Thanksgiving guest post: Thankfulness, humility, and a Maine coastal island

When this article by Rex Turner, Outdoor Recreation Planner for the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, popped into my inbox, I knew I had to share it with those who love Maine and especially those who love Maine’s outdoors. Read on:

Humility is part of thankfulness. To say “thank you” is to acknowledge that you need others to survive in what can be a challenging world.  Perhaps this is why I have a special place in my heart for the late fall season and the time of Thanksgiving, when we turn our thoughts to appreciating what we have been given.

In addition to being a time of pumpkin pie, turkey and gravy, and deer hunting, the late fall is a season when the winds turn cold and ice makes its way back into our world, whether as a heavy coating on dying grass blades or a skim on calm waters.  The cold, and all the harshness it brings, is, like thankfulness, intertwined with humility.  Nature has a way of clarifying who is in charge when the skies grow gray, the mercury plummets, and a chill sinks into your bones. Nowhere is this clearer than in the wild, exposed places.

Give pause to give thanks for having the choice to come indoors after exploring Maine outside in winter. Courtesy Rex Turner, Maien Bureau Parks and LAnds It’s no surprise that mountain tops, exposed shores, and expansive bogs have a great capacity to humble you, especially when the summer gives way to its less-welcoming neighbors, fall and winter. These places may be stunningly beautiful, but they also are rough places for both visitors and residents alike.

As a visitor to places such as the alpine ridge atop Mount Abraham, the coastal headlands at Quoddy Head State Park, one of the many islands on the Maine Island Trail, or the remote Number Five Bog adjacent to the Moose River Bow canoe trip, you can experience that you are part of an amazing world, but that the world is not here just to make you comfy and warm.  For “permanent residents,” like the stunted mountain spruce able to grow small limbs only to the leeward side of their stems, or tough-leafed bog plants making due in acidic soils separated completely from nutrients and groundwater,  these places are challenges that deter the vast majority of their fellow plants, let alone animals.

I feel very fortunate, very thankful, to have the opportunity to visit these wild places. They help sustain me spiritually. And though I’ve had this thankfulness for a long time, one recent event put a new spin on all I have to be thankful for.

I was contacted by the Maine Island Trail Association (MITA), a group I work with rather regularly on trail management, regarding a man who they had discovered was on a trail island and was well beyond the stay limit. MITA and my bureau, the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, had both winterized all their boats. With no quick means of accessing the man, who reportedly had stated he intended to stay on the island indefinitely, I turned to the Maine Marine Patrol.

With great professionalism, the Marine Patrol quickly assisted and determined that the man was a homeless veteran with few resources or family to help him out.  With some quick phone calls and scurrying, we seemed to find some assistance for the man as the Marine Patrol delivered him back to the mainland.

While I never met that homeless veteran, the small incident keeps cycling in my consciousness.  I’ve slept on rocks; I’ve had icicles hanging from my eyebrows; I’ve heard trees groaning and creaking at night as the sub-zero cold settles in; I’ve waded through deep, dank bogs till my feet wrinkled as if I had soaked too long in a bathtub..

Every time, though, it has been my choice or perhaps part of a day’s work.  I’m typically dressed in Gore-Tex or other technical fabrics, and I tend to have good gear – after all, this is my recreational passion. Never do I recall being cold, hungry, tired, or in danger because I did not have the resources to feed and clothe myself.  I say that not to boast or disparage those less fortunate, but to give thanks.

Like most people nowadays, I see those who I assume do not have a home.  I see those who make me wonder if they get enough to eat. It took this man on an island in Maine, however, to give me pause when I visit the wonderful wild places I seek. I’m quite sure the next time I feel the bite of ice particles blowing horizontally across a ridge top or feel the wet cold of the Atlantic spraying off rocky headlands, I will remember that I choose to face the cold and wet. I give thanks for that choice.  I cherish the opportunity to be humbled by nature, but I now better appreciate that not all people have such a luxury.

I really hesitate to preach – and I hope I’m not – but it seems to me this is yet another reason for folks to venture forth into wild nature, whether in your backyard or a huge piece of conservation land, and to appreciate not only the wildness but also your ability to return with your memories to a warm home and a hot meal.  Not all share this opportunity.

Tasting Maine: Favorite food finds from the Acadia region

I spent the better part of the past five months noodling the highways and byways of Maine’s Acadia region researching a new edition of my Moon Acadia National Park book for spring 2012 publication. As I noodled, I nibbled, and I wanted to share some of the must-have Maine-made foods that left me craving more. Many are available via online order, so if you can’t get to the source, you can still get the goods.

Lucy's Granola is delicios and not overly sweet. It's hand mixed in Blue HIll Maine by Lucy Benjamin and her family. Lucy’s Granola: Yes, I know, granola makers are everywhere in Maine, but Lucy’s won me over. It’s hand mixed in Blue Hill by Brit-born Lucy Benjamin, assisted by her three kids, husband, and some local helpers. She earns points for make her granolas with whole grains and unprocessed ingredients; sourcing her ingredients locally whenever possible; and using recycled materials for her shipped packages. But that’s secondary to the flavor. I find too many granolas are overly sweet or dominated by the flavor of one ingredient. Not so Lucy’s. Three flavors are available: Original, Extra Seedy, and Gluten Free, and she’ll also make custom mixes.

Tinder Hearth is renowned for its fresh breads, but it also hosts Open Mic nights. Hilary Nangle photo.Tinder Hearth Bakery breads: Tim Semler, Lydia Moffet, and crew make the most fabulous breads in a rural farmhouse in Brooksville. Sure, you can purchase the loaves at local farmers markets and local stores, but looping out to the farm is an experience in itself. The European-style breads, handcrafted from organic flour (whole grain from Aroostook County, Maine, white from Quebec) and made from a sourdough starter, are baked in a hand-built, wood-fired oven. They’re crusty, fire-burnished, dense, and chewy. Flavors include a French batard made from white flour, as well as whole spelt, Maine grain, and rye. It’s a self-service, honor-bar-style operation. Go early for the best choices, whether that be to the farm or a market.

Buck’s Harbor Market spreads: With a name like Artichoke-Parmesan-Truffle spread, how could I not purchase it? It combined three flavor that I find irresistible. Chef Jonathan Chase, who operates the market and the cafe out back (and co-wrote the wonderful Saltwater Seasonings cookbook highlighting local purveyors way back in 1992), is the genius behind this cream cheese-based spread. The flavor is strong, so a little bit goes a long way. While freezing isn’t recommended, I’ve found it keeps quite well in the fridge, as the packaging is air tight. My favorite use so far? On homemade pizza…swoon worthy!

Nervous Nellies Jams and Jellies, on Deer Isle, Maine, makes delicious products. Hilary Nangle photo.Nervous Nellie’s Jams and Jellies: Who doesn’t enjoy a good jam or jelly, chutney or marmalade? These are beyond good, especially the Sunshine Road Marmalade, a rough-cut marmalade made with navel oranges, lemons, and pink grapefruit (named after Nervous Nellie’s location on the Sunshine Road, in Deer Isle). Of course Nervous Nellie’s makes Wild Maine Blueberry Preserves, but it also makes a sibling product with a twist, Blueberry Ginger Conserve, made with wild Maine blueberries, peaches, cane sugar, fruit pectin, ginger, and organic lemon juice. Years ago, Nervous Nellie’s supplied some of the country’s top specialty food markets. It was growing too fast. Instead of expanding and enlarging, they opted to downsize their wholesale operation and concentrate on mail order and onsite purchases, instead. I’ve previously written about what a treat Nervous Nellie’s is. Go if you can. If not, order online. You won’t be disappointed.

When in Ellsworth, seek out Maine Needhams; better yet, mail-order them. Maine Needhams photoMaine Needhams: It was love at first bite when I tasted a Maine Needham left as a welcome treat in my room at a former inn in Prospect Harbor. Needhams are a traditional Maine candy made with mashed potatoes and shredded coconut enrobed in dark chocolate. According to legend, they originated in Portland in 1872, and were named after local evangelical preacher George S. Needham. Heavenly treat in hand, I ran to innkeeper Megan Moshier and demanded to know where she found it. Turns out, Ellsworth. Owners Debbie and Timothy Jones cut and dip every piece by hand, using a recipe they developed and refuse to share with anyone, even their own kids! Because they refuse to use preservatives, they don’t produce their Maine Needhams during the summer months. Maine Needhams are available in the original flavor, as well as in blueberry, maple, raspberry, almond, and mint. I’ve only had the original; can’t see how it can be improved. You can order online.

Smith Family Farm dairy products are made on Mount Dessert Island but widely available in Maine.Smith Family Farm yogurt: This small farm in Bar Harbor, on Mount Desert Island, is no secret. Martha Stewart has been singing its praises for years, and its wonderful, organic dairy products are widely available in the state. I’m passionate about the yogurt, first introduced to me at the Ullikana Bed & Breakfast, in Bar Harbor. I use it in place of milk when making muffins and biscuits, drizzle it in soups, and pair it with Lucy’s Granola for breakfast.

NExt time you're visiting the Schoodic Peninsula, sample Grindstone Neck of Maine smoked blue cheeseGrindstone Neck of Maine smoked blue cheese: Grindstone Neck is best known for its smoked seafoods—salmon, shellfish, finfish—but it also smokes a blue cheese. If you love smoked foods and you love blue cheese, this is a perfect marriage. I had my first nibble at Fisherman’s Inn, the Johnson family-owned restaurant in Winter Harbor, on Maine’s Schoodic Peninsula. The cheese is rich, creamy and has bite and zing. A little bit goes a long, long way. I like it on salads and burgers, and I’m thinking of experimenting with in a few soups. It’s available at the store in Winter Harbor or via online order (and don’t miss the other tasty products and samplers).

 

 

 

 

 

Maine’s South Solon Meeting House: Wow!

 

south Solon Meeting House
The exterior of the South Solon Meeting House gives no hint as to the riches inside. ©Hilary Nangle photo

Open the door to Maine’s South Solon Meeting House and Wow! Neither the classically influenced colonial, white-clapboard architecture nor the serene location on a rural crossroads hint about what’s inside.

Built in 1842, and now listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the South Solon Meeting House retains its original podium, box pews, choir loft, windows, and steeple. But, inside it’s been completely frescoed, floor to ceiling, with interdenominational religious scenes.

view from the choir loft
Panoramic view from the choir loft inside the South Solon Meeting House in south Solon, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

A visual awakening

Juried artists frescoed the scenes on the South Solon Meeting House walls and celing in the mid 1950s. Tom Nangle photo
The Last Supper is just one of the scenes frescoed on the meeting house walls . ©Tom Nangle

The first time I visited, I walked around gape-mouthed, trying to make sense of the jarring disconnect between prim exterior and racy interior, primitive design and contemporary decor, all while taking in the equally disconnected scenes vying for attention.

I didn’t know where to look first: The Last Supper, a parade of angelic musicians, shepherds, fishermen, church-going families. Walls, ceiling, choir loft, entry, every available space preached.

But, why?

Let’s start at the beginning. The open-minded founders of the South Solon Meeting House stipulated: “the house [be] opened freely on weekdays, when requested, for conference meetings and for lectures and addresses on all religious benevolent, moral and scientific subjects.” So, the building never was purely a house of God.

It's hard to know where to look first, when entering . Hilary Nangle photo
Primitive pews are juxtaposed against contemporary frescoes inside the South Solon Meeting House. © Hilary Nangle

Salvation: Imagination & interpretation

As with many such buildings, it deteriorated over the years. In the 1930s, Helen and Williard Cummings of Skowhegan lead a community effort to save it.

In 1946, Willard, a portrait artist, together with Henry Varnum Poor and Sidney Simon, founded the nearby Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture, a summer artist residency program that specialized in frescoes (and still does).

It’s certainly thought provoking, and it invites lingering a little longer, if not in contemplative prayer than in wide-eyed wonder.

Artists were encouraged to take inspiration from the Old and New Testament, but there were no rules on what was to be depicted in the scenes frescoed on the walls of Maine's South Solon Meeting House. Tom Nangle photo/
Detail from one of the frescoes . ©Tom Nangle

In the 1950s, student Margaret Day Blake took a shine to the meeting house. With the school’s support, she offered 13 fellowships to young, professional artists, selected from three national juried competitions, to paint the interior.

The winners: Sigmund Abeles, Alfred Blaustein, Edwin Brooks, Ashley Bryan, Williard Cummings, Sidney Hurwitz, William King, Tom Mikkelson, Anne Poor, Henry Varnum Poor, Judith Shuman, Sidney Simon and John Wallace.

The only instruction provided to these artists:

There shall be no limitation of subject matter; however, bearing in mind the religious character of the building, which has been non-sectarian from its inception, it’s suggested that the New and Old Testaments offer rich and suitable subject matter. This material should be interpreted in imaginative terms which allow complete freedom to develop symbols, associations, or legends.

The dizzying riot of color and art followed.

Walk all around the meeting house to view all the frescoes from different angles. Hilary Nangle photo
Mural on the back wall. ©Hilary Nangle

Securing the future of the South Solon Meeting House

Now some people might think the result isn’t proper for a meeting house, but I believe the founders of the South Solon Meeting House would have approved of this odd juxtaposition of color and image on their colonial building. It’s certainly thought provoking, and it invites lingering a little longer, if not in contemplative prayer than in wide-eyed wonder.

Since 1956, The South Solon Historical Society has cared for the meeting house. Preservation and maintenance is an ongoing struggle. While the Board seeks to further promote use of the building for cultural events and community life, the most pressing concern at this time is the need to repair the damage and deterioration wrought by the passage of time and weather, and create an endowment for future maintenance.

When you visit, leave a donation to help preserve this building and its frescoes for future generations.

The meeting house is located on the corner of the South Solon and Meetinghouse Roads, north of Route 43 and east of Route 201.

And a few more images…

Inside the south solon meeting house
One of the murals frescoed on the meeting house walls. ©Hilary Nangle
The ceiling, walls, choir loft, and entry
Painters from the nearby Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture have frescoed every wall and even the ceiling of the meeting house. ©Hilary Nangle

 

Save money by skiing & snowboarding at Maine’s family-sized alpine areas

Maine’s big resorts get most of the attention, but for young families or anyone on a budget, smaller areas provide not only a fun experience, but also a good value. Perhaps the vertical isn’t as grand, but really, how often do you ski 2,000 feet without stopping? All of these little guys have night skiing, most have tubing parks, and some have Nordic trails, too. If you’re searching for areas with soul, for friendly faces, and places where kids matter, try these un-resorts.

Lost Valley is in Auburn, Maine.Lost Valley is a vest-pocket ski area secreted in the barely rolling countryside outside Auburn, Maine. Don’t be deceived by the hill’s diminutive size. Although the vertical drop is only 240 feet, it was enough to produce four Olympians: Karl Anderson and Anna, Julie, and Rob Parisien. This is an especially family-friendly area; the base lodge doubles as the local baby-sitting service–parents just naturally watch out for one another’s kids. According to Julie Parisien, who grew up skiing here, you may be able to make only 10 turns from top to bottom, but that’s 10 good turns. And that’s what matters.

Views from Shawnee Peak in Bridgton, Maine, overlook lakes and out to Mount WAshington. Shawnee Peak imageMaine’s oldest ski area is Pleasant Mountain, an especially popular destination given its proximity to Portland (45 miles). I have a soft spot for the area where I spent my youth–bring your family, and you’ll likely understand why. The setting is rural, and the mountain appears to rise out of Moose Pond. The views, which take in Mt. Washington and the Presidential Range of the White Mountains, are calming, almost inspirational. It’s one of the largest night-skiing facility, acreage-wise, in New England. Arrive at night, and you’ll notice that the trails spell out the word LOV in 1960s-block-style lettering. The mountain skis bigger than its 1,300-foot vertical indicates, as it has two faces, with open slopes on one and squiggly trails ribboning the other.

Mount Abram is a family pleasing Maine alpine area.For anyone weak in the wallet or overawed by megaresorts, Mt. Abram is the solution. This longtime family favorite is something of a sleeper. Most folks drive right by on their way to glitzy Sunday River, just up the road. A savvy few turn off Route 26 in Locke Mills, drawn by this resort’s commitment to family skiing and a decent 1,150-foot vertical. The segregated learning area, tubing park, night lights, cross-country loop, low-key atmosphere, and lack of crowds make it a real gem.

Another great Maine family area is Black Mountain of Maine, near Rumford.A real success story is Black Mountain of Maine, where prices are low and spirit is high. It’s owned and operated by the Maine Winter Sports Center, which is committed to reestablishing skiing as part of the local lifestyle. MWSC has invested heavily in the 1,150-foot vertical hill, putting in new lifts, cutting new trails, adding snowmaking and night skiing, and making it smoke free. Another plus is the Nordic trail system, designed by two-time Olympian Chummy Broomhall.

The Farmington Ski Club operates Titcomb Mountain Ski Area, an all-volunteer operation with a modest 340-foot vertical. It’s the hill where two-time Olympic gold medalist Seth Wescott played as a youth. In addition to the alpine terrain, there are nine miles of groomed trails for cross-countryskiing and snowboarding (a potential solution for mixed marriages or partnerships). The operating schedule coincides with school hours, so it’s open late afternoon and evenings, weekends, and daily during vacation weeks. Yes, it’s a club, but nonmembers are welcomed.

Camden Snow Bowl, in Camden Maine, may be small, but it offers big views. Camden SNow Bowl imageWhen a Nor’easter roars up the East Coast, the place to be is Camden Snow Bowl, in coastal Camden, a town better known among yachtsmen than skiers. The reward for riding the pokey chair or creaky T-bars a is cruising down nautically named trails that ebb and flow down Ragged Mountain’s 950-foot vertical and deliver glimpses of island-salted Penobscot Bay. The town-owned four-season recreation area has alpine trails, night skiing and riding, a tubing park, Nordic trail,  ice skating on Hosmer Pond, and a 400-foot toboggan chute that’s home to the annual National Toboggan Championships, held during the first weekend of February. The area exists in a time warp, with a vintage A-frame base lodge and retro food and ticket prices. All that, however, will change. A $6.5 million redevelopment plan includes a new four-season lodge, improved road and trail access, parking, new lifts, an expanded beginner area, and additional snow making.

Teach little ones to ski at Baker Mountain, a nonprofit community ski hill in Moscow, Maine. Courtesy imageAt a friend’s suggestion, I’m adding Baker Mountain, in Moscow, to the list. It’s small, an open slope with five runs serviced by a T-bar, but it’s a non-profit community love fest. One of Maine’s older ski areas, dating from 1937, it’s now operated by its passholders, members of the Baker Mountain Ski Tow Club, which owns it. Baker operates on weekends and during February school breaks, and it even has night skiing and a vacation week ski school. Tickets are dirt cheap, smiles are huge. If you’re searching of skiing the way it used to be, Baker is the place for you.

Dean’sSweets & Fox Family Potato Chips: New chocolate bars marry two of Maine’s best

Brandied orange, mocha latte, and Maine potato chip are all chocolate bar flavors from Dean'sSweets, in Portland. Courtesy photoChocolate-maker Dean Bingham, of Dean’sSweets, has found inspiration in the bar—the chocolate bar. The Portland, Maine, chocolatier has introduced three chocolate bars to his line of handmade truffles and caramels. Not just any chocolate bars, mind you, but three in intriguing flavors: Maine potato chip, brandied orange peel, and mocha latte.

The brandied orange peel is a dark chocolate stunner, and the mocha latte flavor comprises crunchy espresso beans in a double layer of white and dark chocolate. But the Maine potato chip flavor is the one that’s a match made in Maine-made foodie heaven. Dean uses Fox Family Potato Chips, from Aroostook County—I’m  huge fan of Fox Family chips; best I’ve ever tasted. He enrobes these perfect Maine potato chips in milk chocolate. (Egad! milk! Dean,  I’m begging you to make this one in dark, too).

Dean’s is in the East End foodiehood, the Middle Street block shared by Hugo’s, Rabelais, Pepperclub/Good Egg, Duck Fat, Ribollita, and East Ender, and bookeneded by Micucci’s, Two Cats, Amato’s, and Coffee By Design.

 

Your maven is on deadline with a book…

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… which is why she hasn’t been posting regularly. Scrambling to make deadline on a new edition of Moon Acadia National Park. In the meantime, I am attempting to share event news via Facebook. I’ll be back soon, consider that both a threat and a promise. I have plenty to share.

In the meantime, thank you for your patience. AND, should you want a copy of the current edition of Moon ANP, have I got a deal for you! Signed, sealed, delivered along with the promise of email consultation when you’re planning your trip. Interested? Contact me through this site (see envelope icon at right, below my mug shot).

Desserted: Black Dinah Chocolatier Kate Shaffer shares techniques, recipes, and tales from her Isle au Haut, Maine, kitchen

chocolate never tasted so good as that created by Kate Shaffer of Black Dinah Chocolatiers on Isle au Haut and shared in her new cookbook Desserted.Life doesn’t get much sweeter than creating a successful gourmet chocolate business on  a Maine island that’s home to a remote section of Acadia National Park, and that’s what Kate and Steve Shaffer have done with Black Dinah Chocolatiers on Isle au Haut. And now, Kate is sharing the secrets of her success, along with the charms of island life, in her cookbook Desserted: Recipes and Tales from an Island Chocolatier

Kate and Steve never imagined living on a remote island off the Maine coast, but after marrying in 1999, the couple, who met in a California commune, packed their low-impact lives into a 20-foot RV and headed for the Pine Tree State.Their introduction to island life began when Kate took a job cooking at the former Keeper’s House, a lighthouse B&B on Isle au Haut.

Until opening a separate commercial kitchen on their property in 2011, Kate and Steve Shaffer operated Black Dinah out of their home kitchen on Isle au Haut. “Maine was certainly never a place I had considered living, and certainly not an island,” Kate says. “Nor did I ever imagine I’d be making chocolate for a living, it never once crossed my mind.” But when the inn closed, they combined Steve’s business savvy with Kate’s long-standing yearning to work with chocolate, and opened Black Dinah Chocolatiers, an Internet cafe and truffle-making company, naming it for the local landmark behind their home.

Desserted is a must for chocoholics and island-dreamers. As the title promises, Kate weaves tales of island life in with her recipes, which range from her signature truffles to savory preparations. The book opens with a Foreward by Isle au Haut fisherman and author Linda Greenlaw, then after Kate tells her story, it progresses into all chocolate, all the time, beginning with Chocolate 101. That detailed primer is alone worth its weight in chocolate gold.

Black Dinah Chocolatier Kate Shaffer shares tips and recipes in Desserted. Steve Shaffer photoKate learned from experience that “anyone can work successfully with chocolate using very common tools in a small home kitchen.” That said, she does recommend a few tools, including a few surprises, such as a drywall spatula and a hair dryer.

Recipes are divided into chapters titled: Truffles; Chocolate for Breakfast; Tarts, Pies, and Cakes; Cookies and Sweet Snacks; Ice Cream, Sorbets, and Puddings; and A Few Savories. Two things I love about her recipes (other than they’re all for chocolate) is her use of real ingredients: eggs, butter, cream, milk are constants, and her preference for natural ingredients; in addition to sugar, sweeteners might include honey or molasses.

I’ve included two recipes from the book. For other recipes as well as more on island life, read Kate’s blog. You might also enjoy a short article I wrote for Islands. And here’s a post on Isle au Haut.

 

Flourless Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Blondies

One day, in an effort to come up with a recipe for an energy bar that I could actually choke down, I accidentally came up with this. Not exactly what I was going for, but each day found me more in love with them than the last. Despite the absence of flour, the bars have a super-tender, cakey texture that seems to be just barely holding on to each melty bit of chocolate. And as far as energy? Well, or now, they get me where I want to go. Makes 16.

1 cup natural peanut butter
¼ cup raw honey
1 large egg, at room temperature
½ cup sweet potato puree, or 1 banana mashed
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and line an 8” by 8” square baking pan with parchment paper.

Place the peanut butter, honey, egg, sweet potato puree, baking soda, and salt in a food processor and whir together until smooth.

Remove the blade, stir in the chips, and then scrape the mixture into the prepared pan.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the pan comes out almost clean. Allow the blondies to cool completely before cutting into 16 portions.

Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding

Though my single mother did an admirable job of keeping us kids fueled-up on unprocessed foods and fresh vegetables, she had a few breaking points. They were: canned tomato soup, boxed macaroni and cheese, and Jello-O instant pudding. In fact, I remember more than a few post-work Monday night meals that consisted of exactly these three items. Occasionally , even now as an adult, if I’m feeling like I need a little comfort food, these are my instant stand-bys. Luckily, the island store happens to stock all of these items, but even I can admit there is nothing like pudding made from scratch. All the comfort, none of the chemicals. Serves 6 to 8

2/3 cup granulated sugar
¼ cup corn starch
½ teaspoon salt
4 large egg yolks
3 cups milk
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped and melted
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped and melted
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoons vanilla extract

In a medium-size saucepan, whisk together the sugar, corn starch, salt, and egg yolks until smooth. Whisk in the milk, and then place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture boils.

Simmer for 1 minute, and then remove from the heat. Press this hot mixture through a sieve into a heat-proof bowl, and then stir in the chocolates, butter, and vanilla. Mix thoroughly until everything is melted and the pudding is smooth.

Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pudding and place in the refrigerator to chill thoroughly.

Serve the pudding in parfait glasses with a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Hungry for Maine fare? Portland’s Harvest on the Harbor is an event to savor

Portland, Maine’s, annual Harvest on the Harbor food and wine experience has become the culinary event in a state renowned for its locavore culture, in  the town named “America’s Foodiest” by Bon Appetit. Since it’s inception in 2008, the October food-and-wine celebration has grown each year, fed by locals who seem to have an insatiable appetite for anything food related and culinary travelers, who want a tasting course in Maine’s best.

New events for 2011 include:

• Top of the Crop: Maine’s Best Farm-to-Table Chef

Four Maine Chefs—Derek Federico, of five fifty-five; Eric Flynn, of the Harraseeket Inn; Joshua Mather of Joshua’s; and Masa Miyake, of Miyake—compete for the coveted title, creating entrees from specified local roducts. Wines will be paired by Cellardoor Winery.

• The Ultimate Seafood Splash: Familiar Name, New Twist

Five chefs (Sam Hayward, of Fore Street; Mitchell Kaldrovich, of Sea Glass; Adam White, of Salt Exchange; Cassady Pappas, of Havana South; and visiting celebrity chef Michael Ruoss, of Salu) are partnering with local fishermen to highlight lesser known sustainable species from the Gulf of Maine: red fish, whiting, cod, northern shrimp, and pollock. This is an educational event, with opportunities to learn more about sustainably harvested seafood from the chefs, fishermen, and representatives from the Gulf of Maine Research Institute. Wine and other seafood is available, too.

These events join three others that serve to dish out Maine’s best:

• Grand Tasting on the Harbor

Nibble and sip your way around the room, tasting small portions prepared by local restaurants complemented by wines, brews, and spirits.

• Savory Samplings Marketplacen

A nibble of this, a sip of that… Watch culinary demonstrations and presentations; get cookbooks signed; enjoy live entertainment; and sample your way through beverages provided by more than two dozen wineries/breweries/distilleries and plentiful bites from Maine restaurants and producers

• Lobster Chef-of-the-Year Competition

The title says it all. This year’s finalists are:

Kristian Burrin, of The Seasons of Stonington, preparing Trio of Maine lobster rolls

Ryan Campbell, of Lake Parlin and Cabins, preparing Maine lobster menage a trois

Thomas Regan, a private chef in the Kennebunks, preparing slow poached lobster tail Nipponese

Complementing these signature events are other culinary-centered activities, including dinners at local restaurants.

Some events are already sold out, so if you want a taste of Maine’s best, get crackin’!

 

 

Maine’s Blue Hill peninsula delivers coastal Maine without the crowds

Blue Hill Deer Isle bridge
A soaring bridge tethers Deer Isle to the Blue Hill peninsula. @Hilary Nangle

Maine’s Blue Hill peninsula exudes the essence of what what many people picture when dreaming about the Maine coast. It’s off the beaten track, with a rolling landscape carved in granite, fringed with spruce, splashed with ponds, sprinkled with galleries, salted with farmsteads, and peppered with those classic big-house, little-house, back-house, barn homes that art directors love to put on magazine covers.

Every time I visit, I wonder why this spectacular chunk of Maine remains so untouristed. And then I smile and thank God that it does

To that, add a diverse yet unusually complementary population of back-to-the-landers and trust-funders, boat builders and bakers, artists and entrepreneurs, chiseled-in-granite umpteenth-generation Mainers and drawn-by-the-vibe New Agers.

When we arrived in late afternoon, the pies were gone but there were some blueberry brownies. Hilary Nangle photo.
Honor stands, such as this one selling homemde pies and tarts, are one of the fun finds when exploring Maine’s Blue Hill peninsula. ©Hilary Nangle

Now web this landscape with byways that reveal spectacular views, provide access to underutilized parks and land trust trails, and pass honor-bar-style farmstands. A mosey here validates the ages-old concept of taking a Sunday Drive just because.

Every time I visit, I wonder why this spectacular chunk of Maine remains so untouristed. And then I smile and thank God that it does.

Blue Hill anchors the peninsula, but here I’m highlighting a mosey looping via Route 175 through Brooklin, Sedgwick, Sargentville, and Brooksville, with a detour loop around Cape Rosier. Do it in one day, or break it up to allow time to immersie and enjoy the area.

This is a gorgeous drive any time, but it’s particularly pretty in autumn, when the colors of the season reflect in the ocean, rivers, and fresh waters that color so much of the region’s map blue. Updated Dec. 27, 2019

Brooklin: wooden boats and E. B. White

Brooklin, the self-proclimed Wooden Boat capital of the World lives up to the moniker. This village on the Blue Hill Peninsula is home to WoodenBoat Magazine and the Wooden Boat School as well as plentiful boatyards, large and small. Most, of course, build wooden boats. Ann, but that’s not all Brooklin is famous for. It’s also where renowned writer E.B. White, author of such beloved children’s classics as Stuart Little and Charlotte’s Web, lived.

Leaf and Anna
Find Leaf and Anna next to the renovated Brooklin General Store. ©Hilary Nangle

Just east of town, veer off Route 175 on the Flye Point Road to view work by Maine artists at Flye Point Sculpture Garden & Art Gallery.

Now downtown Brooklin isn’t particularly large—maybe three-blinks—but it’s well worth stopping for a browse about. Smack downtown is the Brooklin General Store, an updated classic, and next to it, Leaf and Anna, a delightful shop filled with intriguing gifts, garden goods, books, and cookware.

Drive down the Naskeag Point Road for a look-see at the Wooden Boat School‘s campus and poke into its store, then continue to Naskeag Point for the view. It’s a perfect spot for a picnic.

A bit west of downtown, Virginia G. Sarsfield handcrafts paper products, including custom lamp shades, calligraphy papers, books, and lamps at Handmade Papers.

Can’t bear to leave? Book a room at the recently updated Brooklin Inn, which has a good dining room and a pub.

Sedgwick: Mex and more

Pushcart Press book store
Don’t miss the World’s Smallest Bookstore, Pushcart Press in Sedgwick. ©Hilary Nangle

Route 175 parallels the famed sailing waters of Eggemoggin Reach, where it’s not rare to sight windjammers under full sail.

Detour a bit north on Route 172, then left on Christy Hill Road. Just before it ends in a T intersection with Old County Road, look left for  Pushcart Press Bookstore, which bills itself a “the world’s smallest bookstore.” Easy to believe; but the adorable, one-room shop is jammed with good reads, both used and new. Be sure to check out the editions of the Pushcart Prize: Best of the Small Presses annual series.

At the intersection with Route 15, jog north to stay on 175. You might not expect good Mex is a rural coastal Maine community, but you’ll find it, scratch-made and with a down east accent, at El El Frijoles (That’s El El Beans for you gringos).

Brooksville: food, farms, and Congdon’s Garage

Congdon's Garage
Fans of author Robert McClusky might recognize Condon’s Garage from his classic Maine children’s books. @Tom Nangle

Now you could sidle back up to Blue Hill on Route 15, but stay on Route 175 (requires a left). At the intersection with Route 176, detour right following Route 175 for visit  to Makers’ Market, a double find. It carries wonderful works by local artists and artisans and doubles as Ecouture Textile Studio, with handcrafted one-of-a-kind scarves, art, and clothing from all-natural and sustainable textiles.

Now, return to Route 176 to loop through Brooksville and out to Cape Rosier. On this side of the peninsula, you leave behind E.B. White’s Maine and enter that of another beloved children’s author, Robert McCloskey (One Morning in Maine and Blueberries for Sal). Hard to believe the Blue Hill peninsula could become more rural and rustic, but it does.

Buck's Harbor Market
Pick up picnic fixin’s at Buck’s Harbor Market. ©Hilary Nangle

A bit further on, you arrive in Buck’s Harbor, home to Congdon’s Garage, mentioned in McCloskey’s books. If you didn’t eat previously, Buck’s Harbor Market is another great spot to pick up picnic fixings, sandwiches, and other goodies.

Now you need a place to picnic, and Cape Rosier is it. Loop out to the Holbrook Island Sanctuary State Park. Here you’ll find a fine picnic area, a small rocky beach, and easy-on-the-eyes views. Work off lunch on one of the hiking trails.

Workers at Four Season Farm, in Brooksville.
Organic guru Eliot Coleman (far right) is the man behind Four Season Farm, on Cape Rosier. © Hilary Nangle

It’s worth the effort, while on the cape, to visit Harborside for a dip into this town’s back-to-the-land legacy. The Good Life Center at Forest Farm, was home to the late back-to-the-land gurus Scott and Helen Nearing; check the schedule for hours and programs. Internationally renowned gardeners Eliot Coleman and Barbara Damrosch own Four Season Farm. You’ll never see more gorgeous produce than that at this lush organic farm.

Tinder Hearth Bakery in Brooksville
Tinder Hearth’s baked goods can be found in shops and at farmers markets, but you can also purchase the breads, croissants, and other treats right at the farm bakery, in Brooksville. ©Hilary Nangle

When you depart Cape Rosier, finish looping through Brooksville on Route 176. Along the way, be sure to pull over every now and then to take in the views over the water toward Castine.

And, keep an eye out for Tinder Hearth Bakery, source of organic breads and pastries that put all store-bought ones to shame. Tinder Hearth also hosts Open Mic sessions and pizza nights. Check the website for details.

Seasonal Bagaduce Lunch overlooks the Reversing Falls, quite the sight when the tide is right. Hilary Nangle photo.
You can’t beat the views or the fried clams at Bagaduce Lunch, winner of the “American Classic” award from the James Beard Foundation. ©Hilary Nangle

Ready for another nibble or feast? Bagaduce Lunch overlooks the Bagaduce River’s reversing falls. This seasonal takeout stand, named an American Classic by the James Beard Foundation, turns out awesome fried clams and other seafood favorites.

If you’re smitten by Brooksville, two cottage colonies make it easy to spend a week: Oakland House, on Eggemoggin Reach (where a new generation has added smart guestrooms in the original homestead), and Hiram Blake Camps, on Cape Rosier. Blake’s includes meals in season. And of course, you can always stay at the Blue Hill Inn, a classic country inn in Blue Hill, and circle out from there.

Oakland House
Oakland House has remained in the same family since pre-Revolutionary times. A new generation has updated the original homestead, with a dining room downstairs and handsome guestrooms upstairs. Also on the waterfront property are cottages. ©Hilary nangle

 

 

The Eat Local Cookbook helps cooks get the most out of the season’s bounty

Peruse The Eat Local Cookbook before heading to the market.In Maine, eating fresh, local food is easy. The state was farm-to-table in homes and in many restaurants long before it became  trend. Now that it’s harvest season,  farm stands and farmers’ markets are overflowing with fresh produce, but  sometimes figuring out how to prepare those veggies and fruits can be a challenge. Lisa Turner, of Freeport’s Laughing Stock Farm, comes to the rescue with The Eat Local Cookbook: Seasonal Recipes from a Maine Farm.

I love this cookbook, published by Down East. It provides new ways to deal with the overabundance of zucchini (besides leaving in an unsuspecting neighbor’s car); shows how to prepare less well known produce, such as fennel, spaghetti squash, and baby bok choi;  provides new takes on old favorites, such as chicken with dumplings, red flannel hash, and even tuna noodle casserole; and delivers ethnic accents, such as recipes for kimchi, moussaka, and Thai-accented lobster and native corn bisque.

Turner not only shares her own recipes, but also those from some of Maine’s best-known chefs, including James Beard award winner Sam Hayward, of Fore Street; Abby Harmon, of Caiola’s; Dave Iovino, of Blue Spoon; Richard Lemoine, of the Cape Arundel Inn;  Joe Boudreau, of Havana South; and many others.

Recipes are presented by season, so whether it’s pea shoots and radishes or potatoes and leeks crowding the market, there’s a recipe at hand.  With the chill of fall in the air and apples, cranberries, and pumpkins coloring local fields and farmers’ markets varied shades of orange and red, I’m sharing two of Turner’s fall/winter recipes.

Apple Cranberry Cake
From The Eat Local Cookbook: Seasonal Recipes from a Maine Farm, by Lisa Turner.

This is a wonderfully moist cake. You can make it in a ring pan and have a pretty and delicious cake.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, cream together:
1 ½ cups brown sugar
½ cup vegetable oil

Add and beat well:
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Sift together:
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix well. Stir in
2 cups peeled, cored, and diced apples
2 cups cranberries

Bake in a greased and floured ring pan for 50-60 minutes or 9” X 13” pan for 45-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

In honor of the whoopie pie being named Maine’s official snack food, here’s Turner’s recipe for Pumpkin Whoopie Pies.

Pumpkin Whoopie Pies
From The Eat Local Cookbook: Seasonal Recipes from a Maine Farm, by Lisa Turner

Who doesn’t love a whoopie pie? I’m pretty sure that making them with a vegetable (pumpkin) doesn’t even begin to make them “healthy,” but it doest make a fabulous variation. This one is courtesy of our CSA member Shari Broder.

With an electric mixer, bet together until blended:
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
¾ cup sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Gradually beat in:
½ cup vegetable oil

Add one at a time, beating between each addition:
3 large eggs

Beat in:
2 cups Pumpkin Puree* ( if you want to make your own, see below)

In a separate large bowl, sift together:
2 cups white flour
1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 ½ teaspoons baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¾ teaspoon ground allspice

In a third small bowl, mix together:
½ cup sour cream
3 tablespoons milk

Add half of the dry ingredients into the electric mixer bowl and mix well. Add the sour cream and milk mixture and mix well. Add the second half of the dry ingredients. Coer the batter and chill for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees

Line two cooking sheets with baking parchment. Spoon the batter onto the baking sheet to make the cakes. Use about one heaping tablespoonful for small pies, or two heaping tablespoonfuls for large one. Leave some space between the pies as you put them on the pans. The batter may not all fit on the two sheets, in which case you’ll need to do this a second time with the remaining batter. Remember, you need two cake pieces per pie. Let the batter stand on the cookie sheets for 10 minutes.

Set the racks in the oven so that one is 1/3 of the way down from the top and the other is 1/3 of the way up from the bottom

Bake the cakes for about 11 minutes for small pies or 16 to 20 minutes for larger pies, switching the sheets to the opposite racks halfway through baking. They are done when a toothpick stuck n the center comes out clean. Cool the cakes completely on the cookie sheets on a rack. Gently remove the cakes from the parchment.

In a clean bowl, beat with an electric mixer on low to medium speed until smooth:
½ cup unsalted butter
one (8-ounce) package cream cheese

Blend in:
½ teaspoon vanilla
½ teaspoon maple extract

With the mixer on low speed, add slowly and mix until smooth:
3 cups sifted powdered sugar

Once the powdered sugar is fully incorporated, mix at high speed for about 3 minutes to incorporate some air into the filling. Spoon 1 to 2 tablesspoons of filling onto the flat side of a cake. Top with another cake, flat side down. Repeat with the remaining cakes and filling. These can be made ahead and stored in a single layer in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week, if you can resist them for that long!


*Pumpkin Puree

From The Eat Local Cookbook: Seasonal Recipes from a Maine Farm, by Lisa Turner.

To turn a big fat pumpkin into the stuff that comes in the can, you need to cut up the pumpkin and remove the stem and seeds. Cook the pumpkin either by simmering it or baking it until tender—maybe 20 to 30 minutes of simmering or 45 minutes of baking at 400 degrees. Remove the insides from the skin and run it through a food processor or buzz it in the blender, or run it through a food mill. This will make it a uniform consistency.