Arizona’s White Stallion dude ranch delivers all-inclusive fun

A wrangler-guided ride in the Arizona desert returns to White Stallion dude ranch. © Hilary Nangle
Numerous wrangler-guided rides are offered daily at Tucson’s family owned White Stallion, a dude ranch on the outskirts of Tucson. © Hilary Nangle

I rekindled a childhood love of riding horses, savored warmth and sunshine, and appreciated the one-price-covers-almost-everything rates at the White Stallion Ranch in Tucson, Ariz. Enjoyed the four-day experience at this guest ranch with my gal-pals so much, I debated returning with my husband for the December special. (Seriously, check it out)

The second and third generations of the True family own and operate this dude ranch, which abuts Saguaro National Park and is a member of the Historic Hotels of America. No mistaking this for a corporate resort, the Trues are hands-on managers who treat guests as family. Solo travelers are welcomed to the fold by guests who’ve returned many times. I met folks from England, Scotland, Sweden, and beyond—some returning for their umpteenth visits, others first-timers who were already plotting their return.

As for me? After really rough year (broken shoulder, BernieDog’s passing, car accident, shingles), I was looking forward to four days of easy relaxing—gentle rides, poolside snoozes, treating myself to a massage—but this dude ranch’s inclusive choices kept me hopping.

Ride to a pass where many famous westerns were filmed at White Stallion dude ranch, ©Hilary Nangle
Slow walking ride to Movie Pass with a wrangler from White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle

Daily rides & activities for all abilities at the White Stallion dude Ranch

For starters, riding. Scooter (my assigned horse: I requested the slowest, gentlest possible) made it easy. I opted for two slow rides The first to a wine-and-cheese tasting at White Stallion’s desert oasis, complete with restrooms. The second through Movie Pass: More than 30 movies, along with the TV series High Chaparral, have been filmed at the ranch. I skipped a breakfast ride, but enjoyed the horse-drawn hayride to a barbecue lunch.

Enjoy an easy ride to a sheltered pavillion with restrooms available on the Wne & Cheese Tasting ride ©Hilary Nangle
Wine & Cheese Tasting at the White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle

Usually about a half dozen rides are offered each day, including at least one slow ride and one fast ride. Some last 2-3 hours, others a half day, even a full day, a few are themed: Don’t like wine? Consider the beer & Cheetos ride. On one ride, guests see a rare variety of saguaro cactus.

Want to improve your horsemanship? Wranglers at the White Stallion dude ranch offers lessons for $20 pp for 50 minutes.

A variety of rides are offered daily at the White Stallion dude ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Trail rides from White Stallion Ranch take in Arizona’s gorgeous desert cactus. ©Hilary Nangle
Some guests participate in team penning, others watch the action at the White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Guests participating in Team Penning at the White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle

One afternoon, I watched more experienced guests participate in a timed, team-penning exercise. In this, teams of four riders worked to separate cattle out of a small herd and move them into a pen.

Another day, I met Wendy, a former professional animal trainer (lions!), and her horse, Lefty. Wendy showed me some of Lefty’s impressive skills, including playing a piano and differentiating between objects. For the latter, Wendy would hold an object in each hand and ask: “Lefty, where’s the cup?” And Lefty would look at each, then point his nose to the hand with the cup. As someone who struggled to teach her dog(s) basics, I was impressed.

One don't miss weekly event at the White Stallion dude ranch is the rodeo. ©Hilary Nangle
Each week White Stallion Ranch presents a rodeo, with family, friends, and wranglers demonstrating the events and their skills. ©Hilary Nangle

During the weekly exhibition rodeo show, the owners, family,  friends, and wranglers compete in barrel racing, team roping, and breakaway roping. Russ, one of the owners, narrates. He explains what’s going on and who’s who. It’s a fun and educational hour or so.

There's always something to do at White Stallion dude ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Guests can visit the petting zoo and partake in activities such as line dancing and painting classes or not. ©Hilary Nangle

Walks, hikes, and other off-horse options

Don’t like to ride? Take a guided hike or nature walk. My friend Jackie hiked one morning. As the only one to sign up, she had the guide and his knowledge all to herself. The hike she chose was demanding, but manageable.

Ride a wagon to lunch in the desert. ©Hilary Nangle
Wagon rides are another fun option at White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle

The options don’t end when the sun sets. Every evening, there’s an activity. I participated in a watercolor class in a conference room and learned line dancing on an outdoor patio.

On the night featuring desert creatures — thinks snakes, scorpions, spiders (shudder) — I opted for a massage with Mary, who I would title Mary the Magnificent. After it, I emerged to a star-spangled night with little light pollution; just spectacular.

The main lodge has plentiful areas to relax, including a lending library with a pool table, a bar with saddle seats, and a large living room with piano. Other amenities include: outdoor pool and hot tub, spa, butterfly garden, movie theater, tennis courts, outdoor sports court, kids’ game room, petting zoo, fitness studio, gift shop, yadda, yadda, yadda. No need to bring fancy clothes or even many casual ones—there’s a coin-op laundry on premises.

It's all-you-can-eat at the White Stallion dude ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Meals are a highlight at the White Stallion, a dude ranch abutting Saguaro National Park in Tucson. ©Hilary Nangle

You won’t go hungry at this dude ranch

Have I mentioned the food, yet? When the bell rings, the spread is on. It’s always plentiful, usually includes a buffet, and always all you can eat.

A menu of hot items and a daily special (note: always check the special, each one I  had was delicious) augments the breakfast buffet. Lunch options included expansive buffets with daily specials, packed lunches for rides, and a haywagon (or van) ride to another desert oasis for barbecued burgers and hot dogs, along with beans, salad, and dessert.

Before dinner each night, there’s a cocktail hour with hors d’oeuvres. The honor bar is open for whenever you crave something with alcohol. Just grab and note on a sheet. I think a glass of house wine was about $4 (unlike most resorts, which substantially mark up booze). When  dark, I found it hard to resist the fire tables, which provide a little warmth on a cool desert eve.

Dinner always included a buffet, but usually with special extras. I was there for barbecued chicken and ribs and Mexican nights.

You can roll out of bed and greet the horses or savor the desert sunset at White Stallion Ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Guests at the White Stallion dude ranch stay in private casitas set amidst cactus gardens and adjacent to the pastures. ©Hilary Nangle

Sweet dreams

As for the accommodations, just perfect. Casitas offer standard rooms and family suites (1 room with king bed, other with twins and a couch with a twin mattress top), all with patios, individually controlled temperature, and wifi; none with TV. Each has a pleasant western decor and is updated about every three years. Also on the premises is a grand, multi-bedroom house, with a full kitchen and private patio area. It easily sleeps 13.

The ranch’s grounds are well tended with gardens, cactus with identification signs, and plentiful shade.

Although the feeling is remote, it’s fewer than 10 minutes off the highway, so you can be in downtown Tucson in about 20 minutes. Honestly, I loved this place, and I’m already plotting my return.

After the ride, return to relax at the White Stallion dude ranch. ©Hilary Nangle
Kick back at White Stallion Ranch, a family owned dude ranch abutting Saguaro National Park in Tucson, Arizona.©Hilary Nangle

 

 

 

 

 

Perfect Maine foliage escape: Waterford Inne

Seeking the perfect country inn? Maine's Waterford Inne is it. ©Hilary Nangle img_9374
The early 19th-century Waterford Inne is set on 25 country acres in western Maine’s mountains. ©Hilary Nangle
Plan a country getaway to Maine's Waterford Inne. ©Hilary Nangle img_9381-1
Seeking the perfect classic country inn? Find it at Maine’s Waterford Inne. ©Hilary Nangle

UPDATE: The Waterford Inne has new owners

I don’t think one could find a more classic country inn in a more perfect location for leaf peeping than the Waterford Inne. This gently updated, early 19th-century farmhouse is sited on a country lane and surrounded by 25 acres of rolling woods and fields. Honestly, I half expected Bob Newhart to reprise his innkeeper role and walk through the door, that’s how authentic this lovely inn is.

You'll find plenty of places to relax inside Maine's Waterford Inne. ©Hilary Nangle img_9402
One of the public rooms at the Waterford Inne in Waterford, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Innkeeper Barbara Vanderzanden is one of Maine’s longest-running innkeepers, and her experience shows. This antiques-filled inn is not only warm and welcoming but also spotless. Public rooms include a great room with hearth, a parlor room, a dining room, a screened porch, and a cozy TV lounge. That TV is the only one in the inn. While I’m talking tech, don’t expect much of a cell signal or Internet, although Barbara is working with the cable company to bring the latter in).

Some guest rooms have working fireplaces at the Waterford Inne, in Waterford Maine. ©Hilary Nangle img_9381
No two guest rooms at the Waterford Inne are alike in decor, but all are comfy. ©Hilary Nangle

Guest rooms are bright, airy, spacious, and furnished for comfort, with some ideal for families. One has a wood stove and private porch. Even dogs are welcome in some rooms ($25/night). Outside the rambling early 19th-century farmhouse is a huge red barn, which used to be twice its current size (ask Barbara about that), a pond, and fields edged by woods.

Four-season escape

Even if you're not staying at the Waterford Inne, you can reserved dinner here. ©Hilary Nangle img_9368
Be sure to reserve at least one dinner at the Waterford Inne, a four-course indulgence. ©Hilary Nangle

While you can easily head to Norway, Bridgton, Naples, or even North Conway for dinner, plan on at least one meal at the inn. Barbara prepares a scrumptious four-course dinner, by advance reservation, for $48 pp.

The rolling, lake-splashed countryside around Waterford is perfect for gazing at brilliant foliage without the crowds, poking around small villages, hiking and paddling, apple-picking, and just breathing in all that is wonderful about autumn in New England. Truthfully, it’s equally lovely in summer (when I visited), winter (skiing, snowshoeing), and spring.

The Waterford Inne’s western Maine location is well off the beaten path, despite being less than an hour from North Conway and fewer than 90 minutes from Portland, but sssh! don’t tell too many people about this hidden pocket.

Slip away to western Maine's mountains at the Waterford Inne, in Waterford. ©Hilary Nangle img_9379
Children and pets are welcome at the Waterford Inne, where there’s plenty of outdoor space. ©Hilary Nangle

 

Q&A: Talking food with Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier

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Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier on the oceanfront deck of MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle
Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier talk food on the deck of their restaurant MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier, of MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, discuss food trends, dish about local favorites, dish and chefs to watch and share their most memorable dining experiences in part 2 of my chat with the James Beard Award winners.

In part 1, Mark & Clark shared their journey to Arrows and from there to MC Perkins Cove.

What trends do you see in food and dining in Maine and beyond?

Clark: We were pioneers in 1992, in what became the “farm-to-table” movement. This movement has become a bigger thing, a really great thing. A lot of young chefs are embracing it—some honestly, some paying lip service—but as a result, there are more local farmers, more dairies making cheese, more wineries and breweries. One of our former waiters started Casco Bay Butter. All those ancillary things are important. People went to France in the 1960s, and they talked about the markets, butter, cheese, wine—all the things that go with a great culinary experience. That’s what’s happening in Maine.

Mark: Maine chefs are using New England ingredients to make international cuisine. We travel a lot and we see Indian and other culinary influences. There are more eclectic and international restaurants. Now you can get good Thai food, wonderful Japanese cuisine, and more ethnic food in general in Maine. Some people are doing a great job.

Clark: And there’s more access to ingredients. There’s a real Indian market in Portsmouth. If we want mango powder or obscure ingredients, now we just go down there and find all sorts of weird things.

Mark: Diversity, we see the influences everywhere. Some execute them well, some don’t. Mexican food is all the rage now. It’s fascinating watching it change.

Clark: It’s interesting to see if prosperity continues, which is important for the restaurant scene. We’ve ridden out two serious recessions. One of the first things to go is dining out.

Mark: We saw that in this restaurant, and even more so at Arrows. We were well established; no doubt we were lucky.

Clark: It’s a hard biz; the profit margins are low. But look to the future during a recession; it will come again.

Are there any restaurant(s) or chefs along the southern Maine Coast or beyond that you think deserve(s) more notice?

Mark: Chef Lee Frank worked for us for a long time—great guy, great Chef—opened a restaurant, Otis, in Exeter, N.H. He just did a dinner at the Beard House, which is an initiation into the big time. I think he’s going to do really well. Also notable are Eben Hennessy, Stages at 1 Washington in Dover; Matt Lewis in Moxie, Franklin Oyster House; Gary Kim at Anju, in Kittery.

Clark: Kittery is becoming quite the scene.

Mark: And we’re really happy Eventide won the Beard Award. They’re doing a good job.

Where do you dine when you have a night off? 

Chef Pierre Gignac prepares excellent fare at Ocean in the Cape Arundel Inn. ©Tom Nangle
Ocean at the Cape Arundel Inn, in Kennebunkport, is Mark & Clark’s go-to for fine dining. ©Tom Nangle

Clark: Cornerstone (Ogunquit) for pizza. They’re good friends, and it’s casual and fun.

Mark: Anju (Kittery) for noodles

Clark: Tulsi North (Wells) for Indian food.

Mark: Love Fisherman’s Catch (Wells). It’s a classic Maine fish shack.

Clark: Ocean at the Cape Arundel Inn (Kennebunkport) is our go-to for fine dining, white tablecloths, and good food. Pierre Gignac is making well-prepared interesting food; the best he’s ever done.

Mark: Love going to Pearl (Kennebunk’s Lower Village).

Favorite meal anywhere, anytime

Mark Gaier.
Mark Gaier, chef-owner of MC Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Mark: A number stand out, but one of my favorites was in Cairo, Egypt. We’d been traveling all over Egypt for a couple of weeks; can’t get a good martini, whatever, but the food was pretty good. Ended up at the Four Seasons at Nile Plaza, a Lebanese buffet restaurant. I’m like, this is going to be disgusting, no way. I was wrong. The food was 6 or 7 stars, off the chart. Everything cooked to order, beautifully presented. All Cairo-people were dining there. There was a huge female party from an Egyptian soap opera. And people from that neighborhood eating there. The food was unbelievable

We also had a flawless overall experience at Per Se during the downturn. We called on our way down—we were going down to do the Today Show. They got us in that night. It was 98 degrees in August. We went into the restaurant and entered another world. It overlooks Central Park. I had stopped drinking shortly before, and we were presented with a bottle of champagne, when I mentioned I didn’t drink, in a matter of a second, another glass of something that looked like champagne was presented.  They didn’t miss a beat, not kidding. For every course, the waiter came out and poured an amazing nonalcoholic drink. Everything about the night was unbelievable; a lot of it was whimsical. It was just perfect, absolutely perfect.

Clark Frasier
Clark Frasier, chef-owner of MC Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Clark: When I was a teen, some friends and I went to Spain. We were driving and driving and arrived in an industrial hell hole, port city. We were exhausted, famished, and had no money; we were kids. Finally, we got to this row of crumby seashore places. We just picked one and went in. We were presented with huge menus, octopus to zebra. We kept saying: we’ll have this; the response: we don’t have that. It kept on, until finally we asked: What do you serve? Paella. Okay, we’ll have it. This was Spain; we waited 45 minutes. They came out with this huge mounded plate, an immense amount of food for three of us. It was so delicious, so perfect.

We had an amazing experience in Syria. We went to dinner at restaurant, where a group of about 20 guys were having a bachelor party dinner without the groom (as is the custom there). At that time, there were few Americans in Syria, and we didn’t blend in. The waiter brought a huge platter with lamb to the group, and we asked about it: What is it and what’s the tradition? All of a sudden, over came a whole platter from the bachelor party to us. I still get choked up thinking about it. It was one of the most kind, gracious, neighborly actions and the most impressive part of our whole trip. It said so much all the acrimony between West and East, Muslim and Christian. Here we were, obviously Americans and we we’re treated like brothers and friends.

Q&A: Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier

Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier on the deck at MC Perkins Cove. ©Hilary Nangle
James Beard Award-winning chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier on the deck at MC Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Earlier this summer, I sat down with Chefs Mark Gaier & Clark Frasier, who won the James Beard Best Chef Northeast award for their late, great Arrows restaurant, in Ogunquit. Now, their efforts are concentrated at MC Perkins Cove. Here’s Part 1, where they dish about their journey to Arrows and from there to MC Perkins Cove.

In Part 2 of our conversation, they discuss food trends, local favorites, chefs to watch, and  best-ever dining experiences.

Mark, you’re from Ohio, and Clark, you’re from California. How did you two end up in Ogunquit?

The Lobster Cocktail at MC Perkins Cove. ©Hilary Nangle
Cheers! Here’s to the new deck at MC Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Mark: My sister was in Maine, and I lived in Blue Hill for a couple of summers in the late 1970s. I worked at the Whistling Oyster, knew of Arrows, and thought it would be lovely to own it. When I was 20-something, I moved to California. The inflight magazine had an article about Jeremiah Tower, and I went to work for him.

Clark: I  met Mark in California. We tried to open a restaurant in Carmel, but the investors ran when they saw the money required. They weren’t going to spend a million on two kids in their 20s; no, not going to happen. We had no culinary school background, although we’d both worked in restaurants.

Mark: I had been a chef of sorts, but young and immature. I did work one summer at the Firepond (Blue Hill), in the late 70s, but I was the worst waiter, tables hissed at me. I can handle 400 dinners a night, but not one table in the dining room.

Clark: I did a lot of dish washing.

Mark: I was friends with the owners of Arrows, and one wintry evening, we visited it. I thought it was like The Shining, but Clark thought it was pretty cool. So we did it, came out a few weeks later, and started Arrows with a couple of credit cards, smoke, mirrors, and tape.

Clark: We didn’t have anything to lose.

You earned national fame with Arrows. Why did you downsize?

The late, great Arrows Restaurant. ©Hilary Nangle
Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier turned a rundown farmhouse on the outskirts of Ogunquit into one of America’s best restaurants. ©Hilary Nangle

Mark: When we arrived, Arrows was a beautiful farmhouse, but it was a wreck. The infrastructure needed a lot of work. That’s when we started 25 years of sinking money into an empty house, but Arrows also was a springboard for everything else we accomplished, so it was exciting: our first book in 2002; opening MC Perkins Cove in 2005; having a restaurant in Burlington, Mass., and one in Boston at Seaport; winning the 2010 James Beard Best Chefs Northeast award; one of the first episodes of Top Chef Masters in 2012…we did all that and Arrows. It was a lot going on.

Clark: We ran Arrows for 25 years. It took a lot of work and energy and required day-to-day hands on. There was no way to run that level of restaurant without the guests expecting perfection, and we were expecting it, too. It became difficult to continue. At least ¾ of my energy went into Arrows, Mark was at MC, and we had the two other projects.

Mark: We were ready to scale back: 25 years is a good run. It was a hard decision, but once made, we never looked back.

Clark: We had a big party: Jeremiah Tower was there, Barbara Fairchild, loads of Top Chef Masters—it was an awesome party and we closed two weeks later. Perfect. Now this (MC Perkins Cove) is our primary and only.

What’s happening with MC Perkins Cove?

MC Perkins Cove added deck dining in 2017. ©Hilary Nangle
Ocean waves are background music when dining on the new deck at MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

Mark: I love it. It’s really nice because Clark and I can really focus on this. Clark can go out in front of house and talk to people. Before, Clark was here a couple of days a week, which wasn’t much time to work with front of house staff or the chefs. Now, we feel very in control of our restaurant. It’s like we want it to be.

Clark: We have a really great group of people, and we have the time to work with them. The staff and guests like it.

Mark: We’re not young rock and rollers, we’re mature chefs. I’m comfy with that right now. Would I want to open another big restaurant? I don’t know. If given the right opportunity perhaps, but I don’t want to destroy my health or risk money.

Eye candy raw bar at MC Perkins Cove. ©Hilary Nangle
Raw bar on the new deck at MC Perkins Cove. Just try to resist. ©Hilary Nangle

Clark: This year we opened the deck. It’s been engineered from the bottom up and it took 1.5 years from planning to opening.

Mark: For 10 years, having an outside deck wasn’t an option, but the code changed.

Clark: Our guests are right on ocean looking out. It’s the intimacy of it; you don’t notice people on either side.

Mark: It’s very very exciting for us; like opening a mini new restaurant.

Clark: People love the raw bar. They walk up and exclaim: Oh my god we must have oysters!

The new deck at MC Perkins Cove. ©Hilary Nangle
Dining on the deck at MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. ©Hilary Nangle

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Escape peak season crowds on Acadia’s Quiet Side

Pretty Marsh is perhaps Acadia's least-crowded picnic area. ©Hilary Nangle
Rarely crowded, Acadia National Park’s Pretty Marsh Picnic Area has a covered pavilion as well as other shore-front picnic tables with grills. ©Hilary Nangle

Acadia National Park’s popularity is causing crowds and congestion, but you can escape all that an still enjoy the park on Acadia’s Quiet Side. The first two weeks of August are the peak of peak season in Maine, and that’s especially true on Mount Desert Island and in Acadia National Park. Want to slip away and yet still enjoy the park and island splendors? I did just that recently on Acadia’s Quiet Side. (updated Aug. 10, 2019)

Mount Desert Island’s western half (a.k.a. the Quiet Side), comprising Southwest Harbor, Tremont, and parts of Mount Desert, receives far less traffic than Bar Harbor and the island’s eastern side. That said, even on a perfect August day, it can seem difficult to escape at all. I did, and here’s how.

Necessities: Although off-the-beaten-path, you’ll still need a park pass to enjoy these areas, so be sure to have it with you. Also helpful are the park’s map as well as a current copy of the Quietside Trail Map, published by the Southwest Harbor & Tremont Chamber of Commerce and widely available in the area.

Acadia National Park

Pretty Marsh and Long Pond Fire Road

Immerse in the quiet side of the park on a busy day.
Lose the crowds with a picnic at Pretty Marsh walk or pedal on the Hio Fire/Truck Road in Acadia National Park.

You can easily spend a few hours, if not the better part of a day, hiking, biking, picnicking, even swimming, in these two sections of Acadia National Park, both accessed off Route 102.

Pretty Marsh Picnic Area

The Pretty Marsh Picnic Area edges Pretty Marsh Harbor, with views over Bartlett Island and out to Folly and Hardwood Islands. A few sites are along the area’s road, but the best ones require ambling down the fire road to the shore. Here you’ll find a pavilion sheltering two tables, with an adjacent grill, and a trail to tables and grills tucked along the shoreline.

A stairway behind the pavilion at Acadia National Park’s Pretty Marsh Picnic Area accesses the shore. ©Hilary Nangle

Behind the pavilion, a stairway descends to a rocky beach—great for beachcombing or perhaps even braving swim (hint: the water’s always warmer on a late-morning or afternoon incoming tide, as the sun-heated rocks and gravel warm the water a few degrees). There are toilets available here.

Long Pond Fire Road

The 4.3-mile Long Pond Fire Road loops off Route 102 (take the first, unsigned road south of Pretty Marsh Picnic Area or access it off Hodgdon Road, a little over a mile south of the picnic area). The maintained gravel road loops out to Long Pond and back. You can break for a swim in the pond.

If you’re biking, you can close the loop with a short section on Route 102. The terrain is moderate, with many long hills; spruce and fir trees line most of the route, and you’ll pass boggy areas as well as a few ponds. This is prime moose territory, so be on the lookout for the gangly beasts. If you see one, observe it from a distance; if it starts coming toward you, move away quietly.

Great Notch Trail

If you access the Long Pond Fire Road from Hodgdon Road, keep an eye out for a road on the left that leads to a parking area (park here or at Pretty Marsh if biking) for the Great Notch Trail (white-broken line on map) . You’ll likely run into few others along this moderate trail. From the parking area, it’s  1.1 miles though gorgeous forested lands to the intersection with the Long Pond Trail. Bear left there to continue almost 1.5-mles to the pond, where it continues, edging the shoreline for roughly another 1.5 miles. Cool off with a swim (note: if you hike along the shoreline, swimming isn’t permitted within  0.7-mile of the southern end).

Bass Harbor Marsh

Immerse in the quiet side of the park.
Lose the crowds with a walk or pedal on the Hio or Marshall Fire/Truck Roads in Acadia National Park (Marshall indicated but untitled on map) or with a paddle in Bass Harbor Marsh.

Birders, especially, appreciate Bass Harbor Marsh, a tidal marsh within the park. According to Audubon, it’s a breeding area for American black ducks and Nelson’s sharp-tailed sparrows, and sightings here may include such rarities such as the least bittern, as well as blue herons, eagles, and osprey.

You can walk or pedal into the marsh along the park’s 1.3-mile Marshall Brook fire road. To find it, take the Seal Cove Road, just north downtown Southwest Harbor. When you enter the park, it’ll be the first road on the left.

Another option, if you have access to a canoe or kayak, is paddling. Access it from the Route 102 bridge in Tremont, about 2 miles south of the intersection with Route 102A in Southwest Harbor. Paddle the open tidal section of the marsh and continue northward, keeping right and staying on the main channel of Marshall Brook.

Hio Fire Road

Immerse into the Big Heath with an easy walk or bike ride on the park’s Hio fire road (also called Hio Truck Road and simply Hio Road). The road, gated at both ends, skirts the Big Heath, a glacial-formed peat bog that’s home to insect-eating plants including the pitcher plant, and it passes through moss-rich, lush woodlands comprising spruce, red and white pine, and balsam fir, along with birch, maple, and cedar. Keep an eye out for animal tracks. The Hio Road runs 2 miles between the back of the Seawall Campground on Route 102A and Route 102, just north of bridge crossing the Bass Harbor Marsh.

Outside the park on Acadia’s Quiet Side

Charlotte Rhoades Park and Butterfly Garden

Slip away to the Charlotte Rhoades Butterfly Garden in Southwest Harbor, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle
The Charlotte Rhoades Butterfly Garden is a rarly busy, pocket-sized, waterfront park in Southwest Harbor, on Acadia’s Quiet Side. ©Hilary Nangle

This vest-pocket seaside park was donated to the town in 1973, and the butterfly garden was established in 1998 to promote conservation education. The park is seldom busy, and it’s a delightful place to enjoy a picnic or simply gaze out over water amidst flowers and butterflies. A $5 donation per family admission is requested; put it in the donation box.

A kiosk is stocked with butterfly observation sheets, and there’s usually a volunteer docent on duty, 9:30-11:30am Thursdays. Garden Tours, often themed, happen at 10:30 Wednesdays through late August, check the website for details ($5 donation).

Note: An annual butterfly release happens in July. Reservations are required.

Find the park is on the waterside of Route 102 between the Causeway Golf Club and the Seal Cove Road.

Few visitors to Southwest Harbor, Maine, ever find the causeway. ©Hilary Nangle
Cool off with a walk across the causeway in Southwest Harbor, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Causeway walk

Here’s a fun spot that few visitors to Mount Desert Island find. A pedestrian causeway bridges Norwood Cove, linking North and South Causeway Lanes. To find it, take Fernald Point Road off Route 102 (turn at the Causeway Golf Club) and then take your first right. Walk on the water side of the tennis courts, pass the pool, and continue. You’ll see the path ahead of you. At low tide, there’s a gravel beach area. When the tide changes, the water rushes under the bridge section.

On the west side, walk straight and follow the road, which ends at High Road. Turn right and it flows into Clark Point Road at a five-way stop. Make a sharp right on Herrick, which bends around and meets Route 102 at the corner with the Wendell Gilley Museum (definitely worth a visit) or go straight into downtown. You can easily walk this in a loop from downtown Southwest Harbor that includes the butterfly garden and the museum, but be careful on the short section of  Route 102 without a sidewalk.

Waterfront dining on Acadia's quiet side
Watch lobsterboats to-ing and fro-ing in Bass Harbor while enjoying lunch at the Seafood Ketch. ©Hilary Nangle

Lunch and treats on Acadia’s Quiet Side

If you’re going to play in the park, your best option is a picnic. If you prefer to eat at a restaurant, aim to arrive around 11:30 or after 1:30 to avoid the crowds.

Seafood Ketch, Bass Harbor: I arrived with a friend here at 11:30 and there were only two tables taken, so we snagged a primo table on the patio overlooking the lobsterboat-filled harbor with a mountain backdrop. When we left an hour later, there still were outside tables available, as well as plenty inside.

Honestly, it would be easy to simply hang out here and drink in the views. The food and service are excellent, and the prices very fair. Choices are abundant–from sandwiches and chowders to full meals.

Red umbrellas provide shade so you can enjoy the views over Somes Sound while having lunch at The Boathouse at the Claremont in Southwest Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle
Have lunch at The Boathouse at the Claremont in Southwest Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

The Boathouse at The Claremont, Southwest Harbor: Not too many people seek out The Boathouse at the Claremont for lunch, which has been my good fortune. I love this grande olde dame of a hotel, which overlooks the mouth of Somes Sound.

Between the hotel and the waterfront are the regulation croquet courts. Below them and hanging over the water at high tide is The Boathouse, a small restaurant with to-die-for views. The menu (link on website) isn’t big, the prices are on the higher side of moderate, but for this location, it’s worth it. (Note: It’s small, so you might want to arrive after peak dining hours)

Now this is a blueberry pie! Made by Frances at the Quietside Cafe. Find Frances and her amazing blueberry pie at the Quietside Cafe in Southwest Harbor, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle
Find Frances and her amazing blueberry pie at the Quietside Cafe in Southwest Harbor, Maine. ©Hilary Nangle

Quietside Cafe, Southwest Harbor: Everything at this little cafe is made from scratch and delicious and very reasonable. Try the soups and chowders, but don’t miss the usuals, but always save room for dessert.

After a good hike, I’ll stop here for some of Frances’ sky-high blueberry pie or her delicious key lime pie—try it with the chocolate crust. There’s seating indoors and outside.

Eat-A-Pita/Cafe 2, Southwest Harbor: If I’m headed into the park, I’ll stop here for a pita sandwich-to-go (with a bunch of napkins) to enjoy as a picnic.

If I’m passing early or late, I’ll have lunch here at one of the sidewalk tables. Great menu, good service, nice people.

I think Maureen McDonald's Amazing Molasses Cookies are some of th best I've ever enjoyed. ©Hilary Nangle
Just try to resist Maureen McDonald’s cookies at Manset Little Farm in Southwest Harbor. ©Hilary Nangle

Manset Little Farm, Southwest Harbor:  NOTE: Stand not open this season, but she’s selling her cookies at Sawyer’s Market downtown; it’s wise to get there early, as they usually sell out.

The first time I stopped here, I gasped at the $4/cookie price. A bought one, drove off, split it in half to share with a friend, took one bite, and turned around. Yeah, it was that good. Another friend, a professional chef and whoopie pie aficionado, proclaimed the $4.50 version made here the best she’d ever had.

Maureen McDonald not only makes every batch with love, she uses the best ingredients: organic when possible, Nielsen-Massey Madagascar vanilla, pure cane sugar, etc. One of the few exceptions for organic is butter. “I use Land O’Lakes butter because I don’t want to raise the price above $4,” she told me. Fine by me.

 

 

Marsden Hartley’s Maine: The view from Katahdin Woods & Waters

Experience Marsden Hartley's Maine by visiting the Katahdin Woods & Waters region in the Maine Highlands.
Visit Maine’s Katahdin & Woods region and step into Marsden Hartley’s, Mt. Katahdin (Maine), Autumn #2, 1939–40. Oil on canvas, 30 1⁄4 x 40 1⁄4 in. (76.8 x 102.2 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Edith and Milton Lowenthal Collection, Bequest of Edith Abrahamson Lowenthal.

Artist Marsden Hartley captured the magic and beauty of Maine’s Katahdin Woods & Waters region decades before it was even under consideration as a national monument. When I look at his paintings depicting Katahdin or a brawny lumberjack or flowing water or jumbled logs, I see the same images that I’ve experienced when traveling in this region.

Katahdin's distinctive silhouette as seen aboard a cruise from New England Outdoor Center. ©Hilary Nangle
Katahdin’s distinctive silhouette remains the same as when Marsden Hartley painted the iconic mountain. ©Hilary Nangle

Beyond earning recognition as The Painter from Maine, artist Marsden Hartley also strove to serve as Katahdin’s “official portrait painter.” Between 1937, when he made an eight-day pilgrimage to Maine’s tallest peak, and his death in 1943, Hartley made more than a dozen paintings of Katahdin.

Pair a visit to Marsden Hartley’s Maine, on view at Colby College Museum of Art in Waterville through Nov. 12, 2018, with one to Baxter State Park and the new Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument in the Maine Highlands region. While the river drivers are long gone, you can experience the era in ways similar to Hartley.

For a real immersion into Maine's logging heritage, plan a visit to the Ambejejus Boom House, a National Historic Landmark accessible only by water, in Maine. ©Hilary Nangle .
The Ambajejus Boom House is sited where the West Branch of the Penobscot flows into Ambejejus Lake, in the shadow of Mount Katahdin, in Maine. ©Hilary Nangle .

Visit the Ambajejus Boom House

The last log drive on the West Branch of the Penobscot occurred in 1979. For a vision of that era, visit the Ambajejus Boom House (donation appreciated), a property on Ambajejus Lake that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

 The Ambajejus Boom House recalls the era depicted in Marsden Hartley's Log Jam, Penobscot Bay, 1940-41, oil on hardboard (massonite).
Experience the river driver’s life depicted in Marsden Hartley’s Log Jam, Penobscot Bay, at the Ambajejus Boom House.

The boom house, erected here in 1906, was used as a rest stop for 65 years by rugged river drivers, lumbermen who “boomed out” (collected with immense chains) and actually rode logs downstream to the sawmills. Chuck Harris, a onetime river driver who is often on-site, made the meticulous restoration of the once-derelict house a personal project. It’s filled with incredible lumbering-era artifacts.

Here’s the rub: The only access is via boat or snowmobile. You can arrange a cruise or canoe rental through the Big Moose Inn (provide at least 48 hours notice for a cruise) or a canoe rental or guided trip with New England Outdoor Center or do it yourself.

If you go on your own, launch your boat in Spencer Cove on the west side of the Golden Road, and paddle or motor out and around to the right, to the head of the lake. Stay close to shore, as the wind can pick up unexpectedly.

Raft the Penobscot River

One fine and fun way to experience the area is on a whitewater rafting trip down the West Branch of the Penobscot River. One-day Penobscot River rafting trips pass through Ripogenous Gorge, a rip-roaring chasm of roiling Class IV and V white water, over nine-foot Nesoudnehunk Falls, through a few other Class IV rapids and a few ponds, all in the shadow of Katahdin. It’s a fabulous adventure, and a riverside lunch is included.

Book a trip with the New England Outdoor Center, based in updated and renovated historical sporting camp on Millinocket Lake with gorgeous Katahdin views.

Hike Katahdin in Baxter State Park. ©Hilary Nangle
Katahdin as seen from Daicy Pond in Baxter State Park. ©Hilary Nangle

Hike Katahdin

Mile-high Katahdin, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, is the Holy Grail for most Baxter State Park hikers—and certainly for Appalachian Trail through-hikers, who have walked 2,158 miles from Springer Mountain, Georgia, to get here.

Katahdin comprises a single high point (Baxter Peak, 5,267 feet) and several neighboring peaks (Pamola Peak, 4,902 feet; Hamlin Peak, 4,756 feet; and the three Howe Peaks, 4,612-4,734 feet).

Thousands of hikers scale Katahdin annually via several different routes. The climb is strenuous, requires a very full day, and is not suitable for small children; kids under age 6 are banned above the tree line. You’ll be a lot happier and a lot less exhausted if you plan to camp in the park before and after the Katahdin hike. Cut-off time for most trails ascending Katahdin is noon.

Of course, there are plenty of other options: Baxter offers more than 200 miles of trails with options for all abilities, from nature walks to the big kahoona.

Along the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway. ©Hilary Nangle
Drive the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway which gives a taste of the new National Monument. ©Hilary Nangle

Katahdin Woods and Waters

A gift to the nation by conservationist and philanthropist Roxanne Quimby in 2016, the rugged and remote Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument is a work in progress. Sited west of Route 11 and east of Baxter State Park, in the Unorganized Territories north of Millinocket and south of Patten, the monument is remote and without many services, with access via dirt road woods roads that best suited for vehicles with high ground clearance. This, of course, will change as the National Park Service develops infrastructure.

Woodlands, wetlands, free-flowing waterways, and rolling mountains pepper the 87,654-acre outdoor playground. Highlights include the East Branch of the Penobscot River, hiking trails in eastern Katahdin foothills, spectacular views of Katahdin, and the biodiversity and geology of the Maine Woods.

Culturally, the lands are important to the Penobscot Indian National, recall the era of lumbermen and river drivers, and have ties to Henry David Thoreau, John James Audubon, and Theodore Roosevelt.

Outdoor enthusiasts can hike, fish, camp, paddle, ski, snowshoe, watch wildlife, and star gaze here, although facilities are primitive at best.

Drive the byway
Katahdin dominates the landscape from one of the pullouts along the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway. ©Hilary Nangle
Katahdin as seen from the Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway in Patten. ©Hilary Nangle

One of the easiest ways to get a sense of the monument is via the 89-mile Katahdin Woods & Waters Scenic Byway. The route winds between Millinocket and Patten, following the Baxter State Park Road and Routes 11 and 159, offering views of Maine’s highest peak and taking in museums and sights en route. A map-brochure, detailing the byway and sights and services along it, can be picked up locally or downloaded from www.exploremaine.org.

Here’s my recommended detour from the byway: On a clear day, detour west off Route 11 on the Happy Corner Road, about two miles south of downtown Patten, follow it about two miles to the Frenchville Road, on your right, and take that (gravel in sections) north to a T intersection and bear right on the Waters Road, which will connect with Route 159, turn right to return to Route 11 and Patten. The biggest rewards for this loop are the panoramic views of Katahdin from the Happy Corner Road; the rest is a delightful country byway, with some nice ridge views east from the Frenchville Road. It’s simply gorgeous in autumn.

 

Also in this series:

Marsden Hartley’s Maine: The view from Corea

Marsden Hartley’s Maine: Must see at Colby College Museum of Art

Bernie, Maine’s dog-friendly expert, makes his final post

R.I.P Bernie and thanks for all your research.
My travel companion Bernie, an 11-year-old Leonberger, is now exploring doggie heaven.

Last Friday I said a final goodbye to one of my favorite travel companions and my resident expert in dog-friendly experiences.

Bernie, my 11-year-old Leonberger, earned his wings at 8 weeks, when I picked him up and flew home from Chicago’s O’Hare. Once he’d mastered guest etiquette, he accompanied me often, checking out pet-friendly accommodations, sniffing out the best hikes, helping determine the best ice cream stands and lobster shacks, and just keeping an eye out for other special places.

Bernie was a pro at checking out walks and hikes as well as accommodations and restaurants. ©Hilary Nangle
A winter walk on Crescent Beach, while staying at the uber-dog-friendly Inn by the Sea. ©Hilary Nangle

Over the years, Bernie picnicked and visited lighthouses; enjoyed yacht-spotting in Northeast Harbor; grooved to the music at the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival; feasted at restaurants with outdoor seating; hiked trails; browsed dog-friendly stores.

In his prime, Bernie checked in and checked out numerous lodgings statewide and never had a complaint. Here are some of his recommendations for his favorite dog-friendly accommodations.

Pet-friendly travel expert in-trainingCashel on his first trip at 3 months. ©Hilary Nangle
Cashel made his first road trip at 3 months (and yes, he grew into those paws). ©Hilary Nangle

He also helped train Cashel, my 2-year-old Leonberger, who will be assuming the Dog-Friendly Researcher-in-Chief title as soon he matures a bit more. (In his puppy exuberance Crashel, as he’s affectionately known, accidentally broke my shoulder earlier this year when he lunged unexpectedly and I went airborne. I should mention he’s a big boy, about 140 pounds of energy). He’s not quite ready for prime time, but likely will begin selective reviewing later this fall or winter.

A few parting shots:

Leashed, well behaved dogs are permitted to attend the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. ©Tom Nangle
Groovin’ to the music at the Grand Lake Stream Folk Arts Festival. ©Tom Nangle
Bernie always was eager to see what was on the menu at restaurants with outdoor pet-friendly seating. ©Hilary Nangle
Waiting for lobster at McLoon’s Lobster Shack in Spruce Head. ©Hilary Nangle
Until we meet again. ©Tom Nangle
Bernie, the world’s best dog. ©Tom Nangle

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Marsden Hartley’s Maine: The view from Corea, with Joe Young

Lobster Fishermen, painted in Corea, Maine, by Marsden Hartley
Marsden Hartley, Lobster Fishermen, 1940–41. Oil on hardboard (masonite), 29 3/4 x 40 7/8 in. (75.6 x 103.8 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fund

I recently toured Marsden Hartley’s Maine, on view at Colby College Museum of Art in Waterville through Nov. 12, 2018. The exhibition, which first showed at the Met Breuer in New York, is a Maine travelogue via the works of Hartley, a master American modernist and the Painter from Maine.

Hartley used the upper story of Corea's abandoned baptist church in 1940.
Lobster Fishermen’s church by the Barrens, 1942, oil on hardboard (masonite_. collection of Karen and Kevin Kennedy.

One way to experience the Hartley show is to visit some of the locales depicted in his works.

For starters, let’s drop into Corea, Maine, home to one of my favorite Maine lobster shacks.

Marsden Hartley and Corea

Sixth-generation lobsterman Joe Young, a descendant of Corea’s original settlers, owns the Corea Wharf Grill & Gallery (one of my favorite Maine lobster shacks). From 1940-1943, Hartley lived with Joe’s grandparents Forrest and Katie Young.

Hartley’s Lobster Fishermen is the image topping this page. According to interpretive signage: “Hartley incorporated into this painting of lobster fishermen on break the panoramic harbor view he would have seen from his makeshift studio on the second floor of Corea’s abandoned Baptist church.”

As you can see from my photo, if you go to the wharf today, you’ll see pretty much the same dreamy view. Corea’s harbor remains lined with trap-topped wharves and filled with lobster boats.

The abandoned Baptist church in Corea that Hartley used as a studio.
Church at Corea, 1941, oil on canvas board. Collection of Karen and Kevin Kennedy.

Hartley used the church as his studio until moving into a chicken coop the Youngs rented to him. The church, as seen in Lobster Fishermen’s hurch by the Barrens, above left and Church at Corea, right, also served as a subject.

Family stories

The last time I visited Joe, he was kind enough to share a few stories. In the first video, Joe shares a story about his aunt, photographer Louise Z. Young, and her interaction with Hartley. Joe sells prints of images taken by his aunt in the gallery on the wharf. Be sure to browse through, when you stop in for a lobster roll.

 

In this video, Joe shares a story from when his grandparents when to New York to view a Marsden Hartley exhibition.

 

 

 

Marsden Hartley’s Maine: Must see at Colby College Museum of Art

Marsden Hartley, The Lighthouse, 1940–41. Oil on masonite-type hardboard, 30 x 40 1/8 in. (76.2 x 101.9 cm). Collection of Pitt and Barbara Hyde

Lobster! Katahdin! Portland Headlight! Crashing surf! One would be hard pressed to create a travel itinerary taking in Maine’s icons better than that presented in Marsden Hartley’s Maine, on view at the Colby College Museum of Art in Waterville through Nov. 12, 2017.

A collaboration with the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Marsden Hartley’s Maine presents approximately 90 of the American Modernist’s paintings and drawings depicting his home state of Maine.

Marsden Hartley, The Lighthouse, 1940–41. Oil on masonite-type hardboard, 30 x 40 1/8 in. (76.2 x 101.9 cm). Collection of Pitt and Barbara Hyde

You don’t need to be an art aficionado to appreciate this exhibit. Go because it encapsulates the best of Maine. I  promise that you’ll recognize some locations and be inspired to visit others.

Born in Lewiston in 1877, Hartley resided in New York, Paris, and Berlin, traveling widely, but returning frequently to Maine, before dying in Ellsworth in 1943. In between he established himself as The Painter from Maine, a legacy made clear in this exhibition.

Marsden Hartley, Mt. Katahdin (Maine), Autumn #2, 1939–40. Oil on canvas, 30 1⁄4 x 40 1⁄4 in. (76.8 x 102.2 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Edith and Milton Lowenthal Collection, Bequest of Edith Abrahamson Lowenthal

Hartley’s paintings transport viewers along Maine’s coastline from Ogunquit to Corea, out to Vinalhaven island, inland to the western lakes and mountains, and north to the Katahdin Woods and Waters region.

Along the way, we visit gurgling streams, mountain-backed lakes, ships at sea, and forested peaks. We also meet the locals, from burly bathers to hardy fishermen.

In future posts, I’ll focus on some of the locations depicted, using Hartley’s works as an entry point.

Marsden Hartley, Lobster Fishermen, 1940–41. Oil on hardboard (masonite), 29 3/4 x 40 7/8 in. (75.6 x 103.8 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fund
Co-curated exhibtion

Co-curators Elizabeth Finch, Lunder Curator of American Art at the Colby College Museum of Art; Donna M. Cassidy, professor of American and New England Studies and Art History at the University of Southern Maine; and Randall Griffey, curator in the Department of Modern and Contemporary Art  at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, have created an exhibition that follows Hartley’s development as an artist and identifies the various influences on his works.

Marsden Hartley, Canuck Yankee Lumberjack at Old Orchard Beach, Maine, 1940–41. Oil on Masonite-type hardboard, 40 1/8 x 30 in. (101.9 x 76.2 cm). Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, Smithsonian Institution

Even if you were fortunate enough to view this exhibit at the Met Breuer this spring, come see it at Colby, too. I’ve enjoyed it in both locations, and honestly, I think I like the Maine venue more—perhaps because the works have come home.

If you go:

The Colby College Museum of Art is open 10am-5pm Tuesday-Saturday and noon-5pm Sunday; admission is free. NOTE: Every Tuesday at noon, a curator leads a free tour of Marsden Hartley’s Maine.

While here, don’t miss the companion exhibit Visionary Painting, curated by Alex Katz, on view through Aug. 27.

 

 

 

Keepers of the Flame: saving lighthouses

Saving lighthouses is not easy task. Credit the Maine Lights Program, launched in 1996, and the National Historical Lighthouse Preservation Act of 2000, for saving more than 40 of Maine’s 64 historical beacons from destruction and neglect. These programs allow transfer of lighthouses to nonprofits or, when none step forward, private parties. Those entrusted with a lighthouse’s care must preserve it with no funding supplied. And if restoring it, must do so accurately. Saving lighthouses requires blind hope, passion, and creative fundraising.

“… by opening the lighthouses and sharing their stories with the public, we get some donations that we put right back into the project.”

—Bob Trapani, president, American Lighthouse Foundation

Burnt Island Lighthouse, Boothbay Harbor

When it comes to saving lighthouses, Elaine Jones is a master.

“It’s a labor of love,” says Elaine Jones, Education Director for the Maine’s Department of Marine Resources, about saving lighthouses. When she first learned that Burnt Island Lighthouse, off Boothbay Harbor, was available, it sparked her interest. She needed a place to house teachers during the summer and she envisioned a living history program. While she had the department’s support, there was no money available. The house had been abandoned for 10 years. “The bones were there, but a lot of work had to be done,” she says. A lighthouse is like a boat, she adds, “it’s a hole in the water that you throw money into, only it’s on a rock.”

Jones wrote grants and tugged at heartstrings, approaching locals and summer people. She traveled widely to research the light’s history, making friends in Washington D.C., Rhode Island, and Massachusetts. She chose to portray the year 1950, found 14 keepers who were still alive, and interviewed them and their families. “Every once in a while I’d get a package from the Coast Guard—they found this or that in their files,” she says.

“Once people see you’re enthusiastic and passionate, they jump on the team.” She cobbled together a tremendous support team. “I opened my files as wide as I could and got a lot of free help,” she says, ticking off AmeriCorps, Landmark Volunteers, Master Gardeners, Maine Conservation Corps, teachers, students, and even prisoners. The sons of lightkeeper James McCullough donated their weekends to help to restore their childhood home.

Jones has handed the living history program’s operation to the not-for-profit Keepers of the Burnt Island Light, but she launched a $200,000 fundraising campaign for further restorations. Although ninth-oldest overall, Burnt, constructed in 1821, is the state’s oldest original lighthouse and the first built after Maine became a state. “If I stretch [that truth], in [2021], Maine’s oldest lighthouse will be 200 years old.”

Monhegan Island Light

The Monhegan Island Lighthouse complex now doubles as a museum showcasing the island’s heritage and its art history. ©Hilary Nangle

One of Maine’s earliest lighthouse adaptive reuse projects dates from 1959, when the Coast Guard automated Monhegan Island Light and declared the keeper’s house and outbuildings as surplus. Monhegan Associates, a local conservation nonprofit, envisioned a museum. Island residents responded by donating photographs, documents, furniture, equipment, Indian artifacts, memorabilia, and artwork. When the museum’s collections outgrew the space, the assistant keeper’s house was reconstructed as an art museum, opening in 1998.

Rockland Breakwater Light, Rockland

Saving lighthouses Rockland Harbor Light
Saving lighthouses is the mission of the American Lighthouse Foundation, which is a steward for nine Maine beacons. ©Hilary Nangle

The Maine-based American Lighthouse Foundation is steward for nine Maine lights, including Rockland Breakwater and Owls Head, which wink at each other across Rockland’s harbor. “From the challenge perspective, [Rockland Breakwater] may as well be an offshore lighthouse,” says ALF president Bob Trapani, noting that volunteers and workers must foot-slog the nearly mile-long breakwater’s uneven granite slabs. Simply restoring the wood floors was a huge project, he adds.

Volunteers endeavor to staff the Rockland Harbor lighthouses throughout the summer season and open the towers to visitors at no charge. “One of the advantages with our volunteer Friends group is that by opening the lighthouses and sharing their stories with the public, we get some donations that we put right back into the project,” Trapani says. “If we do our job, the public actually helps us raise money.”

Little River Light, Cutler

No two restorations are alike, as each provides different challenges. Guests can now overnight for a fee at Cutler’s restored Little River Light. “Its beauty is its remoteness, but that’s also its biggest challenge,” ALF’s Trapani says. Its Friends chapter has raised more than $350,000; no small feat in economically-strapped and sparsely-populated down east Maine.

Perkins Island Lighthouse, Kennebec River

“We own the Perkins Island tower,” Trapani says, referring to the lighthouse on an island in the Kennebec River. Local private residents came forward and donated $50,000 to restore the exterior of the keeper’s house, which is owned by the state. “This couple was just interested in helping and found a creative way and they were able to fund the work,” Trapani says. “Here we were on the verge of potentially loosing the house over the next few years, and it looks awesome now. There’s always hope.”

Head Harbour Lightstation, Campobello Island

Saving lighthouses Head Harbour Lighthouse a.k.a. East Quoddy Head
A group of locals saved Campobello’s Head Harbour Light. ©Hilary Nangle

Blind hope fueled restoring Head Harbour Lightstation, the 1829 all-wood tower, with its distinctive red-cross pattern, sited on Campobello, a New Brunswick island tethered by bridge to Lubec, Maine. In 2000, a group of senior citizens, primarily women, formed a friends group. Six years later, they took possession of the province’s oldest surviving tower, along with the keeper’s house and outbuildings. “It was a falling down set of five leaking buildings,” volunteer Joyce Morrell says. “We had no clue of what we were getting into. We auctioned off paintings for paint. We scraped, painted, shingled, and kept at it, and it started to look better and better.”

The tower, keeper’s house, and ancillary buildings topped on an offshore rockbound islet. Reaching it required descending and climbing ladders and navigating slippery seaweed- and rock-covered sections of the ocean floor during low tides. On most days, tides limited the treacherous access to a four-hour window. Almost all supplies were carried by hand. Despite the difficulties, they painted the tower twice, wallpapered the interior, hauled over the period furnishings, and even managed to get a refrigerator onto the island and into the house.

As they made progress, more and more visitors ventured over to the island. “They wanted to get inside,” volunteer Deanna Baldwin says. “They peered in the windows, knocked on the door, so we started giving tours to raise funds.” Now the plan is to offer nightly rental. “It’s the most magical place in the world to stay overnight,” she says. “You can sit here and watch the whales, minke, finbacks, humpbacks, sometimes even right whales.”

It’s that kind of excitement that fuels continued interest. “As long as there’s a community heartbeat, an organized effort, people who are energetic and passionate about saving lighthouses, there’s hope,” Trapani says.


For more on Maine’s lighthouses, read: Light up your life: Eight great ways to enjoy Maine’s lighthouses