Two new barbeque joints open in Maine

My apologies; I’ve been neglecting this site as I’ve been trying to visit every nook and cranny of Maine for a new edition of Moon Maine. I do have lots of news to share, and I’ll begin with some recent BBQ finds.

Salvage BBQ, Portland

Salvage BBQ Hilary Nangle photoEarlier this weekend, I attended the pre-opening reception for Salvage BBQ, the newest venture from Portland chef/entrepreneur Jay Villani, think Local 188 and Sonny’s. The name pretty much says it all. This new barbecue joint is located in the former home of Portland Architectural Salvage, on  Congress Street–a couple of blocks up from St. John. That’s a plus for anyone staying at the Inn on St. John (a more budget-friendly lodging than most of Portland’s hotels).

Sampling portions of menu items circulated throughout the evening, and my friend L. and I tasted Villani’s dry-barbequed pork  and beef spare ribs, brisket, pulled pork, sausage, baked beans, hush puppies, greens, mac and cheese, and chicken. First place was a tie between the brisket and the chicken—I gave the chicken the blue ribbon, followed by the brisket; L. reversed that. Truth is, I far prefer chicken to red meat, so factor that in. This chicken was so moist and flavorful, I’d return for it alone. I really enjoyed the beans, sausage, and hush puppies but found the mac and cheese lacked any zing. Both L. and I thought this likely was created for kiddos.

Salvage BBQ bar. Hilary Nangle photoThe space is open and somewhat warehouse chic (shades of Fore Street). Big windows fill three walls, a bar runs most of the length of the inside wall, floor is wood, ceiling is high with ductwork, and the noise level is loud. Seating is at shared picnic tables, great for families and groups.

About that bar: comfy seating, 16 brews on tap, and an enticing cocktail menu posted on the blackboard.

Eat Here & Get Gas: Standard Gastropub, Bridgton

Standard Gastropub, Bridgton. Hilary Nangle photoHonestly, when I first walked by this gas station on Main Street, I thought the building was the usual convenience store. Nope, it’s a restaurant, Standard Gastropub (a groan-producing name that works), and it’s a much-welcome entry to Bridgton’s rather limited food scene.

Two Bridgton natives doing some serious cooking — and smoking. In addition to the usual BBQ offerings, the daily chalkboard specials (changes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner) might include Pork Rind Coated Schnitzel with Sweet Potato Risotto Asiago, and Garlic Rainbow Chard, Crispy Confit Duck & Goat Cheese Egg Rolls, and sometimes lobster rolls.

Lunch menu, Standard Gastropub Bridgton. Hilary Nangle photoThe breakfast menu includes items such as sriracha smoked pork, fried egg & American cheese
on Big Sky English muffin bread and soft-boiled egg packed in pork sausage & deep fried with Tabasco dark ale mustard sauce; lunch options include a house-smoked chicken sandwich with jalapeño & cilantro slaw and Standard sauce and a Kobe beef hot dog for kids.

The room has an open kitchen on one end, tables fill the rest. Did I sample? Nah, I’d just had a very filling lunch at nearby Beth’s Kitchen Cafe (great, casual breakfast/lunch bakery/deli, by the way, with a dog-friendly patio), but next time I’m in town, I definitely plan on eating here. If you go, I’d love to hear your thoughts about it.

 

 

 

Five Questions: Ron Crusan, Director, Ogunquit Museum of Art

Ogunquit Museum of Art, Hilary Nangle photoEnter the Ogunquit Museum of Art and it’s hard to decide where to look first: The works on the walls or the wall of windows framing the sculptures in the garden with rocky cliffs and ocean as the backdrop. Truth is, many people spend a week on Ogunquit’s famed sands without ever visiting the Ogunquit Museum of Art. Don’t make that mistake. This small museum is a treasure, both inside and out.

View from inside the Ogunquit Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photoOutside, sculptures by artists including William Zorach, Cabot Lyford, Bernard Langlais, and Robert Laurent accent the lawns and garden. Inside, paintings by some of the biggest names in American art hang on the walls.

During a 2013 visit, then museum director Ron Crusan shared his thoughts about the museum’s heritage and its future.

When did Ogunquit become an art colony and why?

When you think about Ogunquit and art, think about the early colonies. They brought a lot of artists here and it’s still an art colony. Art has always been a major part of Ogunquit.

Ogunquit Museum of Art director Ron Crusan stands between The Cliff by Charles Woodbury, and First Bridge, Perkins Cove by Hamilton Easter Field.In 1888, Boston artist Charles Woodbury saw Ogunquit and said: “What a great place for an arts school.” He bought about five acres between Perkins Cove and Shore Road for $400. This museum sits on part of that land. At that time, the fishermen lived inland, they didn’t want to look at the ocean; the land was too salty and rocky for farmers; and the idea of a leisure class didn’t exist. Woodbury started the first colony, and his studio is still in Perkins Cove and operated the school for a number of years.

Then, Hamilton Easter Field came along and said: “What a great place for an arts school.” He opened Ogunquit’s second art school on the other side of the cove. Easter Field was a Modernist from New York. Early on he bought a lot of the Perkins Cove fishing shacks from the fishermen. Fishermen loved him. He added electricity and built an ice house, and gave them to the fishermen.

Sculptures outside the Ogunquit Museum of Art and views that are much the same as when the art schools began in the late 1800s. Hilary nangle photo. The artists were here, the fishermen had nice amenities, and then the hotels came. One had success and then another opened up.  People started to come to see the artists and the fishermen.  That’s how the tourist industry started here. Now, there are about 100 hotels, B&Bs, etc., in Ogunquit. When you think there are 1,300 year-round residents, and nearly 70,000 summer visitors; I like to say the artists had a great part in that, people came to see the art.

Artists still come here to paint on the museum grounds. That’s our tradition. When you think of some of the well-known painters who’ve painted here, you can see the same scenes. You can look out the window and see the same scenes, the same rocks where they painted.

How did the museum get started?

One of the artists who came was Henry Strater. He first came here in 1919, studied here, spent time in Europe, came back, settled here. He knew Easter Field in New York, and met Hemingway and Pound in Europe. Eventually, after years of summering in Ogunquit, he decided to build a museum here to honor the artists, and he slowly built a collection of American art.

Construction began in 1952, and the museum opened in 1953; this is our 60th year. The museum was much smaller than it is today and it was only open in July and August. There was no heat, and it was all-natural light. It’s very different now. We’ve developed over the years, and we continue to develop and improve. Today, the museum’s numbers about 2,000 objects, including works by John Marin, Walt Kuhn, Marsden Hartley, and others who visited Ogunquit.

How long have you been here and what’s your mission?

Warhol exhibit at the Ogunquit Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photoI’ve been in the art field for more than 25 years. I’ve been a curator, a director at other museums. I came here for the collection: It’s a fabulous American Modernist collection. I’ve been director here for five years.  I’ve tried to open it up, broaden our audience, bring people in, and expand our corporate program.

I don’t want to be stagnant, just Ogunquit artists. Want an active museum, with a lot of activity. Want people to be excited by the new stuff as well as the old stuff. We do focus on Maine, on Ogunquit, but we are an American Art Museum. We rotate exhibits about every other month. We show a lot of beach and ocean, but we try to challenge the viewer. The current Warhol exhibition is an example. The Warhol show is bigger than just our collection.

How did the Warhol exhibition come about?

Never-before-seen photos of Warhol at the Ogunquit Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photoPeter Kelly, who divides his time between Ogunquit and New York, had a friend who knew and photographed Warhol, but she had never shown or printed her works. I went to New York to talk with photographer Pat Hackett about it and decided that what made sense for us was to pair her photographs with a collection of Warhol’s works. She chose 60 works to be printed and wrote the text. We sourced Warhol works from private collections. He made gifts to people he knew locally, and we’ve had that connection.

The exhibit shows Warhol’s need to develop the artist as a celebrity. His goal was to raise his profile and increase his business. He bought her a camera and told her to photograph him with everyone he knew. At first she took pictures of Joan Crawford or Warren Beatty. Warhol told her: “You’re not getting it. Take a photo of them with ME in it.”  It raised his profile and his business. It’s done the same for the museum. Since opening (4 days earlier), we’ve broken all records for attendance.

What distinguishes the Ogunquit Museum of Art, what are the treasures?

Portraits of Hemmingway by Henry Srater are paired with a fishing photo. Hilary Nangle photo. In the Strater Gallery are two portraits of Ernest Hemingway that Strater painted while in Paris.  Hemmingway found the first “Too damn literary, like H.G. Wells,” so Strater painted him again after they boxed.

Paired with the paintings is a photo of the two fishing off Bimini. They were out fishing for 30 days, and Strater had the prized fish— on a reel, by the way. As he was pulling it in, Hemingway started to shoot the fish with a machine gun, which resulted in a lot of blood and a lot of sharks, but that’s not what made Strater mad. He couldn’t enter it  in the contest, because it wasn’t whole. When a photo appeared in Time magazine, the caption said that Hemingway had caught the fish. Hemingway wouldn’t correct it. That’s what made Strater mad.

[The “Sixty Works–60 Years” exhibition, on view through October 2013, comprises some of the most important pieces from the museum’s permanent collection. Included are works by Henry Strater, Charles Woodbury, Hamilton Easter Field, Walt Kuhn, Charles Burchfield, Marsden Hartley, Reginald Marsh, and Rockwell Kent. Here Crusan highlights a few treasures]

The Cliff by Charles Woodbury, and First Bridge, Perkins Cove by Hamilton Easter Field: These two works by the founders of Ogunquit’s art schools hang side by side. First Bridge depicts the cove before it was dredged when it was more of a creek.

Ogunquit Museum of Art Director Ron Crusan with Sleeping Girl by Walt Kuhn. Hilary Nangle photoSleeping Girl, by Walt Kuhn, a modernist who lived in New York and Cape Neddick: This portrait of a girl was in his studio for 30 years. When he died, his wife, Vera, gave it as a gift to museum. It’s one of his greatest works.  Just this past winter, it was in a retrospective of his work.

Still Life with Eel, by Marsden Hartley: This is a very important work. It’s a transition piece between his work in Europe and coming back and painting in Maine. When in Europe, he painted the German Officer series, with emblems and patches that told the story of this German officer. When he came back to the states and to Maine, you can see the same patterns in this work.

The Bowery Drunks, by Reginald Marsh: Marsh was a member of the Ashcan school. Ashcan artists painted the grit of New York, which was very different from the pastoral scenes a lot of artists were painting. This depicts life on the streets in New York’s Bowery.

Works from the permanent collection on display in the Ogunquit Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.Alaskan Sunrise, by Rockwell Kent. Kent spent time in Russia and Alaska as well as on Monhegan Island.

North Wind in March, by Charles Burchfield: Usually watercolors are small, but this is a huge piece. Very few museums have paintings of this size.

 

Q & A with Capt. Jon Finger, schooner J&E Riggin

1
Capt. Jon Finger, J&E Riggin. Hilary Nangle photo
Capt. Jon Finger at the wheel of the schooner J&E Riggin. ©Hilary Nangle

I had the good fortune to spend a day sailing aboard the schooner J&E Riggin during the annual Parade of Sail by the Rockland Breakwater. The Riggin, a National Historic Landmark, was built in 1929 as an oyster dredger. Refitted for passengers, it now offers 4- to 10-day sails along the Maine coast. Owners Annie Mahle and Jon Finger are both captains, but Annie, renowned for her cooking, can usually be found in the galley, while Jon navigates the tricky waters.

What is special about a windjammer vacation?

Slow down and enjoy life aboard the Riggin. Hilary Nangle photo
Relaxing aboard the Maine windjammer, schooner J&E Riggin. ©Hilary Nangle

The best way to see Maine is from these old sailing vessels. It forces you to slow down and take in the scenery. There is no engine, no tires. It’s all about the wind and tide. It’s relatively slow moving in today’s fast-paced world, but it shows you what it was like to live in simpler times.

Being aboard a windjammer gives you the time to enjoy each others’ company, to tell stories, sit and enjoy a great meal, take in the sights and the sounds and the smells.

Every day is different, the scenery is always changing. Being aboard lets you take it all in and absorb it. These coastal mountains,  spruce-clad islands, ledges with seals, the osprey: There so much that you can’s see from a car or bus.

Why sail aboard the schooner J&E Riggin?

Raising sails aboard the Riggin. Hilary Nangle photoWe have a reputation in the fleet of having the best food and that comes from Annie’s passion for cooking. And because we’re a husband/wife team, there’s a family atmosphere.

It’s Annie’s cooking though that sets us apart. Because she’s so passionate about serving the freshest and best — it often comes from our own garden— there’s a farm-to-table atmosphere. The eggs come from our own chickens, the lettuce, radishes, garlic, and herbs from our garden. When our guests arrive, many take taxis and when they tell the driver they’re sailing aboard the Riggin, the drivers tell them they’ll “love the food.”

What makes the waters of Penobcot Bay such a destination for sailors?

Guests relaxing aboard the Riggin. Hilary Nangle photo
Guests relaxing while sailing aboard a Maine windjammer on Penobscot Bay. ©Hilary Nangle

Choices, lots of choices. It’s a fairly protected body of water, an no matter what direction the wind is blowing we have all these choices of what direction we can go.

There’s the beauty of the coast and being able to weave in and out of the islands. Compare that with Newport (Rhode Island): You leave Newport and your choice is Block Island or Martha’s Vineyard, and you spend all day in open ocean and everyone is getting sea sick.

The beauty of Penobscot, Jericho, and Blue Hill Bays is you don’t have to go into open ocean. And we have thousands of islands on the coast of Maine. We’ve had people who’ve lived their entire life in Maine and they come out with us and say they had no idea there were so many islands.

What are some of your favorite places to sail?

I like Bartlett’s Island Narrows in Blue Hill Bay and Somes Sound, Valley Cove is dramatic. Bartlett Island is such a pretty island, so well manicured—I think the Rockefellers own it—and sailing through the Narrows is fun. There are mountains, islands, and bald eagles, and the sailing the Narrows is a challenge.

What don’t people understand about sailing aboard a windjammer?

Guests give the Riggin a thumbs up. Hilary Nangle photoGuests are taken in by the romance. We are bound by wind and tide to where we go. Most people have a destination in mind, depart point A for point B, and they want to know what point B is. I can’t tell them. It depends upon the wind and tide. I can’t pick B until 3:30 pm. I always know where we are, I just don’t know where we’re going.

Given the opportunity, we ask if anyone wants to take a trick at the wheel. They’re always surprised at how she responds. Some guests don’t know how to figure out where the winds is blowing from, they’ve lost that connection to the natural elements. We once had a charter, a blind adventure group. We put them on the wheel on a day with a nice, gentle breeze. Each could instantly tell which way the wind was blowing. I told them to keep the wind over their right shoulder and go straight. Most were steering better than those who can see.

You’re based in Rockland, what shouldn’t people miss while here?

The Farnsworth Art Museum and Wyeth Center, definitely. The Owls Head Transportation Museum because it has such cool stuff. Where else can you go ride in a biplane—and because it’s a trainer, you’re in front—plus, they have such cool cars. Where else can you see a 1965 Shelby Cobra? I always drool over that one. We also love In Good Company, a small, intimate restaurant. When we have a couple of hours off between sails, we go in. We don’t need reservations and if we sit in the back, chances are we won’t see anyone we know. That’s hard in a small town.

Capt. Jon returning to the Riggin, anchored in Rockport Harbor. Hilary Nangle photo

 

 

 

 

 

Checking in: West Street Hotel, Bar Harbor

Check into the West Street Hotel, Bar Harbor, for contemporary nautical decor and nice perks.. ©Hilary Nangle
Bar Harbor’s West Street Hotel has a primo downtown location facing the harbor and access to facilities at its sister property, the Harborside. ©Hilary Nangle

The West Street Hotel, one of the newer additions to the Ocean Properties empire, opened in 2012 on the corner of Main and West Streets in downtown Bar Harbor. Frankly, I was suspect of the property, as construction required a controversial variance to the town’s height law. Locals aren’t fond of either the height or the Miami-does-Maine facade, but when offered the opportunity to visit in 2013, I went. What I found was a smart, boutique hotel with a sophisticated, nautically inspired decor, spacious rooms—many with balconies and most with prime views, and a decent pub-style restaurant.

Guest room, West Street Hotel, Bar Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle
Guest rooms at the West Street Hotel have a contemporary nautical decor. Many have balconies and water views. ©Hilary Nangle

Guest room amenities

Guest rooms offer plentiful contemporary amenities: free Wi-Fi, plush linens, heated bathroom floors, flat-screen TVs, and refrigerators. I loved the views from my third-floor balcony: over the harborfront to Bar Island and even out to a few of the Porcupine Islands. Noise from the street and pub below wasn’t a problem; but I can see how it could be. That said, heavy drapes not only block the light but also minimize noise from outside.

The only things missing are in-room coffee and tea. Each floor, however, has a pantry area with a Keurig for brewing coffee, ice, complementary water, morning fruit, and evening snacks. Tea drinkers are ignored (but I made a suggestion to the manager, and I’m hopeful that electric kettles will made available along with Forte tea, which is served in the restaurant). Of course, to get your morning jolt, you’ll have to either get dressed or ignore vanity and pad down the hall in your bathrobe.

Hotel perks

Rooftop pool, West Street Hotel, Bar Harbor. @Hilary Nangle
Love the dreamy water views over Bar Harbor and the Porcupine Islands from the West Street Hotel’s rooftop infinity pool. @Hilary Nangle

The hotel does have some other noteworthy perks: Guests older than 18 have use of a heated, rooftop pool with gull’s-eye views over the harbor. And, all guests have access to the facilities at the Harborside, the hotel’s sister property across the street. These include tennis courts, a full-service spa, and two outdoor pools, and a hot tub.

I spent too little time enjoying these benies, but I confess that I easily could have spent a day lounging by that rooftop pool. I’d just want to be sure to arrive early enough to snag one of the shaded loungers. I also would have enjoyed spending time in the spa.

The West Street Hotel and its sister property offer a choice of dining options, and the rest of Bar Harbor's restaurants are within footsteps. ©Hilary Nangle
If you love lobster, you’ll love the dining options at the West Street Hotel. Start the day with lobster eggs benedict at Paddy’s and end it with a lobster dinner at Stewmans. ©Hilary Nangle

Dining options

Breakfast isn’t included in the hotel’s rates, but Paddy’s, the hotel’s Irish bar, is located on the street level, and it does a fine job (lobster Benedict!). The pub lays on the Irish theme with interior millwork handcrafted in Ireland, traditional Irish furnishing, and wall murals drawn from Irish folklore.

The menu also is a trip across the pond, with breakfast fare including a ploughman’s breakfast, bubble & squeak, and pan boxty scramble in addition to the usuals (and that lobster Benedict, $16); most items range $10-14.

Lunch and dinner options include lobster bisque and onion and Irish ale soup; Irish farm house chicken salad and a Celtic Caesar; sandwiches and burgers; and rotisserie items, which are cooked in a glassed in area; most run $10-28. The sliding glass doors open to the patio, with heat lamps, allowing diners to eat inside, outside, or in between.

And if you’re hungering for lobster, Stewman’s Lobster, across the street and another sister property, is the place to dress down and muckle on to one of the tasty critters while enjoying the harbor views.

Bottom line: The West Street Hotel is a good choice for folks who prefer a boutique hotel over a B&B, want to be front and center in Bar Harbor, and have access to that rooftop pool as well as the spa, tennis courts, and pools across the way.

One of the best perks of the West Street Hotel is the rooftop pool. ©Hilary Nangle
The West Street Hotel’s rooftop pool is especially dreamy at sunset. ©Hilary Nangle

 

Lunder collection inks Waterville on Maine’s art map

The three-story wall drawing on the stairway of the new Alfond-Lunder wing at Colby College Museum of Art by Sol LeWitt is illuminated at night. Colby College Museum of Art Courtesy of the Estate of Sol LeWitt

Colby College Museum of Art’s new Alfond-Lunder Family Pavilion is a game changer for Waterville. With the addition of this new wing, set to open to the public on July 13, 2013, the museum not only becomes the largest art museum in Maine in terms of gallery space, but also makes one of the most important holdings or American art assembled by private collectors accessible to all for free. “This adds another arts and culture destination to the map in Maine,” says Sharon Corwin, museum director and chief curator.

Lunder Collection: A remarkable gift to the people of Maine

A peak inside the new Alfond Lunder wing of the Colby Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.The new, 26,000-square-foot wing, which adds 10,000 square feet of exhibit space, was designed by Frederick Fisher and Partners Architects. It  was created specifically to house the recently donated Lunder Collection, comprising more than 600 pieces valued at more than $100 million, that was collected and donated to the college by Peter H. and Paula Crane Lunder.

According to a statement issued by the Lunders, the collection …

… was assembled with our personal vision and great pleasure over the course of more than thirty years. We started the collection while visiting Maine antique shops, then branched out to art galleries and museums in Montreal, Chicago, Washington, D.C., New York, and Boston. We sought scholarly advice from curators, museum directors, artists, art dealers, and consultants to help us select objects of exceptional quality. The knowledge, the relationships, the experiences, the pure pleasure of being involved with the art world have contributed greatly to our lives.

What makes the gift especially remarkable, says Colby College President William D. Adams, is its intention. “The Lunders wanted to make this art available to the people of Maine.” Since Colby’s museum doesn’t charge admission, anyone can experience these masterpieces.

A grand tour through American art

A peak inside the new Alfond Lunder wing of the Colby Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.I had the privilege of touring the new wing and viewing some of the paintings, prints, sculptures, photographs, drawings, and other objects.

I was wowed.

The collection is a grand tour through the history of American art. It’s not only the breadth of the collection, but also its depth; it bridges the centuries, with the oldest piece dating from 1796. Works range from folk art to classical to challenging.

A peak inside the new Alfond Lunder wing of the Colby Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.Also remarkable, Corwin says, is that the Lunders began collecting European works, before beginning to add 19th-century American works. “This collection was amassed only in the last 16 years.”

Nearly 500 works are by American masters. It’s an impressive list that reads like a Who’s Who of American art: John Singer Sargent, Mary Cassatt, George Inness, William Merritt Chase, Winslow Homer, Augustus Saint-Gaudens, Edward Hopper, Alexander Calder, Georgia O’Keeffe, Alex Katz, Louise Nevelson, Romare Bearden, Donald Judd, John Chamberlain, George Rickey, and Jenny Holzer, among others.

A peak inside the new Alfond Lunder wing of the Colby Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.Part of the Lunder Collection is a remarkable concentration of works by James McNeill Whistler, including the painting Chelsea in Ice (1864), almost two dozen more paintings, watercolors and pastels, and a group of 201 etchings and lithographs, accompanied by some 150 books, journals, photographs and archival materials related to Whistler. In addition, it includes 40 exceptional examples of Chinese ritual and mortuary ceramics dating from the prehistoric period to the Jin Dynasty (1126-1234), which complement the museum’s existing holdings in Chinese ceramics.

Thematic galleries

A peak inside the new Alfond Lunder wing of the Colby Museum of Art. Hilary Nangle photo.Works are being exhibited thematically, for example: poetic mode, artists and models, working the waters, views from abroad, Taos School, childhood, and seasons. Especially  notable is the work the Sol LeWitt work that spans the three-story staircase. It can be viewed from outside and is especially stunning when illuminated at night.

The $15 million glass pavilion adds four new galleries to the museum, all are devoted to exhibiting works from the permanent collection. It also add a new education classroom as well as third-floor classrooms and studios for Colby students. It is expected to receive LEED Silver certification.

When the museum reopens July 13, hours will be Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m.—5 p.m. and Sunday noon —5 p.m. Admission is free.

 

Top photo: Colby College Museum of Art/Courtesy of the Estate of Sol LeWitt/photo by Gary Green

All others: ©Hilary Nangle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Harlequin romance: great opportunity for birders

Ready to romance a harlequin? Here’s a wonderful and rare opportunity to spy threatened harlequin ducks in Maine. On Saturday, March 30, Bob and Sandi Duschene (Bob’s the founder of the Maine Birding Trail and author of the guidebook) are leading a 2.5-hour cruise, departing from Stonington, to sight the duck named for the vivid markings that call to mind the Italian clown.

The shores of Isle au Haut and surrounding islands are thought to be principal wintering grounds in the United States for the harlequin duck.  Other expected sightings include surf, white-winged, and black scoters, horned and red-necked grebes, red-throated and common loons, long-tailed ducks,buffleheads, red-breasted mergansers, purple sandpipers, and, according to organizers, “at least one other surprise.”

The cruise, organized by Island Heritage Trust, is $30 per person and advance reservations are required. Call 207-348-2455.

Where to dine on Valentine’s Day in Portland

I love this flow chart, created by the good folks at Maine Restaurant Week, detailing suggestions for where to dine with your loved one on the big heart holiday. Maybe for 2014 they’ll come up with one for the entire state of Maine. In the meantime, start planning and making reservations.

And do think ahead, too: Maine Restaurant Week is nearly upon us, and some participating restaurants have already begun posting their menus for the March 1-10, 2013 event. Think of it as a great opportunity to sample someplace new or return to an old haunt that you haven’t visited recently.

Maine Restaurant Week's guide to how to choose where to dine with your valentine.

Portland to Boston: Bus or train?

Debating the best way to travel between Boston and Maine? The best options are the Concord Coachlines bus service or the Amtrak Downeaster train service. Here’s the skinny on both:

Travel between Boston and Maine via Concord Coach Lines bus

The Concord Coach Lines bus has extremely frequent service between Boston’s Logan Airport, Boston’s South Station, and Portland’s Transportation Center, with less frequent buses continuing up the coast or routing inland to Augusta and Bangor.

Put aside any qualms you may have about taking buses. This service is excellent: Drivers are professional and courteous, coaches are spotless, movies are shown (bring your own headphones or purchase cheap ones at the station), there’s free WiFi, most coaches have power outlets at each seat, passengers departing Portland are offered free water and pretzels, and all coaches have a restroom. Cell phone use is prohibited except for emergencies and quick calls.

This is a great service that I use frequently when headed to Boston and always when I’m flying via Logan. Because the bus docks in Boston’s South Station, it’s also the easiest access for Amtrak’s Northeast corridor trains. (You can easily walk between the bus and train terminals. All trains heading south depart from here, only those headed to Maine depart from North Station).

Routes:

• Portland/Boston: Most buses between Portland and Boston visit South Station, before continuing to Logan Airport; a few reverse that; and there also are direct buses between Portland and Logan. The Logan buses stop at all terminals, dropping off at departures and picking up outside arrivals (look for the blue Scheduled Buses sign).

• Coastal service: The coastal route stops in Brunswick, Bath, Wiscasset, Damariscotta, Waldoboro, Rockland, Camden/Rockport, Lincolnville, Belfast, and Searsport, before turning inland to Bangor, and Orono. From Bangor, there are options for getting to Bar Harbor.

• Inland service: The inland route stops in Augusta, at Colby College in Waterville, Bangor, and Orono.

Tickets:

You can purchase tickets online or at the stations. If you don’t have a ticket, expect the driver to take something as collateral, which will be returned once you purchase one at a station. You can also purchase tickets via Megabus, but be forewarned, while some are heavily discounted, others are more expensive: Check both sites before purchasing.

Travel between Boston and Portland via Amtrak Downeaster train

Travel between Boston and Maine aboard the the Amtrak Downeaster . ©Hilary Nangle
Amtrak’s Downeaster operates between Boston’s North Station and Wells, Old Orchard, Saco, Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick Maine stations. ©Hilary Nangle

Amtrak’s Downeaster train operates between Boston’s North Station and Portland’s Transportation Center, with less frequent service to Freeport and Brunswick.

The train’s a bit pricier and the ride’s a bit longer than the bus, but it’s nice to be able to move around the cars, and it edges the coastline for a bit, before veering inland providing glimpses of communities en route, rather than highways.

WiFi is free, there are power outlets available, and there’s a cafe car offering light fare and drinks as well as Charlie Cards for the Boston T. Seats are less cramped and restrooms are much nicer than those on the bus. Other pluses: The train is accessible for those in wheelchairs and it tends to be more reliable when the weather is really bad. I wish the train ran more frequently, because I would take it more often.

The Route:

Between Boston and Portland, the train stops in Woburn/Anderson and Haverhill, Mass.; Exeter, durham-UNH, and Durham, N.H.; and Wells, Saco, and Old Orchard Beach (seasonal), Maine. Trains also continue north from Portland, stopping in Freeport and Brunswick. From Boston, if you want to continue south on Amtrak, you have to cab or take the T to South Station.

Tickets:

Purchase online or at the station. Do check for applicable discounts; some of these require a three-day advance purchase.

 

Savoring art, antiques, and the art of breakfast at Portland’s Pomegranate Inn

The Pomegranate Inn, on Portland's West End, is dressed in an electic combination of contemporary art and antiques. Courtesy photoNOTE: As of January, 2025, The Pomegranate Inn is part of the West End Inn. It’s currently under renovation. Updated June 19, 2025

Every morning, when I see the Pomegrante Inn‘s feed on Facebook, I start drooling. Innkeeper Dana Moos authored The Art of Breakfast, which I reviewed when it was published. I finally spent a night at the inn earlier this week.

Now before I start dishing about the inn, and especially about the breakfast, know this: Dana is leaving the inn at the end of March (2013) to pursue other opportunities, especially catering. So if you want to experience her breakfasts, you need to steal away soon (and enjoy off-season rates, too).

Contemporary art, handpainted walls and floors, and antiques mix at Portland's Pomegranate Inn. Courtesy photo. 483072_4028288259638_246982164_nStaying a the Pomegranate is like sleeping in a combination contemporary art gallery and specialty antiques boutique; it’s an immersion into color and whimsy. The decor is not traditional B&B or inn, but eclectic, surprising, sophisticated, and fun. Museum-quality artwork by contemporary Maine artists hangs throughout the house, an Italianate mansion in Portland’s West End neighborhood. The art is complemented by authentic, fun, and funky antiques and faux this and that, all flirting with hand-painted walls.

Downstairs public rooms include front-to-back living and dining rooms, each with a fireplace and each with all sorts of intriguing accent pieces. Color is rampant throughout: This isn’t a place for the color shy.

Room 4, like most of the guest rooms at the Pomegranate Inn on Portland's West End, has hand-painted walls. Courtesy photo.I checked into Room 4, which reminded me of an English manor house inn. It was spacious, decorated with a mix of art and antiques, had a gas-fired fireplace, small flat-screen TV, and a seating area with two wingback chairs. What I loved most were the hand-painted walls, with a branch motif and lovebirds. Bedding with rich and comfy. The bathroom small but had everything necessary, right down to a nightlight.

I could have holed up in my room for hours, but there was rugelach and tea downstairs. Although I tried to refrain, I returned for another piece of this delicious treat, and then another.

Outside the snow fell softly; inside, I watched TV, dozed, and enjoyed the fire. Not wanting to drive in the snow or give up my off-street parking place, I walked to dinner at Caiola’s, an easy jaunt, for a light meal off the apps section of the menu and a glass of wine.

Ricotta, butternut squash, and zucchini crepes, served at the Pomegranate Inn, are one of the many breakfast recipes in Dana Moos' The Art of Breakfast. Courtesy photo.As expected, breakfast the next morning was a treat that began with grapefruit brulée and ended with ricotta, Parmesan, butternut squash, and zucchini crepes served on a bed of spinach and accompanied by truffled, roasted potato wedges and a cup of fresh strawberries. This was a sweet and savory dish that I couldn’t stop eating, even when long past full. Presentation was in keeping with the art theme, unfortunately I neglected to take a picture. Trust me, it was almost too pretty to eat.

The inn’s location on Portland’s West End is within walking distance of restaurants and within strolling distance of Arts District attractions. If you don’t mind hoofing, you can wander through most of the downtown area—and work off those breakfasts and snacks in the process.

Here’s the recipe from the cookbook; I think it would be equally good as a brunch, lunch, or even light dinner fare.

Ricotta, Butternut Squash & Zucchini Crepes with Sage Brown Butter

From The Art of Breakfast, by Dana Moos

12 Basic Crepes

1 whole Butternut squash
2 sweet onions
1 medium zucchini
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
15 ounces Ricotta cheese
1 cup cottage cheese
1 egg yolk
½ teaspoon salt
1 stick butter
2 large sage leaves
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Halve and seed the squash and roast until soft, about 45- 55 minutes. Once cooled slightly, remove the skin.

While the squash is roasting, dice the onions and dice the zucchini and sauté in olive oil until lightly browned and soft, about 10-15 minutes.

Put the squash, Ricotta, cottage cheese, egg yolk and salt in food processor and mix until very smooth. Place 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each crepe.Add 1 tablespoon of the zucchini and onion mixture and fold in each side, creating small square pouches.Place seam side down onto a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining crepes. Cover and bake the crepes for 20 minutes until puffed.Uncover and cook for another 5 minutes. (Alternatively, you could pan fry them in butter and olive oil until lightly browned on each side and then place in oven for 10 minutes to finish

Heat the butter in small sauté pan over medium heat with sage leaves until the butter just starts to brown, about 10-12 minutes (it will first bubble, then brown). Remove the sage leaves.

To serve, place two crepes on a plate and drizzle with the browned butter. Add freshly cracked black pepper to taste and top with a sprinkling of shredded Parmesan.

This just in: New RV campground opening in Winter Harbor

Park your self-contained RV in Winter Harbor and explore the Schoodic Peninsula or hop the ferry to Bar Harbor. Courtesy photo. Acadia’s Schoodic region is getting a new RV campground. Roger and Pearl Barto, who operate the Main Stay Cottages in Winter Harbor, have added a 10-site, harborfront RV park to their enterprise.

The sites can accommodate 45-foot +/- self-contained RVs. Sewer, water, 50-30-20 electric and Wifi are available. Note: Sites are not pull through, and there are no restrooms or showers available on site. The campground edges Henry’s Cove and has views to Cadillac Mountain on Mount Desert Island.

The location makes it easy to explore both the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park via car, bicycle, or Island Explorer bus service. And the passenger ferry to Bar Harbor makes it equally easy to explore the park on Mount Desert Island.