Where to dine on Valentine’s Day in Portland

I love this flow chart, created by the good folks at Maine Restaurant Week, detailing suggestions for where to dine with your loved one on the big heart holiday. Maybe for 2014 they’ll come up with one for the entire state of Maine. In the meantime, start planning and making reservations.

And do think ahead, too: Maine Restaurant Week is nearly upon us, and some participating restaurants have already begun posting their menus for the March 1-10, 2013 event. Think of it as a great opportunity to sample someplace new or return to an old haunt that you haven’t visited recently.

Maine Restaurant Week's guide to how to choose where to dine with your valentine.

Portland to Boston: Bus or train?

Debating the best way to travel between Boston and Maine? The best options are the Concord Coachlines bus service or the Amtrak Downeaster train service. Here’s the skinny on both:

Travel between Boston and Maine via Concord Coach Lines bus

The Concord Coach Lines bus has extremely frequent service between Boston’s Logan Airport, Boston’s South Station, and Portland’s Transportation Center, with less frequent buses continuing up the coast or routing inland to Augusta and Bangor.

Put aside any qualms you may have about taking buses. This service is excellent: Drivers are professional and courteous, coaches are spotless, movies are shown (bring your own headphones or purchase cheap ones at the station), there’s free WiFi, most coaches have power outlets at each seat, passengers departing Portland are offered free water and pretzels, and all coaches have a restroom. Cell phone use is prohibited except for emergencies and quick calls.

This is a great service that I use frequently when headed to Boston and always when I’m flying via Logan. Because the bus docks in Boston’s South Station, it’s also the easiest access for Amtrak’s Northeast corridor trains. (You can easily walk between the bus and train terminals. All trains heading south depart from here, only those headed to Maine depart from North Station).

Routes:

• Portland/Boston: Most buses between Portland and Boston visit South Station, before continuing to Logan Airport; a few reverse that; and there also are direct buses between Portland and Logan. The Logan buses stop at all terminals, dropping off at departures and picking up outside arrivals (look for the blue Scheduled Buses sign).

• Coastal service: The coastal route stops in Brunswick, Bath, Wiscasset, Damariscotta, Waldoboro, Rockland, Camden/Rockport, Lincolnville, Belfast, and Searsport, before turning inland to Bangor, and Orono. From Bangor, there are options for getting to Bar Harbor.

• Inland service: The inland route stops in Augusta, at Colby College in Waterville, Bangor, and Orono.

Tickets:

You can purchase tickets online or at the stations. If you don’t have a ticket, expect the driver to take something as collateral, which will be returned once you purchase one at a station. You can also purchase tickets via Megabus, but be forewarned, while some are heavily discounted, others are more expensive: Check both sites before purchasing.

Travel between Boston and Portland via Amtrak Downeaster train

Travel between Boston and Maine aboard the the Amtrak Downeaster . ©Hilary Nangle
Amtrak’s Downeaster operates between Boston’s North Station and Wells, Old Orchard, Saco, Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick Maine stations. ©Hilary Nangle

Amtrak’s Downeaster train operates between Boston’s North Station and Portland’s Transportation Center, with less frequent service to Freeport and Brunswick.

The train’s a bit pricier and the ride’s a bit longer than the bus, but it’s nice to be able to move around the cars, and it edges the coastline for a bit, before veering inland providing glimpses of communities en route, rather than highways.

WiFi is free, there are power outlets available, and there’s a cafe car offering light fare and drinks as well as Charlie Cards for the Boston T. Seats are less cramped and restrooms are much nicer than those on the bus. Other pluses: The train is accessible for those in wheelchairs and it tends to be more reliable when the weather is really bad. I wish the train ran more frequently, because I would take it more often.

The Route:

Between Boston and Portland, the train stops in Woburn/Anderson and Haverhill, Mass.; Exeter, durham-UNH, and Durham, N.H.; and Wells, Saco, and Old Orchard Beach (seasonal), Maine. Trains also continue north from Portland, stopping in Freeport and Brunswick. From Boston, if you want to continue south on Amtrak, you have to cab or take the T to South Station.

Tickets:

Purchase online or at the station. Do check for applicable discounts; some of these require a three-day advance purchase.

 

Savoring art, antiques, and the art of breakfast at Portland’s Pomegranate Inn

The Pomegranate Inn, on Portland's West End, is dressed in an electic combination of contemporary art and antiques. Courtesy photoNOTE: As of January, 2025, The Pomegranate Inn is part of the West End Inn. It’s currently under renovation. Updated June 19, 2025

Every morning, when I see the Pomegrante Inn‘s feed on Facebook, I start drooling. Innkeeper Dana Moos authored The Art of Breakfast, which I reviewed when it was published. I finally spent a night at the inn earlier this week.

Now before I start dishing about the inn, and especially about the breakfast, know this: Dana is leaving the inn at the end of March (2013) to pursue other opportunities, especially catering. So if you want to experience her breakfasts, you need to steal away soon (and enjoy off-season rates, too).

Contemporary art, handpainted walls and floors, and antiques mix at Portland's Pomegranate Inn. Courtesy photo. 483072_4028288259638_246982164_nStaying a the Pomegranate is like sleeping in a combination contemporary art gallery and specialty antiques boutique; it’s an immersion into color and whimsy. The decor is not traditional B&B or inn, but eclectic, surprising, sophisticated, and fun. Museum-quality artwork by contemporary Maine artists hangs throughout the house, an Italianate mansion in Portland’s West End neighborhood. The art is complemented by authentic, fun, and funky antiques and faux this and that, all flirting with hand-painted walls.

Downstairs public rooms include front-to-back living and dining rooms, each with a fireplace and each with all sorts of intriguing accent pieces. Color is rampant throughout: This isn’t a place for the color shy.

Room 4, like most of the guest rooms at the Pomegranate Inn on Portland's West End, has hand-painted walls. Courtesy photo.I checked into Room 4, which reminded me of an English manor house inn. It was spacious, decorated with a mix of art and antiques, had a gas-fired fireplace, small flat-screen TV, and a seating area with two wingback chairs. What I loved most were the hand-painted walls, with a branch motif and lovebirds. Bedding with rich and comfy. The bathroom small but had everything necessary, right down to a nightlight.

I could have holed up in my room for hours, but there was rugelach and tea downstairs. Although I tried to refrain, I returned for another piece of this delicious treat, and then another.

Outside the snow fell softly; inside, I watched TV, dozed, and enjoyed the fire. Not wanting to drive in the snow or give up my off-street parking place, I walked to dinner at Caiola’s, an easy jaunt, for a light meal off the apps section of the menu and a glass of wine.

Ricotta, butternut squash, and zucchini crepes, served at the Pomegranate Inn, are one of the many breakfast recipes in Dana Moos' The Art of Breakfast. Courtesy photo.As expected, breakfast the next morning was a treat that began with grapefruit brulée and ended with ricotta, Parmesan, butternut squash, and zucchini crepes served on a bed of spinach and accompanied by truffled, roasted potato wedges and a cup of fresh strawberries. This was a sweet and savory dish that I couldn’t stop eating, even when long past full. Presentation was in keeping with the art theme, unfortunately I neglected to take a picture. Trust me, it was almost too pretty to eat.

The inn’s location on Portland’s West End is within walking distance of restaurants and within strolling distance of Arts District attractions. If you don’t mind hoofing, you can wander through most of the downtown area—and work off those breakfasts and snacks in the process.

Here’s the recipe from the cookbook; I think it would be equally good as a brunch, lunch, or even light dinner fare.

Ricotta, Butternut Squash & Zucchini Crepes with Sage Brown Butter

From The Art of Breakfast, by Dana Moos

12 Basic Crepes

1 whole Butternut squash
2 sweet onions
1 medium zucchini
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
15 ounces Ricotta cheese
1 cup cottage cheese
1 egg yolk
½ teaspoon salt
1 stick butter
2 large sage leaves
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Halve and seed the squash and roast until soft, about 45- 55 minutes. Once cooled slightly, remove the skin.

While the squash is roasting, dice the onions and dice the zucchini and sauté in olive oil until lightly browned and soft, about 10-15 minutes.

Put the squash, Ricotta, cottage cheese, egg yolk and salt in food processor and mix until very smooth. Place 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each crepe.Add 1 tablespoon of the zucchini and onion mixture and fold in each side, creating small square pouches.Place seam side down onto a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining crepes. Cover and bake the crepes for 20 minutes until puffed.Uncover and cook for another 5 minutes. (Alternatively, you could pan fry them in butter and olive oil until lightly browned on each side and then place in oven for 10 minutes to finish

Heat the butter in small sauté pan over medium heat with sage leaves until the butter just starts to brown, about 10-12 minutes (it will first bubble, then brown). Remove the sage leaves.

To serve, place two crepes on a plate and drizzle with the browned butter. Add freshly cracked black pepper to taste and top with a sprinkling of shredded Parmesan.

This just in: New RV campground opening in Winter Harbor

Park your self-contained RV in Winter Harbor and explore the Schoodic Peninsula or hop the ferry to Bar Harbor. Courtesy photo. Acadia’s Schoodic region is getting a new RV campground. Roger and Pearl Barto, who operate the Main Stay Cottages in Winter Harbor, have added a 10-site, harborfront RV park to their enterprise.

The sites can accommodate 45-foot +/- self-contained RVs. Sewer, water, 50-30-20 electric and Wifi are available. Note: Sites are not pull through, and there are no restrooms or showers available on site. The campground edges Henry’s Cove and has views to Cadillac Mountain on Mount Desert Island.

The location makes it easy to explore both the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park via car, bicycle, or Island Explorer bus service. And the passenger ferry to Bar Harbor makes it equally easy to explore the park on Mount Desert Island.

 

Nibbles & Bites: Sunfire Mexican Grill, in Rockland, Maine

I’ve always enjoyed Sunfire Mexican Grill, but with so many restaurants in the area, I don’t get to go often. After a few years absence, I finally returned with my friend G the other night, and the experience lived up to my memories.

Sunfire occupies a double store front on Rockland’s lower Main Street. It’s bright and cheery inside, with wood floors, gold-hued walls, Mexican artwork that rises above kitschy, and a mix of wood and mosaic-tiled tables spaced well apart.

The Cal-Mex menu reflects the owners’ roots: They met in California, and his grandmother was Mexican. This isn’t the place to go for overflowing platters of Mexicanesque food glopped with cheese. Sunfire dishes out fresh Mexican with a Maine accent: think crabmeat enchiladas. Nor is it the place to go for a cheap meal: House specialties run $14-16. Of note, chips and salsa are not complementary here; a trio plate of chips, salsa, and guac is about $8.

Sunfire’s wine list is meager at best, and neither of the two whites I tasted had much going for it. Serving them in a regular glass didn’t help. G ordered a Margarita, smart girl. That’s the way to go here, and that’s what I’ll do next time I return.

Unlike many Mexican restaurants, Sunfire’s menu isn’t overwhelming, but it covers all bases. It offers quesadillas, salads, tostadas, burritos, and combo plates in addition to a handful of specialties. We opted for latter. I ordered the fish tacos, G opted for the mole chicken enchiladas, and we shared plates. Both were delicious, but we both think the fish tacos, made with fresh, blackened haddock and a smokey chipotle lime crema, won the taste war. The fish was moist, the flavor sharp.

Both entrees came with refried beans, rice, and small salad comprising lettuce and pickled red onions. We found the portions right-sized for one person; we didn’t have any leftovers and both of us cleaned our plates. Then again, neither of us our big eaters. I suspect some might leave hungry, although an order of salsa, guac, and chips would likely cure that.

Those who’ve traveled extensively in  Mexico or savored authentic Cal-Mex in southern California won’t find the heat or punch of those locales, but Sunfire is a bright spot for Mexican in the state furthest from the inspiration.

 

 

 

 

 

Chef Jonathan Cartwright answers 5 questions

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Chef Jonathan Cartwright

Chef Jonathan Cartwright was at the White Barn Inn, then a Relais & Châteaux-member property, when I interviewed him in 2012. Now he’s at Caring Community Cuisine in Cape Porpoise.

Before joining the White Barn, Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef Jonathan Carter, a native of northern England, apprenticed at London’s Savoy Hotel and held positions at the Blantyre, Horned Dorset Primavera, and Hotel Bareiss. He was also the executive chef of Muse by Jonathan Cartwright at the White Barn’s sister property, the Vanderbilt Grace in Newport, R.I.

How do you describe your cuisine and the White Barn Inn dining experience?

The scene outside the back window of the White Barn Inn is as choreographed to the season as the dining experience. Hilary Nangle photo. We try to do regional American cuisine with European flair. We stay as local and regional as possible. We’re not making the dishes too wacky, we’re not fusing flavors. Flavors need to be there, complimenting each other, not complicating each other.

This is a great area to be in, with farming, foraging, and fishing. We have a wonderful product to work with. Chefs get all this credit for being superstars; truth is, you have to have great product to work with. If you cook it with love and care, you can’t go wrong. It really is that simple. You can’t make a silk purse out of a pig’s ear.

I think America is one of world leaders in the culinary field right now. American food is truly international now. My kids are Americans, born to German and English parents, and we’re not an unusual family, not even in this area.

Our audience is much better than it used to be, so much more educated. I say to waiters: You’re being paid good money; you’re there to explain the dish, give them your knowledge. When someone goes away and knows a bit more about the wine, grape varietal, the food, it’s above the dollar amount paid for food and wine. It’s free for them, and they can share the info at another dinner or party, and it makes them feel good about the knowledge.

America has moved on in dining habits and they understand what goes into the dining experience; it really does cost that much, we don’t facetiously make up a price. If you go to the supermarket, you see that good products are expensive. It takes hands-on hours of labor to make, grow, and raise animals humanely and organically. We start with a great product, so it’s a huge price tag to get in the door. For one dish at the White Barn, it’s not unusual for four or five people to have worked on its preparation and plating. We always say what’s value? We don’t want to sell you a Ferrari, and give you the keys for Ford Focus. If dining a la carte, you’d pay double for the quality level we do. We have a great service team, lovely restaurant ambiance, and valets. Most people say it was expensive but worth it.

We garner so much respect from Relais & Châteaux in North America, an organization founded on food and the premise that one can stop off, have a great meal, rest, relax, and then go back on their journey.

You’re an avid cyclist, are there comparisons with being a chef?

Cycling is a very good sport that complements cooking: It takes strength, stamina, endurance, mental willpower, and fighting spirit to want to win and get to the top. My dream as a little boy was to be first English person to win the Tour de France. To win, you need a team or you can’t take a day off, can’t take your eyes off the prize. You can have a great day and win the world championships, but the Tour de France takes three weeks; you can’t set off and win the prologue and think you’ve won the race. Accidents, sickness, crowd interference, and strikes have all played parts in the Tour de France’s history. Even on an off night has to be a brilliant night. We’re defending the yellow jersey in the mountains, maybe not feeling well, have to figure out how to drag up hill. People have to pull together in the kitchen even on bad days.

You change the menu weekly. How do you find inspiration for new dishes?

Everybody on my culinary team has the opportunity to create a dish to bring to me to taste and say: Chef, I’d like you consider putting this on the menu. It gets them to invest in what we’re doing. Even if we move people around in the kitchen, if they have it in mind as their dish—spearheaded it, came up with it—even though we tweaked it, they own it. Even when they move off that station, they come in to check that it’s done right. We take pictures of every dish so that the consistency is always there.

You recently participated in a cook-off with the lunch ladies at your children’s school. What was your takeaway?

I said to the lunch ladies: You’re struggling to make ends meet on budget; make eating part of the curriculum. Dining/eating, socializing over the dinner table is something a young child needs to know. How much business is done over a table in a restaurant? Everyone needs to know how to eat, how to order, and it’s best to start at a young age to learn to appreciate food and have an understanding of it. My daughter doesn’t want to go fishing, she doesn’t want to kill a fish, but she loves fish and chips. How far do you take it with a 9-year-old? If we need and catch the right-sized fish for the four of us, say a prayer, and do it responsibly, is it right?

If eating were truly made part of the curriculum, like phys. ed., more money would be budgeted, it would be better received, and kids would be better prepared out in the dog-eat-dog world of business lunches. It’s very confusing trying to look relaxed, trying to be natural at a cocktail party or over lunch, when you’ve been given the opportunity to help grow a company. I think if dining education started with school, life would be much easier for everyone and would create better success for the country.

What are some of your most memorable experiences as a chef?

I took my first job to buy new bike parts. I was miserable in my apprenticeship at a fine dining restaurant; I thought I hate this guy (he’s now a second father). One day, the sous chef and the junior sous chef were off, and the chef was left to do the evening service with just two apprentices. It could have been a night of Hell, but the chef didn’t take that attitude. He set up the whole kitchen singlehandedly, gave clear instructions, and set us up for success, not failure. He could have done it the other way and screamed at us all night long. He was amazing. It was at that point I realized that this is not the crazy world I thought it was. Everything clicked. Seeing how he led that day, just like a Tour de France leader. When the chips are down, he showed how to fix it and defend the jersey.

My first New Year’s Eve here, I was horrified. I left in tears. I would have lost my staff had I stayed. We charged a lot of money, and people came, ate, and left to go to a party. That’s unheard of in Europe, where people stay, dance, and have breakfast at 3 a.m. Here, the whole place was empty but for staff by midnight. I wasn’t going to go through another New Year’s Eve like that, so I decided to change what we do. Now, New Year’s Eve is amazing. There’s only one seating, and we charge a lot of money, but everyone ends up in the kitchen at 3 a.m.

 

5 Questions & a recipe: Chef Timothy Labonte, Eve’s at the Garden, Portland Harbor Hotel

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In May 2012, Executive Chef Timothy Labonte joined Eve’s at the Garden in the Portland Harbor Hotel. The Maine native is thrilled to be back in his home state and savor the goodness of the seasons. After chatting with him earlier this week, I dined at Eve’s. Chef had me at the pork belly, caviar, and lobster risotto amuse, then won me over with his version of a lobster roll: lobster mixed with crème fraîche and herbs and served in a popover shell along with a warm green curry sauce (recipe below). I was skeptical about this at first, but it was lovely, the sauce complemented the lobster beautifully. After that rich and delicious combo, I wasn’t able to finish the Atlantic catch seafood paella, but I sure tried.

What excites you about being back in Maine?

Chef Timothy Labonte aims to make Eve's at the Garden one of Portland's best restaurants. Hilary Nangle photo.I’ve had chef positions in Maine, so there are things I’ve used in past. There’s a Maine chef repertoire part of me just waiting to come back. I’m eager to work with Maine ingredients: Rhubarb, fiddleheads, mushrooms, sea urchins, Damariscotta oysters, fresh blueberries, garden-fresh tomatoes, strawberries, apples.

I’m working with a few farmers who deliver twice weekly, and I started making those connections as soon as I knew I had the position, before I actually started here. I couldn’t wait to work with this and that. I had a shopping list in my mind. You can get anything in Florida, but heirloom tomatoes just don’t taste the same.

And strawberries, I love them. All the chefs are just waiting, ready to pounce to be the first one to get them. I’m always pushing on a daily basis, even though they say it’ll be two more weeks. I keep pushing, so when they come in, they say give them to him, so he doesn’t bother us anymore.

Being fresh and local requires staying current with purveyors. I started picking my fish purveyor’s mind a month ago. I need to know what’s seasonal, how long I have to work with it.

Portland is very supportive community. I got a great contact for a lobsterman from another chef. Whenever I call the lobsterman, he’s on his boat, and because he’s on boat, it’s kind of exciting to call. Wouldn’t have had that connection if the other chef hadn’t provided it. There are a lot of restaurants in Portland, and that pushes every chef, every restaurateur, to do better.

How do you define your cuisine?

I can’t put a label on my personal cuisine. As a chef you have to stay open to all flavor elements and profiles throughout the world and have the ability to take those flavors in your mind’s palette and taste them with local ingredients, such as blueberries, fiddleheads, and lobster; that’s the key to staying current with trends.

Here at Eve’s we’re more Mediterranean in flavors. People hear the word Mediterranean and think Italy and Greece, but it’s so much broader than that. When I looked at the list of Mediterranean countries, I was dumbfounded. It’s so much fun, never ending; there are no limitations.

Being a chef in a hotel means you have to have broad appeal, what are the challenges and what are you trying to achieve at Eve’s

I’ve been in hotels and restaurants for better side of five years. Every position I’ve had, people had a tendency to stay away because of the mindset that hotels only cater to their guests. That’s not the case. I want to achieve a certain level that other chefs have achieved in a short period of time. Portland has a lot of phenomenal restaurants. There’s a lot of good food going on, so diners are able to be opinionated.  I want Eve’s to be on the top tier of restaurants in Portland.

For those guests who just want steak and potatoes, I run a kitchen where we believe in yes; there’s no such thing as no. If it’s not on the menu, we’ll try to make what they want. I don’t like to bring out the A-1 sauce, but if it makes them happy, we’ll serve it in a nice little ramekin.

What are your specialties, any signature dish?

We going to be looking at changing the menu in the next couple of weeks, and we’ve decided to go with seasonal approach, changing it four times a year, which is again a rarity for hotels. There are probably a few items that have earned a spot on the menu. I think the Atlantic catch paella is a great dish, and we’re using local seafood. It’s served in cast iron skillet, which creates rustic with elegant dynamic with the dining room. Our filet mignon, served with truffle tahini, garbanzo fries, and garlic honey aioli dipping sauce is another one of those dishes people love. Those two would be the most likely to stay on the menu. They’re fitting and can stand the test of time and change of seasons.

What’s the process for creating new menus and special ones, such as the upcoming Harvest Caviar Dinner?

It’s the same for any menu development here. When we’re ready to roll with a new dinner menu, we conceive it on paper, and then Gerard (hotel manager Gerard Kiladjian) invites a few diners and I present the dishes, make notes, tweak, and then it goes to print.

I prepared the caviar dinner menu just thinking of ideas I felt would got well with caviar, even before I met with Rod Mitchell (of Browne Trading Co.). Then he made notes on caviars, we paired the foods with caviars, and then paired it with wine. Originally, we had pork belly panini, but they felt it was too overpowering for caviar, so we changed it up to a lobster panini, but that was the only major change. That’s why we do tastings.

On the caviar menu, I’m really partial to the scrambled egg roll. I scramble the eggs until they’re light and fluffy, add herbs, then chop them, roll in egg roll wrappers, and fry them. They’re served with sea urchin hollandaise, served in the urchin shell, as a dipping sauce.

The Caviar Dinner, Friday, Oct. 26, 2012, includes a champagne and caviar reception and four-course tapas- style with wine pairings, including tax and gratuity, is schedule; $120 pp. Both caviar guru Rod Mitchell and sommelier Erica Archer of Wine Wise will be on hand to help educate dinners.

NOTE: Eve’s at the Garden is open to the public for breakfast, lunch, happy hour, and dinner daily and also serves a lounge menu.

 

Chef Timothy Labonte’s Lobster Popover /Thyme Dressing / Lobster Curry

4 servings

For the Popovers:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup warm milk
2 eggs
Pinch salt and pepper

1. In a mixer whip eggs until double in volume.

2. To the eggs, mix in the warm milk followed by the flour.  Strain mix of any lumps that may have accumulated, add a pinch of salt and pepper.

3. Pour batter into 4 wells of popover pan; a bit more than ¾ full.

4. Bake @ 400 for 20-25 minutes or until fully risen to double in size and golden brown.

Note:  Poke a small hole in the popover top as it comes from the oven to allow steam to vent out, this will help it retain its structure.

For the Lobster Salad:

1 # Fresh Maine Lobster meat cut into generous size pieces

2 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped
2 oz. crème fraiche
Juice of ½ lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Mix together all ingredients, refrigerate until serving

For the Curry:

1 cup rich lobster or shellfish stock
½ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp traditional roux
1 oz. pickled ginger
1tsp. green curry paste

1. In a saucepan add cream, stock, ginger and curry paste, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.  Add roux to mix and continue to simmer for 10 minutes stirring occasionally.

2. Add curry sauce to a blender and blend until smooth and velvety.

Note: Be extremely careful when mixing hot ingredients in a blender; start at very low speed and work your way up to avoid splatter.  Feel free to use a food processor in lieu of a blender.

Assemble:

1. Split popover in half lengthwise leaving a bit still attached to work as a hinge rather than having two halves.

2. Place bib lettuce and lobster inside of popover, serve with a lemon wedge and a side of curry sauce to enhance you popover as you wish.

May your life and stomach always be full.

—Timothy Labonte

Three books share Maine’s great outdoors with enthuisasts and armchair dreamers

Ahhhh, October, summer’s last stand. I treasure October: the light is soft, the air is gentle, the breezes are clear, and the bugs are gone, as are many of the summahfolk. It’s the perfect time to get outdoors in Maine. Here are three new books that will help you do just that: the new edition of the comprehensive AMC’s Maine Mountain Guide, compiled and edited by Carey Kish; Mr. Rockefeller’s Roads, by Ann Rockefeller Roberts; and Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens: A People’s Garden, by William Culina, Dorothy E. Freeman, and Barbara Hill Freeman.

Maine Mountain Guide

Intrepid Maine-based hiker Carey Kish took on one heckuva assignment in updating the 10th anniversary edition of this Appalachian  Mountain Club’s tome, a bible for hikers in Maine. Readers of his hiking column in the Portland Papers followed in his footsteps as he climbed peaks throughout the state. This nearly 400-page book shares his wisdom, and guides hikers of all abilities to trails best suited for them, from an easy 25-minute jaunt up Jockey Cap (where the views far exceed the effort) to the Big Kahoona, Katahdin. Accompanying the book are two maps. Once covers Baxter State Park—Katahdin and the 100-Mile Wilderness; the other Bigelow Range, Camden Hills, Eastern Mount Desert Island, Mahoosuc Range, and Evans Notch. Carey’s promised a guest post about hiking in Maine, so stay tuned.

Mr. Rockefeller’s Roads

Ann Rockefeller Roberts penned this ode to the Acadia National Park carriage roads created by her grandfather John D. Rockefeller Jr. In this second edition (updated from the original 1990 one), she shares the story behind the roads, detailing their history, along with anecdotes. New in this edition is a chapter, written by Ed Winterberg, prior director of Wildwood Stables, with former park superintendent Jack Hauptman, covering the restoration of the roads from 1987 to 2006. While the first edition was amply illustrated with historical photos and artwork, this one adds color photographs taken by Robert’s daughter Mary Louise Pierson. This isn’t a guidebook but a fascinating and indepth study of the carriage roads, full of tidbits to engage those who have lingered by one of the stone bridges and pondered its heritage or savored the views while walking or riding. Until reading this, I didn’t know that renowned landscape architect Beatrix Farrand had a hand in the plantings that edge the roads. These roads are a gift that keeps giving.

 Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens: A People’s Garden

In the five years since its June 2007 opening, the magical Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay have earned must-visit status and national recognition. This hardcover, full-color book by executive director William Cullina, director of philanthropy Dorothy E. Freeman, PhD, and communications director Barbara Hill Freeman, makes it possible to visit the garden’s splendor without leaving your armchair. Chapters cover the  20-year history, as well as each of the unique gardens. It’s a delightful book that could have been stellar. Such a color-rich book, with images by some of Maine’s most talented photographers (including Lynn Karlin and Robert Mitchell) deserved a higher quality printing. Still, it’s an inspiration for aspiring gardeners everywhere and a promise worth settling down with during winter.

 

Musical notes from around Maine: Strand concert series and PSO’s new season

Here are some upcoming concerts and musical events in Maine worth your attention.

Suzanne Vega and Arlo Guthrie Headline the Strand Fall Concert Series

Check out the lineup for the Strand Theatre’s fall concert series in Rockland, and purchase tix before they disappear.

  • Ben Taylor: Sat. Oct. 6, 7:30 p.m., $15 in advance, $18 day of show
  • Suzanne Vega: Fri. Oct. 12, 8 p.m., $34
  • Peter Wolf: Fri. Oct. 26, 8 p.m., $3
  • Mary Black: Friday, Nov. 9, 7:30 p.m., $45
  • • Arlo Guthrie: Wed. Nov. 14, 7:30 p.m., $50
Portland Symphony Orchestra 2012-13 seasons ranges from classical to contemporary, with new community events

The Portland Symphony Orchestra kicks off its 84th season on Sun., Oct. 7, at Merrill Auditorium in Portland City Hall.

The Tuesday and Sunday Classical concerts will showcase some of the best in classical works with cornerstones of orchestral literature including Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5, Mozart’s Violin Concerto No. 3 and Mozart’s Symphony No. 39. The season will conclude with a tribute to Mahler and a performance of his intense Symphony No. 5.

The PSO Pops! season includes a new show from Music Director Robert Moody inspired by Puccini’s opera La Bohème, a program highlighting American music of the 1920’s, 30’s, and 40’s, a concert featuring great film music, and a salute to the pop music of the 1980’s.

“From the opening concert featuring the stirring chords of the Fanfare for the Common Man, and my good friend Mason Bates’ piece Mothership, to the closing concert featuring one of the most moving and powerful symphonies in the repertory, Mahler’s 5th, this season in particular reaches a really interesting range of works that I’m excited to share with our audience,” says PSO Music Director Robert Moody.

New this year are two community events, a Music Lovers’ Luncheon Series and the Cello-bration Cello Choir. The luncheon series at the Cumberland club begins Thurs., Oct. 4, at noon, with PSO Music Director Robert Moody and a guest artist discussing the programming of Mason Bates, Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, and Aaron Copland. The PSO will perform selections by the three composers at its opening concerts. Fee is $25 and reservations are required.

Other luncheons are planned on Jan. 25, when PSO Concertmaster Charles Dimmick and Flautist Rachel Braude will discuss the Jan. 27 “Happy Birthday Mozart!” concert, and on April 12, when Moody and guest saxophonist Ben Robinette will discuss the April 14 “Mathis der Maler” concert.

The Cello-bration Cello Choir is open to cellists of all ages and levels. Participating is free, but registration is required by Fri., Oct. 5. The choir will perform with PSO cellists at Merrill Auditorium on Sun., Oct. 21, after a morning rehearsal. The free, afternoon concert begins at 1 p.m.  The program is a lead-in to the PSO’s Cello-bration on Tues., Oct. 30, when the Classical Concert’s program will showcase the cello.

 

September in Maine: Maine Open Lighthouse Day

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I love September in Maine. The weather is gentle, the light is soft, the air is clear, and autumn is staging its annual fiery flash dance. Even better, it’s the height of fair season (my favorite is the Common Ground Fair). Equally fun:

Light up your life at Maine Open Lighthouse Day: Sept. 15, 2012, statewide

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.Lighthouses along the Maine coast will be open for guided or self-guided tours of the towers and/or keeper’s houses on Saturday, Sept. 15. Most will be open  9 a.m. to 3 p.m; some l will have limited accessibility or special restrictions. Here’s more information, including how to access the offshore lights.

The event website, www.lighthouseday.com,Here’s a list of participating beacons.

Brown’s Head Lighthouse, Vinalhaven Island: Light tower only.

Burnt Coat Harbor Lighthouse, Swan’s Island: Light tower and keeper’s house.

Burnt Island Lighthouse, off Boothbay Harbor: Light tower and keeper’s house (Living-history museum inside).

Curtis Island Lighthouse, entrance to Camden Harbor: Light tower only.

Doubling Point Lighthouse, Arrowsic: Light tower only.

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.Dyce Head Lighthouse, Castine: Light tower only.

Fort Point Lighthouse, Cape Jellison near Stockton Springs: Light tower and bell tower (exhibits inside).

Grindle Point Lighthouse, Islesboro: Light tower and keeper’s house (museum inside).

Kennebec River Range Lights (two towers),  Arrowsic: Front and Rear Range light towers only.

Little River Lighthouse, entrance to Cutler Harbor, 9 a.m. to noon. Live music at the site. Light tower, boathouse and keeper’s house (furnished for overnight stays).

Marshall Point Lighthouse: Port Clyde: Light tower and keeper’s house (Museum inside)

Monhegan Island Lighthouse, Monhegan Island, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m: Light tower and keeper’s house (museum inside).

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.Owls Head Lighthouse, Owls Head: Light tower only.

Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, Bristol Light tower and keeper’s house (museum inside).

Portland Breakwater Lighthouse (Bug Light), South Portland: Light tower only.

Portland Head Lighthouse, Cape Elizabeth: Light tower and keeper’s house (museum inside). Note: On Open Lighthouse Day, approximately 300 tickets will be made available to visitors on a first-come-first-served basis. A ticket will be required to climb the tower. You must be at least 48 inches tall to climb the tower. Visitors must be able to climb 85+ steps unassisted.

Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse, Rockland: Light tower and keeper’s house.

Seguin Island Lighthouse, off Popham Beach (offshore): Light tower and keeper’s house (furnished for overnight member stays).

Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse, South Portland: Light tower.

Visit lighthouses along Maine's coast on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. Hilary Nangle photo.West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, Lubec: Light tower (contains a Fresnel lens) and keeper’s house (museum inside).

Whitehead Lighthouse, entrance to Penobscot Bay, Whitehead Island: Light tower only.

Wood Island Lighthouse, Biddeford Pool: Light tower and keeper’s house.

And of course, don’t miss the Maine Lighthouse Museum in Rockland.

The annual event, coordinated by the U.S. Coast Guard, in partnership with the Maine Office of Tourism and the American Lighthouse Foundation, is the largest event of its kind in the country.