It’s by no means a budget hotel, but The Federal offers an advance purchase, no cancellation/no refund rate that’s a steal. This upscale property is within walking distance of downtown Brunswick’s restaurants and shops and Bowdoin College’s museums and performance venues. Amenities include a yoga-stretching room and guest robes. Rates are room only. The excellent on-site restaurant serves dinner, but not breakfast. However, there’s a pantry where you can purchase a to-go breakfast and light convenience fare. Pets are allowed in some rooms; ask about policies and fees. Rates from $157.
Although guests can’t see Pemaquid Point Light from the Hotel Pemaquid, they sure can hear the foghorn when it blows. New owners have gently renovated and upgraded the 1888 accommodations without losing the charm of a Victorian seaside hotel, right down to the rockers on the front porch. Antiques are plentiful, but the emphasis is on comfort. Coffee is available in the morning, but most guests stroll over to the oceanfront Sea Gull restaurant for blueberry pancakes with a lighthouse view. A new building with 10 units, each with two queens, is expected to open this summer. Peak season rates from $160.
Moody’s Diner (photo) has been a landmark for generations of travelers heading up Route 1 through Maine’s mid-coast, its neon sign a beacon for weary drivers seeking a cup of joe and a slab of pie. Hidden from sight up a quarter-mile drive behind the diner is Moody’s Motel and Cabins. This coastal tourist cabin classic has operated since 1927. The location is convenient for exploring from Wiscasset through Searsport. Every unit has a screen porch and TV; some have kitchenettes. And the rates? Right out of a different era; peak season from around $120. Pets: $20/pet/night.
This family-owned and operated hostel is situated in a great walk-to-everything location. It has coed and single-sex dorm-style rooms with bunk beds. Linens, a duvet, and a pillow are provided, as are keyed lockers. The decor is wildly colorful, from the outdoor building murals to the indoor ceilings. Communal space includes a comfy lobby lounge and a shared kitchen. Rates: from $57 shared room; from $145 private room.
The Eighth Regiment Oceanfront Lodge & Museum offers communal living accommodations—private room, shared baths and kitchen—on Peaks Island, Maine.
The ultra-informal and uniquely historic Eighth Maine Oceanfront Lodge & Museum is in a class of its own and definitely not for everyone. Guests rusticate in much the same manner as the Civil War veterans who built the shorefront lodge in 1891, using a gift from a veteran who had won the Louisiana Lottery. They are immersed in a late-19th-century environment, a real hit with Civil War buffs.
Accommodations are more hostel than inn, with shared baths and kitchen space, and evening activities, including games and sing-a-longs. The pluses include extensive Civil War books, artifacts, and memorabilia, and Wifi. There are no housekeeping services; guests must strip linens and clean their room and their respective kitchen area before departing. No need for a car, as long as you pack in a backpack or use the island taxi. You can take the bus from Portland’s airport or bus/train terminals to the Casco Bay Lines dock, then catch the ferry to the island. Rates from $159.
Charming, retro, rustic, simple: That sums up this tidy cottage colony established in the 1930s by the Marsteller family and still operated by them. Rates will leave you with enough in your wallet for a Freeport outlet binge. Frills include fireplaces and/or kitchenettes in some of the pine-paneled units, older children’s playsets, walking trails, and a light continental breakfast, but overall, this is a back-to-basics kind of place. Only drawback might be traffic noise; it’s located between Routes 1 and I-295. Pets are welcome for $8 per night. You’ll need a car to get around. Still, when seeking budget lodging in Greater Portland, Maine, it’s a steal. Peak season rates from $108.
It’s not easy to find budget-friendly lodging on Maine’s Southern Coast. The region’s proximity to Boston and easy access have made it especially popular. These properties offer good value for budget-conscious travelers. (Updated May 4, 2025)
One of the least pricey lodging options in the Kennebunks actually has one of the most primo locations. The nonprofit Franciscan Guest House is situated on the 200-acre, riverside grounds of the St. Anthony’s Franciscan Monastery, within walking distance of both Kennebunk Beach and Dock Square. Rooms are spread between a main lodge in a renovated high school and a few smaller cottages; all are classic 1970’s décor. Frills include a seasonal saltwater pool and Wifi. What’s the catch? Fresh linens are available, but there is no daily maid service.
This budget-friendly lodging on Maine’s southern coast breaks my rule about not costing more than $165 in peak season, but given its location, I’ve included it. In July-August, the lowest rate is around $189, but you can score lower rates by going just before or after those rates kick in.
This colony comprising rooms and efficiency one- and two-bedroom cottages is on Route 1, just south of downtown Kennebunk. Although it’s an older complex, the grounds are nicely landscaped, and the accommodations are well-tended. Perks include a large outdoor pool, picnic tables, outdoor grills, and a games area. Pets (max 2) permitted for $20/night. Kids 14 and younger are free, and extra people in the room are $10 each/night. Peak season rates from $120.
The Percy Inn delivers everything an independent-minded traveler needs. This handsome, 1830 Federal-style row house is sited downtown Portland, Maine, just a few steps off Longfellow Square. That primo location is within easy walking distance of most downtown restaurants and sights.
Owner Dale Northrup, a professional travel writer, created the inn to meet the needs of those who don’t need a lot of hand holding. You’ll find detailed info sheets on what to see and do, and suggestions for dining. If he’s on site, he’ll answer questions and share his insider knowledge. But, if he’s off site, you may go without seeing him, although he’s always only a phone call away.
The eight guest rooms are quite comfy and they’re well equipped. Standard amenities include flatscreen TVs, wifi, toiletries, heat/air-conditioning, and fridges stocked with soft drinks. Each has a queen bed, a few are suites, some have gas fireplaces, others wet bars; all are named after writers. Perks include free off-street parking and daily self-serve continental-deluxe breakfast.
Summer and fall guests also have access to a deck with Adirondack chairs and umbrella tables and the landscaped grounds. Storage is available for recreational equipment, should you choose to bring bikes, boats, skis, or other toys.
What to know about the Percy Inn
I love the location of this inn, and I especially appreciate the free, off-street parking. The only drawback for some guests, especially those with mobility problems, is accessibility. Guest rooms are divided among three floors, the breakfast room is on the second floor, and the pantry stocked with books, games, ice, and on-demand hot drinks, is on the third floor. The stairways in between are steep and winding.
What makes the Percy Inn even more attractive are the rates. In peak season (mid-May through mid-October), rates range $129-219. The rest of the year, they’re $89-129. (holiday rates may be higher). At that price, with breakfast and parking, I can manage those stairs.
I’m hoping my first trip to Whitefish won’t be my last, and I’m wondering why I waited so long to visit this Montana mountain and community that share the name. Why Whitefish? Here are just a few of the reasons this four-season resort should be on your radar, whether you’re a skier/rider or not.
Whitefish, sited in northern Montana, scores triple location points: It’s roughly 30 miles from Glacier National Park; the town is 15 minutes from Glacier Park International Airport; the Amtrak Empire Builder stops in town: and if you’re looking for a ski trifecta, it’s only an hour from the Canadian border, making it easy to loop in Fernie and Kimberly.
• Why Whitefish mountain: It’s big…
No, really; truth is: Big Mountain was its previous name. It was changed to associate it with its base town and to avoid confusion with Big Sky, in the southern Montana. Whitefish Mountain Resort comprises 3,000 acres with 105 marked trails + plentiful bowls, steeps, and trees serviced by 14 lifts & tows. The vertical drop is a respectable 2,353 feet; the longest run is 3.3 miles. Truth is, the mountain skis bigger than it first appears. As one ascends, bowls and ridges appear. Thanks to its multiple faces, one can usually find good conditions, not matter what the weather. Hint: Locals told me the north side is always lighter and dryer, so when in doubt, head north.
With a summit elevation of 6,817 feet, no worries about altitude issues. You won’t be gasping for breath or experiencing a killer headache if you bend over.
• and Pho & ahi in the cafeteria
I could eat lunch every day in the Summit House and be happy. Not only was the food very good, but also very appealing, and reasonably priced. One day I enjoyed a steaming bowl of hearty pho, another a Mexican chicken. I was tempted by an ahi tuna dish as well as the burritos. Most choices were in the $8-12 range—very fair considering the quality and location.
The mountain is celebrating its 70th anniversary this season. When I visited, I had the opportunity to hear long-timers share stories about the early years. I also caught the Clod of the Week/Frabert Awards, presented on Wednesdays at 5pm in the Bierstube (a.k.a. the ‘stube), the classic ski bar in the Village (go in if just for the nostalgia and decor—think old ski movies on the big screen, pool table, and old ski gear, signs, flags, and other mementos adorning the walls and hanging from the rafters); another good spot to soak in the atmosphere is the Hellroaring Saloon.
• Why Whitefish: The price is right!
No, not the TV show, but the prices for everything. For starters, winter is off-season in Whitefish, so accommodations are reasonably priced. Lift tickets are low for a major resort; rack rate: $79 adult 1-day, $72 each additional day (buy a $50 frequent skier card, and the daily rate is $50 adult). And hey, if you’re 70 or older, you ski free.
Free S.N.O.W buses connect the town with the mountain, stopping along the way. You can stay on mountain and enjoy afternoons and evenings in town or stay in town and still catch first and last tracks.
Not only is downtown Whitefish compact and easy to navigate, it’s streets are lined with independent shops, galleries, restaurant, and even two microbreweries and a micro distillery. There’s even an independent downtown hardware store, a rarity these days, especially in a resort community. Does it get any more perfect than Voyageur, a shop that sells artisan chocolates and used books? Oh, and nearly every restaurant or shop selling anything food related will have something in the huckleberry flavor. It’s local, it’s good, try it.
Beyond skiing, riding, shopping, and eating, Whitefish makes it easy to have a good time. So on those days when fog shrouds the mountain, consider the alternative outdoor pursuits: sleigh rides, dog sledding, Nordic skiing, fat-tire biking, and snowshoeing. Or, dive into the aquatic park, visit a spa, or simply curl up with the highly regarded Whitefish Review, a literary journal published twice each year.
The elephant in the room is Glacier National Park. Truth is, most people come in summer, which is why winter rates for lodging are low. The park in winter is quiet and spectacular, and it’s open for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, winter hiking, or simply oohing and aahing. Glacier Adventure Guides makes it easy.
• Cheap sleeps: on the mountain, Hibernation House (from $89pp with lift, lodging, & breakfast); in town, the Whitefish Hostel (from $75/bed; whole house rental available).
• B&Bs: one-third mile from town & on bus route, Good Medicine Lodge, which has especially nice lounging areas (from $135 w/breakfast); intown Garden Wall Inn (from $155 w/breakfast)
• Hotels & Inns: on the mountain, Kandahar Lodge (from $159 w/continental breakfast); in town, The Firebrand (from $119)
• Luxury ski-in/out chalets: Snow Bear Chalets, on the slope tree houses (from $3,000/week)
• Dude ranch: located on the outskirts of town, the Bar W Guest Ranch offers B&B rates during winter.
• Breakfast—On the mountain, I grabbed a breakfast quesadilla at Village Coffee in the upper village; in town, head to Loula’s, Swift Creek Cafe, or Amazing Crepes.
• Ice cream: I know it’s winter, but trust me on this, you don’t want to miss Sweet Peaks, which its own ice cream, sorbet, and yogurt. And of course you can get huckleberry.
• Dinner—On the mountain: For a wonderful dining experience with a highly regarded chef, make reservations at Cafe Kandahar. Intown: Abruzzo prepares excellent pastas and wood-fired pizzas; mountain Mexican is served at Pescado Blanco (I’m still signing over the bison enchiladas), Tupelo Grille specializes in Cajun and Southern fare; the lobby lounge at the Firebrand Hotel serves a tapas-style small-plates menu.
I’m sure late 19th-century Maine architect Francis Fassett would be pleased with The Francis, Portland’s newest boutique hotel. Fassett designed the Congress Street home for the Mellen E. Bolster family, which operated the Bolster, Snow & Co. store on Middle Street. The 1881 brick building later housed the Hay & Peabody funeral home for 80 years, before sitting vacant for a decade.
Enter brothers Anthony, Jacob, and Nate DeLois. In 2015, the trio were refueling at Tandem Coffee, a popular coffee house across the street, and noticed the empty property. The brothers, who have a family background in hospitality (other properties include two Ogunquit hotels, The Colonial and The Adimiral’s Inn), realized its potential, and purchased it. After a two-year restoration, they opened the massive oak doors to the 15-room hotel in October 2017.
Boutique hotel with original details + contemporary vibe
The Francis honors the man who helped Portland rise from the ashes of the Great Fire of 1881. Fassett designed roughly 400 buildings in the Victorian High Gothic and Queen Anne styles. He’s credited (along with his one-time apprentice, the better known John Calvin Stevens) with helping shape the current look of city’s West End. The hotel, now listed on the National Park Service’s Registry of Historic Places, successfully blends period architectural details with contemporary accents and amenities.
Anthony DeLois toured me through the property, pointing out original features such as gleaming hardwood floors—some parquet, tiled fireplace surrounds, and stained-glass windows preserve the building’s integrity. In some rooms, the reflection of light through original leaded glass windows dances playfully on the walls at night. He pointed out a window to the original, 1925 Seth Thomas clock, one of 80 street clocks made by America’s oldest clock company. The ornate, four-faced, pole-mounted clock is one of only a handful built with both mechanical and electrical works.
Contemporary elements balance historical ones. These include sleek furnishings, tiled baths, and quality linens. An elevator eases access to all floors, although the grand front stairway and the backstairs remain. Overall, the rooms are handsome and minimalist, providing all the necessities without clutter. The well conceived and meticulous renovation pays homage to the building’s architectural bones.
No two guestrooms at The Francis are alike. It offers eight room configurations, including an accessible king.
I loved my junior suite, with its vaulted ceiling, bay window, and spaciousness—enough room for two, perhaps three, adults to comfortably practice yoga. It offered a comfy seating area, luggage bench, bedside lamps, and individual room temperature control.
Other standard amenities include Frette robes, an in-room safe, 40-inch TVs, Cuddledown duvets and pillows, art by Nicole Wolf, Malin + Goetz toiletries, and a minibar emphasizing Maine-made products, a nice touch.
Other pluses for The Francis include:
a 24-hour staffed front desk offering concierge services,
local artwork in the public rooms,
a handsome front parlor,
reading nooks,
an onsite spa using Farmasthetics products,
off-street parking, and
a Congress Street location within easy walking distance of museums, galleries, and restaurants.
The hotel doesn’t serve breakfast, but with 24-hour advance notice, enjoy breakfast-in-bed: coffee, OJ, and pastry from Tandem and a newspaper delivered to your room for about $25.
Schuss Olympian-worthy slopes by day and immerse in Olympic history at night at one of these hotels owned by or affiliated with an alpine Olympian.
Olympic gold medalist the late Egon Zimmermann lovesdsharing schnapps with his guests at the Hotel Kristberg in Lech, Austria. @Hilary Nangle
Arlberg, Austria
Austria’s sprawling Arlberg, an Olympian incubator, is also famed as the cradle of modern skiing and for its role in the iconic ski movie Downhill Racer with Robert Redford.
Kristiania Lech, Lech: Othmar Schneider (Aug. 27, 1928-Dec. 25, 2012) won slalom gold and downhill silver in the 1952 games. His wife and daughter now manage the five-star boutique hotel, which contains his Olympic memorabilia, as well as a museum-quality collection of contemporary art.
Hotel Karl Schranz, St. Anton am Arlberg: Three-time World Champion Karl Shranz (b. Nov. 18, 1938) competed at four Olympics, winning silver in the giant slalom, in 1962. He manages the four-star hotel with his wife and three daughters.
Hotel Kristberg, Lech: Egon Zimmermann (Feb. 8, 1939-Aug. 23, 2019), winner of the gold medal in the 1964 Olympic downhill, resigned from competition and began running this four-star property in 1966. It’s now operated by his nephew.
Hotel Montana, Oberlech: After earning gold in the 1992 Olympic downhill, second-generation hotelier Patrick Ortlieb (b. May 17, 1967) went on to win the legendary Hahnenkamm downhill, marry, and take over operations of the four-star superior hotel from his parents.
Hotel Altis, in Les Trois Vallèes, owned by French ski jumper Emmanuel Chedal, is only a five-minute walk from the Olympic gondola to Meribel Center. From there, the skiing seems endless. @Hilary Nangle
Les Trois Vallées, France
Les Trois Valles, site of the 1992 Olympic men’s slalom and women’s slalom, giant slalom super G, and downhill, continues to host World Cup alpine events.
Hotel Altis, Brides les Bains: Emmanuel Chedal (b. Jan. 15, 1983) a member of the French national ski-jumping team, competed in the 2002 and 2010 Olympic Games. The third-generation family-owned hotel, which he rebuilt with his brothers in 2013, is a five-minute walk from Meribel’s Olympic gondola.
Snugged against the Italian border, these traditional, car-free villages are only 35 miles apart. Saas-Fe has hosted World Cup snowboard, ski-cross, downhill, giant slalom, slalom, and halfpipe events. Numerous national ski teams train on sprawling Zermatt’s glacier each summer.
Wellness Hotel Pirmin Zurbriggen, Saas-Almagell, and Suitenhotel Zurbriggen Zermatt: Often referred to as Switzerland’s greatest racer, Pirmin Zurbriggen (b. Feb. 4, 1963) won gold in downhill and bronze in giant slalom, in the 1988 Olympics. Zurbriggen usually visits with guests at the four-star Saas-Fee hotel, built by his grandfather, once each week and skis with them during special ski weeks. He skis with Zermatt guests one day each week. Both properties are within steps of lifts.
Host of the 1921 and 1980 Olympics, Lake Placid is a frequent stop for World Cup alpine and freestyle racers.
Mirror Lake Inn: Two-time Olympian Andrew Weilbrecht (b. Feb. 10, 1986) competed in the Super-G, racing to bronze in 2010 and silver in 2014. His medals are displayed at the four-diamond inn owned by his family since the 1930s, and if he’s in town, he’s happy to meet guests.
Olympic Gold medalist Stein Ericksen was affiliated with this Deer Valley hotel. Courtesy Stein Ericksen Lodge Deer Valley.
Deer Valley, Utah
Deer Valley hosted the slalom and freestyle events in the 2002 Olympics. Visitors here also can easily access Park City Ski Area and The Canyons, which held other Olympic events.
Stein Eriksen Lodge: Norwegian ski phenom Stein Eriksen (Dec. 11 1927-Dec. 27, 2015) won gold in the giant slalom and silver in the slalom at the 1952 games. He later lent his name to this slopeside, five-star lodge.
Tordrillo Mountain Range, Alaska
Olympic double medalist Tommy Moe is a partner in Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, a remote, luxury, heli-skiing property in Alaska’s Tordrillo mountain range. Moe won gold in the Olympic downhill and silver in the G.S. in the 1994 games in Lillehammer, Norway. When on-site, he shares his passion for powder skiing with guests.
Sun Peaks, B.C., Canada
Nancy Greene’s Cahilty Lodge: Despite an injured ankle, Nancy Greene won silver in slalom and, with a 2.68 margin, won giant slalom gold in the 1968 Grenoble Games. Greene and her husband, Al Raine, opened the lodge in 1995. She joins guests at Sunday evening receptions and skis with them when possible.
Canmore, Alb., Canada
Constructed for the 1988 Olympic biathlon, cross-country, and Nordic combined events, this venue also hosts World Cup races.
Paintbox Lodge: Kick back and relax at this intown, five-room inn run by Sara Renner (b. Apr. 10, 1976), who won silver in the 2006 cross-country team sprint, in partnership with World Cup Champion Thomas Grandi.
Just below my private elevated deck, I spot the welcoming committee – three hyraxes rustling in scrubby brush. Beyond that, the land drops 1,000 feet to the Mara Triangle, the northernmost point of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. Using the powerful Nikon binoculars supplied in my suite, I scan the sky-bordered, amber-hued savanna. Amid solitary Balanite trees, forests splotched with murky mudholes, and emerald green wetlands splashed with shimmery blue, I spy buffaloes, elephants, giraffes, and zebras. Welcome to Angama Mara, the luxury safari camp overlooking the Great Rift Valley in Kenya’s Maasai Mara.
Veteran safari camp operators Nicky Fitzgerald and her late husband, Steve, waited 15 years to gain the lease on this property, a location enshrined in the movie poster for Out of Africa. Picture Streep and Redford picnicking atop the world: That’s exactly where Angama Mara is sited. Angama, a Swahili word for suspended in mid air, is an apt name. The resort hugs the rim of the Oloololo Escarpment and floats above wildlife-rich Mara Triangle. Framed by the escarpment on the west, the Mara River on the east, and the Tanzanian border in the south, the triangle tips the Maasai Mara National Reserve, 500 square kilometers of marshes, open plains, and forested lands owned by the Maasai people and managed by the Mara Conservancy.
“Very few places in safari Africa have this kind of grand a-hah!” Nicki says. “We feel that all the things we’ve done in our life, which are many, have come to this place. This is our elegant swansong.”
The Fitzgerald’s, whose African hospitality career began in 1980, are best known for their 15-year career with CC Africa (now &Beyond), during which they not only grew the company from three to more than 55 properties but also elevated the luxury safari experience. Here, they’ve created two conjoined camps, each with 15 suites and its own lounging and dining lodge. They share a central pavilion housing a pool, fitness center, gift shop, and bespoke beading workshop.
Guests enter each 1,076-square-foot suite is entered through a butler’s vestibule, where tea or coffee and biscuits are discreetly delivered as a morning wake-up call. Inside, the décor takes a back seat to that wall of glass and those forever views. I take in the canvas walls and ceiling, wood parquet floors, and John Vogel furnishings. Maasai-inspired colors, textures, and patterns—red chenille bed covering, luscious plaid woolen blankets, hand-beaded door handles—add zing. The whole is handsome and inviting, sleek and contemporary yet rooted in local culture, and brilliantly designed to maximize the 180-degree views. I can’t think of anything I might possibly need. From intriguing books to the Sony Xperia preloaded with info, nibble to sips; it’s all here.
“There’s something about this property that makes people want to sit and be. They watch the clouds, elephants, rainbows, snooze, open one eye, watch more,” Nicki says. “I love that. People need more of that.”
Each year, from July into October, more than 2 million wildebeest and zebras migrate northward from Tanzania’s Serengeti in search of fresh grasslands. @Hilary Nangle
I agree, but tempting as it is to cocoon in my suite, the reason for my late-July visit is to experience The Great Migration. Each year, from July into October, more than 2 million wildebeest and zebras migrate northward from Tanzania’s Serengeti in search of fresh grasslands. The major obstacle impeding their progress is the Mara River. Crossing it requires descending steep banks, navigating rocky-bottomed waters, and avoiding 12- to 18-foot crocodiles anticipating easy feasts. “A guest had an amazing sighting yesterday,” Nicki teases. “The wildebeest were using the crocs as stepping stones in the river.”
I’m eager to see the same, and over the next five days, I head out on half- and full-day safaris with guide Sammy Mumbi and even take to the skies in a hot air balloon. One of the Mara’s plusses is that the abundance of wildlife negates the necessity of crack-of-dawn game drives. Mornings are leisurely, with time for massages, walks with Maasai naturalists, working out and swimming laps, visiting a local Maasai village, and simply relaxing.
The Fitzgeralds have applied their accumulated knowledge to the resort’s operation, making it far less rigid than most safari lodges. Meal times are flexible, menus are a la carte, and dining venues vary. During my stay I enjoy breakfast and lunch on the deck of the main lodge as well as on safari picnics and, most memorably, on the Out of Africa kopje. My dinner venues are even more varied: the cozy brick-walled library, the dining room, my deck, poolside, and a magical barbeque buffet in the bush. On one evening, local Maasai dance and sing for all guests in a sunset party overlooking the Out of Arica kopje.
During previous African safaris, I’ve seen the Big Five—lion, leopard, black rhino, elephant, and buffalo, but not in such abundance. With Sammy, I sight lions and leopards in trees and with kills, elephants parading across grasslands, buffalo enjoying mud baths, and twice spy the rare black rhino—only 11 reside in the triangle. We see elusive cheetahs, jackals, and hyenas. Crocs and hippos eyeball us from the river, baboons frolic on hillsides, and zebra, giraffes, baboons, and ostriches graze amidst various antelope species as birds of prey soar overhead.
On the morning of the balloon flight, we depart the lodge, descending to the grasslands in the star-spangled predawn quietude. “This is the best launch site in the whole of Africa, and these are the best flying conditions in the world,” says pilot David Chipping, whose 28-year ballooning career has taken him around the globe. We launch in the predawn grayness, and with only the whoosh of flame as background music, rise above the Mara River. Watching a baby hippo disappears in a thrash of crocodile-stirred water below, I rethink my desire to see wildebeest suffer the same fate.
When the migration is in full swing, Nicki says the plains below Angama Mara will appear black with wildebeest, but they’ve yet to arrive en masse. Sammy takes me to crossing point near the Tanzanian border. Herds numbering in the hundreds if not thousands are approaching or milling on the other side, but lacking a leader, they worry to and fro, approaching and receding, but not crossing. “All it takes is one to start, and they’ll all follow,” Sammy promises. “Look at them; they’re made with God’s leftover parts. They have the slanted body of a hyena, the horns of a buffalo, the tail of a horse, the thin legs of a gazelle, and the face of a hartebeest.”
Silently, I will them to cross. We’re abandoning hope when a cloud of dust signals movement. They stampede across the river in a frenzied panic, scrambling up the steep bank, and regrouping on this side. Witnessing it is everything I imagined, if not more.
Back in my suite, wine in hand, I settle into a rocker on my deck and absorb the panorama. As the heat of day relents to the evening’s coolness and golden light cedes to smoky rose-hued blues, I listen to a wildlife symphony broken only by snippets of conversation riding on the breeze and a distant rumble of thunder. A lion roars; an elephant trumpets in reply. I float in a state of Agama Zen, simply sitting and being and wanting never to depart.
Note: Such all-inclusive (safaris, meals, drinks, accommodation, laundry) indulgence comes at a high price. As of 2018, rates begin at $1,200 pp/night.
I traveled to Angama Mara in July, 2015, on assignment for Private Clubs magazine. An edited version of this article appeared in the Winter 2016 issue.
On each of the last 10 days of 2017, I shared one of my 10 most memorable Maine experiences from the year. These are not in any particular order, consider them equally enjoyed.
Not every flight circles out over Casco Bay before landing in Portland (PWM), but if you’re fortunate enough to be on one that does, you’ll want to be in a window seat. I love trying to spy various landmarks, from beaches to lighthouses, harbors to islands. When viewed from above, it’s easy to understand why an early explorer, thinking there were so many islands in the bay that there had to be one for every day of the year, dubbed them the Calendar Islands.
Hail to friends (thank you, Joan!) who stay up until the wee hours to score a reservation at The Lost Kitchen. We found chef/owner Erin French’s little slice of heaven in a masterfully renovated stream-side mill in Freedom, Maine. Now, I’ve been fortunate in my career; I’ve dined at quite a few Michelin-starred and/or James Beard Award-winning restaurants in North America and Europe. My dinner at The Lost Kitchen stands out as one of the best and most memorable of all. The setting is idyllic, and French not only prepares, but also serves every course. Everything was perfect, from the wine store operated by French’s mother in the mill’s basement museum, to the thoughtful presentation of each course. (FYI: You can purchase an autographed copy of her cookbook here).
What do Corea and Waterville, Maine, and New York City have in common? If you’ve read my earlier posts this year, the answer is easy: artist Marsden Hartley. I had the good fortune to see the exhibit Marseden Hartley’s Maine twice: first at the Met Breur in New York, and then at the Colby College Museum of Art in Waterville.
On a trip to one of my favorite lobster shacks, Corea’s Wharf Gallery & Grill, sixth-generation lobsterman Joe Young, a descendant of Corea’s original settlers, brought Hartley to life. He recounted family stories of Hartley’s time in Corea, a classic fishing village on the Schoodic Peninsula. I
f you didn’t see the exhibit, you might consider purchasing the book. In any case, next time you’re visiting the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park or heading to parts down east, pop into the seasonal Wharf Gallery & Grill and ask Joe to share a few of his stories.
It’s hard to believe that the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens has only existed for 10 years. This eye candy bonanza is equally magical in summer as in winter.
It’s easy to spend the better part of a day exploring the 195-acre gardens. Most of the formal gardens are on the upper level. My favorites are the Garden of the Five Senses and the Children’s Garden, where Maine classics such as Blueberries for Sal come alive. I’m guessing many visitors never even find the Rhododendron Garden, given its off-the-beaten-path location. A path zigzags down a wooded hillside to the tidal waterfront on the Back River, where there are hiking trails, sea kayaking options, even a fairy village.
In winter, more than 500,000 LED lights illuminate the upper gardens for Gardens Aglow (4-9pm daily from late November through Dec. 31, except Christmas).
On a sunny day, the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden is a knockout. But even in the rain, when drops glisten and colors pop, it’s spectacular. Renowned landscape designer Beatrix Farrand created this walled garden for the Rockefellers between 1926 and 1935, using treasures the Rockefellers had acquired in Asia. Within the garden’s walls are English floral beds, Korean tombstone figures, woodland and water gardens, and a great green. Although gorgeous anytime, the garden comes into peak bloom during the first two weeks of August.
Traditionally, the garden is open one day weekly, by advance reservation, for two visitation sessions in season. Most visitors arrive right at the session’s start, but you can avoid the crowds by showing up a little later and still have plenty of time. A garden guide with map is provided, but you’re free to explore at your own pace.
Note: The Garden Preserve, which oversees both Thuya and Asticou Gardens, is assuming ownership of this garden as a bequest from Rockefeller, so the schedule may change.
Even if you’ve never visited Monhegan Island, if you have any familiarity with American art, you’ll likely recognize many of its icons: the red house perched just so on the shoreline; the lighthouse and bell atop the hill; the craggy cliffs dropping to churning surf; the three-story hotel with its wrap-around porch; or stark Manana island, which protects it harbor.
Lobster fishing supports the small, year-round community, but artists have come for generations to paint these scenes. They’re joined by folks who come to tour the lighthouse museums and artists’ studios; birders who flock here spring and fall to add new species to their life lists; hikers who come to explore the trails lacing the island; and those, like me, who simply want to escape civilization for a few days.
Most visitors only stay for the day, but the lucky ones spend at least a night, ideally a few, soaking up the quietude and the island’s unique culture. Monhegan isn’t for everyone, services are few. But if you’re yearning for a getaway with a difference, you’ll find it here.
On this bitterly frigid day (dreaming of reaching single digits), my thoughts turn to ice cream, and Maine has some of the nation’s best. I’ve often dished about my favorites, and I’ve even compiled a list of all the local Maine ice cream shops dishing out freshly made ice cream.
Last summer, I researched a new edition of my Moon Acadia National Park book, and that, of course, required first-hand knowledge. That’s when I discovered Pugnuts in Surry (also available at Black Dinah in Blue Hill and at McGrath’s in Northeast Harbor). That got me thinking that the Acadia region may have some of Maine’s best. In addition to Pugnuts, there’s also Morton’s Moo in Ellsworth, and Ben & Bill’s, Mount Desert Ice Cream in Bar Harbor, and Jordan Pond Ice Cream in Bar Harbor.
Island hopping in Maine is one of my favorite pastimes, and the new edition of Acadia demanded a trip to Frenchboro. At first, I planned to go for the annual lobster festival in August, but that didn’t work out. Instead, I joined Capt. Eli Strauss, of Island Cruises, aboard the R.L. Gott for the 3.5-hour lunch cruise out of Bass Harbor. As he weaves a course through islands, Strauss shares lots of local heritage and lore about once-thriving and now abandoned granite-quarrying and fishing communities and the sardine industry. He earns major points for maneuvering the boat so that passengers on both sides get an up-close view of key sights. En route, he points out seals, cormorants, guillemots, and often eagles.
For me the highlight is docking at Lunt’s Lobster in Frenchboro. The island, Outer Long, is called by the name of the village wrapping around Lunt’s Cove. It’s one of 15 Maine islands that still have a year-round community. After feasting on an ultra fresh lobster roll (the menu ranges from hot dogs to lobster dinners), we had enough time to stroll through the village and visit the historical museum, before boarding for the return trip. On that, Strauss explains lobster fishing and hauls a trap or two.
I hope to return some summer Friday to Frenchboro for a full day on the island. That will allow time to hike some of the more than 10 miles of marked trails—more than 80 percent of the island including about 8 miles of shoreline is in a preserve managed by Maine Coast Heritage Trust.
It’s been a long time since I could recommend the Higgins Beach Inn, but after a complete renovation, it’s once again the belle of the beach. @Hilary Nangle
Higgins Beach Inn
I spent way too many hours of my teenage years doused with baby oil and watching the boys go by at Higgins Beach. I’d buy a season parking ticket for $5 and park behind the store, which had the only public toilet (most outhouses these days are nicer). En route from the store to the beach, I’d pass the Higgins Beach Inn, but rarely gave it a second thought. When invited to see the renovated inn in the spring, I went.
The Migis Group, which owns Migis Lodge and owns or manages a number of other properties in Maine and beyond, did a wonderful job taking this Victorian beach hotel and updating it with a modern, uncluttered look accented with strong colors and contemporary art. It shines again as a seasonal place to stay or enjoy a meal in the restaurant or simply hang out in the bar or covered deck.
I walked around the neighborhood—it’s now more year-round Portland suburb than seasonal beach community—but the beach itself hasn’t changed too much. It’s still a broad stretch at low tide, giving way to a narrow strip when the tide’s high. In the off-season, dogs run free. When storms toss the sea, surfers ride the combers. I’m happy to be able to recommend visiting here and staying in the Higgins Beach Inn.
Until this year, despite growing up on the coast of Maine, I had never been out on a boat to watch Fourth of July fireworks. Susi Homer,a former innkeeper in Southwest Harbor, invited me to join her aboard a boat chartered for the evening. We sipped and savored hors d’oeuvres and bubbly aboard as we cruised to Islesford, one of Acadia’s Cranberry Isles, for an early dinner at the Islesford Dock (I’m eager to return here; everything I tasted was excellent). While dining, thunderstorms made for dramatic lighting, but ceded in time to cruise to Southwest Harbor for the big lights show. En route, we devoured dessert—blueberry cake with whipped cream.
If you ever get an opportunity to view fireworks from a boat, don’t hesitate to do so. It really feels as if you are in the center of it all, watching bombs bursting in air, with smoke clearing to reveal the boat’s flag still there.
As much as I love Maine, come December, I’m craving sunshine and warmth. When the opportunity to cruise aboard Holland America Line‘s 2,106-passenger Nieuw Amsterdamarose, I didn’t hesitate. Sign me up!
Honestly, I didn’t think I’d enjoy cruising on a big ship. This five-day Bahamas cruise departing from Fort Lauderdale, Fla., changed my mind. Truth be told, the Nieuw Amsterdam is a mid-sized ship, but it was my first experience aboard such a large ship with so many amenities.
It helped that cruise veteran and sister travel writer Shannon Hurst DalPozzal, shared my room. She knew the ins and outs of cruising and finding the quiet and still.
As for sunshine and warmth, the cruise delivered brilliant sunny days, spectacular sunsets, and daily temps in the 80s. Even better: Sea breezes cooled the evenings.
I dreaded boarding, as I’d heard it can be a loooonnngg process. We arrived around 11:45am and breezed not only through the registration and security but also right into our cabin. Holland America makes sure its cabins are available at check in, a nice plus. Our luggage appeared within an hour.
Our Verandah stateroom had twin beds, a nice closet area with a safe and robes, a bathroom with tub/shower, a desk, TV, a small sofa, and a large balcony with two chairs, a small table, and a footrest that doubled as a table. That balcony became our second home.
My smart-cookie roomie asked our cabin steward for ice for a bottle of Champagne she’d brought aboard (Passengers may bring aboard one bottle for consumption in their stateroom), and tipped him handsomely. Now gratuities are included, but as in any business, a welcoming smile and a little extra goes a long way. Our stewards never forgot our names and greeted us warmly whenever we crossed paths.
After the emergency drill, the cruise departed the dock, and the fun began.
Hungry for lunch, we bee-lined to the Lido Market, a mega buffet with plentiful stations and options. One look and I knew why people often gain weight on cruises. We picked up a sampling of salads and sushi and found a table shaded by an umbrella by one of the ship’s two pools.
The nearby New York pizza station caught our eye, and we ordered one to split. It was so good that later in the week we ordered another, which we enjoyed on our balcony.
Other food options available include a burger bar, a coffee and ice cream shop, and four restaurants with menus and wait service. The Dining Room is included, and we enjoyed breakfast there once (Dungeness crab benedict!) and dinner twice.
The other three restaurants have a surcharge: Pinnacle Grill (specializing in Pacific Northwest seafood, $35); Tamarind (Pan Asian, $25); and Canaletto (Italian, $15). Trust me, it’s worth the splurge. We dined at Canalleto and Tamarind. Both were very good, but Tamarind was exceptional, both in service and fare. Plus, opposite it on the same deck is a lovely lounge, where it feels as if you’re in a boutique hotel, not aboard a cruise ship.
And here’s a big perk: Room service is included. It seems especially indulgent to sit on the balcony in a robe and enjoy breakfast. Equally enjoyable and a nice respite was afternoon tea—one day with cookies, another with cheese and crackers.
Entertainment for all
Children 3-17 have Club HAL, a supervised program with dedicated spaces divided by age group.
En route to our first lunch, we viewed the art gallery and the Digital Workshop. After lunch, we toured the spa, with lounge areas, hot tub, steam room, and service rooms. Spacious, well-equipped fitness areas bookend the spa on one side. On the other is a pool rimmed with private cabanas, available for a surcharge.
On a walkabout, we passed the sports court and peeked into various entertainment venues: BB King Blues Club (live Memphis blues), the Screening Room (films), America’s Test Kitchen, Showroom at Sea theater, and the piano bar. Something is always happening somewhere, just show up and grab a seat.
Upon awakening the first morning, I went to the balcony and gazed at the 2-mile crescent of sand edging Holland America Line’s private Bahamian island, Half Moon Cay. Heaven! The previous evening, when our cabin steward had prepared our stateroom, he’d left towels for beach use.
I’d signed up for two shore excursions, and took an early tender to the island for my snorkeling experience, with all gear provided. Along with a couple dozen other passengers, I boarded an excursion boat that transported us to the far end of the beach. Here we plunged in for about 45 minutes of sheer bliss in the calm, clear waters above a reef and ruins.
The tram tour, my second excursion, introduced other island activities. If I cruise here again, I’d opt for a horseback ride. Another passenger who went told me that the ride followed the beach and included a short period in which the horses actually swam. That would have been a perfect pairing with my recent stay at White Stallion, an all-inclusive dude ranch in Tucson, Ariz. Another option that looked fun was swimming with stingrays. Sign me up!
Between excursions, we checked out the pirate ship bar, the included buffet, and the a la carte Lobster Shack; met Santa Clause, who was working on his tan and resting up for the big night ahead; browsed the marketplace stalls with straw products and Bahamian foods; and watched others who tried water bikes, paddleboards, sea kayaks, and other beach and water toys. Mostly, we simply relaxed in the abundant beach recliners.
Instead of booking shore excursions on Nassau, Shannon and I explored on our own. Despite four ships in port, December is quiet season here, so it was easy to move around, although some options weren’t open.
We learned the story behind the Queen’s Staircase from a native stationed near the entry and admired the fort and water tower and views from on high.
For lunch, we hoofed down to the Fish Fry. Few of the fish stalls and restaurants were open, but we found one, which claimed to be the original and had waterfront seating on its covered back deck.
In hindsight, I think it was the bar that was open, not the kitchen, but we weren’t turned away. We ordered conch fritters and a fish snack and waited. And waited. And waited. First came the fried fish snack (the way it was presented, it looked like quite the happy fish).
Then we waited again. I swear we watched as one of the cooks pulled a string of conch from the waters off an adjacent dock to make the fritters.
En route back to the ship, we couldn’t help but detour into Marshall’s one-man stand on Junkanoo Beach promising the world’s best pina coladas. We felt it was our duty to test the product to see if it met the claim. Marshall gladly whipped us two. Maybe it was just being in the right place at the right time, but we agreed that Marshall’s made a mean pina colada that ranked among the best we’d ever tasted.
Each day when we returned from our various off-ship adventures, smiling attendants welcomed us back aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam with cool, damp towels and cold lemonade. It was a nice perk, and as Shannon pointed out, one that the other ships in port didn’t offer.
Truth: I was really looking forward to this day with no agenda. I wanted to explore the ship and enjoy the amenities, as well as simply to relax and be in the moment.
By this time, I was in total relaxation mode. Thank goodness the elevator carpets change daily, or I wouldn’t have had a clue as to which day it was.
That afternoon, I discovered the shops aboard the ship. Since the Nieuw Amsterdam was heading into dry dock after this cruise for a facelift, the sales were enticing, and as the day progressed, they kept getting better.
About that facelift: Among the enhancements to be added are the Rijksmuseum at Sea, EXC Explorers Central, and two new music venues—world-class musicians will perform chamber music on Lincoln Center Stage, and the ship will rock at Billboard Onboard, with 50 years of chart-topping hits.
Day 5: Fort Lauderdale cruise port
The Nieuw Amsterdam docked around 6 am back in Fort Lauderdale. The ship plans an orderly disembarkation. Passengers are issued luggage tags and asked to leave their bags in the hall on the last night. They’re also given a time for disembarkation based upon their post-cruise activities or flights.
Hoping to talk our way into earlier flights home at the airport, we decided to handle our own luggage and disembark ahead of the organized groups.
My previous cruises, both of which I enjoyed immensely, were on far smaller ships: a Ponant cruise from Boston to Montreal and a Hurtigruten cruise from Kirkenes to Bergen, Norway. My fears of a bigger ship were allayed on this Holland America Line cruise. I now know that one can find quiet spots and intimate dining experiences even on a bigger ship.
If you’re a first-timer, find a cruise line that addresses your desires: destination, length, budget (inside cabins, and those without balconies cost less), size, and options, then give it a go. I’d definitely choose Holland America Line again, which, by the way, does offer a New England/maritime Canada itinerary that visits Maine. Alas, the water is a wee bit chillier, but the experiences are equally enriching.
