Quebec’s Mont Tremblant, about 90 minutes northwest of Montreal, is a bit Old Quebec, a bit Europe, a bit Disney, and a whole lot of fun. During a three-day visit, I skied, ate, dipped into a Nordic-style spa, ate, mushed a dog-sled team, ate, shopped the village, ate, discovered fat-tire e-bikes, ate, contemplated a night snowshoeing expedition to an on-mountain hut for fondue, and, did I mention ate?
Explore Tremblant village
Tremblant‘s purpose-built pedestrian village is etched into the hillside between the mountain and the lake. If you simply don’t have the energy to walk up the gentle slope after shopping your way down, simple board the free, cabriolet lift, which connects the the lower village with the upper one.
Shops, restaurants, and hotels line the main and side thoroughfare making for easy browsing, buying, noshing, and dining. Everything you might possibly want or need is readily available, including such Quebec must-haves as a sugar shack selling maple products, a BeaverTails-pastry shop, a creperie, and yes, a poutinerie (artery-busting French fries with cheese curd smothered in grav; you know you want it) serving more than 20 varieties.
Ski or ride Mont Tremblant
“Where should we start?” I asked the ski room attendant as I buckled my boots. “Always start on the North side,” he replied, launching into some recommended runs. We followed his advice.
Truth: Northeast ski areas have been in recovery mode for much of the winter. Sure, we’ve gotten plenty of snow—record amounts at some areas—but almost every storm was followed by rain and/or ridiculously warm temps. Grooming teams have earned their keep, and Temblant’s team, comprising long-term veterans who’ve been working the terrain for upwards of two decades, excels. I went expecting okay but classic eastern conditions (as long as it’s not blue, it’s skiable). Instead, I found soft, machine-groomed powder & corduroy. Nice!
The tip about the North Side was spot on, but during our stay, we skied the entire mountain. Loved playing in the gentle glades found in The Edge; dropping down Laurentienne, on the Sunny Side, stopping for a peek into The Refuge, a rustic on-mountain restaurant; and chilling on La Crete, a green lullaby that wraps its way gently down the mountain’s fringe, delivering eye-candy views en route. Lifts are fast, and runs are long with a nice sustained pitch.
Stats in short: 2,871-foot summit; 665 acres including 91 gladed acres; 96 marked trails; 2,116-foot South Side vertical drop; 14 lifts (1 base-to-summit gondola, 5 high-speed quads, 1 quad, 2 triples 3 Magic Carpets, the village cabriolet, and a gondola connecting the village with casino at the Sunny Side base).
Dip into a Nordic spa
I love Nordic spas. They’re popular in Quebec, and I’ve visited quite a few in ski towns. Nordic spas focus on the health benefits of a hot-cold-relax cycle. You spend 15 minutes in a hot pool, steam room, sauna, or other heated venue, which opens your pores. Follow that with a plunge into cold water, perhaps a cold pool, an icy waterfall, or a dip into a lake or river (where the ice has been cleared). Next comes the best part: rest. Most Nordic spas provide varied relaxation areas—indoors and outside—most with comfy chairs or recliners and often with cozy blankets available. Ideally, one repeats this cycle at least three times. When thoroughly cooked, you’ll be the consistency of al dente pasta.
The snow on the mountain changed to rain as we drove 10-minutes to the Scandinave Spa Mont-Tremblant. Frankly, the weather was miserable—cold precip that varied between snow, rain, sleet, and slush. I was sure we’d only stay a bit, but as with the conditions on the mountain, I was proved wrong. The Scandinave oozes hegge, the Danish concept of coziness and contentment, both indoors and out. It offers many options for each stage of the cycle, making it possible to find quiet spots for each. No, I didn’t plunge into the river—a bit too brrrrr!—but I did dunk myself into 50-degree waters.
The spa also has a nice cafe serving lighter fare: We indulged in soup, salad, and quiche, as well as bone-warming hot chocolate. By the time we left, I was in that dreamy feel-good-all-over stage, like just after an excellent massage (which, by the way you can arrange for at the spa).
Mush a team of huskies
Dog-sledding, as well as other adventures including that snowshoe trek to The Refuge for fondue and electric fat-tire snow biking, can be booked at Tremblant’s Activity Center in the village. Three different dog-sledding options are offered; we chose one on the golf course, just five minutes from the mountain. The terrain was ideal for learning how to drive a team. The trip lasted about an hour, with a stop at a tent for hot chocolate and cookies. Highly recommend this activity, especially if traveling with kids. I loved it.
Upon return, we were allowed in the dog yard and introduced to the gang, including a few pups. I briefly held a 15-day-old one in my arms, and considered how to escape with the adorable bundle of fluff, but his mom didn’t take her eyes off me until her pup was safely back at her side.
While I didn’t try the snow biking or the evening snowshoeing fondue excursion on this visit to Tremblant, I will when I return.
Eat your way through the village
As I mentioned above, eating is easy, given the abundance of choices within walking distance. We enjoyed lunch one day at The Grand Manitou, the mountaintop chalet, which pairs self-service fare with truly grand views. Another day we stopped in the village at Microbrasserie La Diable at Mont-Tremblant, the first microbrewery in the Laurentians. It’s been here since 1995 and has a strong local following, and as soon as we sat down, we knew why: great service, great food, and great beer.
Each night, we sampled a different restaurant. Pizzateria surprised me its broad menu. We each ordered a salad and split a prosciutto, leek fondue, pears, garlic, parmesan, arugula, and mozzarella pie—as delicious as it sounds. Our final night we dined in Choux Gras in the Fairmont Tremblant, where we were staying. I love cassoulet, and I enjoyed every bite of the restaurant’s duck confit cassoulet.
Call it a night
The most convenient lodging options are in the village area. Stay here, and you can boot up in your room, pick up your gear in the storage room, and hit the slopes. And that’s not all: village lodging privileges include access to first tracks—gondola opens at 7:45am, North Side trails at 8am (through March 18); free tubing in the sliding park; and free skate rentals for the ice rink.
We were fortunate to stay at the Fairmont Tremblant at the top of the village. It’s worth the splurge not only to stay here, but also on the Gold Floor. Perks of the latter include concierge services, daily breakfast buffet with hot entrees, all-day snacks and honor bar, an impressive afternoon hors d’oeuvres spread with hot and cold selections, and a comfy lounge. The hotel also has a full-service spa, outdoor pool and hot tubs, fitness room, and a lounge and buffet-style restaurant in addition to Choux Gras. Twice each week, guests can join the Fairmont Ski Club for First Tracks.
If that’s out of your budget, don’t despair. There are plenty of other condos and hotels in the village (including a Marriott Residence, Homewood Suites, Holiday Inn Express, and Westin) and small inns and B&Bs nearby.
