in-your-face views of Katahdin. ©Hilary Nangle

If you’re looking for a fancier place to stay in the area, check into the Five Lakes Lodge. This purpose-built cabin-style B&B occupies a spit of land reaching into South Twin Lake. Every room offers eye-candy views of Katahdin over the lakes. It’s the closest thing to luxury in the region. On most evenings, the owners take guests on a pontoon boat cruise for wildlife spotting. On my last visit, we saw eagles aplenty.

En Route

Treat yourself at Elaine’s Cafe & Bakery in Milo. This wonderful scratch-made bakery serves homemade doughnuts and pastries and awesome pies and pastries.

Harrigan Museum, Milo img_8396 — Ask Tom Harrigan to show you some of his treasures at the Harrigan Museum in Milo. ©Hilary Nangle

If the timing is right, while in Milo, you might also want to visit the Harrigan Museum. The archeological treasures collected by Tom and Nancy Harrigan are showcased in this purpose-built museum adjacent to the Three Rivers Kiwanis building.

Tom’s often on site when it’s open, and he’ll share his passions and tell you the stories behind his fascinating finds. This is far above the usual local historical society or amateur collector museum and is well worth a visit if you appreciate fossils, minerals, and Indian artifacts.

Moosehead Lake

The Moosehead Lake region is one of my favorites. It offers just enough creature comforts to ease the immersion into the wilderness.

While in the Moosehead Lake area

Outdoor-oriented folks can easily spend a week or longer in this area, thanks to the abundant hiking, wildlife-watching, and paddling opportunities. The Chamber of Commerce, located at the top of the hill heading into town (look for the lookout tower), can provide you with info on appropriate hikes. Or plan in advance and book a hike, moose safari, or paddle with Northwoods Outfitters.

If you’re just here for a sightseeing day trip, plan to either take a cruise aboard The Kate, a retrofitted steamship dating from the lumberjack era; hop the Kineo shuttle across the lake from Rockwood to Kineo for a hike, look-about, or a round of golf; or take a scenic float-plane tour with Currier’s.

Want to call it a night in the region? If your wallet is fat, one of the finest inns in the state is the Blair Hill Inn, a magnificent Victorian mansion with beautifully updated guestrooms, panoramic views over Moosehead, a dining room, a lounge, and a spa. It’s a Relais and Chateaux member property with an excellent restaurant (make rez well in advance).

Far less fancy is the lakefront Chalet Moosehead, with a primo location.

En Route

Monson, once known for slate, is now an arts incubator with a handful of studios and galleries. Also here is the Appalachian Trail Visitor Center. Monson is the last place for hikers to rest and resupply before the final push through the 100-Mile-Wilderness to Katahdin.

The Monson General Store is a fine place to pick up prepared sandwiches and salads or order from the menu for freshly made fare. Or, if you have a hankering for barbecue, don’t miss Spring Creek in Monson. And if you’re staying in the area, make rez well in advance to dine at The Quarry, winner of the James Beard Foundation’s 2023 outstanding Hospitality Award.

Connect Katahdin Woods and Waters with Moosehead Lake via The Golden Road

If you have a reliable car with a good spare tire and a decent amount of clearance and aren’t squeamish about driving dirt roads in the wilderness, you can link Greenville, in the Moosehead Lake region, with Millinocket, in the Baxter and Katahdin Woods and Waters region, via the Greenville and Golden roads. The rugged but scenic 71-mile drive is an adventure that often rewards drivers with sightings of moose, bear, and other wildlife.

Be aware that this is a private road, and the logging trucks own the right of way. If you see one, pull way over and get out of its way. While the road is maintained, it can be very soft after a recent grading or very rutted. It’s wise to ask for road conditions and get clear directions before attempting it. And be sure to allow enough time to be off the wilderness sections and back on tar well before sunset. You won’t have a cell signal, so be sure to have water, food provisions, and a sweater or fleece with you.

En Route

The Chesuncook Boom House is just a mile or so off the Golden Road; turn at Allagash Lake Campground (a fine place to stay, with tenting and RV sites as well as cabins). The Boomhouse, actually a former boarding house, lets you immerse in the great logging era. If you’re lucky, curator Chuck Harris will be on site. You can tour through the house and the barn on your own; a $2pp donation is requested (give more, if you can, this is a special place).

Escape to Maine’s Attean Lake Lodge

Hilary Nangle

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August 10, 2016

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With spring comes the realization that summer’s around the corner, and it’s time to get cracking on planning a family vacation. But where, you ask? I have a few suggestions. Let’s start with Attean Lake Lodge.

Attean delivers an island escape with contemporary conveniences and easy-on-the-eyes wilderness scenery. (updated April 6, 2019)

Spend a few days or a week at Attean Lake Lodge. @Hilary Nangle

All-inclusive island escape

Sited on a private island in mountain-cradled Attean Pond, nudged up toward the Canadian border west of Jackman, and founded in 1904, this main lodge and 14 one- to three-bedroom cabins is under third-generation ownership. Brad Holden, his wife, Andrea, their son, Barrett, and his wife, Josie, operate the lodge. Karl greets guests at the mainland boat landing (Be sure to ask Kearl about the Maine Guide medal around his neck and about the paint job on his truck).

IMG_7958 Private Maine cabin on a lake. — Cabins are tucked in the pines along the shoreline. @Hilary Nangle

“We’re not a resort; we’re not a sporting camp,” Brad says. So, what is Attean? It’s an all-inclusive getaway on forested Birch Island.

Stay here and enjoy sporting amenities—boating (fee for motor boats), fishing, hiking, wildlife watching, sand-castle building; play games in the main lodge; or simply sitting on the porch gazing over the lake from your private cabin on the shoreline.

Attean Lake Lodge is an island getaway in Maine. IMG_8148 — The cozy cabins at Attean Lake Lodge overlook the lake. @Hilary Nangle

Private cabins on the shoreline

Each pine-paneled cabin (all are either rebuilt or refurbished) is cozy and comfy and has a living room with a woodstove, bedroom(s), and a modern bathroom. All are illuminated with the soft glow of gas lanterns.

Settle onto your private porch to watch the sunset.

Inviting main lodge with dining room

Savor sunset views along with dinner at Attean Lake Lodge. — Dine indoors or on the deck at Attean Lake Lodge, where accommodations come with breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. @Hilary Nangle

The main lodge invites rusticating with its classic style. With its cathedral ceiling and stone hearth, the pine-paneled great room oozes authenticity. Choose a book or a boardgame from the small library and relax.

Choice-of-menu hearty breakfasts and multi-course dinners are served in the dining room or on the deck. Choice-of-menu lunches, including a drink Thermos, are packed to go.

Barbeques, offered wice-weekly in summer, feature smoked ribs and chicken, along with the usual hamburgers, hot dogs, salads, and desserts. One certainly doesn’t go hungry here.

Jackman, Maine, lodging — Attean Lake Lodge maintains a fleet of watercraft. You can motor or paddle to a remote hiking trail. @Hilary Nangle

Discover island pleasures and mountain treasures at Attean Lake Lodge

Nor does one lack things to do. Attean Lake Lodge amenities include:

a sand beach;
canoes, kayaks, paddleboats and rental motorboats for exploring—take your lunch, and find a remote beach for a picnic;
pontoon boats for tours;
and a smattering of trails edging the shore front and cutting across the island—with one seat perched just so on a huge glacial erratic at Lookout Point.

In addition, the Holdens also maintain 20 miles of hiking trails, some access remote ponds, where canoes are stashed, others ascend peaks and deliver panoramic views.

You also can cast a line for landlocked salmon or brookies.

IMG_8166 Play cards, board games, or read in the main lodge at Attean Lake Lodge — With its pine paneled walls and stone hearth, Attean’s main lodge oozes classic lodge style while offering contemporary amenities, such as wifi. ©Hilary Nangle

Or simply settle onto the porch with a good book and while away the afternoon.

If you must, there’s Wifi in the main lodge, but really, just unplug and turn it all off to really experience this little slice of heaven.

Good to know: Kota, the resident malamute, may accept the presence of other well behaved dogs in June and September.

IMG_8200 Attean Lake Lodge Maine — Sunsets can be equally magical and mesmerizing at Attean Lake Lodge. @Hilary Nangle

Kudos to Maine’s 2016 James Beard Award semi-finalists

Hilary Nangle

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February 17, 2016

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The James Beard Awards have released the semi-finalists for the 2016 restaurant and chef awards, and once again, Maine is well represented. Here’s where you’ll want to make reservations and score a table now, before the from-away crowds return. And if you’re from away, visit now and also reap off-season rates.

Here are the 2016 James Beard Maine semi-finalists:

Best New Restaurant: The Honey Paw , Portland

Outstanding Restaurant: Fore Street, Portland

Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional: Rod Tod, Allagash Brewing Company

Rising Star Chef: Cara Stadler, Tao Yuan Restaurant, Brunswick

Best Chef Northeast: Keiko Suzuki Steinberger, of Suzuki’ s sushi bar, Rockland: Erin French of The Lost Kitchen, Freedom; Brian Hill of Francine Bistro, Camden; and Mike Wiley and Andrew Taylor, of Eventide Oyster Co., Portland.

Dog-friendly accommodations in Maine

Hilary Nangle

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May 30, 2015

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I frequently travel with my furry sidekick, Bernie, a 97-pound Leonberger. Both of us can vouch for these dog-friendly Maine accommodations that extend not only a welcoming paw, but also often a treat.

NOTE: All require proof of vaccinations, and most charge a fee to cover cleaning and extras (some by night, others by stay). Most provide poop bags, but it’s wise to bring a stash with you. None limit dogs by size.

PAW PRINT: Bernie crossed the Rainbow Bridge in July 2017. In 2019 Bo, our chocolate lab, has assumed review duties.

Dog-friendly inns are wonderful, but don’t abuse them: Do not bring your dog is he or she is aggressive, not friendly with other animals, not housebroken, or is an incessant barker; find a kennel, instead.

Last updated May 30, 2022.

NOTE: Here are more dog-friendly accommodations

Bernie on the steps of the Inn by the sea — The Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth is an especially dog-friendly property. It even has a menu for dogs: Bernie loved the meat ruoff. ©Hilary Nangle

Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth

dog-friendly reception — Bernie checks into the Inn by the Sea. ©Hilary Nangle

All I have to do is whisper the words Inn by the Sea and Bernie perks up. This upscale, boutique inn, bordering Crescent Beach, pampers dogs as well as their owner. Not only does it supply bed, bowls, and turn-down treat, it also offers a doggy dining menu (Bernie recommends the meat ruoff) and spa services.

We’ve stayed in the spa suites as well as one of the Beach House Suites (which have full kitchens).

While dogs are not permitted in the restaurant, they are allowed in the lounge and on the deck, and breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in those locations, too.

Dogs can walk on the beach in the off-season; in season, pad along the beach’s service road or over to nearby preserves for nice walks. The inn is about 15 minutes to downtown Portland, where there’s a good fenced-in dog park. While the inn isn’t exactly budget-friendly, especially in summer, winter rates are far lower and the annual spring Habitat for Humanity promotion is a win-win all around.

Here’s a recent review of the Inn by the Sea’s annual Pool Pawty.

Harraseeket Inn, Freeport

Freeport's Harraseeket Inn has dog-friendly accommodations. ©Hilary Nangle — Bernie recommends the dog-friendly rooms at the Harraseeket Inn. ©Hilary Nangle.

Rodger Dodger is the official spokesdog for the Harraseeket Inn, which is conveniently located within steps of L.L. Bean, Freeport’s gazillion outlets, and all the action downtown.

Rooms in the Carriage House and some two-bedroom townhouses are pet friendly. A portion of the nightly pet fee is donated to the Coastal Humane Society, another plus.

Bernie gives a high paw to the Carriage House, where his dog-friendly room included a wet bar and a fireplace—cozy for napping. Also provided were a dog bed, small can of food, clean-up bags, and bowls.

Sebasco Harbor Resort, Phippsburg

Bernie on the porch of the dog-friendly Dog Wood cottage at Sebsasco Harbor Resort, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Another oceanfront gem, Sebasco is a 550-acre family pleaser, a full-service resort blending old fashioned charms with contemporary amenities. With two restaurants, an outdoor saltwater oceanfront pool, boat trips, a spa, recreation hall, and a nine-hole golf course, the resort’s appeal is broad.

Sebasco has three dog-friendly cottages. We stayed in Dogwood, which offered two bedrooms, bathroom, living room, and kitchenette; perfect for Bernie. The resort’s expansive grounds provide plentiful walking opportunities.

This is an especially wonderful family resort, so it’s wonderful that all members of the family are welcome.

Pentagoet Inn, Castine

The cottage adjacent to the Pengtagoet provides dog-friendly B&B rooms in downtown Castine. ©Tom Nangle

I adore Castine, a serene New England seaside village with a rich history and outstanding architecture. Smack downtown is the lovely Pentagoet Inn, a butter-yellow, classic Queen Anne Victorian with a turret, wrap-around porch, and harbor views.

What most people don’t realize, is the inn also includes an adjoining 18th-century cottage, which offers pet-friendly rooms. All rooms are beautifully furnished with antiques, and a full breakfast is included (the inn is justly renowned for its dining room and its cozy pub).

While you can’t bring your pooch into the dining room, you can dine with him or or her on the porch. Castine’s quiet streets invite strolling, and the signs placed throughout town detailing the tumultuous past add interest. Or head over to Witherle Woods, a preserve, for walks in the woods.

The Wonder View Inn & Suites, Bar Harbor

The Wonderview hotel looks out over Frenchman Bay — View from our room at The Wonder View in Bar Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

Sited on the former 14-acre hillside estate of America’s Agatha Christie, Mary Reinhart Roberts (she’s credited with coining the phrase “The butler did it” and inspiring the character Batman), the Wonder View delivers on its name with panoramic views over Bar Harbor and out to the Porcupine Islands. It comprises four older motels on estate-like grounds with grassy lawns and mature shade trees, an outdoor pool, and a restaurant, with a pet-friendly deck.

Guest rooms vary widely, and rates reflect both the style of accommodation and views; all have a refrigerator, TV, Wi-Fi, and air-conditioning. Those in the upper buildings have the best views. Tea and coffee are always available in the lobby, where a continental buffet breakfast is spread in the morning (packaged muffins, bagels, bread, hard-boiled eggs, waffle-making station, etc.).

Dogs are welcomed with a letter penned by the inn’s non-resident mascot, a water bowl, disposal bags, a Bark Harbor treat, a listing of dog-friendly restaurants, and info on dog sitters, kennels, and recommendations for pet-friendly touring. Bernie would return again just for the large bone-shaped treat (we, of course, stopped in at Bark Harbor, downtown, too). We also appreciated being able to dine on the deck, enjoying the views.

Flying Eagle Lodge, Princeton

The cabins at The Lakeside in Princeton are dog friendly. ©Hilary Nangle — The waterfront cabins at The Lakeside make it easy to jump in for a swim. ©Hilary Nangle

Simple cabins smack on the shores of Big Lake make it easy for dogs to swim and play at the Flying Eagle Lodge (previously, The Lakeside Country Inn and Cabins; this review dates from The Lakeside). Although the rooms in the country inn aren’t pet friendly, those in the five one- and two-bedroom housekeeping cabins are. Guests have use of docks, canoes, and paddleboats at no charge. Motorboat rentals and licenses are available.

Bernie thought the firepit would be a great place to hang in the evening and toast marshmallows after a day at the nearby Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. Alas, after grooving to the music all day, he (we?) was (were) too exhausted to think about it.

Bernie gets comfy with a provided bed at the Paws Inn in Bethel, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Paws Inn, Bethel

With a name like Paws Inn, you know it’s going to be dog friendly. Carolyn Bailey and her canine sidekick outfit their canine guests with dog beds or crates, plentiful treats, and lots of love.

Dogs can play in the 2,000-square-foot fenced-in yard and barn areas. They also are allowed to remain in guest rooms unsupervised. Another plus: dog sitting is available.

Human guests enjoy a generous continental breakfast and access to a guest refrigerator stocked with juices and water.

Guest rooms are on the second floor, so this might not be the best choice for dogs that have problems with stairs. Rooms have air-conditioning and cable TV. The B&B, sited on a knoll, 2 miles south of downtown Bethel, is convenient to Sunday River and Mt. Abrams. No credit cards.

Dog-friendly Admiral Peary House — The Admiral Peary Inn, in Fryeburg, Maine, extends a welcoming paw to dogs. ©Hilary Nangle

Admiral Peary Inn Bed and Breakfast, Fryeburg

I love innkeeper Donna Pearce’s philosophy. “Dogs are welcome to stay free, as long as they can vouch for the behavior of their people.” Bernie gave us a good recommendation, so we checked in. What distinguishes this intown B&B is its expansive and plentiful public rooms. No matter how many dogs or humans are in residence, there’s always a place to find a private nook.

Choose from the well-stocked library, the parlor, the dining room, the humongous kitchen, or the truly great room, tricked out with a fireplace, 50-inch TV, and pool table nook (and a big wrap-around couch that’s perfect for cuddling with your pooch). There’s also a large three-season porch, as well as a back deck and spacious back and side yards.

The inn, by the way, is named for the famed Arctic explorer who briefly resided here.

Cape Elizabeth’s Inn by the Sea successfully launches homeless dog adoption program

Hilary Nangle

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May 10, 2015

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Cape Elizabeth’s Inn by the Sea successfully launches homeless dog adoption program

Mombo's first day at the Inn by the Sea — Go home with a new pet from Maine’s Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth. It’s working with the Animal Rescue League of Portland to find furever homes for available dogs.

Well that didn’t take long! The first dog in the new foster-to-adoption program at the uber-dog-friendly Inn By the Sea, in Cape Elizabeth, came and left within 24 hours.

Mombo, a 2-year-old, mixed-breed (paperwork says German Shepherd, but it appears there was a bit of Bernese Mountain in the mix), found a new home just one day after arrival. It’s easy to see why; just look at this sweet dog in his snazzy Adopt Me vest.

Adopt Me at the Inn by the Sea

The Adopt Me program, offered in conjunction with the Animal Rescue League of Portland, seeks to find fur-ever homes for adoptable dogs. To do so, it places rescues in temporary residence at the inn.

As one inn employee said, the hardest part is the emotional roller coaster for the staff: meet, greet, fall in love, and say good-bye! Looks like the GM and the rest of the staff wish Mombo had taken a bit more time to place. But another rescue soon will be in residence at the Inn by the Sea.

Interested? Call the inn to see if there’s a rescue dog in residence. Then, head over for a visit—as short as a quick coffee or cocktail or as long as an overnight or two.

And if you already have a dog, remember this inn is one of the most dog friendly around.

Mombo is welcomed by staff at IBTS — Mombo is welcomed by staff at the Inn by the Sea

The Muffin Recipes Revealed: A Maine innkeeper tells all and shares recipes

Hilary Nangle

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December 6, 2014

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The Muffin Recipes Revealed: A Maine innkeeper tells all and shares recipes

I’m always on the lookout for inexpensive accommodations that I can recommend, especially along the Maine Coast and even more especially within easy reach of Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island. The number of visitors in this region far outpaces available rooms during peak season.

Last summer, I made numerous trips to Acadia researching the new edition of Moon Acadia National Park. Although many were day trips, often I had to find a bed, in the peak of summer, at the last minute. Thank goodness for the Trenton strip and its handful of well kept, vintage motels and tourist cottages just over the bridge from Mount Desert Island. I found an especially warm welcome at the Open Hearth Inn (one of my recommendations on my Acadia Cheap Sleeps pages). Not only did I find a warm welcome and a clean and comfy room, but also little extras, most notably warm-out-of-the-oven muffins in the morning.

Innkeepers Chuck and Susan Starr are hospitable and experienced, and the Open Hearth comprises bed-and-breakfast rooms, apartments, and a string of adorable cottages. In the mornings, lucky early birds can enjoy Sue’s warm muffins, a real treat. She usually puts out a couple of flavors, and it’s hard not to be greedy and grab one of each.

The Starrs, contemplating the gentler pace of running an inn as they eased into retirement, purchased the Open Hearth in 2004, despite never having stayed in a B&B. “Like many of our generation, we were charmed by The Bob Newhart Show,” she writes in the preface of her new cookbook, The Muffin Recipes Revealed: Memories of a Mad Innkeeper. Their experiences, however, did not replicate those of Bob and Johanna. The Open Hearth is a much larger and seasonal property, and the Starrs do it all themselves—no George; no Larry, Darryl and Darryl; no charming-but-ditzy Stephanie.

In her book, Sue shares not only many of the recipes that earned her fame and repeat guests over the years, but also dishes on the realities of being innkeepers, from plumbing woes to wedding whoopses. It’s light and fun, offering insights into the life of innkeepers, but what makes this little book special are the 42 recipes sprinkled between the essays. Here are two recipes that appear in the Autumn Comforts section:

Chocolate Hazelnut Muffins

makes one dozen muffins

6 tablespoons butter, melted

2/3 cup Nutella spread

1 3/4 cups flour

3/4 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup cocoa powder

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup milk

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts

Topping:

crystallized sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line muffin cups with paper liners. Melt butter with Nutella over low heat. Mix until smooth and allow to cool 10 minutes. Mix dry ingredients and liquid ingredients separately. Combine to make batter and blend in melted butter and Nutella mixture. Gently add hazelnuts and fill muffin cups. Sprinkle with crystallized sugar. Bake 20-24 minutes.

**

And this one is an especially good choice for the holiday season:

Rockin’ Rum Egg Noggin Muffins

makes one dozen muffins

2 cups flour

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup eggnog

1/4 cup Captain Morgan’s Spiced Rum

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 tablespoons butter, melted

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Topping:

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line muffin cups with paper liners. Mix dry ingredients and liquid ingredients separately. Combine to make batter and blend in melted butter. Gently fold in raisins and walnuts. Fill muffin cups and sprinkle with combined topping ingredients. Bake 18-22 minutes.

Popovers, lobster, and pie on Acadia’s Quiet Side

Hilary Nangle

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August 17, 2014

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Popovers, lobster, and pie on Acadia’s Quiet Side

Frances' sky-high bluebery pie at the Quiet Side Cafe in SW HArbor, MAine. Hilary NAngle photo.IMG_2925 — Frances’ sky-high bluebery pie at the Quiet Side Cafe. ©Hilary Nangle

The majority of visitors to Mount Desert Island say on the west side, congregating in Bar Harbor and the sights along the Park Loop road. If you want to escape, mosey over to the west side, a.k.a. the Quiet Side. Southwest Harbor is the hub, but even when it’s busy, it’s far less so than Bar Harbor. Loop through Manset and the Seawall section of the park, nip into Bass Harbor, Tremont, and Bernard, and you’ll find be rewarded, especially if you’re hungry (There’s great hiking on this side, too). Here are a few places to nibble and sip.

Popovers!

Breakfast at the Common Good Cafe, in the post office block in downtown Southwest Harbor, is a meal that not only tastes good, but one you can feel good about. During the summer season,the cafe offers a self-serve, by-donation, all-you-can-eat buffet of hot popovers, slow-simmered steel-cut oatmeal, teak, coffee, and accompaniments, including maple syrup and house-made plain and flavored (maple walnut, cinnamon) butters and jam. It may not have the history of the Jordan Pond House, but the popovers are truly delicious, and the butters, well, I’m still licking my lips at the memory.

The volunteer-run program is a fund-raiser by The Common Good Soup Kitchen Community, which distributes free soup to shut-ins, offers a winter community meal,and stocks a winter community clothing program, among other things. Be as generous as you can in your donation; remember just one popover with tea is about $11 at the Jordan Pond House, here you can eat as many as you like. That said, no one monitors it, and if you’re on a tight budget, just give what you can. Every penny is appreciated. You might also consider picking up a package of the popover mix.

Lobster!

Beal’s Lobster Pier is getting some fancy! Not only has it renovated its dining area, it also hired Chef John Wight (previously with the Jordan Pond House) to upgrade and expand its menu. Of course, the lobsters are all from boats that unload right at the pier but Wight is emphasizing fresh and local, including Maine-raised beef and locally grown veggies. Wight promises plenty of gluten-free options.

The view from the new indoor/outdoor bar/lounge at Thurston's Lobster Pound in Bernard. Hilary Nangle photo. IMG_2999 — The view from the indoor/outdoor bar/lounge at Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard. ©Hilary Nangle

If Beal’s is getting fancy, wait until you see Thurston’s Lobster Pound. I’ve long favored Thurston’s thanks to its dreamy views over Bass Harbor. Always a few steps above bare-bones shack, thanks to its covered and screened seating area, now it’s gone downright upscale with the addition of an adjacent, deck-connected indoor/outdoor bar/lounge complete with marble bar and massive hearth. Love it!

Even more low key is Charlotte’s Legendary Lobster Pound an order-at-the-window joint that gets raves for its lobster rolls and lobster. No view, only a few picnic tables, but you can always take it to go and head for Acadia’s Seawall Picnic Area.

Pie!

Frances, with a slice of her to-die-for key lime pie at Quiet Side Cafe, Southwest Harbor. Hilary Nangle photo. IMG_2927 — Frances with a slice of key lime pie at theQuiet Side Cafe, Southwest Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

My between meals research is fueled by sweets. Truth-to-tell, I don’t know how I went so many years without knowing about these two sweet finds. While I’ve long known about the Quietside Cafe, I didn’t know about Frances’ to-die-for key lime and mile-high blueberry pies. These alone are worth a trip to this side of the island.

Seal Cove Farm’s pizzas (and goat cheese gelato) are worth the detour.

Hilary Nangle

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July 13, 2014

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Seal Cove Farm’s pizzas (and goat cheese gelato) are worth the detour.

Every now and then I stumble into a Eureka! find, and Seal Cove Farm‘s pizza is one.

This summer, Seal Cove—best known for its handcrafted, artisan cheeses, especially goat—debuted its new, outdoor, wood-burning pizza oven. Finding it requires noodling the backroads of Lamoine, the rural peninsula-tipping town framed by the Mount Desert Narrows, the Skillings River, and the western shores of Frenchman Bay. It’s worth it.

We arrived to find the new stone oven and seasonal kitchen building next to the small farm store. Graham, the pizza maker, was offering samples under a tent, and Lynn was running the store. While we were there Barbara, the farmer, stopped by, too.

Although the menu listed just four pizzas, the possibilities were limited only by the farm-fresh ingredients, produce/cheeses/and goateroni available and one’s imagination. A 10-inch pizza is $10.

We tasted two: the caramelized onion, roasted garlic, fresh chevre, and basil, followed by the kale, garlic scapes, and fresh feta. The two other options that day were snap peas, broccoli, and chevre and goateroni (goat pepperoni), chard, garlic and Olga (a mixed raw cow and goat milk cheese). We ordered the two we tasted, each opting to add snap peas to it.

Pizzas are made and baked individually as they need to be tended frequently while baking, but the whole process doesn’t take more than 10-15 minutes, if that, as long as there isn’t a line.

We took our pizzas to a small shelter with a picnic table. From here, while happily savoring every bite, we watched goats leaping in the fields. Afterward, we visited the farm store for maple goat gelato (heaven!) and to purchase cheeses.

Be sure to check the website for current hours before making a special trip.

A day on Penobscot Bay aboard the Maine Windjammer Stephen Taber

Hilary Nangle

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July 11, 2014

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A day on Penobscot Bay aboard the Maine Windjammer Stephen Taber

The winning crew of the Stephen Tabler. ©Hilary Nangle

Just as the show must go on, so must the race. Last Friday, on a foggy and damp morning, with Hurricane Arthur rumbling up the East Coast, I boarded the schooner Stephen Taber a floating National Historic Landmark, for the annual Maine Windjammer Association’s Great Schooner Race from Gilkey Harbor, off Islesboro, to the Rockland Breakwater. I trusted the captains more than the weather service, and that proved to be a smart decision. The heavy clouds parted and we actually enjoyed some sun for the all-day event.

Built in 1871, the Taber is the oldest vessel in continuous service in the Maine Windjammer Association fleet. “Technically, the French is older by a few months, but it didn’t operate one season,” Capt. Noah Barnes says, manning the wheel wearing his signature crisp, ironed white shirt. Today’s light air favors the French, he adds, because it has higher sails than the Taber.

The Stephen Taber

Capt. Noah Barnes at the wheel of the Schooner Stephen Taber. ©Hilary Nangle

The Great Schooner Race had its roots in a 1951 race between the Taber and the Wentworth, which no longer sails. The Taber won that won by a bowsprit, Barnes says, adding: “I have a great deal of respect for this boat. I owe a lot to how handy this schooner is. Things I’d never try on other boat, I can do with the Taber. Then again, I’ve been sailing her since I was 7, so that’s an advantage.”

Barnes, a second-generation windjammer owner and captain, took over from his parents Ken and Ellen more than a decade ago. He was working in public relations in New York City, and when he went home for Christmas, bringing his girlfriend, Jane, with him for the first time, his parents took him aside. “We’re retiring after next season,” they told him. “We have offers, but you have the first refusal and you have 45 days to decide.”

He knew immediately what his choice would be. “I said to Jane, ‘Jane I dig you, but I gotta do this.’ I felt I had no choice, I felt compelled. I had been running away from this for years.”

Wine-ing not whining

Hors d'oeuvres spread ©Hilary Nangle photo — Hors d’oeuvres spread with wine. ©Hilary Nangle photo

He worked for his parents as first mate that summer, and Jane, who worked in the wine biz, followed two years later. “I don’t know how to sail, but I can organize a wine tasting,” she says. And that’s what she did, organizing the Stephen Taber‘s first wine cruise in 2005. It was a tremendous success, and now the Taber offers five full-on wine cruises during the season. In addition, it serves wine every night with dinner on all cruises. “We have one red and one white table wine, different ones every night. They’re inexpensive wines, but not ones most people had heard of, but good wines.”

Just as some guests come repeatedly for the wine cruises, others return year after year for race week. Carol Riman, from Randolph, Mass., is back for the ninth consecutive year. She’s so enamored of the boat, crew, and captain, that she designed and made a needlepoint belt featuring the Taber for Barnes. “I think one of the reasons I keep coming back is the captain. I just fell in love with with the atmosphere in the boat and how he treats his staff,” she says. “The food is spectacular, and I meet such nice people.”

For your dining pleasure…

Lunch served on deck while sailing — Lunch! ©Tom Nangle

Anna Miller rings the lunch bell, and we gather around the buffet spread on deck. Miller, who cooks in the winters at Rockland’s wonderful In Good Company restaurant, has made a monster Mediterranean tuna sandwich comprising Tuna and probably a dozen veggies. Accompanying it is a green salad, a Moroccan carrot salad, and killer peanut butter cup bars. “I make a fast lunch for race day,” she says, since no one wants to spend a lot of time eating.

The Taber is in the lead as well approach the Breakwater. “We’re going to win,” I say to the captain. He smiles, but says because the pace has been so fast, they’ve decided to add another lap to the race. We’ll circle into the harbor and then out to a marker and back.

“I tacked to do that, I played that angle. That’s how you win the race.”

I look ahead and realize we’re heading straight for the breakwater. Barnes starts barking commands to his crew. I hold my breath.

Closer.

And just when it seems we’re sure to crash into the tip, we squeak by.

At least it was a squeak to me. Barnes says we had about 8 feet of clearance. But still… “I wouldn’t do that with any other boat,” Barnes says. “I tacked to do that, I played that angle. That’s how you win the race.”

Outrunning the Mary Day

A close sail by the Rockland Breakwater. ©Hilary Nangle

But it’s far from over, and the Mary Day isn’t far behind. “The Mary Day hasn’t lost the overall cup in decades,” Barnes says. “It’ll be a big thing if we win.” He keeps glancing over his shoulder at the Mary Day as well as ahead, watching the wind play in the sails of other boats.

With 300 yards to go, the wind dies. We drop from 7.5 to 1 knot per hour. The Mary Day keeps gaining on us, taking advantage of her higher sails to catch the light winds. “We need to be able to look straight down the breakwater to win,” Barnes says. Tension grips the boat. The radio cackles to life: “Did you do the sacrifice of a passenger this morning?” Yes, Barnes replies, “but don’t worry, she wasn’t well liked.”

Barnes strategizes in hopes of keeping the thinning lead. And then, the Mary Day not only slows, caught in that pocket of dead air, but also is legally cut off by another schooner on a tack. Barnes looks down the breakwater and gives the command to fire the cannon, signaling the win.

A crew member asks whether it would be too smug to put up the Eat My Wake flag. The response is unanimous, don’t do it. Barnes quietly explains why it’s not the right thing to do.

Winning, wining, and dining

Food spread aboard the Stephen Taber — Capt. Noah Barnes serves himself some “pork candy” aboard the Taber. ©Hilary Nangle

The captain opens a bottle of champagne during the cocktail hour, and we celebrate the victory while nibbling all manner of fancy hors d’oeuvres: cheeses and charcuterie, deviled eggs, lobster gougeres, stuffed peppers, her boat-made chicken liver pate with pickled rhubarb or fiddleheads, phyllo-wrapped bried with a chutney, and more. It’s enough to call dinner, but it’s not.

We’re all well into the wine when Bo ssam, a Korean pork dish, is laid out. “It’s pork candy,” Barnes says, as he demonstrates wrapping a scoop in a lettuce, adding rice, and topping it with Miller’s kimchee and a to-die-for ginger scallion sauce. Even though I’m full, I eat not one, not two, but three of them, opting to pass on dessert.

By the time I depart the Taber, it’s raining, hard. No matter. The wind blew, the sun shined, and we won the race. I have nothing but delicious memories of the day. Next time, I want to join the full race week sail. Maybe, just maybe, I can convince Barnes I was the good luck charm that won him the trophy.

passengers logbook — Passengers on the Stephen Taber are issued a schooner log, in which to journal their journey. I took a peek through this one, and learned about some of the experiences and meals enjoyed earlier in the week. ©Hilary Nangle

Road Food: Did somebody say doughnuts?

Hilary Nangle

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June 29, 2014

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Oh yum, here’s a find! Jeremy Towne, a.k.a the Towne Fryer. This spring, Towne relocated from Machias to Whiting, where he keeps his doughnut mobile parked on the front lawn of his Route 1 home. Go early if you want the raised honey glazed, as that sells out quickly.

NOTE: Sometimes Towne travels to the Route 1 dike in Machias, best to call for his current location 207-733-2066.