I’m sure late 19th-century Maine architect Francis Fassett would be pleased with The Francis, Portland’s newest boutique hotel. Fassett designed the Congress Street home for the Mellen E. Bolster family, which operated the Bolster, Snow & Co. store on Middle Street. The 1881 brick building later housed the Hay & Peabody funeral home for 80 years, before sitting vacant for a decade.
Enter brothers Anthony, Jacob, and Nate DeLois. In 2015, the trio were refueling at Tandem Coffee, a popular coffee house across the street, and noticed the empty property. The brothers, who have a family background in hospitality (other properties include two Ogunquit hotels, The Colonial and The Adimiral’s Inn), realized its potential, and purchased it. After a two-year restoration, they opened the massive oak doors to the 15-room hotel in October 2017.
Boutique hotel with original details + contemporary vibe
The Francis honors the man who helped Portland rise from the ashes of the Great Fire of 1881. Fassett designed roughly 400 buildings in the Victorian High Gothic and Queen Anne styles. He’s credited (along with his one-time apprentice, the better known John Calvin Stevens) with helping shape the current look of city’s West End. The hotel, now listed on the National Park Service’s Registry of Historic Places, successfully blends period architectural details with contemporary accents and amenities.
Anthony DeLois toured me through the property, pointing out original features such as gleaming hardwood floors—some parquet, tiled fireplace surrounds, and stained-glass windows preserve the building’s integrity. In some rooms, the reflection of light through original leaded glass windows dances playfully on the walls at night. He pointed out a window to the original, 1925 Seth Thomas clock, one of 80 street clocks made by America’s oldest clock company. The ornate, four-faced, pole-mounted clock is one of only a handful built with both mechanical and electrical works.
Contemporary elements balance historical ones. These include sleek furnishings, tiled baths, and quality linens. An elevator eases access to all floors, although the grand front stairway and the backstairs remain. Overall, the rooms are handsome and minimalist, providing all the necessities without clutter. The well conceived and meticulous renovation pays homage to the building’s architectural bones.
No two guestrooms at The Francis are alike. It offers eight room configurations, including an accessible king.
I loved my junior suite, with its vaulted ceiling, bay window, and spaciousness—enough room for two, perhaps three, adults to comfortably practice yoga. It offered a comfy seating area, luggage bench, bedside lamps, and individual room temperature control.
Other standard amenities include Frette robes, an in-room safe, 40-inch TVs, Cuddledown duvets and pillows, art by Nicole Wolf, Malin + Goetz toiletries, and a minibar emphasizing Maine-made products, a nice touch.
Other pluses for The Francis include:
a 24-hour staffed front desk offering concierge services,
local artwork in the public rooms,
a handsome front parlor,
reading nooks,
an onsite spa using Farmasthetics products,
off-street parking, and
a Congress Street location within easy walking distance of museums, galleries, and restaurants.
The hotel doesn’t serve breakfast, but with 24-hour advance notice, enjoy breakfast-in-bed: coffee, OJ, and pastry from Tandem and a newspaper delivered to your room for about $25.
Schuss Olympian-worthy slopes by day and immerse in Olympic history at night at one of these hotels owned by or affiliated with an alpine Olympian.
Olympic gold medalist the late Egon Zimmermann lovesdsharing schnapps with his guests at the Hotel Kristberg in Lech, Austria. @Hilary Nangle
Arlberg, Austria
Austria’s sprawling Arlberg, an Olympian incubator, is also famed as the cradle of modern skiing and for its role in the iconic ski movie Downhill Racer with Robert Redford.
Kristiania Lech, Lech: Othmar Schneider (Aug. 27, 1928-Dec. 25, 2012) won slalom gold and downhill silver in the 1952 games. His wife and daughter now manage the five-star boutique hotel, which contains his Olympic memorabilia, as well as a museum-quality collection of contemporary art.
Hotel Karl Schranz, St. Anton am Arlberg: Three-time World Champion Karl Shranz (b. Nov. 18, 1938) competed at four Olympics, winning silver in the giant slalom, in 1962. He manages the four-star hotel with his wife and three daughters.
Hotel Kristberg, Lech: Egon Zimmermann (Feb. 8, 1939-Aug. 23, 2019), winner of the gold medal in the 1964 Olympic downhill, resigned from competition and began running this four-star property in 1966. It’s now operated by his nephew.
Hotel Montana, Oberlech: After earning gold in the 1992 Olympic downhill, second-generation hotelier Patrick Ortlieb (b. May 17, 1967) went on to win the legendary Hahnenkamm downhill, marry, and take over operations of the four-star superior hotel from his parents.
Hotel Altis, in Les Trois Vallèes, owned by French ski jumper Emmanuel Chedal, is only a five-minute walk from the Olympic gondola to Meribel Center. From there, the skiing seems endless. @Hilary Nangle
Les Trois Vallées, France
Les Trois Valles, site of the 1992 Olympic men’s slalom and women’s slalom, giant slalom super G, and downhill, continues to host World Cup alpine events.
Hotel Altis, Brides les Bains: Emmanuel Chedal (b. Jan. 15, 1983) a member of the French national ski-jumping team, competed in the 2002 and 2010 Olympic Games. The third-generation family-owned hotel, which he rebuilt with his brothers in 2013, is a five-minute walk from Meribel’s Olympic gondola.
Snugged against the Italian border, these traditional, car-free villages are only 35 miles apart. Saas-Fe has hosted World Cup snowboard, ski-cross, downhill, giant slalom, slalom, and halfpipe events. Numerous national ski teams train on sprawling Zermatt’s glacier each summer.
Wellness Hotel Pirmin Zurbriggen, Saas-Almagell, and Suitenhotel Zurbriggen Zermatt: Often referred to as Switzerland’s greatest racer, Pirmin Zurbriggen (b. Feb. 4, 1963) won gold in downhill and bronze in giant slalom, in the 1988 Olympics. Zurbriggen usually visits with guests at the four-star Saas-Fee hotel, built by his grandfather, once each week and skis with them during special ski weeks. He skis with Zermatt guests one day each week. Both properties are within steps of lifts.
Host of the 1921 and 1980 Olympics, Lake Placid is a frequent stop for World Cup alpine and freestyle racers.
Mirror Lake Inn: Two-time Olympian Andrew Weilbrecht (b. Feb. 10, 1986) competed in the Super-G, racing to bronze in 2010 and silver in 2014. His medals are displayed at the four-diamond inn owned by his family since the 1930s, and if he’s in town, he’s happy to meet guests.
Olympic Gold medalist Stein Ericksen was affiliated with this Deer Valley hotel. Courtesy Stein Ericksen Lodge Deer Valley.
Deer Valley, Utah
Deer Valley hosted the slalom and freestyle events in the 2002 Olympics. Visitors here also can easily access Park City Ski Area and The Canyons, which held other Olympic events.
Stein Eriksen Lodge: Norwegian ski phenom Stein Eriksen (Dec. 11 1927-Dec. 27, 2015) won gold in the giant slalom and silver in the slalom at the 1952 games. He later lent his name to this slopeside, five-star lodge.
Tordrillo Mountain Range, Alaska
Olympic double medalist Tommy Moe is a partner in Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, a remote, luxury, heli-skiing property in Alaska’s Tordrillo mountain range. Moe won gold in the Olympic downhill and silver in the G.S. in the 1994 games in Lillehammer, Norway. When on-site, he shares his passion for powder skiing with guests.
Sun Peaks, B.C., Canada
Nancy Greene’s Cahilty Lodge: Despite an injured ankle, Nancy Greene won silver in slalom and, with a 2.68 margin, won giant slalom gold in the 1968 Grenoble Games. Greene and her husband, Al Raine, opened the lodge in 1995. She joins guests at Sunday evening receptions and skis with them when possible.
Canmore, Alb., Canada
Constructed for the 1988 Olympic biathlon, cross-country, and Nordic combined events, this venue also hosts World Cup races.
Paintbox Lodge: Kick back and relax at this intown, five-room inn run by Sara Renner (b. Apr. 10, 1976), who won silver in the 2006 cross-country team sprint, in partnership with World Cup Champion Thomas Grandi.
Just below my private elevated deck, I spot the welcoming committee – three hyraxes rustling in scrubby brush. Beyond that, the land drops 1,000 feet to the Mara Triangle, the northernmost point of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. Using the powerful Nikon binoculars supplied in my suite, I scan the sky-bordered, amber-hued savanna. Amid solitary Balanite trees, forests splotched with murky mudholes, and emerald green wetlands splashed with shimmery blue, I spy buffaloes, elephants, giraffes, and zebras. Welcome to Angama Mara, the luxury safari camp overlooking the Great Rift Valley in Kenya’s Maasai Mara.
Veteran safari camp operators Nicky Fitzgerald and her late husband, Steve, waited 15 years to gain the lease on this property, a location enshrined in the movie poster for Out of Africa. Picture Streep and Redford picnicking atop the world: That’s exactly where Angama Mara is sited. Angama, a Swahili word for suspended in mid air, is an apt name. The resort hugs the rim of the Oloololo Escarpment and floats above wildlife-rich Mara Triangle. Framed by the escarpment on the west, the Mara River on the east, and the Tanzanian border in the south, the triangle tips the Maasai Mara National Reserve, 500 square kilometers of marshes, open plains, and forested lands owned by the Maasai people and managed by the Mara Conservancy.
“Very few places in safari Africa have this kind of grand a-hah!” Nicki says. “We feel that all the things we’ve done in our life, which are many, have come to this place. This is our elegant swansong.”
The Fitzgerald’s, whose African hospitality career began in 1980, are best known for their 15-year career with CC Africa (now &Beyond), during which they not only grew the company from three to more than 55 properties but also elevated the luxury safari experience. Here, they’ve created two conjoined camps, each with 15 suites and its own lounging and dining lodge. They share a central pavilion housing a pool, fitness center, gift shop, and bespoke beading workshop.
Guests enter each 1,076-square-foot suite is entered through a butler’s vestibule, where tea or coffee and biscuits are discreetly delivered as a morning wake-up call. Inside, the décor takes a back seat to that wall of glass and those forever views. I take in the canvas walls and ceiling, wood parquet floors, and John Vogel furnishings. Maasai-inspired colors, textures, and patterns—red chenille bed covering, luscious plaid woolen blankets, hand-beaded door handles—add zing. The whole is handsome and inviting, sleek and contemporary yet rooted in local culture, and brilliantly designed to maximize the 180-degree views. I can’t think of anything I might possibly need. From intriguing books to the Sony Xperia preloaded with info, nibble to sips; it’s all here.
“There’s something about this property that makes people want to sit and be. They watch the clouds, elephants, rainbows, snooze, open one eye, watch more,” Nicki says. “I love that. People need more of that.”
Each year, from July into October, more than 2 million wildebeest and zebras migrate northward from Tanzania’s Serengeti in search of fresh grasslands. @Hilary Nangle
I agree, but tempting as it is to cocoon in my suite, the reason for my late-July visit is to experience The Great Migration. Each year, from July into October, more than 2 million wildebeest and zebras migrate northward from Tanzania’s Serengeti in search of fresh grasslands. The major obstacle impeding their progress is the Mara River. Crossing it requires descending steep banks, navigating rocky-bottomed waters, and avoiding 12- to 18-foot crocodiles anticipating easy feasts. “A guest had an amazing sighting yesterday,” Nicki teases. “The wildebeest were using the crocs as stepping stones in the river.”
I’m eager to see the same, and over the next five days, I head out on half- and full-day safaris with guide Sammy Mumbi and even take to the skies in a hot air balloon. One of the Mara’s plusses is that the abundance of wildlife negates the necessity of crack-of-dawn game drives. Mornings are leisurely, with time for massages, walks with Maasai naturalists, working out and swimming laps, visiting a local Maasai village, and simply relaxing.
The Fitzgeralds have applied their accumulated knowledge to the resort’s operation, making it far less rigid than most safari lodges. Meal times are flexible, menus are a la carte, and dining venues vary. During my stay I enjoy breakfast and lunch on the deck of the main lodge as well as on safari picnics and, most memorably, on the Out of Africa kopje. My dinner venues are even more varied: the cozy brick-walled library, the dining room, my deck, poolside, and a magical barbeque buffet in the bush. On one evening, local Maasai dance and sing for all guests in a sunset party overlooking the Out of Arica kopje.
During previous African safaris, I’ve seen the Big Five—lion, leopard, black rhino, elephant, and buffalo, but not in such abundance. With Sammy, I sight lions and leopards in trees and with kills, elephants parading across grasslands, buffalo enjoying mud baths, and twice spy the rare black rhino—only 11 reside in the triangle. We see elusive cheetahs, jackals, and hyenas. Crocs and hippos eyeball us from the river, baboons frolic on hillsides, and zebra, giraffes, baboons, and ostriches graze amidst various antelope species as birds of prey soar overhead.
On the morning of the balloon flight, we depart the lodge, descending to the grasslands in the star-spangled predawn quietude. “This is the best launch site in the whole of Africa, and these are the best flying conditions in the world,” says pilot David Chipping, whose 28-year ballooning career has taken him around the globe. We launch in the predawn grayness, and with only the whoosh of flame as background music, rise above the Mara River. Watching a baby hippo disappears in a thrash of crocodile-stirred water below, I rethink my desire to see wildebeest suffer the same fate.
When the migration is in full swing, Nicki says the plains below Angama Mara will appear black with wildebeest, but they’ve yet to arrive en masse. Sammy takes me to crossing point near the Tanzanian border. Herds numbering in the hundreds if not thousands are approaching or milling on the other side, but lacking a leader, they worry to and fro, approaching and receding, but not crossing. “All it takes is one to start, and they’ll all follow,” Sammy promises. “Look at them; they’re made with God’s leftover parts. They have the slanted body of a hyena, the horns of a buffalo, the tail of a horse, the thin legs of a gazelle, and the face of a hartebeest.”
Silently, I will them to cross. We’re abandoning hope when a cloud of dust signals movement. They stampede across the river in a frenzied panic, scrambling up the steep bank, and regrouping on this side. Witnessing it is everything I imagined, if not more.
Back in my suite, wine in hand, I settle into a rocker on my deck and absorb the panorama. As the heat of day relents to the evening’s coolness and golden light cedes to smoky rose-hued blues, I listen to a wildlife symphony broken only by snippets of conversation riding on the breeze and a distant rumble of thunder. A lion roars; an elephant trumpets in reply. I float in a state of Agama Zen, simply sitting and being and wanting never to depart.
Note: Such all-inclusive (safaris, meals, drinks, accommodation, laundry) indulgence comes at a high price. As of 2018, rates begin at $1,200 pp/night.
I traveled to Angama Mara in July, 2015, on assignment for Private Clubs magazine. An edited version of this article appeared in the Winter 2016 issue.
On each of the last 10 days of 2017, I shared one of my 10 most memorable Maine experiences from the year. These are not in any particular order, consider them equally enjoyed.
Not every flight circles out over Casco Bay before landing in Portland (PWM), but if you’re fortunate enough to be on one that does, you’ll want to be in a window seat. I love trying to spy various landmarks, from beaches to lighthouses, harbors to islands. When viewed from above, it’s easy to understand why an early explorer, thinking there were so many islands in the bay that there had to be one for every day of the year, dubbed them the Calendar Islands.
Hail to friends (thank you, Joan!) who stay up until the wee hours to score a reservation at The Lost Kitchen. We found chef/owner Erin French’s little slice of heaven in a masterfully renovated stream-side mill in Freedom, Maine. Now, I’ve been fortunate in my career; I’ve dined at quite a few Michelin-starred and/or James Beard Award-winning restaurants in North America and Europe. My dinner at The Lost Kitchen stands out as one of the best and most memorable of all. The setting is idyllic, and French not only prepares, but also serves every course. Everything was perfect, from the wine store operated by French’s mother in the mill’s basement museum, to the thoughtful presentation of each course. (FYI: You can purchase an autographed copy of her cookbook here).
What do Corea and Waterville, Maine, and New York City have in common? If you’ve read my earlier posts this year, the answer is easy: artist Marsden Hartley. I had the good fortune to see the exhibit Marseden Hartley’s Maine twice: first at the Met Breur in New York, and then at the Colby College Museum of Art in Waterville.
On a trip to one of my favorite lobster shacks, Corea’s Wharf Gallery & Grill, sixth-generation lobsterman Joe Young, a descendant of Corea’s original settlers, brought Hartley to life. He recounted family stories of Hartley’s time in Corea, a classic fishing village on the Schoodic Peninsula. I
f you didn’t see the exhibit, you might consider purchasing the book. In any case, next time you’re visiting the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park or heading to parts down east, pop into the seasonal Wharf Gallery & Grill and ask Joe to share a few of his stories.
It’s hard to believe that the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens has only existed for 10 years. This eye candy bonanza is equally magical in summer as in winter.
It’s easy to spend the better part of a day exploring the 195-acre gardens. Most of the formal gardens are on the upper level. My favorites are the Garden of the Five Senses and the Children’s Garden, where Maine classics such as Blueberries for Sal come alive. I’m guessing many visitors never even find the Rhododendron Garden, given its off-the-beaten-path location. A path zigzags down a wooded hillside to the tidal waterfront on the Back River, where there are hiking trails, sea kayaking options, even a fairy village.
In winter, more than 500,000 LED lights illuminate the upper gardens for Gardens Aglow (4-9pm daily from late November through Dec. 31, except Christmas).
On a sunny day, the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden is a knockout. But even in the rain, when drops glisten and colors pop, it’s spectacular. Renowned landscape designer Beatrix Farrand created this walled garden for the Rockefellers between 1926 and 1935, using treasures the Rockefellers had acquired in Asia. Within the garden’s walls are English floral beds, Korean tombstone figures, woodland and water gardens, and a great green. Although gorgeous anytime, the garden comes into peak bloom during the first two weeks of August.
Traditionally, the garden is open one day weekly, by advance reservation, for two visitation sessions in season. Most visitors arrive right at the session’s start, but you can avoid the crowds by showing up a little later and still have plenty of time. A garden guide with map is provided, but you’re free to explore at your own pace.
Note: The Garden Preserve, which oversees both Thuya and Asticou Gardens, is assuming ownership of this garden as a bequest from Rockefeller, so the schedule may change.
Even if you’ve never visited Monhegan Island, if you have any familiarity with American art, you’ll likely recognize many of its icons: the red house perched just so on the shoreline; the lighthouse and bell atop the hill; the craggy cliffs dropping to churning surf; the three-story hotel with its wrap-around porch; or stark Manana island, which protects it harbor.
Lobster fishing supports the small, year-round community, but artists have come for generations to paint these scenes. They’re joined by folks who come to tour the lighthouse museums and artists’ studios; birders who flock here spring and fall to add new species to their life lists; hikers who come to explore the trails lacing the island; and those, like me, who simply want to escape civilization for a few days.
Most visitors only stay for the day, but the lucky ones spend at least a night, ideally a few, soaking up the quietude and the island’s unique culture. Monhegan isn’t for everyone, services are few. But if you’re yearning for a getaway with a difference, you’ll find it here.
On this bitterly frigid day (dreaming of reaching single digits), my thoughts turn to ice cream, and Maine has some of the nation’s best. I’ve often dished about my favorites, and I’ve even compiled a list of all the local Maine ice cream shops dishing out freshly made ice cream.
Last summer, I researched a new edition of my Moon Acadia National Park book, and that, of course, required first-hand knowledge. That’s when I discovered Pugnuts in Surry (also available at Black Dinah in Blue Hill and at McGrath’s in Northeast Harbor). That got me thinking that the Acadia region may have some of Maine’s best. In addition to Pugnuts, there’s also Morton’s Moo in Ellsworth, and Ben & Bill’s, Mount Desert Ice Cream in Bar Harbor, and Jordan Pond Ice Cream in Bar Harbor.
Island hopping in Maine is one of my favorite pastimes, and the new edition of Acadia demanded a trip to Frenchboro. At first, I planned to go for the annual lobster festival in August, but that didn’t work out. Instead, I joined Capt. Eli Strauss, of Island Cruises, aboard the R.L. Gott for the 3.5-hour lunch cruise out of Bass Harbor. As he weaves a course through islands, Strauss shares lots of local heritage and lore about once-thriving and now abandoned granite-quarrying and fishing communities and the sardine industry. He earns major points for maneuvering the boat so that passengers on both sides get an up-close view of key sights. En route, he points out seals, cormorants, guillemots, and often eagles.
For me the highlight is docking at Lunt’s Lobster in Frenchboro. The island, Outer Long, is called by the name of the village wrapping around Lunt’s Cove. It’s one of 15 Maine islands that still have a year-round community. After feasting on an ultra fresh lobster roll (the menu ranges from hot dogs to lobster dinners), we had enough time to stroll through the village and visit the historical museum, before boarding for the return trip. On that, Strauss explains lobster fishing and hauls a trap or two.
I hope to return some summer Friday to Frenchboro for a full day on the island. That will allow time to hike some of the more than 10 miles of marked trails—more than 80 percent of the island including about 8 miles of shoreline is in a preserve managed by Maine Coast Heritage Trust.
It’s been a long time since I could recommend the Higgins Beach Inn, but after a complete renovation, it’s once again the belle of the beach. @Hilary Nangle
Higgins Beach Inn
I spent way too many hours of my teenage years doused with baby oil and watching the boys go by at Higgins Beach. I’d buy a season parking ticket for $5 and park behind the store, which had the only public toilet (most outhouses these days are nicer). En route from the store to the beach, I’d pass the Higgins Beach Inn, but rarely gave it a second thought. When invited to see the renovated inn in the spring, I went.
The Migis Group, which owns Migis Lodge and owns or manages a number of other properties in Maine and beyond, did a wonderful job taking this Victorian beach hotel and updating it with a modern, uncluttered look accented with strong colors and contemporary art. It shines again as a seasonal place to stay or enjoy a meal in the restaurant or simply hang out in the bar or covered deck.
I walked around the neighborhood—it’s now more year-round Portland suburb than seasonal beach community—but the beach itself hasn’t changed too much. It’s still a broad stretch at low tide, giving way to a narrow strip when the tide’s high. In the off-season, dogs run free. When storms toss the sea, surfers ride the combers. I’m happy to be able to recommend visiting here and staying in the Higgins Beach Inn.
Until this year, despite growing up on the coast of Maine, I had never been out on a boat to watch Fourth of July fireworks. Susi Homer,a former innkeeper in Southwest Harbor, invited me to join her aboard a boat chartered for the evening. We sipped and savored hors d’oeuvres and bubbly aboard as we cruised to Islesford, one of Acadia’s Cranberry Isles, for an early dinner at the Islesford Dock (I’m eager to return here; everything I tasted was excellent). While dining, thunderstorms made for dramatic lighting, but ceded in time to cruise to Southwest Harbor for the big lights show. En route, we devoured dessert—blueberry cake with whipped cream.
If you ever get an opportunity to view fireworks from a boat, don’t hesitate to do so. It really feels as if you are in the center of it all, watching bombs bursting in air, with smoke clearing to reveal the boat’s flag still there.
As much as I love Maine, come December, I’m craving sunshine and warmth. When the opportunity to cruise aboard Holland America Line‘s 2,106-passenger Nieuw Amsterdamarose, I didn’t hesitate. Sign me up!
Honestly, I didn’t think I’d enjoy cruising on a big ship. This five-day Bahamas cruise departing from Fort Lauderdale, Fla., changed my mind. Truth be told, the Nieuw Amsterdam is a mid-sized ship, but it was my first experience aboard such a large ship with so many amenities.
It helped that cruise veteran and sister travel writer Shannon Hurst DalPozzal, shared my room. She knew the ins and outs of cruising and finding the quiet and still.
As for sunshine and warmth, the cruise delivered brilliant sunny days, spectacular sunsets, and daily temps in the 80s. Even better: Sea breezes cooled the evenings.
I dreaded boarding, as I’d heard it can be a loooonnngg process. We arrived around 11:45am and breezed not only through the registration and security but also right into our cabin. Holland America makes sure its cabins are available at check in, a nice plus. Our luggage appeared within an hour.
Our Verandah stateroom had twin beds, a nice closet area with a safe and robes, a bathroom with tub/shower, a desk, TV, a small sofa, and a large balcony with two chairs, a small table, and a footrest that doubled as a table. That balcony became our second home.
My smart-cookie roomie asked our cabin steward for ice for a bottle of Champagne she’d brought aboard (Passengers may bring aboard one bottle for consumption in their stateroom), and tipped him handsomely. Now gratuities are included, but as in any business, a welcoming smile and a little extra goes a long way. Our stewards never forgot our names and greeted us warmly whenever we crossed paths.
After the emergency drill, the cruise departed the dock, and the fun began.
Hungry for lunch, we bee-lined to the Lido Market, a mega buffet with plentiful stations and options. One look and I knew why people often gain weight on cruises. We picked up a sampling of salads and sushi and found a table shaded by an umbrella by one of the ship’s two pools.
The nearby New York pizza station caught our eye, and we ordered one to split. It was so good that later in the week we ordered another, which we enjoyed on our balcony.
Other food options available include a burger bar, a coffee and ice cream shop, and four restaurants with menus and wait service. The Dining Room is included, and we enjoyed breakfast there once (Dungeness crab benedict!) and dinner twice.
The other three restaurants have a surcharge: Pinnacle Grill (specializing in Pacific Northwest seafood, $35); Tamarind (Pan Asian, $25); and Canaletto (Italian, $15). Trust me, it’s worth the splurge. We dined at Canalleto and Tamarind. Both were very good, but Tamarind was exceptional, both in service and fare. Plus, opposite it on the same deck is a lovely lounge, where it feels as if you’re in a boutique hotel, not aboard a cruise ship.
And here’s a big perk: Room service is included. It seems especially indulgent to sit on the balcony in a robe and enjoy breakfast. Equally enjoyable and a nice respite was afternoon tea—one day with cookies, another with cheese and crackers.
Entertainment for all
Children 3-17 have Club HAL, a supervised program with dedicated spaces divided by age group.
En route to our first lunch, we viewed the art gallery and the Digital Workshop. After lunch, we toured the spa, with lounge areas, hot tub, steam room, and service rooms. Spacious, well-equipped fitness areas bookend the spa on one side. On the other is a pool rimmed with private cabanas, available for a surcharge.
On a walkabout, we passed the sports court and peeked into various entertainment venues: BB King Blues Club (live Memphis blues), the Screening Room (films), America’s Test Kitchen, Showroom at Sea theater, and the piano bar. Something is always happening somewhere, just show up and grab a seat.
Upon awakening the first morning, I went to the balcony and gazed at the 2-mile crescent of sand edging Holland America Line’s private Bahamian island, Half Moon Cay. Heaven! The previous evening, when our cabin steward had prepared our stateroom, he’d left towels for beach use.
I’d signed up for two shore excursions, and took an early tender to the island for my snorkeling experience, with all gear provided. Along with a couple dozen other passengers, I boarded an excursion boat that transported us to the far end of the beach. Here we plunged in for about 45 minutes of sheer bliss in the calm, clear waters above a reef and ruins.
The tram tour, my second excursion, introduced other island activities. If I cruise here again, I’d opt for a horseback ride. Another passenger who went told me that the ride followed the beach and included a short period in which the horses actually swam. That would have been a perfect pairing with my recent stay at White Stallion, an all-inclusive dude ranch in Tucson, Ariz. Another option that looked fun was swimming with stingrays. Sign me up!
Between excursions, we checked out the pirate ship bar, the included buffet, and the a la carte Lobster Shack; met Santa Clause, who was working on his tan and resting up for the big night ahead; browsed the marketplace stalls with straw products and Bahamian foods; and watched others who tried water bikes, paddleboards, sea kayaks, and other beach and water toys. Mostly, we simply relaxed in the abundant beach recliners.
Instead of booking shore excursions on Nassau, Shannon and I explored on our own. Despite four ships in port, December is quiet season here, so it was easy to move around, although some options weren’t open.
We learned the story behind the Queen’s Staircase from a native stationed near the entry and admired the fort and water tower and views from on high.
For lunch, we hoofed down to the Fish Fry. Few of the fish stalls and restaurants were open, but we found one, which claimed to be the original and had waterfront seating on its covered back deck.
In hindsight, I think it was the bar that was open, not the kitchen, but we weren’t turned away. We ordered conch fritters and a fish snack and waited. And waited. And waited. First came the fried fish snack (the way it was presented, it looked like quite the happy fish).
Then we waited again. I swear we watched as one of the cooks pulled a string of conch from the waters off an adjacent dock to make the fritters.
En route back to the ship, we couldn’t help but detour into Marshall’s one-man stand on Junkanoo Beach promising the world’s best pina coladas. We felt it was our duty to test the product to see if it met the claim. Marshall gladly whipped us two. Maybe it was just being in the right place at the right time, but we agreed that Marshall’s made a mean pina colada that ranked among the best we’d ever tasted.
Each day when we returned from our various off-ship adventures, smiling attendants welcomed us back aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam with cool, damp towels and cold lemonade. It was a nice perk, and as Shannon pointed out, one that the other ships in port didn’t offer.
Truth: I was really looking forward to this day with no agenda. I wanted to explore the ship and enjoy the amenities, as well as simply to relax and be in the moment.
By this time, I was in total relaxation mode. Thank goodness the elevator carpets change daily, or I wouldn’t have had a clue as to which day it was.
That afternoon, I discovered the shops aboard the ship. Since the Nieuw Amsterdam was heading into dry dock after this cruise for a facelift, the sales were enticing, and as the day progressed, they kept getting better.
About that facelift: Among the enhancements to be added are the Rijksmuseum at Sea, EXC Explorers Central, and two new music venues—world-class musicians will perform chamber music on Lincoln Center Stage, and the ship will rock at Billboard Onboard, with 50 years of chart-topping hits.
Day 5: Fort Lauderdale cruise port
The Nieuw Amsterdam docked around 6 am back in Fort Lauderdale. The ship plans an orderly disembarkation. Passengers are issued luggage tags and asked to leave their bags in the hall on the last night. They’re also given a time for disembarkation based upon their post-cruise activities or flights.
Hoping to talk our way into earlier flights home at the airport, we decided to handle our own luggage and disembark ahead of the organized groups.
My previous cruises, both of which I enjoyed immensely, were on far smaller ships: a Ponant cruise from Boston to Montreal and a Hurtigruten cruise from Kirkenes to Bergen, Norway. My fears of a bigger ship were allayed on this Holland America Line cruise. I now know that one can find quiet spots and intimate dining experiences even on a bigger ship.
If you’re a first-timer, find a cruise line that addresses your desires: destination, length, budget (inside cabins, and those without balconies cost less), size, and options, then give it a go. I’d definitely choose Holland America Line again, which, by the way, does offer a New England/maritime Canada itinerary that visits Maine. Alas, the water is a wee bit chillier, but the experiences are equally enriching.
I rekindled a childhood love of riding horses, savored warmth and sunshine, and appreciated the one-price-covers-almost-everything rates at the White Stallion Ranch in Tucson, Ariz. Enjoyed the four-day experience at this guest ranch with my gal-pals so much, I debated returning with my husband for the December special. (Seriously, check it out)
The second and third generations of the True family own and operate this dude ranch, which abuts Saguaro National Park and is a member of the Historic Hotels of America. No mistaking this for a corporate resort, the Trues are hands-on managers who treat guests as family. Solo travelers are welcomed to the fold by guests who’ve returned many times. I met folks from England, Scotland, Sweden, and beyond—some returning for their umpteenth visits, others first-timers who were already plotting their return.
As for me? After really rough year (broken shoulder, BernieDog’s passing, car accident, shingles), I was looking forward to four days of easy relaxing—gentle rides, poolside snoozes, treating myself to a massage—but this dude ranch’s inclusive choices kept me hopping.
Daily rides & activities for all abilities at the White Stallion dude Ranch
For starters, riding. Scooter (my assigned horse: I requested the slowest, gentlest possible) made it easy. I opted for two slow rides The first to a wine-and-cheese tasting at White Stallion’s desert oasis, complete with restrooms. The second through Movie Pass: More than 30 movies, along with the TV series High Chaparral, have been filmed at the ranch. I skipped a breakfast ride, but enjoyed the horse-drawn hayride to a barbecue lunch.
Usually about a half dozen rides are offered each day, including at least one slow ride and one fast ride. Some last 2-3 hours, others a half day, even a full day, a few are themed: Don’t like wine? Consider the beer & Cheetos ride. On one ride, guests see a rare variety of saguaro cactus.
Want to improve your horsemanship? Wranglers at the White Stallion dude ranch offers lessons for $20 pp for 50 minutes.
One afternoon, I watched more experienced guests participate in a timed, team-penning exercise. In this, teams of four riders worked to separate cattle out of a small herd and move them into a pen.
Another day, I met Wendy, a former professional animal trainer (lions!), and her horse, Lefty. Wendy showed me some of Lefty’s impressive skills, including playing a piano and differentiating between objects. For the latter, Wendy would hold an object in each hand and ask: “Lefty, where’s the cup?” And Lefty would look at each, then point his nose to the hand with the cup. As someone who struggled to teach her dog(s) basics, I was impressed.
During the weekly exhibition rodeo show, the owners, family, friends, and wranglers compete in barrel racing, team roping, and breakaway roping. Russ, one of the owners, narrates. He explains what’s going on and who’s who. It’s a fun and educational hour or so.
Don’t like to ride? Take a guided hike or nature walk. My friend Jackie hiked one morning. As the only one to sign up, she had the guide and his knowledge all to herself. The hike she chose was demanding, but manageable.
The options don’t end when the sun sets. Every evening, there’s an activity. I participated in a watercolor class in a conference room and learned line dancing on an outdoor patio.
On the night featuring desert creatures — thinks snakes, scorpions, spiders (shudder) — I opted for a massage with Mary, who I would title Mary the Magnificent. After it, I emerged to a star-spangled night with little light pollution; just spectacular.
The main lodge has plentiful areas to relax, including a lending library with a pool table, a bar with saddle seats, and a large living room with piano. Other amenities include: outdoor pool and hot tub, spa, butterfly garden, movie theater, tennis courts, outdoor sports court, kids’ game room, petting zoo, fitness studio, gift shop, yadda, yadda, yadda. No need to bring fancy clothes or even many casual ones—there’s a coin-op laundry on premises.
Have I mentioned the food, yet? When the bell rings, the spread is on. It’s always plentiful, usually includes a buffet, and always all you can eat.
A menu of hot items and a daily special (note: always check the special, each one I had was delicious) augments the breakfast buffet. Lunch options included expansive buffets with daily specials, packed lunches for rides, and a haywagon (or van) ride to another desert oasis for barbecued burgers and hot dogs, along with beans, salad, and dessert.
Before dinner each night, there’s a cocktail hour with hors d’oeuvres. The honor bar is open for whenever you crave something with alcohol. Just grab and note on a sheet. I think a glass of house wine was about $4 (unlike most resorts, which substantially mark up booze). When dark, I found it hard to resist the fire tables, which provide a little warmth on a cool desert eve.
Dinner always included a buffet, but usually with special extras. I was there for barbecued chicken and ribs and Mexican nights.
As for the accommodations, just perfect. Casitas offer standard rooms and family suites (1 room with king bed, other with twins and a couch with a twin mattress top), all with patios, individually controlled temperature, and wifi; none with TV. Each has a pleasant western decor and is updated about every three years. Also on the premises is a grand, multi-bedroom house, with a full kitchen and private patio area. It easily sleeps 13.
The ranch’s grounds are well tended with gardens, cactus with identification signs, and plentiful shade.
Although the feeling is remote, it’s fewer than 10 minutes off the highway, so you can be in downtown Tucson in about 20 minutes. Honestly, I loved this place, and I’m already plotting my return.
I don’t think one could find a more classic country inn in a more perfect location for leaf peeping than the Waterford Inne. This gently updated, early 19th-century farmhouse is sited on a country lane and surrounded by 25 acres of rolling woods and fields. Honestly, I half expected Bob Newhart to reprise his innkeeper role and walk through the door, that’s how authentic this lovely inn is.
Innkeeper Barbara Vanderzanden is one of Maine’s longest-running innkeepers, and her experience shows. This antiques-filled inn is not only warm and welcoming but also spotless. Public rooms include a great room with hearth, a parlor room, a dining room, a screened porch, and a cozy TV lounge. That TV is the only one in the inn. While I’m talking tech, don’t expect much of a cell signal or Internet, although Barbara is working with the cable company to bring the latter in).
Guest rooms are bright, airy, spacious, and furnished for comfort, with some ideal for families. One has a wood stove and private porch. Even dogs are welcome in some rooms ($25/night). Outside the rambling early 19th-century farmhouse is a huge red barn, which used to be twice its current size (ask Barbara about that), a pond, and fields edged by woods.
While you can easily head to Norway, Bridgton, Naples, or even North Conway for dinner, plan on at least one meal at the inn. Barbara prepares a scrumptious four-course dinner, by advance reservation, for $48 pp.
The rolling, lake-splashed countryside around Waterford is perfect for gazing at brilliant foliage without the crowds, poking around small villages, hiking and paddling, apple-picking, and just breathing in all that is wonderful about autumn in New England. Truthfully, it’s equally lovely in summer (when I visited), winter (skiing, snowshoeing), and spring.
The Waterford Inne’s western Maine location is well off the beaten path, despite being less than an hour from North Conway and fewer than 90 minutes from Portland, but sssh! don’t tell too many people about this hidden pocket.
Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier, of MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, discuss food trends, dish about local favorites, dish and chefs to watch and share their most memorable dining experiences in part 2 of my chat with the James Beard Award winners.
What trends do you see in food and dining in Maine and beyond?
Clark: We were pioneers in 1992, in what became the “farm-to-table” movement. This movement has become a bigger thing, a really great thing. A lot of young chefs are embracing it—some honestly, some paying lip service—but as a result, there are more local farmers, more dairies making cheese, more wineries and breweries. One of our former waiters started Casco Bay Butter. All those ancillary things are important. People went to France in the 1960s, and they talked about the markets, butter, cheese, wine—all the things that go with a great culinary experience. That’s what’s happening in Maine.
Mark: Maine chefs are using New England ingredients to make international cuisine. We travel a lot and we see Indian and other culinary influences. There are more eclectic and international restaurants. Now you can get good Thai food, wonderful Japanese cuisine, and more ethnic food in general in Maine. Some people are doing a great job.
Clark: And there’s more access to ingredients. There’s a real Indian market in Portsmouth. If we want mango powder or obscure ingredients, now we just go down there and find all sorts of weird things.
Mark: Diversity, we see the influences everywhere. Some execute them well, some don’t. Mexican food is all the rage now. It’s fascinating watching it change.
Clark: It’s interesting to see if prosperity continues, which is important for the restaurant scene. We’ve ridden out two serious recessions. One of the first things to go is dining out.
Mark: We saw that in this restaurant, and even more so at Arrows. We were well established; no doubt we were lucky.
Clark: It’s a hard biz; the profit margins are low. But look to the future during a recession; it will come again.
Are there any restaurant(s) or chefs along the southern Maine Coast or beyond that you think deserve(s) more notice?
Mark: Chef Lee Frank worked for us for a long time—great guy, great Chef—opened a restaurant, Otis, in Exeter, N.H. He just did a dinner at the Beard House, which is an initiation into the big time. I think he’s going to do really well. Also notable are Eben Hennessy, Stages at 1 Washington in Dover; Matt Lewis in Moxie, Franklin Oyster House; Gary Kim at Anju, in Kittery.
Clark: Kittery is becoming quite the scene.
Mark: And we’re really happy Eventide won the Beard Award. They’re doing a good job.
Clark: Cornerstone (Ogunquit) for pizza. They’re good friends, and it’s casual and fun.
Mark: Anju (Kittery) for noodles
Clark: Tulsi North (Wells) for Indian food.
Mark: Love Fisherman’s Catch (Wells). It’s a classic Maine fish shack.
Clark: Ocean at the Cape Arundel Inn (Kennebunkport) is our go-to for fine dining, white tablecloths, and good food. Pierre Gignac is making well-prepared interesting food; the best he’s ever done.
Mark: Love going to Pearl (Kennebunk’s Lower Village).
Mark: A number stand out, but one of my favorites was in Cairo, Egypt. We’d been traveling all over Egypt for a couple of weeks; can’t get a good martini, whatever, but the food was pretty good. Ended up at the Four Seasons at Nile Plaza, a Lebanese buffet restaurant. I’m like, this is going to be disgusting, no way. I was wrong. The food was 6 or 7 stars, off the chart. Everything cooked to order, beautifully presented. All Cairo-people were dining there. There was a huge female party from an Egyptian soap opera. And people from that neighborhood eating there. The food was unbelievable
We also had a flawless overall experience at Per Se during the downturn. We called on our way down—we were going down to do the Today Show. They got us in that night. It was 98 degrees in August. We went into the restaurant and entered another world. It overlooks Central Park. I had stopped drinking shortly before, and we were presented with a bottle of champagne, when I mentioned I didn’t drink, in a matter of a second, another glass of something that looked like champagne was presented. They didn’t miss a beat, not kidding. For every course, the waiter came out and poured an amazing nonalcoholic drink. Everything about the night was unbelievable; a lot of it was whimsical. It was just perfect, absolutely perfect.
Clark: When I was a teen, some friends and I went to Spain. We were driving and driving and arrived in an industrial hell hole, port city. We were exhausted, famished, and had no money; we were kids. Finally, we got to this row of crumby seashore places. We just picked one and went in. We were presented with huge menus, octopus to zebra. We kept saying: we’ll have this; the response: we don’t have that. It kept on, until finally we asked: What do you serve? Paella. Okay, we’ll have it. This was Spain; we waited 45 minutes. They came out with this huge mounded plate, an immense amount of food for three of us. It was so delicious, so perfect.
We had an amazing experience in Syria. We went to dinner at restaurant, where a group of about 20 guys were having a bachelor party dinner without the groom (as is the custom there). At that time, there were few Americans in Syria, and we didn’t blend in. The waiter brought a huge platter with lamb to the group, and we asked about it: What is it and what’s the tradition? All of a sudden, over came a whole platter from the bachelor party to us. I still get choked up thinking about it. It was one of the most kind, gracious, neighborly actions and the most impressive part of our whole trip. It said so much all the acrimony between West and East, Muslim and Christian. Here we were, obviously Americans and we we’re treated like brothers and friends.
Earlier this summer, I sat down with Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier, who won the James Beard Best Chef Northeast award for their late, great Arrows restaurant, in Ogunquit. Now, their efforts are concentrated at MC Perkins Cove. Here’s Part 1, where they dish about their journey to Arrows and from there to MC Perkins Cove.
In Part 2 of our conversation, they discuss food trends, local favorites, chefs to watch, and best-ever dining experiences.
Mark, you’re from Ohio, and Clark, you’re from California. How did you two end up in Ogunquit?
Mark: My sister was in Maine, and I lived in Blue Hill for a couple of summers in the late 1970s. I worked at the Whistling Oyster, knew of Arrows, and thought it would be lovely to own it. When I was 20-something, I moved to California. The inflight magazine had an article about Jeremiah Tower, and I went to work for him.
Clark: I met Mark in California. We tried to open a restaurant in Carmel, but the investors ran when they saw the money required. They weren’t going to spend a million on two kids in their 20s; no, not going to happen. We had no culinary school background, although we’d both worked in restaurants.
Mark: I had been a chef of sorts, but young and immature. I did work one summer at the Firepond (Blue Hill), in the late 70s, but I was the worst waiter, tables hissed at me. I can handle 400 dinners a night, but not one table in the dining room.
Clark: I did a lot of dish washing.
Mark: I was friends with the owners of Arrows, and one wintry evening, we visited it. I thought it was like The Shining, but Clark thought it was pretty cool. So we did it, came out a few weeks later, and started Arrows with a couple of credit cards, smoke, mirrors, and tape.
Clark: We didn’t have anything to lose.
You earned national fame with Arrows. Why did you downsize?
Mark: When we arrived, Arrows was a beautiful farmhouse, but it was a wreck. The infrastructure needed a lot of work. That’s when we started 25 years of sinking money into an empty house, but Arrows also was a springboard for everything else we accomplished, so it was exciting: our first book in 2002; opening MC Perkins Cove in 2005; having a restaurant in Burlington, Mass., and one in Boston at Seaport; winning the 2010 James Beard Best Chefs Northeast award; one of the first episodes of Top Chef Masters in 2012…we did all that and Arrows. It was a lot going on.
Clark: We ran Arrows for 25 years. It took a lot of work and energy and required day-to-day hands on. There was no way to run that level of restaurant without the guests expecting perfection, and we were expecting it, too. It became difficult to continue. At least ¾ of my energy went into Arrows, Mark was at MC, and we had the two other projects.
Mark: We were ready to scale back: 25 years is a good run. It was a hard decision, but once made, we never looked back.
Clark: We had a big party: Jeremiah Tower was there, Barbara Fairchild, loads of Top Chef Masters—it was an awesome party and we closed two weeks later. Perfect. Now this (MC Perkins Cove) is our primary and only.
Mark: I love it. It’s really nice because Clark and I can really focus on this. Clark can go out in front of house and talk to people. Before, Clark was here a couple of days a week, which wasn’t much time to work with front of house staff or the chefs. Now, we feel very in control of our restaurant. It’s like we want it to be.
Clark: We have a really great group of people, and we have the time to work with them. The staff and guests like it.
Mark: We’re not young rock and rollers, we’re mature chefs. I’m comfy with that right now. Would I want to open another big restaurant? I don’t know. If given the right opportunity perhaps, but I don’t want to destroy my health or risk money.
Acadia National Park’s popularity is causing crowds and congestion, but you can escape all that an still enjoy the park on Acadia’s Quiet Side. The first two weeks of August are the peak of peak season in Maine, and that’s especially true on Mount Desert Island and in Acadia National Park. Want to slip away and yet still enjoy the park and island splendors? I did just that recently on Acadia’s Quiet Side. (updated Aug. 10, 2019)
Mount Desert Island’s western half (a.k.a. the Quiet Side), comprising Southwest Harbor, Tremont, and parts of Mount Desert, receives far less traffic than Bar Harbor and the island’s eastern side. That said, even on a perfect August day, it can seem difficult to escape at all. I did, and here’s how.
Necessities: Although off-the-beaten-path, you’ll still need a park pass to enjoy these areas, so be sure to have it with you. Also helpful are the park’s map as well as a current copy of the Quietside Trail Map, published by the Southwest Harbor & Tremont Chamber of Commerce and widely available in the area.
Acadia National Park
Pretty Marsh and Long Pond Fire Road
Lose the crowds with a picnic at Pretty Marsh walk or pedal on the Hio Fire/Truck Road in Acadia National Park.
You can easily spend a few hours, if not the better part of a day, hiking, biking, picnicking, even swimming, in these two sections of Acadia National Park, both accessed off Route 102.
Pretty Marsh Picnic Area
The Pretty Marsh Picnic Area edges Pretty Marsh Harbor, with views over Bartlett Island and out to Folly and Hardwood Islands. A few sites are along the area’s road, but the best ones require ambling down the fire road to the shore. Here you’ll find a pavilion sheltering two tables, with an adjacent grill, and a trail to tables and grills tucked along the shoreline.
Behind the pavilion, a stairway descends to a rocky beach—great for beachcombing or perhaps even braving swim (hint: the water’s always warmer on a late-morning or afternoon incoming tide, as the sun-heated rocks and gravel warm the water a few degrees). There are toilets available here.
Long Pond Fire Road
The 4.3-mile Long Pond Fire Road loops off Route 102 (take the first, unsigned road south of Pretty Marsh Picnic Area or access it off Hodgdon Road, a little over a mile south of the picnic area). The maintained gravel road loops out to Long Pond and back. You can break for a swim in the pond.
If you’re biking, you can close the loop with a short section on Route 102. The terrain is moderate, with many long hills; spruce and fir trees line most of the route, and you’ll pass boggy areas as well as a few ponds. This is prime moose territory, so be on the lookout for the gangly beasts. If you see one, observe it from a distance; if it starts coming toward you, move away quietly.
Great Notch Trail
If you access the Long Pond Fire Road from Hodgdon Road, keep an eye out for a road on the left that leads to a parking area (park here or at Pretty Marsh if biking) for the Great Notch Trail (white-broken line on map) . You’ll likely run into few others along this moderate trail. From the parking area, it’s 1.1 miles though gorgeous forested lands to the intersection with the Long Pond Trail. Bear left there to continue almost 1.5-mles to the pond, where it continues, edging the shoreline for roughly another 1.5 miles. Cool off with a swim (note: if you hike along the shoreline, swimming isn’t permitted within 0.7-mile of the southern end).
Bass Harbor Marsh
Lose the crowds with a walk or pedal on the Hio or Marshall Fire/Truck Roads in Acadia National Park (Marshall indicated but untitled on map) or with a paddle in Bass Harbor Marsh.
Birders, especially, appreciate Bass Harbor Marsh, a tidal marsh within the park. According to Audubon, it’s a breeding area for American black ducks and Nelson’s sharp-tailed sparrows, and sightings here may include such rarities such as the least bittern, as well as blue herons, eagles, and osprey.
You can walk or pedal into the marsh along the park’s 1.3-mile Marshall Brook fire road. To find it, take the Seal Cove Road, just north downtown Southwest Harbor. When you enter the park, it’ll be the first road on the left.
Another option, if you have access to a canoe or kayak, is paddling. Access it from the Route 102 bridge in Tremont, about 2 miles south of the intersection with Route 102A in Southwest Harbor. Paddle the open tidal section of the marsh and continue northward, keeping right and staying on the main channel of Marshall Brook.
Hio Fire Road
Immerse into the Big Heath with an easy walk or bike ride on the park’s Hio fire road (also called Hio Truck Road and simply Hio Road). The road, gated at both ends, skirts the Big Heath, a glacial-formed peat bog that’s home to insect-eating plants including the pitcher plant, and it passes through moss-rich, lush woodlands comprising spruce, red and white pine, and balsam fir, along with birch, maple, and cedar. Keep an eye out for animal tracks. The Hio Road runs 2 miles between the back of the Seawall Campground on Route 102A and Route 102, just north of bridge crossing the Bass Harbor Marsh.
This vest-pocket seaside park was donated to the town in 1973, and the butterfly garden was established in 1998 to promote conservation education. The park is seldom busy, and it’s a delightful place to enjoy a picnic or simply gaze out over water amidst flowers and butterflies. A $5 donation per family admission is requested; put it in the donation box.
A kiosk is stocked with butterfly observation sheets, and there’s usually a volunteer docent on duty, 9:30-11:30am Thursdays. Garden Tours, often themed, happen at 10:30 Wednesdays through late August, check the website for details ($5 donation).
Note: An annual butterfly release happens in July. Reservations are required.
Find the park is on the waterside of Route 102 between the Causeway Golf Club and the Seal Cove Road.
Here’s a fun spot that few visitors to Mount Desert Island find. A pedestrian causeway bridges Norwood Cove, linking North and South Causeway Lanes. To find it, take Fernald Point Road off Route 102 (turn at the Causeway Golf Club) and then take your first right. Walk on the water side of the tennis courts, pass the pool, and continue. You’ll see the path ahead of you. At low tide, there’s a gravel beach area. When the tide changes, the water rushes under the bridge section.
On the west side, walk straight and follow the road, which ends at High Road. Turn right and it flows into Clark Point Road at a five-way stop. Make a sharp right on Herrick, which bends around and meets Route 102 at the corner with the Wendell Gilley Museum (definitely worth a visit) or go straight into downtown. You can easily walk this in a loop from downtown Southwest Harbor that includes the butterfly garden and the museum, but be careful on the short section of Route 102 without a sidewalk.
If you’re going to play in the park, your best option is a picnic. If you prefer to eat at a restaurant, aim to arrive around 11:30 or after 1:30 to avoid the crowds.
Seafood Ketch, Bass Harbor: I arrived with a friend here at 11:30 and there were only two tables taken, so we snagged a primo table on the patio overlooking the lobsterboat-filled harbor with a mountain backdrop. When we left an hour later, there still were outside tables available, as well as plenty inside.
Honestly, it would be easy to simply hang out here and drink in the views. The food and service are excellent, and the prices very fair. Choices are abundant–from sandwiches and chowders to full meals.
The Boathouse at The Claremont, Southwest Harbor: Not too many people seek out The Boathouse at the Claremont for lunch, which has been my good fortune. I love this grande olde dame of a hotel, which overlooks the mouth of Somes Sound.
Between the hotel and the waterfront are the regulation croquet courts. Below them and hanging over the water at high tide is The Boathouse, a small restaurant with to-die-for views. The menu (link on website) isn’t big, the prices are on the higher side of moderate, but for this location, it’s worth it. (Note: It’s small, so you might want to arrive after peak dining hours)
Quietside Cafe, Southwest Harbor: Everything at this little cafe is made from scratch and delicious and very reasonable. Try the soups and chowders, but don’t miss the usuals, but always save room for dessert.
After a good hike, I’ll stop here for some of Frances’ sky-high blueberry pie or her delicious key lime pie—try it with the chocolate crust. There’s seating indoors and outside.
Eat-A-Pita/Cafe 2, Southwest Harbor: If I’m headed into the park, I’ll stop here for a pita sandwich-to-go (with a bunch of napkins) to enjoy as a picnic.
If I’m passing early or late, I’ll have lunch here at one of the sidewalk tables. Great menu, good service, nice people.
Manset Little Farm, Southwest Harbor: NOTE: Stand not open this season, but she’s selling her cookies at Sawyer’s Market downtown; it’s wise to get there early, as they usually sell out.
The first time I stopped here, I gasped at the $4/cookie price. A bought one, drove off, split it in half to share with a friend, took one bite, and turned around. Yeah, it was that good. Another friend, a professional chef and whoopie pie aficionado, proclaimed the $4.50 version made here the best she’d ever had.
Maureen McDonald not only makes every batch with love, she uses the best ingredients: organic when possible, Nielsen-Massey Madagascar vanilla, pure cane sugar, etc. One of the few exceptions for organic is butter. “I use Land O’Lakes butter because I don’t want to raise the price above $4,” she told me. Fine by me.
